Rockfax Description
Superbly-sustained climbing that tracks an intricate line up the centre of the wall. Start at the base of the wall, below a thin crack with a rope sling at the midway horizontal break. Climb the first few easy-angled metres to the start of the thin crack. Make hard but well protected moves up the crack to the horizontal break - an insitu rope sling. Move left, then up, past good holds and a peg before gaining a thin crack-line on the left. Follow the crack-line past four more pegs to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 5.6.83 05/Jun/1983

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Stephen Horne - Rockfax 23/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Ed Bulman
Matt Cooke 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez 16/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Sun out and the rock roasting. Thought I was on Ocean B !! Desperate, felt like E5 in the conditions. Taxed me to my limit. Totally boxed. Despondency changed to elation when I discovered what route I had actually done.

Mark Warnett ?/Jul/17 Lead RP

Finally got it! Bad choice for a warm up, thought all over at end of traverse but somehow managed to keep it together where before i crumbled, still not quite sure how. Knew all the moves, still felt nails .

with Andy O'Conner
LJC 23/Apr/17 Lead dnf
with Herve
Hidden 19/Mar/17 2nd dog
Flavio 19/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Mark Warnett ?/Jun/16 Lead dog

Break was sandy but Climbed past last high point. Really thought it was done and dusted but so pumped and rushed top, falling onto second peg.

Mark Warnett ?/May/16 Lead dog

Good conditions. Climbed through crux easily and thought was in the bag but shut down just before pegs when it gets a bit thinner, if pumped stupid (as I was)! Fell onto blue totem.

ricci.andrea86 ?/Apr/16 Lead rpt
thomas108 ??/2016 -
Ram MkiV 01/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with noaks
James Oakes 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S
BenL 08/Aug/15 2nd β
with Andrea
valecoastclimber 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S
James Marshall 25/May/15 2nd

Probably a bit harder than Barracuda. Fell off the top with another lump of rock in my hand !!

with ollie
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
WB 30/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Andy M
James Oswald 24/Aug/14 Lead dog

I found this really hard. After downclimbing to the ground from below the crux a few times I went for it, falling on a cam in the crack above the ledge. From the ground I was too pumped after the crux and ended up resting on gear several times on the top wall. Never ending and very sustained climbing!

with John Bramwell
AlexD 12/Jul/14 2nd
with Ed
Ed Babs 12/Jul/14 Lead RP

Fell off the crux twice previously so stoked to make it today. On/off moment slapping for the break, but enough jugs above to recover. Lovely climbing. Repeated 2nd with eddy 5 Nov 16 - found a much easier sequence through the crux.

with AlexD
piken ?/Jul/14 -
markalmack 26/May/14 2nd O/S


with james marjot
JM 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
Mike_Hayes 04/May/14 Lead

G.U. robbed from O.S after snapping a hold off the top wall and taking a large to climb it twice though!

ben.meakin 04/May/14 2nd
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Fran S8 03/May/14 Lead O/S
dan gibson 11/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S


brices 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Awesome, had some elbows up slapping in the middle 1/3rd thought i was off then held it together for the top

with Remus
Hidden 07/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 15/Aug/13 2nd RP

Fell on the lead (went wrong way) but seconded it clean

Ed Booth 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Gear in place up to thread from ad's attempt. Horrendously greasy conditions made this feel hard!!

bigie bob 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 TR O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
Ellis Bird ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/12 Lead
pezzerrr 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 31/Mar/12 2nd β

Really pumpy. Glad Ross got the lead on this one - not sure I would have had the stamina to pull through placing gear. As good as its reputation, and not over til the end.

with Ross
quiffhanger 31/Mar/12 Lead RP

Let down on 1st go by tactical errors and low faith in probably-ok gear. Pulled the ropes to get clean second go. Hard E4.

with Jake
Mike Goldthorp 11/Aug/10 Lead dnf

She truly had her way with me! Got up to the sandy half-way break and a hold broke off (fall 1). Came to the deck, then 2nd go got matched on the big brown jug just right of the tat when that beast broke off aswell (fall 2). Wasnt sure of the line, so tried goin out left on some quartz crimps, ended up on some sandy slopers, which resulted in fall 3 and the end of my endevours. Oh dear.

brian watson 15/May/10 TR dog
Dave Turnbull, BMC 12/Sep/09 2nd

Led to 2/3rds height on v hot day - burned out then Rab took over.

with Rab Carrington
ukb & bmc shark 28/Aug/09 Lead

Had followed Derek on this 18+ years ago and some gear of Ed's was in place from his go. May have gone too high before stepping left.

Toby Dunn 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
feilx 21/Mar/09 Lead RP

nice to finally get back on this, awesome route

with Angus
Hidden ??/2009 -
La Mont 10/Aug/07 Lead β
feeko 03/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
dan gibson ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with eddie church
Hidden 09/May/99 Lead O/S
Roget 30/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
sadams 22/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Andy Long
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
duncan ?/Nov/94 2nd
with Dan Donovan
Hidden 15/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 10/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
keefe 02/May/92 -
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
frank ramsay ??/1988 Lead
DDDD ??/1988 Lead O/S

At my limit and scary

with Gary Crocker
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