UKC Logbook - 'Elysium'

38m.

Rockfax Description
A great, technical pitch. Start 5m right of a large corner, beneath a huge roof at the faultline. Climb a crack to a ledge at the base of a thin crack in the smooth wall below the roof. Climb the thin crack past a peg to the roof, traverse rightwards to below a corner and climb this strenuously to another corner. Move left around the arete to join and finish more easily up Lightning Wall. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 07/Jan/1968.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Cool Names , Dorset , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Top 25 E Grades in the south west , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , All-the-starred-non-bird-banned-E1s-at-the-Ruckle-in-a-day challenge , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012) , Definitive *** Swanage

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
flash635	21 May	Show βeta βeta: Sunday 11th May 2025 my 2nd managed to come off on the first wall, swing and end up in space and not get back on. Ended up with a community "rescue" including a 2:1 pulley system (thanks Ellis!). As a consequence they abandoned my Rock 6 + 60 cm Alpine Draw + 2 x Krabs in the crack (I think above the break in the groove). Anyone passing that way subsequently it would be nice to get them back - they are Tough Tag labelled with address and phone number. Happy to pay return postage! I enjoyed the climb though! Technical 5b on the wall below the break, slightly scary traverse move or two right at the break, but juggy with hands off rest once you get into the groove above - I used the right hand thin flake/crack rather than fight with jams in the corner of the groove. The groove is actually ok, probably Ruckle HVS 4c (like Finale Groove crux).
Show beta βeta: Sunday 11th May 2025 my 2nd managed to come off on the first wall, swing and end up in space and not get back on. Ended up with a community "rescue" including a 2:1 pulley system (thanks Ellis!). As a consequence they abandoned my Rock 6 + 60 cm Alpine Draw + 2 x Krabs in the crack (I think above the break in the groove). Anyone passing that way subsequently it would be nice to get them back - they are Tough Tag labelled with address and phone number. Happy to pay return postage! I enjoyed the climb though! Technical 5b on the wall below the break, slightly scary traverse move or two right at the break, but juggy with hands off rest once you get into the groove above - I used the right hand thin flake/crack rather than fight with jams in the corner of the groove. The groove is actually ok, probably Ruckle HVS 4c (like Finale Groove crux).
Cyrees	9 Apr	Show βeta βeta: Large detached block near the top of lightning groove on the left. I marked it with an \"X\" but take care.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Large detached block near the top of lightning groove on the left. I marked it with an "X" but take care.
Pollie88	13 Mar	Show βeta βeta: Epic route. My 4th E1 at swanage but the first that probably conforms to the ‘Swanage’ style.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Epic route. My 4th E1 at swanage but the first that probably conforms to the ‘Swanage’ style.
Pollie88	13 Mar	Show βeta βeta: Epic route. My 4th E1 at swanage but the first that probably conforms to the ‘Swanage’ style.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Epic route. My 4th E1 at swanage but the first that probably conforms to the ‘Swanage’ style.
Pollie88	13 Mar	Show βeta βeta: Epic route. My 4th E1 at swanage but the first that probably conforms to the ‘Swanage’ style.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Epic route. My 4th E1 at swanage but the first that probably conforms to the ‘Swanage’ style.
Pollie88	13 Mar	Show βeta βeta: Epic route. My 4th E1 at swanage but the first that probably conforms to the ‘Swanage’ style.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Epic route. My 4th E1 at swanage but the first that probably conforms to the ‘Swanage’ style.
Kiddie68	13 Jan	Show βeta βeta: Superb. Loved it all. Big pitch, used a double set of cams and all 15 slings/quickdraws! Slight seepage below peg didn’t hamper the crux moves above. Gear is near perfect too.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Superb. Loved it all. Big pitch, used a double set of cams and all 15 slings/quickdraws! Slight seepage below peg didn’t hamper the crux moves above. Gear is near perfect too.
Kevster	1 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Crag swag left just after mid height break. I loved that red nut, if retrieved, please continue to love my nut by placing it in as many cracks as possible.
Show beta βeta: Crag swag left just after mid height break. I loved that red nut, if retrieved, please continue to love my nut by placing it in as many cracks as possible.
Chris_Tee	16 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Superb! The benchmark Swanage E1? Lead on a previous outing and endured a full on brawl with the corner - didn't fancy a repeat so took the obvious well travelled line 2m to the right. Similar grade just less....brawl-y? Big up Crewe and Winkworth for the FA - big line for the day no question!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Superb! The benchmark Swanage E1? Lead on a previous outing and endured a full on brawl with the corner - didn't fancy a repeat so took the obvious well travelled line 2m to the right. Similar grade just less....brawl-y? Big up Crewe and Winkworth for the FA - big line for the day no question!
Kyuzo	27 Oct, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Very enjoyable, exciting posittion, interesting climbing, though I think the comment about bucaneer is the wrong way around, bucaneer is more... atmoshpheric.Or maybe it was just the we had a beuatiful sinset when we did bucaneer. Both routes are really awesome.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Very enjoyable, exciting posittion, interesting climbing, though I think the comment about bucaneer is the wrong way around, bucaneer is more... atmoshpheric.Or maybe it was just the we had a beuatiful sinset when we did bucaneer. Both routes are really awesome.