38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A well-travelled and solid route. Upgraded from VS.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb a scoop, just left of the big boulder, then move leftwards around a roof. Traverse 8m back right to a corner and slab. The slab leads to a belay on the left at the fault-line.
2) 4b, 18m. Climb to an overhang, traverse 3m right and pull over. Continue to the top and an earthy finish. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Titt, J.Thornby 24/Oct/1971

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, SW Climbs - Swanage, The V.S.+ Ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

Honey badger 93 14/May/17 Lead O/S

Lead 2nd pith

Hidden 22/Apr/17 AltLd rpt
katiep 06/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. First 'sccop' was sandy a bit run out, 'earthy top out was correct'

Matt Smith 06/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

P1, tricky (and runout start, if I did it properly), cool traverse and another good seat to watch the peregrines fly past.

andycash 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Craig Sands
Hidden 05/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
Geoffers 09/Jul/16 AltLd rpt
with Tim
Hidden ?/Sep/15 Lead
Monkey_Alan 30/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
Trace 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Meaty start, good gear in crack above. A little tenuous immediately after the overhang followed by a sustained flake pull up to the left. Not on my 'to lead' list quite yet..!

Hidden 06/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
jacko120 05/Aug/15 Lead

Lead both pitches

Hinchrn 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
mikehenesy 06/Jun/15 AltLd

Followed Tom Hinch up the first pitch, good second pitch too.

with Tom Hinchcliffe aka Tom M.
Julian Prieto 17/May/15 AltLd rpt

Led P2

Monkey_Alan 17/May/15 AltLd rpt
mattprince 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Will Graham
Shane Willis 25/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitch one. Great moves, and a lovely wondering line, it pays off to have a think about rope work before setting off. Really enjoyed this climb!

Chris Sansum 21/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Ewan P1, Chris P2.

with Ewan Whitmey
roberts1234567890 06/Feb/15 AltLd
with Will Moy
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Leo49 ??/2015 -
joedoherty 05/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
with Anna Gibson
elfka 05/Nov/14 AltLd
with Joe Doherty
Pero 10/Sep/14 AltLd
petegruf 12/Jul/14 AltLd
cem 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1. One can avoid the much harder start by taking an immediate step left into a shallow scoop: a bit balancey and not much gear, though.

Hidden 24/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 19/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
Monkey_Alan 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt

The always-strenuous start is harder now (Probably 5a) due to the loss of a block from the cave.

with Anne-Marie Shepherd
Bob M 01/Jun/14 Lead

Avoided the start (now definitely HVS after a rockfall) by sneaking in from the left.

with Marta Adamus
mc fifi 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
TiffTiff 13/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Joe Sergeant
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
sonic46 13/Apr/14 AltLd
with Lee Mercer
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
lukerathmell ??/2014 AltLd
with Carl Stubbs
joedoherty 16/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Bad rope drag, use half ropes!

dobby 200 16/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

lead P2

Hidden 06/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 AltLd
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead rpt
The Ivanator 22/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Led p2 and got the correct line this time.

with Stevo
Abi Chard 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Kerm ?/Sep/13 AltLd
CurlyStevo ?/Sep/13 AltLd

I lead the money pitch, traversed to the left in low so hand was on the foot hold on the arete. Didn't think this was harder than VS 5a.

sarpedon 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Climbed it as a single pitch. The 8-meter traverse is airy :) Careful with rope drag.

Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Norman_P_W 28/Jul/13 AltLd
with Bob M
Bob M 28/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 04/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Led both pitches. Pretty dark by the time John got up!

with Matt Tyson, John Knight
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd
mikehenesy 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Thought it was a VS!

with Tom Stanford
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd RP
Monkey_Alan 02/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

joshchalke 02/Jun/13 2nd
Nexonen 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Sophie, Floris
Sophie Nunn 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Andy J, Floris
Monkey_Alan 06/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

Max Streeton 06/Apr/13 AltLd
Helen Gibson 05/Mar/13 AltLd

led 2nd pit

with Alice
Hidden 05/Mar/13 AltLd
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 16/Sep/12 2nd O/S
ardzeiem 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Nic
Pete Nugent 14/Sep/12 -

Turned back off P1 - intimidated by the steepness.

