18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb a crack on the right of the slab, then follow flakes leading to a roof. Move left to finish via a groove. Serious above half height. © Rockfax

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UserDateNotes
JDSwain 26 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this 25/03/07, a nice route with a very serious upper section, there was no gear above half height meaning possible ground fall potential. The good gear ends along with the flake. Undergraded, felt just as hard as Eskimo Nell (E1 5b).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed this 25/03/07, a nice route with a very serious upper section, there was no gear above half height meaning possible ground fall potential. The good gear ends along with the flake. Undergraded, felt just as hard as Eskimo Nell (E1 5b).
drcorbasisgod 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this at the weekend, and although the gear is lacking at the top it seemed ok technically. Hardest where the flake/crack peters out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed this at the weekend, and although the gear is lacking at the top it seemed ok technically. Hardest where the flake/crack peters out.
Bern 24 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this (or a new variation) last weekend 21/11/2004, I went straight up the arete until under the little roof and then turned this on the right. The protection was not very good at the top but it seemed a worthwhile climb, it was quite damp so hard to grade, I thought HVS 5a/b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed this (or a new variation) last weekend 21/11/2004, I went straight up the arete until under the little roof and then turned this on the right. The protection was not very good at the top but it seemed a worthwhile climb, it was quite damp so hard to grade, I thought HVS 5a/b.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Andrew Sloan 5 Jun Lead O/S Found it strenuous.
with pete
Found it strenuous.
with pete
bryan61 24 May Lead O/S
with jjb100
with jjb100
jopayne1988 14 Apr 2nd dog
NeilHowarth 14 Apr Lead O/S
ssutton 13 Apr 2nd
with Edward
with Edward
Garethza 3 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2018 2nd dog
Rob Houston ??, 2018 -
takaczapka 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ned
with Ned
TomOxenham 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
andycash 25 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf Shoulder not up to it today, gave in and took a fall,
with Rich Hughes
Shoulder not up to it today, gave in and took a fall,
with Rich Hughes
Dangerous David ?Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 11 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Neither particularly serious nor hard, felt VSish.
with Jana
Neither particularly serious nor hard, felt VSish.
with Jana
hfotheri 13 Aug, 2016 Lead dog rested once below the roof crux. Not a lot of gear past this point but nice moves.
rested once below the roof crux. Not a lot of gear past this point but nice moves.
peg 12 Aug, 2016 2nd
tonevert 22 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 22 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
James_L88 27 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Listen to the guidebook when it says "serious above half height"! Not a lot of gear to speak of above the small roof.
with KatDay
Listen to the guidebook when it says "serious above half height"! Not a lot of gear to speak of above the small roof.
with KatDay
nathan2day 6 Sep, 2014 2nd
nikinko 6 Sep, 2014 2nd dog We went right at roof instead of left. Lots of falling off!
We went right at roof instead of left. Lots of falling off!
DanC1985 6 Sep, 2014 Lead rpt
with Nicky, nathan2day
with Nicky, nathan2day
stonemikey 23 Jul, 2014 2nd
with Edd Wratten
with Edd Wratten
Sophie Nunn 15 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt
SimonMarcYoung 1 Jun, 2014 2nd
Philoosh 18 Apr, 2014 TR dog
duncan 23 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
tombushell 2 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf
tombushell 2 Jun, 2013 2nd rpt
Sam Husband 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
DanC1985 29 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Deviated onto Eskimo Nell E1 5b, due to old guide with no topos
with Trevor
Deviated onto Eskimo Nell E1 5b, due to old guide with no topos
with Trevor
scott titt ??, 2013 -
AlexD 11 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S
Marti999 11 Dec, 2012 2nd O/S
with AlexD
with AlexD
Slarti B 9 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S Easy start, nice layback up flake then rest was really scary, even seconding! Superb lead by Paul
with Paul
Easy start, nice layback up flake then rest was really scary, even seconding! Superb lead by Paul
with Paul
pelvoux 9 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S amazing lead by Paul with a long run out after the roof
with Paul
amazing lead by Paul with a long run out after the roof
with Paul
ally1509 3 Sep, 2011 2nd dog
dan gibson 20 May, 2011 2nd rpt
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 20 May, 2011 Lead first half good solid rock, then gear gets a bit sparse as the rock deteriorates, ok.
