30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The left arete of the huge roofs of The Fin is extremely exposed and gives extraordinary climbing for the grade. The second pitch is outstanding. One of the best VSs in the Boulder Ruckle.
1) 4b, 17m. Climb a crack to a small ledge. Traverse right and up a short corner to a sentry box and belay.
2) 4c, 18m. Traverse right along the fault-line for 5m then climb rightwards to gain the exposed arete. Ascend the arete to an overhang. Pull over and climb past a large flake to an easy exit groove. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Snell, K.Knight 14/May/1978

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Swanage A-Z, Orange Spot Swanage, South West VDiff-HVS.

Buccaneerbilly 14/Jan AltLd

Watched Dave glide up the first pitch then I made a pigs ear of the traverse, we got there though. Thoroughly enjoyed this route.

dave o 20/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with James R
andycash 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Craig Sands
AJM 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/16 AltLd
Geoffers 04/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
with Mark
matteo_8 31/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
BarrySW19 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Good route - 1st pitch is easy and fun. 2nd is exciting and the move to gain the arete feels hard for the grade.

with Jon
SenzuBean 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

First pitch was brilliant climbing, nice and varied to a great belay ledge. Second pitch was quite difficult to protect the traverse (one okay nut in the middle), and then I couldn't get any gear at all in at the arete. I finally managed to get one so-so purple totem in a pocket, but I wouldn't have wanted to fall on it. If I had fallen, and the cam ripped, I would've taken a monster swing (and if the nut failed too, I would've bashed into a rock wall). Because of the poor gear on the traverse and on the bottom of the arete, I think this route was too serious for VS (although in hindsight, maybe it would've been fine if I traversed with feet on the higher break?). Did the move onto the arete, which was brilliant. Then pleasant climbing, and a fairly amenable roof followed by the top-out.

with Barry
mattprince 24/Aug/16 Lead
with Josh Rigby
peg 13/Aug/16 AltLd
hfotheri 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with simon
Bob M 11/Aug/16 AltLd
with Harry Cripps
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Andy O'Conner
Hidden 27/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
cdpuk 16/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Led p1. Accidentally ended up above the sentry box, but that didn't spoil the main event.

Hidden 16/Jan/16 Lead O/S
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Almorr ??/2016 Lead
mikehenesy 31/Oct/15 AltLd β

Dave did the first pitch and Lloyd decided the fella with the bad back deserved an outing. Went out horizontaly then up, think that's maybe the way you're supposed to do it. Lots more gear that way. Marvelous Swanage sunset as Dave just avoided a freeze in the dark.

with lloyd harris, Dave Garrity
Bob M 27/Sep/15 AltLd
Nexonen 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Jen
JenDurden 27/Sep/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden 12/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Trace 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch, second pitch exposed but with good holds and decent gear.

Pete_Frost 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Great climb, not hard but a cool head would be an advantage.

with Blake Williams
roberts1234567890 30/Aug/15 AltLd
with Paul Taylor
Monkey_Alan 30/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
smollett 29/Aug/15 Lead

Started raining at top of p1. Top of p2 dripping. The rest stayed relatively dry.

Jurga 29/Aug/15 2nd

Rained so P2 a bit wet

with yvette, James
Andy Chubb 22/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Another great Boulder Ruckle climb. Nick P1. Me P2. A fairly straight forward first pitch followed by a bold traverse out right to the arete. Follow the jugs over the small overlap to a nasty loose top out.

with Nick Gregory
Julian Prieto 09/Aug/15 Lead rpt
LJC 07/Aug/15 AltLd rpt


with Marion
jacko120 05/Aug/15 Lead

Lead both pitches

paultaylor ?/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
with Matt Roberts, Will I Am
robfir 22/Jul/15 -

Lead P2

mattprince 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with David Holmes-Evans
Hidden 24/Jan/15 2nd
Hidden 24/Jan/15 AltLd
ian bryant ??/2015 -
petrch 30/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Maarten Youngman
Dave Mahon 26/Oct/14 AltLd

