38m.

Rockfax Description
A great, technical pitch. Start 5m right of a large corner, beneath a huge roof at the fault-line. Climb a crack to a ledge at the base of a thin crack in the smooth wall below the roof. Climb the thin crack past a peg to the roof, traverse rightwards to below a corner and climb this strenuously to another corner. Move left around the arete to join and finish more easily up Lightning Wall. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 07/Jan/1968

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Cool Names, Dorset

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Kyuzo 27 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable, exciting posittion, interesting climbing, though I think the comment about bucaneer is the wrong way around, bucaneer is more... atmoshpheric.Or maybe it was just the we had a beuatiful sinset when we did bucaneer. Both routes are really awesome.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable, exciting posittion, interesting climbing, though I think the comment about bucaneer is the wrong way around, bucaneer is more... atmoshpheric.Or maybe it was just the we had a beuatiful sinset when we did bucaneer. Both routes are really awesome.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
DavidR 10 Jul Lead O/S Amazing route in hugely intimidating location! Didn't move onto Lightning Wall quite as early - climbed the right side of the arete (in the same way as someone else wrote below - think it was about 5b too). Then joined Lightning Wall slightly higher up.
Amazing route in hugely intimidating location! Didn't move onto Lightning Wall quite as early - climbed the right side of the arete (in the same way as someone else wrote below - think it was about 5b too). Then joined Lightning Wall slightly higher up.
Toni Climber 5 Jul 2nd With Johnny
With Johnny
Lenny 3 Jun Lead rpt
with Stephen
with Stephen
Hidden 1 Jun 2nd
Mike_Hayes 1 Jun Lead O/S
with Cat
with Cat
Hidden 18 Apr Lead
mike.moss 30 Mar 2nd rpt
with AJM
with AJM
AJM 30 Mar Lead rpt Seconded it years ago. Cracking route, if a bit greasy in places.
with Mike Moss
Seconded it years ago. Cracking route, if a bit greasy in places.
with Mike Moss
eel 27 Feb Lead O/S
with Cheq Anna
with Cheq Anna
elfka 27 Feb 2nd O/S
with Eve Lancashire
with Eve Lancashire
Hidden ?? Lead
petecallaghan 11 Dec, 2018 2nd O/S
Dominic Acland 11 Dec, 2018 2nd
ollie1 11 Dec, 2018 Lead rpt
with Dominic Acland, Pete Callaghan
with Dominic Acland, Pete Callaghan
Olliebradbury 29 Oct, 2018 Lead
with Trevor , Gwain
with Trevor , Gwain
Olliebradbury 29 Oct, 2018 Lead
with Trevor , Gwain
with Trevor , Gwain
Olliebradbury 29 Oct, 2018 Lead
with Trevor , Gwain
with Trevor , Gwain
Olliebradbury 29 Oct, 2018 Lead
with Gwain , Trevor
with Gwain , Trevor
Olliebradbury 29 Oct, 2018 Lead
with Trevor , Gwain
with Trevor , Gwain
Olliebradbury 29 Oct, 2018 Lead
with Gwain , Trevor
with Gwain , Trevor
Olliebradbury 29 Oct, 2018 Lead
with Trevor , Gwain
with Trevor , Gwain
Olliebradbury 29 Oct, 2018 Lead
with Gwain , Trevor
with Gwain , Trevor
Olliebradbury 29 Oct, 2018 Lead
with Trevor , Gwain
with Trevor , Gwain
uncontrollable 28 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
Frank the Husky 27 Sep, 2018 -
with Fleuriot
with Fleuriot
Trace 16 Sep, 2018 2nd Bit pokey in the middle but all there
Bit pokey in the middle but all there
Hidden 15 Sep, 2018 2nd
NinaR 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
peakschris 25 Aug, 2018 2nd dog
with NinaR
with NinaR
punchpidge 5 Aug, 2018 2nd β
adamsriches 4 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Richard Kendrick 21 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Michael Bortoluzzi 21 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Not the best start to the day, dropped my nuts a few meters off the ground then took 4 or 5 ups and downd before I sorted a way though the crux to the break. Rest of the day made up for it though. Good route, not quite top 50 though.
Not the best start to the day, dropped my nuts a few meters off the ground then took 4 or 5 ups and downd before I sorted a way though the crux to the break. Rest of the day made up for it though. Good route, not quite top 50 though.
crossleysm 16 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
robgixer 16 Jun, 2018 2nd rpt
evhall 3 Jun, 2018 Lead dog coming out of the traverse was hard - so took a rest :-)
coming out of the traverse was hard - so took a rest :-)
Q.Estelles 2 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Mark Reeves 10 May, 2018 Lead O/S The crux was a little damp.