first half good solid rock, then gear gets a bit sparse as the rock deteriorates, ok.
steve2006 8 May, 2011 Lead O/S serious!, nervous and slow might also describe my onsight. once you left the flake and above the only solid gear placement, I was madly searching for a crack that my wires would fit into, it felt like a E1/5a, I must have missed a placement. I hope to re-climb again to prove it was not just nerves..
serious!, nervous and slow might also describe my onsight. once you left the flake and above the only solid gear placement, I was madly searching for a crack that my wires would fit into, it felt like a E1/5a, I must have missed a placement. I hope to re-climb again to prove it was not just nerves..
james steven turney 8 May, 2011 2nd
Hidden ?May, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Ian JL 3 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
louby ?Mar, 2011 2nd
with chris_B
with chris_B
chris_B ?Mar, 2011 Lead O/S good route, not that serious
with louby
good route, not that serious
with louby
uncontrollable 25 Sep, 2010 Lead dog started off nicely, had to take a rest under the roof, turned left and spend the rest of the way wishing for some protection and a tope rope rescue...finished way off route to the left. An interesting climb but one should head the 'serious' remark in the Guide Book and it HVS 5a might be a bit of a Sandbag.
with Julian, Mark J
started off nicely, had to take a rest under the roof, turned left and spend the rest of the way wishing for some protection and a tope rope rescue...finished way off route to the left. An interesting climb but one should head the 'serious' remark in the Guide Book and it HVS 5a might be a bit of a Sandbag.
with Julian, Mark J
garywong 24 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with kleinej
with kleinej
kleinej 24 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
madguernseyboy 17 Jul, 2010 Lead dnf Fell twice 10m On second fall injured ankle.
Fell twice 10m On second fall injured ankle.
risby 15 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S
JimBee ?May, 2010 Lead rpt
with Andy Kuszyk
with Andy Kuszyk
Where is my shoe? 25 Apr, 2010 2nd dog Whoa, much too hard for me! Fell, rested, held onto gear to help me up, you name it, I did it! Hope to give it another shot, another time.
Whoa, much too hard for me! Fell, rested, held onto gear to help me up, you name it, I did it! Hope to give it another shot, another time.
Mr Tickle 25 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S Definitly E1 5b.
Definitly E1 5b.
davenev 25 Apr, 2010 Lead Greasy hold at the roof meant had to rest on gear - the word Serious in the description becomes meaningful after the very thin rusty peg!!!
Greasy hold at the roof meant had to rest on gear - the word Serious in the description becomes meaningful after the very thin rusty peg!!!
Alexstone ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Burt ?Aug, 2009 2nd
JimBee ?Aug, 2009 Lead dnf
with Burt
with Burt
jezb1 22 Jul, 2009 2nd crux more fierce than expected....
crux more fierce than expected....
clipskipper 22 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S Up to the roof fairly straightforward, but no gear once you're out on the face. Delicate but with good footholds.
with Jez B
Up to the roof fairly straightforward, but no gear once you're out on the face. Delicate but with good footholds.
with Jez B
riddle 4 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S Took the harder route, straight up at the roof. A little airy!
with miku979
Took the harder route, straight up at the roof. A little airy!
with miku979
MarkRyder 27 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with lee91
with lee91
tweedcore 16 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
with Sarah Joyce
gingerdave13 4 May, 2009 Lead dnf last climb of the day - got up to roof and decided it would be harsh to make mate follow. down climbed removing gear
with stig
last climb of the day - got up to roof and decided it would be harsh to make mate follow. down climbed removing gear
with stig
Ceridwen 26 Apr, 2009 Lead dog
with Mark
with Mark
Disco ??, 2009 2nd
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 26 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S
Bob M 23 Sep, 2008 2nd
with riggy
with riggy
Piers Harley 10 Sep, 2008 Lead β a typical Swanage route, much harder than it looks!!
with Richard Matthews
a typical Swanage route, much harder than it looks!!
