Rockfax Description
6b, S1. A rite-of-passage route with its crux at the top. From the starting ledge traverse the break left for 8m to a small ledge then climb the first big groove diagonally leftwards to its finishing bulge. Leaving the big jug may take some will power. © Rockfax

FSA. Crispin Waddy 8.9.86 08/Sep/1986

Ticklists: Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Hard water, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Dorset weekender, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?.

Dan Browne 13/Aug/17 DWS β

Brilliant, thanks for the beta Ed!

brian watson 13/Aug/17 DWS O/S


with Dan, John Rensten, Al Betts, Ed Babs
john rensten 13/Aug/17 DWS dnf

silly boy, cruised past the huge jug, matched the crimp, stepped up and missed the side pull...took a terrific fall from the very top which was actually fine and a great start to a fantastic day

with Ed Babs
Hidden 24/Jul/17 DWS O/S
Andrew Barker 23/Sep/16 DWS O/S

Brilliant. Felt very committing on my own. A bit dirty at the top.

quiffhanger 14/Aug/16 Solo rpt
with Ian C, Jacob
i_a_coops 14/Aug/16 -
Hidden 13/Aug/16 DWS rpt
Hidden 06/Aug/16 DWS β
Hidden 06/Aug/16 DWS O/S
hankyc 25/Jul/16 DWS O/S
stevoland 06/Sep/15 DWS β

What a line!

Gus 29/Aug/15 DWS
dswansonlow 29/Aug/15 DWS RP
will black 04/Jul/15 Solo β
AlexD 04/Jul/15 Solo rpt
Albachoss 04/Jul/15 DWS O/S

Incredible line!

Sophie Nunn 04/Jul/15 DWS dnf
feilx 04/Jul/15 DWS rpt
dswansonlow 04/Jul/15 DWS rpt
with Alex Banks
JCAshman ?/Jul/15 DWS β
adam 24 21/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Hot, chalkless ascent. The crux feels high!

Stuart Johnston 21/Sep/14 Solo O/S

High crux adds to the spice.

Cheese Monkey 21/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Beautiful. Crux pulling on horrifficly sandy dirty holds was spicy.

with Charlie, Rich R
oliver.ghill91 08/Sep/14 Solo O/S
with Mark C, Patrick Hill
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Solo rpt
James Oswald 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Good route but a scary, committing crux miles above the sea!

tim newton 23/Aug/14 DWS rpt
highrepute 23/Aug/14 Solo
Duncan Campbell 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Whoa. Did on my own at the end of the day with a big sea. Very exciting! Topped out with eyes on stalks. I don't like DWS but this ranks as one of my best climbing experiences to date.

with Rach
Wood for Trees 23/Aug/14 Solo β

scary with big sea, shouted down to Rachel for beta as I wasn't expecting the crux to be where it was. 5c

with Andre Heckler et al
BenNorman 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Went too far left to finish and mantel led sloppy shit covered shelf. Exciting haha Cool feature

morganator 23/Aug/14 Solo rpt

Exciting at the end of the day!

with Dan Arkle
Rachel Slater 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S
theotherpetehill 27/Jul/14 Solo β
with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 27/Jul/14 Solo rpt
with Peter Hill, Matt
andy_pemberton 23/Jul/14 Solo

It's quite high. How high does it have to get to be S2?!

BenL 20/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Sarp
Patrick Hill 12/Jul/14 Solo O/S
AlexD 10/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Matt, Ed, Sophie
Hidden 14/Jun/14 DWS O/S
Luxulyan 24/Aug/13 Solo O/S
quiffhanger 27/Jul/13 Solo rpt

Trying to persuade Angus to follow me. He half-did the crux, got gripped & down-climbed the whole thing!

Oddjob 21/Jul/13 DWS O/S

Hmm...Yeah crux on jugs is fine.....toping out on slopers covered in dust and dirt ....less pleasant.

quiffhanger 21/Jul/13 Solo rpt

Gutted I missed Matt's big splashdown following me. I love funky wall.

jonleighton 21/Jul/13 Solo rpt
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Solo
Boy 13/Jul/13 Solo O/S
with Emlyn James, Nathan Lee, Rhys Crabtree, Kim Tompson
nathanlee 13/Jul/13 Solo β

glad kim and jon went first, crusty finish!

with DWS Crew
feeko ??/2013 -
Bristoldave 16/Sep/12 Solo O/S
quiffhanger 19/Aug/12 -

Twice, second time to try and figure out some better beta at the top. Well shaky first time round. I'm still sure my first ascent was the easiest method. Just wish I could remember it.