The crux was a little damp.
afterthesend 6 May, 2018 2nd rpt
samparsons 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S
afterthesend 21 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Will Beaumont 21 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S With a rope on my back (Tom had to untie one sue to drag)
with Tom dale
With a rope on my back (Tom had to untie one sue to drag)
with Tom dale
DredStripe 14 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with Tom
with Tom
LucaC 10 Oct, 2017 2nd rpt Oh so greasy
Oh so greasy
mjeffery 10 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
Pero 28 Sep, 2017 TR Rounded off the day nicely. Instead of going left onto Lightening Wall, I climbed the right side of the arete, which felt about 5b. Joined LW slightly higher.
Rounded off the day nicely. Instead of going left onto Lightening Wall, I climbed the right side of the arete, which felt about 5b. Joined LW slightly higher.
hfotheri 2 Sep, 2017 Lead dog Lead the crux and traverse clean but was pretty pumped after that & after a lot of faffing had to rest. Found the next bit a bit scary as the gear isn't the best & I was tired from the traverse. Finished up the wrong corner in my panic to get off the route. The first part if the route is great though
with simon
Lead the crux and traverse clean but was pretty pumped after that & after a lot of faffing had to rest. Found the next bit a bit scary as the gear isn't the best & I was tired from the traverse. Finished up the wrong corner in my panic to get off the route. The first part if the route is great though
with simon
Owen Davies 28 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
with James Pymn
with James Pymn
WhipperSnapper 20 Aug, 2017 Lead
Matt Cooke 20 Aug, 2017 2nd β
derico 20 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S First trad route at Swanage
First trad route at Swanage
Connorolfe 31 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
katiep 31 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Found traversing around the first overhang the most difficult bit. So much rope drag at the end!
Found traversing around the first overhang the most difficult bit. So much rope drag at the end!
Connorolfe 2 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
slowmotion 2 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S Great route. Want to lead it next time :)
Great route. Want to lead it next time :)
catrin289 14 May, 2017 Lead dog First attempt at an E1 - really mis-read the crux and ended up yo-yoing up and down from it getting slowly more pumped. After a rest I finally saw where it went. Fun climbing though.
with Martin
First attempt at an E1 - really mis-read the crux and ended up yo-yoing up and down from it getting slowly more pumped. After a rest I finally saw where it went. Fun climbing though.
with Martin
Caitlin 7 May, 2017 2nd dog Swung off route onto a blank slab! Not ideal!
Swung off route onto a blank slab! Not ideal!
ricci.andrea86 ?May, 2017 Lead O/S
tsyrett 29 Apr, 2017 2nd β
robgixer 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
andycash 15 Apr, 2017 Lead
with Rob Butcher
with Rob Butcher
mikeski 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Lenny 15 Apr, 2017 2nd
with Mark W.
with Mark W.
NickJH ?Apr, 2017 2nd
with Andy Dunhill
with Andy Dunhill
LucaC 27 Mar, 2017 2nd rpt
Flavio 18 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Some cool catterpillar backstrokes in the top groove
Some cool catterpillar backstrokes in the top groove
JendeHoxar 18 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Mark Stevenson 6 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Slightly damp...
with Helen Gibson
Slightly damp...
with Helen Gibson
hervenuttall ?Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
with Luca
with Luca
manwithacam 20 Feb, 2017 2nd What a route, epic. Geat fun
with Mark Grist
What a route, epic. Geat fun
with Mark Grist
The Grist 20 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
with Dan Metcalfe
Bettymolly ??, 2017 2nd O/S
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
Ciderslider 22 Oct, 2016 2nd rpt Both feeling a bit ropy after too much beer the night before - nice lead by Charley
with charley
Both feeling a bit ropy after too much beer the night before - nice lead by Charley
with charley
charley 22 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
islandlynx 25 Sep, 2016 2nd rpt
TomRiddelsdell 25 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Fantastic route. Tough crux but the corner is exciting without being too taxing
Fantastic route. Tough crux but the corner is exciting without being too taxing
charles-green 24 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Sustained first bit with a cool traverse round the arete. Nice route
Sustained first bit with a cool traverse round the arete. Nice route
Anna Maykova 18 Sep, 2016 2nd
with Ian MK
with Ian MK
Dizz 18 Sep, 2016 Lead Accidentally did an E3 variant as looked at wrong topo (line marked with dagger in CC guide) and climbed the middle of the wall to the break staying left in the crack, which gives a really reachy hard move out at the top to the break - ended up getting really pumped and resting as sandbagged myself for a warm up! :) Thought it was hard and sketchy for a 'well protected' E1! Have to do again properly!
with peter h
Accidentally did an E3 variant as looked at wrong topo (line marked with dagger in CC guide) and climbed the middle of the wall to the break staying left in the crack, which gives a really reachy hard move out at the top to the break - ended up getting really pumped and resting as sandbagged myself for a warm up! :) Thought it was hard and sketchy for a 'well protected' E1! Have to do again properly!
with peter h
Ian MK 18 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Mike Weatherill 29 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
Ciderslider 10 Aug, 2016 Lead Two falls on crux - lowered to ledge then got it third go - it's not over even after that getting into the upper groove is tricky
with Ben
Two falls on crux - lowered to ledge then got it third go - it's not over even after that getting into the upper groove is tricky
with Ben
treesrockice 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S I imagine this is quite good and easier when not gopping, chalk paste on hands. 3 pitches... 1 to keep us out the way of another party, 2 to reduce the rope drag, and 3 to top out...... what a mare, gave ed a serious baptism of fire on his first trad route...