Bob M 14/Sep/12 AltLd

In 3 pitches to avoid rope drag. led 1 and 3.

Andy Chubb 26/Aug/12 Lead

Great moves on pitch 1 to get to past the flakes, and then careful ropework required for the traverse. Nice pitch 2 but horrible top out, and then no belay stake!

with Chris Mellor
eroica64 26/Aug/12 2nd

Mix of delicate and strenuous climbing

with Andy Chubb
Headjamm 28/Jul/12 2nd
with Geoff
Geoffers 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Lauren, Tim
Andre Clarke 01/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Didn't lead first crux pitch thank god

with Alan
Monkey_Alan 01/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

LukeyG 10/Jun/12 Lead

loose top

Monkey_Alan 13/May/12 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

Stewart Armstrong 13/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Monkey Alan
w-watson 02/May/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
chris_B 11/Feb/12 Lead

Surprisingly good 1st pitch, not sure about the second as it was dark by then and we couldn't really see much. Could do with a new and more substantial stake at the top.

louby 11/Feb/12 2nd
Ian JL ??/2012 -
lukerathmell 19/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Second pitch done in the dark...oops

with Carl Stubbs
carl_123 19/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with luke rathmell
Different Steve 25/Sep/11 AltLd rpt
with Jason
jasonpm 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Steve IMC
MDR61 15/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Tough for VS

with Jez B
jezb1 15/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd
Simon Cahill 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, bit of a scrapy climb, great care needs to be taken with rope work to avoid drag.

with Steve (Dorchester)
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd
recon ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with benny b
Dieter Z ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with benny
djking1983 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Bob M 25/May/11 AltLd
matt.jj 21/May/11 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

Dave Mahon ?/May/11 AltLd O/S

done when it was a VS. Thought it was fair for the grade. Good climb.

dickie01 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Joe Heasman
Hidden 19/Mar/11 AltLd
Monkey_Alan 19/Mar/11 AltLd rpt

Led P2

dan gibson 13/Mar/11 AltLd
with michael porter
Hidden 13/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
uncontrollable 24/Oct/10 AltLd rpt

lead second pitch

with Viskii
Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
jezb1 16/Oct/10 AltLd

P1, steep start, easy middle, delicate finish. P2 straight forward. Stiff for VS. Got hit by a big lump of rock on mid height belay :(

The Ivanator 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Tough (but good) first pitch and loose second one (now realise the direct line I took from belay to top isn't correct) ...I somehow bombed my belayer with a sizeable chunk of rock (fell as I unweighted it - didn't move whilst I was stood on it) ...sorry Jez!

with Jez
Andy Chubb 10/Oct/10 Lead

Tricky first couple of moves, but all there. very careful ropework required to prevent rope drag - you have to have double ropes for this route. Horrible top out on second pitch. Would have been good to have left a rope in place to protect the final few moves up the soil and loose stones.

with Jim Mulvaney
Bob M 06/Oct/10 AltLd
gibsond 19/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch. Poor ropework :-( and went too high for the traverse right to the slab section. Made it a lot harder than it should have been.

PilarMartinez 19/Sep/10 AltLd
with gibsond
ben.richards 19/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Really nice route, though I think I started slightly to far left of the boulder, over a poorly protected section, fortunately easy climbing though. Final slab of P1 was awkward. Luca lead P2, his first 4b lead and also first multi-pitch lead - good job :)

LJC 19/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Started to go off route on the first pitch traverse - made it feel harder than it should have. I think moving down a couple of steps after starting the traverse gives better holds. Second pitch was fun, enough placements where necessary, but plenty of really positive holds to climb well above gear. Scrabbely top out, but more soil than loose rock.

Hidden 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
climbtim 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
smolders 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
rd20 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S


with Martin
garywong 24/Jul/10 AltLd rpt

Led 1st pitch.

kleinej 24/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

with Gary
Ceridwen 24/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with Mick
brian watson 14/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with gary mason
Ed Griffin 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Neill Turner, Alaric
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Carly 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Richard
jezb1 11/May/10 Lead

Lead both pitches this time.

