Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.


Rockfax Description
A reasonable line with good protection. Start 3m right of Black Sunshine at an overhang leading to a thin crack underneath a gap in the overhangs at 10m. Surmount the overhang and climb the crack to just below a bulge. Traverse left a couple of moves to a flake-crack leading up to the overhang forming the left side of the gap. With conviction pull rightwards round the overhang and into the gap. Bridge this to jugs and continue to the corner on Black Sunshine. At the top of this take a direct line on excellent rock to a small overhang. Pull through this on good holds and finish up a delightful prickly rib. © Rockfax

FA. Simon Laker, Pete Finklaire 12/Jun/2010.


All-the-starred-non-bird-banned-E1s-at-the-Ruckle-in-a-day challenge


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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 28
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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