I led P2. Very exposed at the arete, amazing climbing

with Justin Sharpe
Cheese Monkey 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Epic! Sea was massive so got soaked on the traverse in. Only just passable. Second pitch was amazing

with Vienna
Bob M 21/Sep/14 AltLd
with Stewart Walker
Hidden 17/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Dave Thompson 17/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Great exposure on the second pitch. The topout is a bit too loose for 3*, but the rest is excellent.

with Emily
Emily 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S

More enormous holds. I like Swanage!

with Nick
Ciderslider 09/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Led both pitches this time - second pitch is simply sensational - the airy traverse followed by the exposed arete is brilliant ! The top out is one of the worst i've experienced (even by ruckle standards)

ciderspider 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 09/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

with Paul Stevens, Jill Stevens
Hidden 02/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead
joedoherty 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
mattprince 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/14 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2014 -
puppythedog 30/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Swanage blew my mind, I'm not used to such bold and steep territory at such low grades. This was doable although airy only go (pitch 2). The top out is scary particularly if you don't place much gear because the ground feels easy.

with Steve
Hidden 28/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
druss 28/Nov/13 AltLd dog

Came off on P2 due to underestimated steepness and awkwardness of the traverse with heavish bag. Sustained from the start.

CurlyStevo ?/Nov/13 AltLd

I lead pitch 2 this time

with PuppyTheDog
tev 29/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

p1 me, p2 Andy

with Andy
Hidden 29/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
The Ivanator 22/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
with Stevo
Hidden 20/Sep/13 2nd rpt
CurlyStevo ?/Sep/13 AltLd

I lead pitch 2, All in very good and very easy for VS

sarpedon 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2, airy traverse, pitch 1 is straightforward.

JenDurden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Nexonen 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Casey, Jen
andrea83 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Not so keen on Boulder Ruckle-don't have confidence in the rock here or anywhere in Swanage come to think of it. Too used to lovely Cornish sea cliff granite. A bit loose generally. Scrambling up what felt like 45 degree grass and pebbles at the end.

with Hamish
Hamish777 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I lead P2, Andrea P1.

with Andrea
TimKnight 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, left 'the pitch' to Dave

with Dave Marshall
Mattzx6r 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch lead. Good moves out along the fault. Didn't come across the flake mentioned in the guide book though... There's a fairly new looking 'T' section alloy stake at the top.

with Chris Evans
Hidden ?/Aug/13 AltLd
Sophie Nunn 20/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

Led p1

with Andy J, Floris
Hidden 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
kim.mulji 18/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch. Traverse out at first is the crux!

oscaig 18/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch

Hidden 30/Oct/12 Lead O/S
MontyH 27/Oct/12 AltLd
with brian and Pete
Hidden 29/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
Kevster 29/Sep/12 2nd rpt
tonevert 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
Bob M 16/Sep/12 AltLd
Julian Prieto 09/Sep/12 AltLd rpt

Led P2

with Ollie Dorrell
mikehenesy 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Gave Tim the glory of the second pitch, and he performed admirably. Tricky following the traverse on a tight rope, Ewan did well. Went for a swim afterwards.

with Jockie Ewan, Tim Johns
Ali.B 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with PeterRobers
Rob Laird 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
mr random 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/12 Lead
cpoad 21/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Did second pitch

with Neil C
Nexonen 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Jake
pippa_g 12/Aug/12 2nd

found the end of the traverse on P2 tricky due to lack of fitness - pulling over the roof was v easy by comparison

Monkey_Alan 12/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with James Bridger, Pippa Gillingham
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/12 Lead
ben.richards 19/Jun/12 Lead rpt
dickie01 25/Mar/12 AltLd
with Joe Heasman
louby 11/Feb/12 Lead
chris_B 11/Feb/12 2nd
Ian JL ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden 13/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 29/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Really nice route. Good positions and good gear. Take a camera, as the arete makes a great photo angle from the first belay.