I imagine this is quite good and easier when not gopping, chalk paste on hands. 3 pitches... 1 to keep us out the way of another party, 2 to reduce the rope drag, and 3 to top out...... what a mare, gave ed a serious baptism of fire on his first trad route...
bryan61 6 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt
with m meaney
with m meaney
cdpuk 6 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Silly slip on the steep bit where I missed a foot hold
with Geras, Chris Mooney
Silly slip on the steep bit where I missed a foot hold
with Geras, Chris Mooney
Geras 6 Aug, 2016 2nd
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
tonevert 5 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Paloma
with Paloma
Hidden 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 2016 Lead
Bloke on a Rope 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S That's more like it! A crux that doesn't involve hoikeing through a roof or getting pumped silly! Much more civilised.
That's more like it! A crux that doesn't involve hoikeing through a roof or getting pumped silly! Much more civilised.
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 2nd rpt
roryferris 9 Jul, 2016 2nd
Sophie Nunn 9 Jul, 2016 2nd rpt
with Neilaw
with Neilaw
Thumbspragger 9 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Neilaw 9 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Mike Weatherill 11 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
Matt Smith 9 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt Came back to this 5 years after dogging it. Improvement! Great route, greasy crux handhold though.
with jezb1
Came back to this 5 years after dogging it. Improvement! Great route, greasy crux handhold though.
with jezb1
jezb1 9 Jun, 2016 Lead Seven years after flailing around seconding this I finally got on the lead. Felt like an onsight and thought it was great despite the super greasiness off it in the evening.
Seven years after flailing around seconding this I finally got on the lead. Felt like an onsight and thought it was great despite the super greasiness off it in the evening.
Bruise Apprentice 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S The finest route I've led to date. The intermediate crimps were greasy and completely unusable, so moving past the peg was quite necky.
with vyl20
The finest route I've led to date. The intermediate crimps were greasy and completely unusable, so moving past the peg was quite necky.
with vyl20
thomasmouse 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with George Mellors
with George Mellors
ian1234567 22 May, 2016 2nd O/S
with seb lee
with seb lee
Francois R 8 May, 2016 2nd 6a. Easier than it looks. Good holds everywhere. The tricky part for me was exiting the 1st ledge on the corner. To lead next time.
with Stephen
6a. Easier than it looks. Good holds everywhere. The tricky part for me was exiting the 1st ledge on the corner. To lead next time.
with Stephen
ASchwirtz 7 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Russtygibbons 7 May, 2016 Lead O/S 1st Onsight E1. Greasy crimps and no chalk made it slightly more challenging
1st Onsight E1. Greasy crimps and no chalk made it slightly more challenging
Gavdee1 2 Apr, 2016 2nd
with Kevster
with Kevster
poeter210 2 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf
with carlos
with carlos
Kevster 2 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt First route of the year. Harder than I recall. ..
with Gavdee1
First route of the year. Harder than I recall. ..
with Gavdee1
Jeromecooper 15 Mar, 2016 2nd rpt Slight seepage on the crimps third of the way up. Still good climbing.
with Kelly Evans
Slight seepage on the crimps third of the way up. Still good climbing.
with Kelly Evans
Martin Bagshaw 11 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
with Rafal Malczyk
Rafal Malczyk 11 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
with Martin Bagshaw
with Martin Bagshaw
cem 20 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
with Pero
with Pero
Mike Weatherill 8 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
kenneM 21 Aug, 2015 2nd
with Chris
with Chris
Hidden 18 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt
jsmcfarland 18 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Brilliant route with two contrasting crux sections (thin crimps up to the main roof, and then hard off-balance moves getting around the corner). Well protected but a few of my cams walked a bit due to rope drag, a reminder not to get complacent from Tim was well received!
Brilliant route with two contrasting crux sections (thin crimps up to the main roof, and then hard off-balance moves getting around the corner). Well protected but a few of my cams walked a bit due to rope drag, a reminder not to get complacent from Tim was well received!
