Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A real beauty but the serious start puts off many attempts.
1) 6b, 20m. Gain a groove and follow it to a small roof. Swing right and undercut around to a friable ledge. Swing left and attack the perfect 2m roof-crack. An easy groove leads to the faultline and belay.
2) 5a, 12m. Take a groove on the right to a ledge then move back left to another groove system right of the arete. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker, D.Light 05/Nov/1983.
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Barracuda
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)