91m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine, mid-height traverse of this exciting area all the way from Varina to finish right of Arapiles Syndrome. It can be done in rough seas. Before starting you need to pre-place a rope on the twin stakes above the Lean Machine area, for the last belay.
1) 5a, 18m. From 8m up Varina, traverse right (small thread) past a groove to belay on a cracked prow. This is reported to be a serious pitch with ground-fall potential and it can be avoided.
2) 5a, 30m. Drop down and rightwards across the Zoolookologie bay thread. Continue past a slight prow and vague scoop. Belay down and right of a cracked pillar.
3) 4c, 35m. Climb down and right to traverse a weakness past various old threads, in the centre of a bay, to a comfortable stance on the far side in a groove.
4) 4c, 15m. Follow the corner to the top and a terrace where you hope to find your pre-placed rope. Pull out on the rope to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson, Brian Tilley 28/Aug/1997

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UserDateNotes
ian bryant 30 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: serious route and a bit different. pitch 1 is very bold. gull's nest there again in may 2003 - a lower traverse will avoid it, though not the dive-bombing gulls.
βeta?
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βeta: serious route and a bit different. pitch 1 is very bold. gull's nest there again in may 2003 - a lower traverse will avoid it, though not the dive-bombing gulls.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
afterthesend 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Great line. Chossy finish. Awesome position looking down the whole Ruckle. Well worth it...
Great line. Chossy finish. Awesome position looking down the whole Ruckle. Well worth it...
samparsons 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd Good fun, first pitch seemed very pointless as I didn't put any gear in until I got to the belay. Next 2 pitches fine, although a little dusty and loose in places. 4th pitch very loose but Tom climbed easierly. The top loose section extremely dangerous as I pulled on the rope to get to the grass a microwave sized rock came out of the wall dropping me on to the finishing ledge and fucking up my arm on the way. Love day up until then
Good fun, first pitch seemed very pointless as I didn't put any gear in until I got to the belay. Next 2 pitches fine, although a little dusty and loose in places. 4th pitch very loose but Tom climbed easierly. The top loose section extremely dangerous as I pulled on the rope to get to the grass a microwave sized rock came out of the wall dropping me on to the finishing ledge and fucking up my arm on the way. Love day up until then
Paul Eckton 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with Kevster
with Kevster
Kevster 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Luxulyan 21 Sep, 2013 Lead dnf Short lived attempt. Skipped pitch 1 as it seemed pointless. Started up on Uncry These Tears, got a couple of metres up with no protection in, pulled a hold off, fell backward onto the ledge and tumbled towards the sea, the rope came tight just as my head was going to take a dive into the sea. Nice one for putting a bit of gear in at your feet soph!
Short lived attempt. Skipped pitch 1 as it seemed pointless. Started up on Uncry These Tears, got a couple of metres up with no protection in, pulled a hold off, fell backward onto the ledge and tumbled towards the sea, the rope came tight just as my head was going to take a dive into the sea. Nice one for putting a bit of gear in at your feet soph!
Marti999 20 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S skipped first pitch as seems abit pointless;the loose block by p2 belay now been removed.
with Ed Babs
skipped first pitch as seems abit pointless;the loose block by p2 belay now been removed.
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 20 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S P2 only with Mark Ryder 3 Mar 2012. P3 with Marti. Trundled the big loose block by the P2 belay. Splash!
P2 only with Mark Ryder 3 Mar 2012. P3 with Marti. Trundled the big loose block by the P2 belay. Splash!
jcook1980 6 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Dan Moore
with Dan Moore
MarkRyder 3 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Finished straight up after P2. Character building top out.
with Ed Babs
Finished straight up after P2. Character building top out.
with Ed Babs
Hidden 21 May, 2011 Lead dnf
Mr Tickle 11 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Very interesting. First pitch not much gear and diagram for the first pitch in the guidebook isn't correct. 2nd pitch was good and fairly easy climbing but loose in places. Wasn't quite sure i belayed in the correct place but not a great belay with a massive loose block in front of me. First two pitchs took a while route finding and finding/setting up belays with lots of rope drag. Getting dark and decided to escape from 2nd belay upwards to very loose and steep ground and finished in the dark! very scary. Nice one Dave for the 3rd improvised pitch!
with davenev
Very interesting. First pitch not much gear and diagram for the first pitch in the guidebook isn't correct. 2nd pitch was good and fairly easy climbing but loose in places. Wasn't quite sure i belayed in the correct place but not a great belay with a massive loose block in front of me. First two pitchs took a while route finding and finding/setting up belays with lots of rope drag. Getting dark and decided to escape from 2nd belay upwards to very loose and steep ground and finished in the dark! very scary. Nice one Dave for the 3rd improvised pitch!
with davenev
davenev 11 Dec, 2010 AltLd
clipskipper 4 Nov, 2007 AltLd O/S 1st pitch very thin on gear with groundfall potential. Second and third an absolute delight - good rock and good gear in a fantastic position, and warm sun in November! Don't set the second belay too soon, though, otherwise you won't have enough on a 50m rope to reach the third :-)
with Sue Hazel
1st pitch very thin on gear with groundfall potential. Second and third an absolute delight - good rock and good gear in a fantastic position, and warm sun in November! Don't set the second belay too soon, though, otherwise you won't have enough on a 50m rope to reach the third :-)
with Sue Hazel
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