BenL 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Andrea
with Andrea
Andrew Sloan 1 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S A bit greasy where it mattered i.e. getting past the peg.
with Tim
A bit greasy where it mattered i.e. getting past the peg.
with Tim
Hidden ?Aug, 2015 Lead dog
LucaC 25 Jul, 2015 2nd rpt
with Greg
with Greg
Tubs 28 Jun, 2015 Lead dog Greasy mess under the roof so rested on the peg to dry holds. Nice climbing, but a bit disjointed as the crux is much harder than the rest of the route.
with Gregor, AJM
Greasy mess under the roof so rested on the peg to dry holds. Nice climbing, but a bit disjointed as the crux is much harder than the rest of the route.
with Gregor, AJM
AJM 28 Jun, 2015 2nd β
with Gregor McCombie, Tubs
with Gregor McCombie, Tubs
jon_gill1 13 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with ripper
with ripper
ripper 13 Jun, 2015 2nd hard - not helped by some rope jam shenanigans which meant I had to untie from one rope. Gave my leader, belaying at the top, quite a surprise when he took in the empty end...
hard - not helped by some rope jam shenanigans which meant I had to untie from one rope. Gave my leader, belaying at the top, quite a surprise when he took in the empty end...
LucaC 4 Jun, 2015 2nd rpt
with George
with George
Hidden 30 May, 2015 Lead O/S
richardashe 17 May, 2015 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 17 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Matt77 9 May, 2015 Lead O/S Fantastic route with a well polished crux. The bit coming round the roof and into the corner is exciting 3-D climbing.
with Shane
Fantastic route with a well polished crux. The bit coming round the roof and into the corner is exciting 3-D climbing.
with Shane
islandlynx 9 May, 2015 2nd Found this harder than expected on second. Need to improve my bridging
with Matt77
Found this harder than expected on second. Need to improve my bridging
with Matt77
Hidden 3 May, 2015 2nd O/S
ian d f 11 Apr, 2015 2nd rpt
with Mark Condon, pearson9596
with Mark Condon, pearson9596
pearson9596 11 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Mark Condon, ian d f
with Mark Condon, ian d f
ollie1 25 Mar, 2015 Lead dog
youwillfindjimbo 17 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 24 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S Bit damp under the corner but didnt detract. Great route with contrasting styles required.
with Steve
Bit damp under the corner but didnt detract. Great route with contrasting styles required.
with Steve
Shane Willis 2 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
Bristoldave 15 Nov, 2014 2nd
with Luke
with Luke
Si dH 25 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
with Stuart Fox
with Stuart Fox
Dave Thompson 17 Sep, 2014 Lead
with Oli
with Oli
stevoland 17 Sep, 2014 Lead β
Hidden 17 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt
steveb2006 11 Sep, 2014 2nd
with David Andrew
with David Andrew
will moy 7 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Matt Roberts
with Matt Roberts
roberts1234567890 7 Sep, 2014 2nd
with Will Moy
with Will Moy
RFWilkie 6 Sep, 2014 Lead
nige pacer 3 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
with Mike Lea
with Mike Lea
Kirill 2 Aug, 2014 2nd rpt
with cem
with cem
cem 2 Aug, 2014 Lead rpt
with Kirill
with Kirill
climbingpixie 1 Aug, 2014 2nd
with Pagan
with Pagan
Hidden 1 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
khalidq 20 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Jon Leighton
with Jon Leighton
jonleighton 20 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
brices 20 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
rustaldo 19 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Great route! The crux was just below the roof, holds were a little greasy. Once established in the corner there's a hands-off rest and pretty straight forward from there. ***
Great route! The crux was just below the roof, holds were a little greasy. Once established in the corner there's a hands-off rest and pretty straight forward from there. ***
Alex Hallam 19 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S Three weeks from now, I will be harvesting my crops. Imagine where you will be, and it will be so. Hold the line. Stay with me. And if you find yourself alone, riding in green fields, with the sun on your face. Do not be troubled. For you are in Elysium and you're already dead! This is probably one of the best climbs, to top of one of the best days climbing I've had. Ever.
Three weeks from now, I will be harvesting my crops. Imagine where you will be, and it will be so. Hold the line. Stay with me. And if you find yourself alone, riding in green fields, with the sun on your face. Do not be troubled. For you are in Elysium and you're already dead! This is probably one of the best climbs, to top of one of the best days climbing I've had. Ever.
Hidden 12 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Jun, 2014 2nd
Llinos C 12 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
markalmack 26 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with james marjot
with james marjot
Hidden 25 May, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 25 May, 2014 Lead O/S
bigbobbyking 25 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with Chris Allan, Chris Bull
with Chris Allan, Chris Bull
chrisallan 25 May, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 25 May, 2014 Lead
Brannock 25 May, 2014 Lead
Misha 18 May, 2014 Lead O/S Hard start and very un-Swanage like crux on crimps. Missed the peg as it's awkwardly mid crux and there are good wires below. Going round the roof and up the corner was surprisingly straightforward, lots of jugs to aim for. Great hands free rest in the corner. A good route but somehow lacks the 'top 50' quality in my opinion.
