Rockfax Description
An outstanding Swanage classic up the steep cracks and over a mid-height bulge on the left-hand side of the wall. Very pumpy but well protected. Start at a slab just right of the base of the crack-line. Follow the slab easily left to the base of the crack and climb it to the mid-height break. Pull through the steep bulge above to a shake-out at a good hold on the left. Continue up the thinner (but less steep) crack above the good hold to a point where a step left gains easier climbing and the top. © Rockfax
FA. Kevin Turner, Nick Buckley, S.Bartlett 3.1979. FFA. Steve Monks, Gordon Jenkin 21.11.81.
Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Littlejohn South West Climbs , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Swanage wild pumpfests , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate E3 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset weekender , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012) , Toms Top E3/E4/E5's of the South West , Definitive *** Swanage
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Spearos | 3 Jul |
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βeta: Best route of the week. So many gear options, if you have the stamina! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Best route of the week. So many gear options, if you have the stamina! |
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Cyrees | 14 Apr |
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βeta: If wanting to ab directly down it - go to the two obvious stakes below the fence (Mother Africa abseil), then look around. There is a very hidden very flat very old stake maybe 5 metres to the right and a few metres down. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If wanting to ab directly down it - go to the two obvious stakes below the fence (Mother Africa abseil), then look around. There is a very hidden very flat very old stake maybe 5 metres to the right and a few metres down. |
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Jack Moriarty | 11 May, 2024 |
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βeta: Happy to get this today on my 3rd attempt | βeta? | |
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βeta: Happy to get this today on my 3rd attempt |
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jamieevans | 9 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Finally :) was taken down a peg by this route 12+ years ago. if anyone left any property at the top of this route recently send me a message. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Finally :) was taken down a peg by this route 12+ years ago. if anyone left any property at the top of this route recently send me a message. |
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ian bryant | 17 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: good, but i've done better! also, it's much, much easier than soul sacrifice. | βeta? | |
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βeta: good, but i've done better! also, it's much, much easier than soul sacrifice. |
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Grade: E3 5b ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)