jacobjacob 19/Aug/12 Solo rpt
Alex More 11/Aug/12 Solo O/S

classic - for any dws fanatics I stumbled upon this piece of history about the route & FA from a UKC article by a guy called Toby, hope he doesn't mind ... One day I was down on a ledge sorting ropes whilst Crispin eyed possible lines around us. Then I noticed he was gone and - more puzzlingly - was not tied in. He traversed a long way leftwards above overhangs, vanished around a corner and eventually reappeared on the cliff top. Reunited later he talked through the physics of what he'd done: the cliff was steep and not that tall, the water was deep and there'd been no real danger. I listened but didn't comprehend. The route was Fathoms; years later I realised it was probably the earliest first ascent in Britain made intentionally in DWS style.

quiffhanger 01/Jun/12 Solo β

Finally! Great as a weekend-kickoff late on Friday eve. Didn't disappoint.

with Jake
jacobjlloyd 01/Jun/12 Solo rpt
with Ross
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Solo O/S
Matt Smith 02/Oct/11 DWS dnf

One of the best lines on a route I've seen, too sustained for me though

Misha 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Tony
tim newton 29/Aug/11 DWS O/S
jonleighton 06/Aug/11 Solo O/S
jacobjlloyd 06/Aug/11 Solo O/S

Brilliant crux sequence at the top - i challenge you to climb this without smiling!

with Joe Kinsella, Jon Leighton, Harry Martin
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Solo β
Hidden 24/Jul/11 DWS O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Solo O/S
La Mont 13/Jul/11 -
feilx 13/Jul/11 Solo rpt
sarpedon 02/Jul/11 Solo rpt
dannyboy83 26/Jun/11 Solo O/S
feilx 26/Jun/11 Solo rpt
dswansonlow 04/Jun/11 DWS β
feilx 26/May/11 Solo rpt
funsized 25/May/11 Solo RP
Sophie Nunn 25/May/11 Solo O/S
tom106 25/May/11 Solo β
John Tanner 25/May/11 Solo β
sarpedon 25/May/11 Solo O/S
loz901 25/May/11 Solo β
La Mont 21/May/11 -
funsized 18/May/11 Solo dnf

biggest DWS fall yet!

with Felix
feilx 18/May/11 Solo rpt
morganator 28/Aug/10 Solo O/S
with Andy Benson
Mike Goldthorp 16/Aug/10 Solo O/S

What a peach! Great climbing on the strange varnished fishermans ledge rock, about f6a+/b

Alex Mason 16/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Wicked beautiful line. The top crux is doable a few different ways. Didnt really think about the fall potential when there.

with Mikey G
jacobjacob 08/Aug/10 Solo O/S

great fun, did it in a line of about 8 people :)

felixthelion 08/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Harder than the conger

littleluke ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Ed Babs 10/Jul/10 DWS G/U

splash splash 01/07/09. got it first try today

with Harry
Adam Booth 29/Jun/10 Solo β

Thank god my bro was at the top to give me the beta!

Ed Booth 29/Jun/10 Solo O/S

found this scary!

al99 26/Jun/10 DWS O/S
feilx 26/Jun/10 Solo rpt
feilx 12/Jun/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Solo
dan gibson 31/Aug/09 Solo rpt
with AJ, michael porter
Jus 04/Jul/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 20/Jun/09 Solo O/S
gnc760 04/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 Solo rpt
feilx 25/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Dhonny_Jaws 23/Aug/08 Solo β


dan gibson 23/Aug/08 Solo O/S
AJ007 23/Aug/08 DWS β
Castleclimber 01/Sep/07 Solo O/S

Felt very lonely at the crux rockover

with Justin
Jus ?/Sep/07 Solo
Ram MkiV 24/Aug/07 Solo O/S

The rockover crux felt very lonely and very high with no one else around apart from Dan probably snoozing atop the crag....

with Dan
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Solo O/S
Brown 16/Jul/07 Solo O/S
with Alex
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Solo O/S
derico ?/Aug/06 Solo β
with Andy
feilx 02/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Solo O/S
feeko ??/2006 -
Mark Stevenson 20/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Mark Riley ?/Aug/05 Solo β


bigie bob ?/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Jane Weir ?/Aug/05 DWS O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/03 Solo
Greg Cunningham ?/Aug/03 DWS β
with andy cave
John Southworth ?/Aug/03 Solo O/S
ellis ?/Sep/02 DWS O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Solo O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Solo
steve taylor ??/1995 Solo O/S
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 19
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
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Low 5a
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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