26m.

Rockfax Description
6b, S1. A rite-of-passage route with its crux at the top. From the starting ledge traverse the break left for 8m to a small ledge then climb the first big groove diagonally leftwards to its finishing bulge. Leaving the big jug may take some will power. © Rockfax

FSA. Crispin Waddy 08/Sep/1986

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Hard water, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Dorset weekender, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, Dorset DWS progression

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UserDateNotes
Fiend 11 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: As with many so-called "essential ticks" it has several prominent characteristics of which enjoyment is not the main one. Hugely committing although the well-described move is mild....for 5c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As with many so-called "essential ticks" it has several prominent characteristics of which enjoyment is not the main one. Hugely committing although the well-described move is mild....for 5c.
Jus 22 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Waaay easier than the Conger. Jugs all the way until just before the top. Wonderful!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Waaay easier than the Conger. Jugs all the way until just before the top. Wonderful!
Smelly Fox 4 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Its an awsome plummet from the crux!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Its an awsome plummet from the crux!!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 25 Aug DWS β
Owen Diba 25 Aug DWS O/S
Pete Scott 2 Aug DWS O/S
treesrockice 6 Jul DWS rpt
Mike_Hayes 6 Jul DWS
with ben.meakin, John Nightingale
with ben.meakin, John Nightingale
Hidden 14 Sep, 2018 DWS rpt
Jake Young 25 Aug, 2018 DWS O/S
tom.wp6 25 Aug, 2018 DWS O/S Heroic laybacking and a spicy top. ***
Heroic laybacking and a spicy top. ***
Alex N-R 25 Aug, 2018 DWS β exciting down here
with sheffield utd
exciting down here
with sheffield utd
treesrockice 25 Aug, 2018 DWS O/S Mega!
Mega!
georgejl 25 Aug, 2018 DWS β Send train with the Sheffield scene. The crux is high but do able. Natural and cool line.
Send train with the Sheffield scene. The crux is high but do able. Natural and cool line.
harry_lewis 25 Aug, 2018 DWS
Hidden 24 Aug, 2018 DWS O/S
Rachael Ellis 23 Jul, 2018 DWS O/S A beauty
A beauty
Patrick Hill 23 Jul, 2018 DWS rpt
with DWS crew
with DWS crew
Hidden 23 Jul, 2018 -
Gus 23 Jul, 2018 Solo
Flavio 22 Jul, 2018 DWS O/S Not sure about all the comments about the beauty of the line, London Wall is a nice line! This was dirty and a bit scruffy but it climbs really well and quite exciting on a "meh" tide.
Not sure about all the comments about the beauty of the line, London Wall is a nice line! This was dirty and a bit scruffy but it climbs really well and quite exciting on a "meh" tide.
Ellis Bird 21 Jul, 2018 DWS O/S
Dandan 20 Jul, 2018 DWS O/S
with AJM
with AJM
AJM 20 Jul, 2018 DWS dnf Ran out of head juice and downclimbed
with Dandan
Ran out of head juice and downclimbed
with Dandan
Jwatson 22 Jun, 2018 DWS O/S
with Aussie Luke , harry_lewis, jonsey1995
with Aussie Luke , harry_lewis, jonsey1995
jonsey1995 22 Jun, 2018 DWS
with Jwatson
with Jwatson
Hidden ??, 2018 DWS O/S
Hidden 13 Aug, 2017 DWS β
brian watson 13 Aug, 2017 DWS O/S Mega!
with Dan Browne, John Rensten, Al Betts, Ed Babs
Mega!
with Dan Browne, John Rensten, Al Betts, Ed Babs
john rensten 13 Aug, 2017 DWS dnf silly boy, cruised past the huge jug, matched the crimp, stepped up and missed the side pull...took a terrific fall from the very top which was actually fine and a great start to a fantastic day
with Ed Babs
silly boy, cruised past the huge jug, matched the crimp, stepped up and missed the side pull...took a terrific fall from the very top which was actually fine and a great start to a fantastic day
with Ed Babs
Hidden 24 Jul, 2017 DWS O/S
Andrew Barker 23 Sep, 2016 DWS O/S Brilliant. Felt very committing on my own. A bit dirty at the top.
Brilliant. Felt very committing on my own. A bit dirty at the top.
quiffhanger 14 Aug, 2016 Solo rpt
i_a_coops 14 Aug, 2016 -
Hidden 13 Aug, 2016 DWS rpt