Hard start and very un-Swanage like crux on crimps. Missed the peg as it's awkwardly mid crux and there are good wires below. Going round the roof and up the corner was surprisingly straightforward, lots of jugs to aim for. Great hands free rest in the corner. A good route but somehow lacks the 'top 50' quality in my opinion.
Hidden 17 May, 2014 2nd rpt
Hidden 5 May, 2014 2nd
Mike_Hayes 4 May, 2014 2nd
Fran S8 4 May, 2014 Lead O/S
ben.meakin 4 May, 2014 Lead
Duncan Campbell 3 May, 2014 Lead O/S Brilliant. Sustained interest but with a great crimpy crux.
Brilliant. Sustained interest but with a great crimpy crux.
Martin Haworth 3 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 3 May, 2014 2nd O/S Perfect weather - fantastic place
with Martin Haworth
Perfect weather - fantastic place
with Martin Haworth
Cheese Monkey 21 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Pleased with this one. First crux was completely obvious what to do so had no issues. Second crux getting into the corner was tricky!
with squicky
Pleased with this one. First crux was completely obvious what to do so had no issues. Second crux getting into the corner was tricky!
with squicky
squicky 21 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S Great lead from Ben. Never too tricky but serious and foreboding, a wonderful climb with atmosphere and challenge.
Great lead from Ben. Never too tricky but serious and foreboding, a wonderful climb with atmosphere and challenge.
Ash Sayers 18 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
andycash 18 Apr, 2014 2nd
Hidden 14 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 9 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 4 Apr, 2014 Lead desperate, metal led upto peg and I led on his gear with one rest
desperate, metal led upto peg and I led on his gear with one rest
The_Boy_ODwyer 4 Apr, 2014 2nd
Luxulyan 30 Mar, 2014 2nd
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 30 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Kirill 29 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Hidden 23 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
duncan 23 Mar, 2014 2nd rpt
brices 7 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
with remus
with remus
Hidden 7 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
cymjt ??, 2014 -
Monkey_Alan 10 Nov, 2013 2nd
bryan61 21 Sep, 2013 Lead rpt
with berny
with berny
Tom Livingstone 1 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 1 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S Good climbing but with a tricky, crimpy crux.
Good climbing but with a tricky, crimpy crux.
Hidden 25 Jul, 2013 Lead
Hidden 24 Jul, 2013 2nd β
LukeyG 24 Jul, 2013 Lead
sarpedon 20 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S Sophie led.
Sophie led.
TiffTiff 20 Jul, 2013 2nd β
Sophie Nunn 20 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt
with Sarp, TiffTiff
with Sarp, TiffTiff
Hidden 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
wi11 8 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
with Mat, Vicky Hau
with Mat, Vicky Hau
Luxulyan 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Dan Browne
with Dan Browne
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
adam 24 20 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Stroppy 7 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S Good lead from Rog. I found the moves around the pegs tricky and getting the blasted thread out!
with RKirke
Good lead from Rog. I found the moves around the pegs tricky and getting the blasted thread out!
with RKirke
RKirke 6 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
budchawla ?Feb, 2013 2nd
Rockwarrior ?Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
ianto ??, 2013 -
Tangerine_Kingdom ??, 2013 2nd O/S
with adam 24
with adam 24
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead O/S
nigel pearson 11 Nov, 2012 2nd O/S well protected and sustained.
with Robin
well protected and sustained.
with Robin
Robin Woodward ?Sep, 2012 Lead
nickdonohue ?Sep, 2012 Lead
with Ian Bryant
with Ian Bryant
Kevster 26 Aug, 2012 2nd rpt
Paul Eckton 26 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Kevster
with Kevster
mattyork2 20 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Got a bit too psyched before leading and jittered up the first bit. Settled into the first crux on the lower wall and calmed a bit. Climbed the face after the mid height break, out right, and avoided the thrutchy corner. SO much climbing. So good. Need to get back to Swanage ASAP. Great trip. Thanks Johnny.
with Johnny Richard
Got a bit too psyched before leading and jittered up the first bit. Settled into the first crux on the lower wall and calmed a bit. Climbed the face after the mid height break, out right, and avoided the thrutchy corner. SO much climbing. So good. Need to get back to Swanage ASAP. Great trip. Thanks Johnny.
with Johnny Richard
Haydn Jones 11 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with pep
with pep
Hidden 1 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 24 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
BeccaSnowden 24 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S Hard and awkward around the corner!
Hard and awkward around the corner!