with Richard Matthews
mike.moss 11 Aug, 2008 Lead
with Rollo
with Rollo
Rollo 11 Aug, 2008 2nd
Kevin Cass 7 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2008 Lead dnf
Hidden 24 May, 2008 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Mark Beecher
with Mark Beecher
Marq 3 May, 2008 2nd O/S Andy backed off
with Andy Livingstone, ASchwirtz
Andy backed off
with Andy Livingstone, ASchwirtz
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
andy jennings ?Oct, 2007 2nd O/S
andyfeds 4 Aug, 2007 Lead
with Andy C
with Andy C
Tom Livingstone ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
mrtom 8 Jul, 2007 Lead dog Fairly steep and thuggy, but loads of fun! Had to rest just after/at the big block. There's a hidden perfect hand hold in the back, if I'd have spotted it would have cleaned it no worries. Arse! :) Agree that it might be undergraded. Much harder than the VS 5a's in the area, so reckon it's prob a 5b. Good gear tho, all the way up the flake (not so much afterwards). Maybe E1 5b? Dunno, haven't done enough (or any at Swanage) to make a informed comment.
with Deophine and Chris Baily, but the didn't get up so ended up seconding too :)
Fairly steep and thuggy, but loads of fun! Had to rest just after/at the big block. There's a hidden perfect hand hold in the back, if I'd have spotted it would have cleaned it no worries. Arse! :) Agree that it might be undergraded. Much harder than the VS 5a's in the area, so reckon it's prob a 5b. Good gear tho, all the way up the flake (not so much afterwards). Maybe E1 5b? Dunno, haven't done enough (or any at Swanage) to make a informed comment.
with Deophine and Chris Baily, but the didn't get up so ended up seconding too :)
JDSwain 25 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S My first HVS. I feel it may be undergraded at HVS 5a due to the lack of gear above half height, possible ground fall potential! Felt just as hard as Eskimo Nell (E1 5b).
with Alex Balch
My first HVS. I feel it may be undergraded at HVS 5a due to the lack of gear above half height, possible ground fall potential! Felt just as hard as Eskimo Nell (E1 5b).
with Alex Balch
dan gibson 28 May, 2006 Lead O/S
with AJ
with AJ
Ed Babs ?Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marriot
with Sarah Marriot
Charlie Williams ?Mar, 2005 Lead dog
with Arthur Guy
with Arthur Guy
Hidden ?Nov, 2004 Lead O/S
jl 14 Jul, 2004 Lead O/S
with Rachel
with Rachel
clive-greenwood 15 May, 2004 Lead O/S
with Patricia
with Patricia
Hidden 27 Jul, 2002 Lead
Smudge03 27 Jul, 2002 2nd rpt
andybenham ??, 2001 -
MontyH 25 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
with Andy Lawrance
with Andy Lawrance
Rob Oram 8 Jul, 2000 Lead dnf Same as last time, just couldn't get past the crux! Bastard.
with John Hardy
Same as last time, just couldn't get past the crux! Bastard.
with John Hardy
Smudge03 8 Apr, 2000 2nd O/S
with Rich Featherstone
with Rich Featherstone
Rob Oram 6 Jun, 1999 Lead dnf Couldn't get past the crux.
with John Hardy
Couldn't get past the crux.
with John Hardy
Bob M 23 May, 1999 2nd
with Jill Stevens
with Jill Stevens
Gareth 24 Apr, 1999 Lead O/S
FrankW ??, 1999 Lead O/S
with Laura
with Laura
Hidden ?Jul, 1997 Lead
Hidden 1 Jul, 1996 TR
nacnud 5 May, 1996 Lead
sdht ??, 1993 -
GuyC 25 Apr, 1992 2nd rpt
with Dave S
with Dave S
GuyC 28 Jul, 1991 Lead dnf
with Clare
with Clare
steve taylor ?Jun, 1990 2nd
with steve kerr
with steve kerr
kylo-342 ?Jan, 1990 Lead
with Jim, Vanessa
with Jim, Vanessa
MoWalker3 18 Sep, 1988 -
RichardMc 4 May, 1986 Lead
with Rupert Hoare
with Rupert Hoare
Nigel Coe ??, 1985 -
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
Russell Lovett 29 Apr, 1984 2nd O/S Also lead and solved this route, but on different dates.
with unknown
Also lead and solved this route, but on different dates.
with unknown
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 25
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set