with Warren Burke, RMC
lukerathmell 19/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Carl Stubbs
carl_123 19/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with luke rathmell
Hidden 14/Oct/11 AltLd
Hidden 09/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 09/Oct/11 AltLd rpt
with Jeremy, Viskii Chicu
ChrisBrooke 08/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Matt Swain, John Inkpen
Steve Lenartowicz 26/Sep/11 Lead
with Clare
Cat Hendrie 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Stunning climb. Climbed it with one of those stonking colds that make you feel as weak as a duckling. Luckily there was a good knee bar under the traverse at the start of the 2nd pitch so I had plenty of time to work out the next few moves. The guide book is right though, it is a little bold as you start the second pitch. Great holds though. Top out was a bit hairy.

LukeyG ?/Sep/11 Lead

lead both

Hidden 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Pete Scott 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Jimbo
MarkRyder 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 in light rain, thankfully it stopped for P2

with Mark
Ciderslider 10/Aug/11 2nd
Fiona McFarlane ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

First lead

ben.richards 08/Feb/11 Lead rpt
with Szilard
felixizzy ??/2011 -
Ceridwen 21/Nov/10 AltLd rpt
with Edwin
Kevster ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/10 AltLd rpt
Monkey_Alan 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt
tev 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Alan B
Sophie Nunn 21/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Alex
AlexD 21/Oct/10 AltLd
with Sophie
Monkey_Alan 17/Oct/10 AltLd

Led P2.

Julian Prieto 17/Oct/10 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

jezb1 16/Oct/10 AltLd

P1 this time. Quality route.

The Ivanator 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Great route, I led p2 inelegantly ...but successfully!

with Jez
Hidden 10/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
duncan 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
gibsond 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Andre lead first pitch and I lead second pitch. Fantastic second pitch with serious exposure!!! Awesome route.

LJC 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
ben.richards 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Absolutely amazing second pitch - a must-do for all!

Hidden 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
dickie01 22/Aug/10 AltLd

Did it in the sodding wet - lead the second pitch - rock stays amazingly grippy even when soaked. second time I've done this climb one of my fave vs's

with Joe Heasman, Nick Briggs
Hidden 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
climbtim 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Felt smooth and comfortable

fragglerock 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

1st pitch: DL led, DJ 2nd, JL 3rd 2nd pitch: JL led, DJ 2nd, DL 3rd

with Duncan Johnstone, Jon Lumb
mikehenesy 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Cracking rock, good gear, traverse a bit reachy at one point. Unknown to me Stuart fell off the traverse - and he's a big lad! Thought he was just trying to free stuck gear. Like the experienced aplinist that he is he prussicked back up to glorious success. Had the foresight to dangle some slings down for the last 'trial by loose earth' shitty bit, the tops are getting even looser - everyone should do this!

with Stuart Fletcher
jezb1 01/Aug/10 AltLd

Very straight forward but quality route. Ld P2.

Monkey_Alan 01/Aug/10 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

Andre Clarke 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

with Alan
rd20 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S


with Martin
smolders 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
staceyjg 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Chris 1st pitch, Barra 2nd

minaturechris 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Ybot Htulk ?/Jul/10 AltLd
with Jez
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
KateBolton 19/May/10 2nd

A really enjoyable climb with a very exposed arete complete with crashing waves underneath.

pezzerrr 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
tscoobydoo ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with phillip belcher
Hidden ??/2010 -
cayteye 12/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

i led pitch 2- 4C

with Brian Mead
Geoffers 02/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Hidden 13/Sep/09 AltLd
Monkey_Alan 06/Sep/09 AltLd rpt

Led 1st pitch.

leonjones 06/Sep/09 AltLd
Julian Prieto 06/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

Indy Nile 06/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

p1 Leon, p2 me

MontyH 29/Aug/09 AltLd
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
Ceridwen 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Mosienko
nick hawkins 12/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1

with peter
halfwaythere 12/Aug/09 AltLd
Ramon Marin 10/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Salomon Fernandez
Monkey_Alan 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Getting past the overhang was proving tricky until I saw the foothold on the left.