Jake Young 24 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with mwatson
with mwatson
Hidden 21 Jul, 2012 Lead rpt
w-watson 21 Jul, 2012 Lead dnf
L.miura 15 Jul, 2012 2nd dog
with Asha Osbon
with Asha Osbon
cooperman 23 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S 1st trad lead of the year, quite a wake up call!!
with Greg Foster
1st trad lead of the year, quite a wake up call!!
with Greg Foster
chris wyatt 17 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S Tip: - wait till the sun gets on it before climbing. Good lead by Rich in damp conditions
Tip: - wait till the sun gets on it before climbing. Good lead by Rich in damp conditions
richardr 17 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Crux was very greasy and felt 5c
Crux was very greasy and felt 5c
paultaylor 13 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
will moy 13 Jun, 2012 2nd tricky crux on small crimps. the body jam was a very welcome rest. looking forward coming back for the lead
with paul taylor
tricky crux on small crimps. the body jam was a very welcome rest. looking forward coming back for the lead
with paul taylor
Hidden 4 Jun, 2012 Lead rpt
kenhansard 1 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S done with Mike Trebble 5*
done with Mike Trebble 5*
Hidden ?Jun, 2012 Lead dnf
mwatson ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
mwatson ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 May, 2012 Lead rpt
3 Names 19 May, 2012 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
with Ed Bulman
Hidden 13 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Kris suriyo 10 May, 2012 Lead O/S
billb ?May, 2012 Lead O/S
louby 22 Apr, 2012 2nd
stuaart 22 Apr, 2012 2nd Chris led.
with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn
Chris led.
with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn
chris_B 21 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Rowan Mitchell 15 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
with Alan100
with Alan100
Alan100 15 Apr, 2012 Lead Great to have some nice technical face moves before a hands free rest and a spot of chimneying, jamming and underclings. All withing a few meters! There's solid gear to make it all fun too...
Great to have some nice technical face moves before a hands free rest and a spot of chimneying, jamming and underclings. All withing a few meters! There's solid gear to make it all fun too...
LucaC 13 Apr, 2012 2nd rpt
ben.richards 13 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S First E1 and its been a long time coming! Nice moves up the finger crack, a bit thuggy getting into the first corner, then the rest is sailing on jugs. Pumpy, but good rests when you need them.
with LucaC
First E1 and its been a long time coming! Nice moves up the finger crack, a bit thuggy getting into the first corner, then the rest is sailing on jugs. Pumpy, but good rests when you need them.
with LucaC
Simon Allcock 11 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
with Wilki
with Wilki
Ciro 11 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 3 Mar, 2012 Lead Three years after having a bit of a nitemer on this I finally led it. sweet!
Three years after having a bit of a nitemer on this I finally led it. sweet!
Hidden 3 Mar, 2012 2nd
Kevster 6 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
LucaC 15 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Finally... no nesting birds, other climbers on the route, water in the crack, or blood on the initial section! It was a long time coming!
Finally... no nesting birds, other climbers on the route, water in the crack, or blood on the initial section! It was a long time coming!
Dave Mahon 2 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S One of my first extremes - a fantastic, long pitch. Take a full rack!
with matt.jj
One of my first extremes - a fantastic, long pitch. Take a full rack!
with matt.jj
riddle 2 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S Too hot to climb
Too hot to climb
matt.jj ?Oct, 2011 2nd O/S Awesom!
Awesom!
jasonpm 24 Sep, 2011 2nd dog
with Steve IMC
with Steve IMC
Different Steve 24 Sep, 2011 Lead dog
with jasonpm
with jasonpm
Hidden 3 Sep, 2011 2nd
Justin T 3 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Beautiful climbing up soapy chalk-slime covered cracks, less chalking up and more wiping hands on trousers, perfect!
Beautiful climbing up soapy chalk-slime covered cracks, less chalking up and more wiping hands on trousers, perfect!
Monkey_Alan 31 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S First (proper) E1! Took some time working out the crux, but got there eventually!
with AlexD
First (proper) E1! Took some time working out the crux, but got there eventually!
with AlexD
AlexD 31 Jul, 2011 2nd rpt
Ceridwen 30 Jul, 2011 Lead rpt
with Andy Mosienko
with Andy Mosienko
annetweddell 29 Jul, 2011 2nd Aaargh! Nightmare of soapy rock & sea mist. Should have known better, but thanks to whoevers left all the jammed wires behind.
with Jeff
Aaargh! Nightmare of soapy rock & sea mist. Should have known better, but thanks to whoevers left all the jammed wires behind.
with Jeff
Hidden 4 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
wi11 27 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Frank C
with Frank C
AlexD 26 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 26 Jun, 2011 2nd rpt
with AlexD
with AlexD
tonanf 22 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt
with james
with james
tonanf 22 Jun, 2011 Lead
with james
with james
tonanf 22 Jun, 2011 Lead
with james
with james
manwithacam 19 Jun, 2011 2nd second time up this, really enjoyed seconding, the upper part of lightning wall is such fun.
with Mike R
second time up this, really enjoyed seconding, the upper part of lightning wall is such fun.
with Mike R
Jim Slater 22 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
with Trevor Wilson
ian d f 20 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
with Emmanuel
with Emmanuel
uncontrollable 19 Mar, 2011 2nd dog
Matt Smith 12 Mar, 2011 2nd dog Really annoyed i didn't get it clean, did the traverse (crux?) and then slipped taking out gear. Brilliant route though.