Ben Sidsaph 05/May/10 AltLd O/S

tom lead the first pitch. I lead the very run out and (brown trouser) scary top pitch

with Kate Bolton, Tom Norton
KateBolton 05/May/10 2nd

This was an awesome climb. The first pitch had a tricky start and a tiny belay point. Finished in the dark, first experience of not being able to see where the hell I was putting my feet.

clipskipper 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Stiff at the VS grade.

with Jez B
jezb1 18/Apr/10 2nd

Bailed on lead of P1 after getting wasted on Sinbad, E1. Delicate first pitch in places.

Hidden 13/Sep/09 AltLd
ChrisBrooke 06/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen
Monkey_Alan 06/Sep/09 AltLd

Led 1st pitch. Finally got round to doing the route that I failed last year.

with Oli Dorrell, Julian Prieto
Julian Prieto 06/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Alan Blanchflower, Ollie Dorrell
uncontrollable 08/Aug/09 AltLd β

lead pitch 1

with bob
Bob M 08/Aug/09 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?/Aug/09 AltLd
with Westy
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
climbergg 05/Jul/09 AltLd
Tim M 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Emma
Elliot King LC&CC ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S


garywong 10/May/09 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

Ceridwen 26/Apr/09 AltLd rpt
with Mark
cliffy 19/Apr/09 AltLd
PilarMartinez 19/Apr/09 AltLd
with cliffy
jamie ward 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Marcus Harvey
Ceridwen 22/Mar/09 AltLd O/S


with Andy Mosienko
breed 21/Feb/09 2nd O/S

First trad and multi pitch route. AWESOME

with Ellis Bird
mutt ??/2009 -
with Naomi Moran
Hidden ??/2009 -
Bob M 12/Nov/08 Lead
Max Streeton 21/Sep/08 Lead
Monkey_Alan 21/Sep/08 2nd dnf

Missed foothold to arête to the left and knackered my arms hanging about too long.

matt.woodfield 13/Sep/08 AltLd
Ed Babs 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with John Vet
Hidden 30/May/08 AltLd O/S
riddle 30/May/08 AltLd dog

This deserves a 5a tech grade at least. Take the guide book with you. This route is brown trousers!

with Yasmina
RocknRoll 12/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

I lead the second pitch, traversed right then pulling up over the overhang felt committing. The traverse left under the roof on the first pitch felt committing

with Ramon Marin Martinez
dobrek 22/Sep/07 Lead
with Chuck
Clee 22/Sep/07 2nd
with John
brian watson 25/Aug/07 AltLd rpt
with Andy and Paul
MontyH 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S

good route, led 1st pitch.

with Brian and Paul
tobydunford 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S

lead 1st pitch

with Ben Smith
feeko 13/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Dad
vet 08/Jul/07 2nd
with Helen
beardy mike ??/2007 -
with Rob Scheicl
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
mike.moss ??/2007 Lead O/S
Bob M 08/Oct/06 AltLd
five ?/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Bob M 27/Aug/06 AltLd
with Pam Jolliffe
Brucifer ?/Aug/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Bob M 23/Aug/05 AltLd
Bob M 03/Apr/05 AltLd
with Pete Sedgwick
feilx ??/2005 -
brian watson ??/2005 Lead dog

had rest on first pitch went wrong way lead rest

Budge 16/Oct/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 09/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Bob M 14/Feb/04 AltLd
Norman_P_W 14/Feb/04 AltLd
with Bob M
Bob M 18/Sep/03 AltLd
with Stewart Walker
john1 ?/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
with Jim
Bob M 30/Jun/02 AltLd
with Julian Taylor
Hidden 30/Jun/01 AltLd
Bob M 14/May/00 AltLd
with Jill Stevens
andyfeds 27/Jul/97 AltLd rpt

I led bottom pitch again, properly this time!

with Andy C
Bob M 19/Jul/97 -
with Allan Yeend
andyfeds 15/Jun/97 Lead

Went badly off-route, traversing right too early. Caused problems for weeksie!

with Weeksie
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
colin milton 27/Aug/95 AltLd
with eric milton
MoWalker3 29/Jun/92 AltLd
with Joe
kp64zl ?/Dec/89 2nd
with Mark Ryle
Russell Lovett 06/Nov/83 AltLd O/S

Seconded first pitch. Lead second pitch.

with Nigel Coe
Nigel Coe 06/Nov/83 AltLd
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 22
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set