with Karl, Stella Moggs
uncontrollable 08/Aug/09 AltLd β

lead pitch 2

with bob
Bob M 08/Aug/09 AltLd
Different Steve 01/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Clare
Graham Westbrook ?/Jul/09 AltLd
petegruf 09/May/09 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch. great exposure

with LozM
LozM 09/May/09 2nd
with Pete M
dickie01 11/Apr/09 AltLd

Nice route to get us in the swing of things

with Joe Heasman
Ed Westwood 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
@ndy 28/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Steven Andrews 28/Feb/09 2nd O/S
with Simon Goldman
breed 21/Feb/09 2nd O/S
with Ellis Bird
jacobjlloyd ?/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Tim Faudemer
Hidden ??/2009 -
tscoobydoo ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
MontyH 27/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Paul Milton
Matt Bennett 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S

lead crux pitch

Richard Horn 03/May/08 AltLd O/S
manwithacam 24/Feb/08 2nd

Get right on the arete for the full effect!

with Mr Mantle
mike.moss ??/2008 Lead O/S
Wilbur 19/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with Morgan
Morgan Woods 19/Dec/07 AltLd O/S

Spicy little number with a steep second pitch and "interesting" top out.

with Wilbur
RocknRoll 19/Dec/07 AltLd O/S

Lead First Pitch, Second 2nd pitch

with Tris
garburn 24/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Rob84 21/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with Sam Strong
SamStrong 21/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with Rob Dyer
Clee 22/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Lead on first pitch

with John
Different Steve 22/Sep/07 AltLd rpt

Led P1, very pleasant

with Martin Hore & Guy Reid
tobydunford 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S

lead 2nd pitch

with Ben Smith
Hidden 04/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 03/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Kate
Rob84 ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Sam Strong
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
topsyturvy ??/2007 Lead O/S

second and best pitch.

kevinknights 12/Nov/06 2nd O/S

Fantastic route. Particularily enjoyed the no hands rest right on the base of the bottomless arete

with Lee
clipskipper 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Massive belay ledge and quite excellent second pitch - well worth the three stars.

with Kevin Knight
Bob M 03/Oct/06 AltLd
Hidden 17/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Ybot Htulk ?/Sep/06 AltLd
with Kristoffer
kristofferalpsjo ?/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Toby Kluth
featuresforfeet 20/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with Patrick
ChrisBrooke 20/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with John Inkpen
MontyH 19/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

great route with good gear throughout.

with Brian
AJ007 ?/Aug/06 AltLd
timharrison 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Great Route, Pete's first trip into the ruckle!!

with Pete
kenneM ?/May/06 Lead

With CJ while both at Sandbags

with Steve Crosby-Jones
Peter Swift ??/2006 TR O/S
with tim
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
chrisbevins ??/2006 Lead O/S
Piers Harley 22/Dec/05 AltLd β
with Simon Clark
Piers Harley 07/Dec/05 AltLd β
with Paul Winder
Hidden ?/Dec/05 AltLd O/S
Bob M 23/Aug/05 AltLd
Piers Harley ?/Jun/05 AltLd
with Rob Marson
feilx ??/2005 -
brian watson ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Jeff Yaldren
Bob M 14/Feb/04 AltLd
Norman_P_W 14/Feb/04 AltLd
with Bob M
Hidden 05/Jun/02 AltLd
Hidden ??/2002 -
Bob M 03/Sep/00 AltLd
with Jill Stevens
andyfeds 02/May/99 AltLd

I led second pitch

with Andy C
Bob M 26/Apr/98 Lead
with Jill Stevens
tomkhoward ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Andy Plumb
sdht ??/1992 -
with John Burnip
GuyM ??/1985 -
Nigel Coe 11/Nov/84 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 13/Nov/83 AltLd
with Norman Wright
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 62
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set