Really annoyed i didn't get it clean, did the traverse (crux?) and then slipped taking out gear. Brilliant route though.
John Tanner 12 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
halfwaythere 9 Feb, 2011 2nd
Hidden 23 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
halfwaythere ?Nov, 2010 2nd
manwithacam 24 Oct, 2010 Lead Great to do this at last! Hurray
with Joris
Great to do this at last! Hurray
with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 24 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S
cem 25 Sep, 2010 Lead rpt
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Hidden 15 Sep, 2010 Lead
Speeddemonsi 29 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
nordix 19 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn ?Jul, 2010 -
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
petitflous05 13 Jun, 2010 Lead dog Fell on the crux-finger crack. Would like to do it again clean!
Fell on the crux-finger crack. Would like to do it again clean!
WalnutHorse 12 Jun, 2010 2nd
Hidden 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S
brian watson 2 May, 2010 Lead β
scott titt 2 May, 2010 2nd
Graham Westbrook ?May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jan, 2010 2nd rpt
mutt ??, 2010 2nd
LoopyLou 13 Sep, 2009 2nd Single hard commiting move (for the short) above the peg on the lower section to reach the fault/break. Good gear.
with Roslyn
Single hard commiting move (for the short) above the peg on the lower section to reach the fault/break. Good gear.
with Roslyn
givemetea 13 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Spicy move just below the roof but it is well protected.
Spicy move just below the roof but it is well protected.
Hidden 6 Sep, 2009 Lead
UKB Shark 28 Aug, 2009 2nd
Hidden 22 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
sgl 30 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Jez
with Jez
jezb1 30 Jul, 2009 2nd Pretty sustained and full on. Top route though.
Pretty sustained and full on. Top route though.
PilarMartinez 12 Jul, 2009 2nd dog
w.pettet-smith 11 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S left hand start less well protected than the central crack start that the locals did. caused a bit of rope drag and all.crux sequence very nice.
with david coley
left hand start less well protected than the central crack start that the locals did. caused a bit of rope drag and all.crux sequence very nice.
with david coley
Dave Cundy ?Jul, 2009 2nd rpt
with Christian Saxtoft, Arwel Roberts
with Christian Saxtoft, Arwel Roberts
feilx 20 Jun, 2009 2nd rpt
with Angus
with Angus
mark89 17 Jun, 2009 AltLd
Ceridwen 6 Jun, 2009 Lead dog Fell and rested on the crux, which seams a bit reach dependent. So a bit gutted, fantastic climb none the less.
Fell and rested on the crux, which seams a bit reach dependent. So a bit gutted, fantastic climb none the less.
Sophie Nunn 6 Jun, 2009 2nd
Andy Peak 1 2 Jun, 2009 2nd
with Pete
with Pete
Hidden 20 May, 2009 2nd rpt
Hidden 20 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2009 2nd
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 2nd rpt
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 Lead
Elliot King LC&CC ?Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
Rob Pitt 31 Mar, 2009 Lead dog Wet
with Nick Arding
Wet
with Nick Arding
tobydunford 14 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
Mr Tickle 14 Feb, 2009 Lead dog did the crux, made a mistake going round the corner and had to take a rest....gutted! Great climb.
with davenev
did the crux, made a mistake going round the corner and had to take a rest....gutted! Great climb.
with davenev
davenev 14 Feb, 2009 2nd Had to clip a piece of gear to recover a bomber hex placement - otherwise clean. Strenuous sustained climbing
Had to clip a piece of gear to recover a bomber hex placement - otherwise clean. Strenuous sustained climbing
scott titt ??, 2009 -
mutt ??, 2009 -
with Naomi Moran
with Naomi Moran
DDDD ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 28 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Bob M 23 Sep, 2008 2nd
with riggy
with riggy
clipskipper 15 Jul, 2008 2nd dog
with Ed Babington
with Ed Babington
Ed Babs 13 Jul, 2008 Lead β Seconded with Iain Moodie 19 May 2012. I had forgotten how good this is!
with Coz
Seconded with Iain Moodie 19 May 2012. I had forgotten how good this is!
with Coz
Matt Bennett 28 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 3 May, 2008 Lead dog
with Rebecca Holland
with Rebecca Holland
Tobes ?May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Chris
with Chris
Hidden 24 Feb, 2008 2nd O/S
dan gibson 11 Feb, 2008 2nd rpt
with eddie church
with eddie church
Neil Adams 26 Jan, 2008 Lead O/S
with Andy N
with Andy N
Hidden 4 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
Katex 9 Aug, 2007 2nd
with Dan
with Dan
tonanf ?Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with rich
with rich
Different Steve 4 May, 2007 2nd rpt
with Guy Reid
with Guy Reid
Hidden 28 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
DrGav 12 Apr, 2007 2nd O/S Brilliant climbing, never too steep
with Andrey
Brilliant climbing, never too steep
with Andrey
Chad123 8 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S Excellent route, well worth three stars - finger crack section fine and well protected, the cruxy bit is the higher run out wall to gain the groove and the easier upper wall.
with Emily
Excellent route, well worth three stars - finger crack section fine and well protected, the cruxy bit is the higher run out wall to gain the groove and the easier upper wall.
with Emily
Hidden 21 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
chrisbevins ??, 2007 -
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden 8 Oct, 2006 Lead rpt
Different Steve 24 Sep, 2006 2nd O/S Top route!
with Jen Towill
Top route!
with Jen Towill
Richard Horn 20 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
Boxy 15 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S Brilliant
Brilliant
trevor macalonan 18 Jun, 2006 2nd O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 May, 2006 Lead O/S
jamieevans ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2006 2nd dog
dan gibson 23 Mar, 2006 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
with jamie evans
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 AltLd
brian watson ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Kyuzo ?Nov, 2005 Lead O/S
with Bernard Lam
with Bernard Lam
Owen W-G 7 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S Seconded a few times since and felt harder than I remember on crux and traverse R just above, conditions maybe a factor?
with Max
Seconded a few times since and felt harder than I remember on crux and traverse R just above, conditions maybe a factor?
with Max
Hidden 20 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 20 May, 2005 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
with Ben Gilbert
richgac 7 May, 2005 Lead O/S Nearly wiped out by a leader falling off Lightning
with Paul, Nick
Nearly wiped out by a leader falling off Lightning
with Paul, Nick
dannyboy83 ?May, 2005 Lead O/S
bigie bob ?Feb, 2005 Lead O/S
feilx ??, 2005 -
Hidden 14 Nov, 2004 Lead
duncan 26 Jun, 2004 2nd
with tobyfk
with tobyfk
Hidden 8 Jun, 2004 2nd O/S
Dave Reeve ?Jun, 2004 2nd O/S
with Tony Payne
with Tony Payne
Hidden 27 Apr, 2004 2nd
benjino ?Jan, 2004 -
ap ??, 2004 Lead O/S
cem 27 Sep, 2003 2nd
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
charlesmfrench 13 Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
with Caroline Waterhouse, Ian Waterhouse
with Caroline Waterhouse, Ian Waterhouse
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
with Viv
with Viv
pezzerrr 13 Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Feb, 2003 2nd O/S
JasonG ??, 2003 Lead O/S
with PaulW
with PaulW
Ally Smith ??, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Sep, 2001 2nd
Hidden ??, 2001 -
Ian JL ??, 2001 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 22 Oct, 2000 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
with Ian Smith
WB 23 Jun, 2000 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
steveb2006 14 Mar, 1999 Lead
with Ian Cartwright
with Ian Cartwright
DafSWMC ?Feb, 1999 2nd dog
Hidden 25 Apr, 1998 2nd O/S
Dave Cundy ??, 1997 2nd O/S
with Phil Lee
with Phil Lee
Hidden ?Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??, 1994 Lead
OMSKB 5 May, 1993 2nd O/S
with Richard Winfield
with Richard Winfield
pauldrew ?May, 1993 -
with John Wilkinson, Lisa Cox, Julian Cox
with John Wilkinson, Lisa Cox, Julian Cox
jcw ??, 1993 -
with Paul Drew
with Paul Drew
kylo-342 ?Mar, 1992 Lead
with Giles
with Giles
Roget 8 Feb, 1992 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
ewjudge 5 May, 1991 2nd O/S
with Sven Wardle
with Sven Wardle
Hidden ?Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?Apr, 1990 Lead O/S
with Ket
with Ket
Dave Musgrove 31 Mar, 1990 AltLd O/S
with Pete Finklaire
with Pete Finklaire
Robmwatt ??, 1990 -
Pete Nugent 31 Oct, 1988 2nd living in Bristol at the time.
with Lionel Edwards, Simon Harry
living in Bristol at the time.
with Lionel Edwards, Simon Harry
pete johnson ?Jul, 1986 2nd
with Andy Tallant
with Andy Tallant
Nigel Coe 18 May, 1986 2nd
with Brian Wyvill
with Brian Wyvill
adriandesouza ?May, 1986 Lead O/S
ill_bill ??, 1986 2nd
DDDD ??, 1986 AltLd
GuyM ??, 1985 -
Richard Weller 2 Sep, 1984 TR
Nigel Coe 23 Feb, 1984 2nd
with Pete Oxley
with Pete Oxley
JimR ??, 1983 -
Nigel Coe 20 Nov, 1982 Lead
with Dave Kyle, Tim Dunsby
with Dave Kyle, Tim Dunsby
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 94
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 94
Votes cast 90
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set