JendeHoxar 6 Aug, 2016 DWS β
with Ed F
with Ed F
Hidden 6 Aug, 2016 DWS O/S
hankyc 25 Jul, 2016 DWS O/S
stevoland 6 Sep, 2015 DWS β What a line!
What a line!
Gus 29 Aug, 2015 DWS
dswansonlow 29 Aug, 2015 DWS RP
will black 4 Jul, 2015 Solo β
AlexD 4 Jul, 2015 Solo rpt
Albachoss 4 Jul, 2015 DWS O/S Incredible line!
Incredible line!
Sophie Nunn 4 Jul, 2015 DWS dnf
feilx 4 Jul, 2015 DWS rpt
dswansonlow 4 Jul, 2015 DWS rpt
with Alex Banks
with Alex Banks
JCAshman ?Jul, 2015 DWS β
adam 24 21 Sep, 2014 Solo O/S Hot, chalkless ascent. The crux feels high!
Hot, chalkless ascent. The crux feels high!
Stuart Johnston 21 Sep, 2014 Solo O/S High crux adds to the spice.
with adam 24
High crux adds to the spice.
with adam 24
Cheese Monkey 21 Sep, 2014 Solo O/S Beautiful. Crux pulling on horrifficly sandy dirty holds was spicy.
with Charlie, Rich R
Beautiful. Crux pulling on horrifficly sandy dirty holds was spicy.
with Charlie, Rich R
oliver.ghill91 8 Sep, 2014 Solo O/S
with Mark C, Patrick Hill
with Mark C, Patrick Hill
Dohnny_Jawes 24 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
Hidden 24 Aug, 2014 Solo rpt
James Oswald 23 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S Good route but a scary, committing crux miles above the sea!
Good route but a scary, committing crux miles above the sea!
tim newton 23 Aug, 2014 DWS rpt
highrepute 23 Aug, 2014 Solo
Duncan Campbell 23 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S Whoa. Did on my own at the end of the day with a big sea. Very exciting! Topped out with eyes on stalks. I don't like DWS but this ranks as one of my best climbing experiences to date.
Whoa. Did on my own at the end of the day with a big sea. Very exciting! Topped out with eyes on stalks. I don't like DWS but this ranks as one of my best climbing experiences to date.
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 Solo β
BenNorman 23 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S Went too far left to finish and mantel led sloppy shit covered shelf. Exciting haha Cool feature
Went too far left to finish and mantel led sloppy shit covered shelf. Exciting haha Cool feature
morganator 23 Aug, 2014 Solo rpt Exciting at the end of the day!
with Dan Arkle
Exciting at the end of the day!
with Dan Arkle
Rachel Slater 23 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
theotherpetehill 27 Jul, 2014 Solo β
with Ross McKerchar
with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 27 Jul, 2014 Solo rpt
with theotherpetehill, Matt
with theotherpetehill, Matt
andy_pemberton 23 Jul, 2014 Solo It's quite high. How high does it have to get to be S2?!
It's quite high. How high does it have to get to be S2?!
BenL 20 Jul, 2014 Solo O/S
Patrick Hill 12 Jul, 2014 Solo O/S
AlexD 10 Jul, 2014 Solo O/S
with Matt, Ed Babs, Sophie Nunn
with Matt, Ed Babs, Sophie Nunn
Hidden 14 Jun, 2014 DWS O/S
hamer89 ?May, 2014 DWS O/S
Rupey ?Sep, 2013 DWS
Luxulyan 24 Aug, 2013 Solo O/S
quiffhanger 27 Jul, 2013 Solo rpt Trying to persuade Angus to follow me. He half-did the crux, got gripped & down-climbed the whole thing!
Trying to persuade Angus to follow me. He half-did the crux, got gripped & down-climbed the whole thing!
Oddjob 21 Jul, 2013 DWS O/S Hmm...Yeah crux on jugs is fine.....toping out on slopers covered in dust and dirt ....less pleasant.
Hmm...Yeah crux on jugs is fine.....toping out on slopers covered in dust and dirt ....less pleasant.
quiffhanger 21 Jul, 2013 Solo rpt Gutted I missed Matt's big splashdown following me. I love funky wall.
Gutted I missed Matt's big splashdown following me. I love funky wall.
jonleighton 21 Jul, 2013 Solo rpt
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 Solo
Boy 13 Jul, 2013 Solo O/S
with Emlyn James, Nathan Lee, Rhys Crabtree, Kim Tompson
with Emlyn James, Nathan Lee, Rhys Crabtree, Kim Tompson
nathanlee 13 Jul, 2013 Solo β glad kim and jon went first, crusty finish!
with DWS Crew
glad kim and jon went first, crusty finish!
with DWS Crew
feeko ??, 2013 -
Bristoldave 16 Sep, 2012 Solo O/S
quiffhanger 19 Aug, 2012 - Twice, second time to try and figure out some better beta at the top. Well shaky first time round. I'm still sure my first ascent was the easiest method. Just wish I could remember it.
Twice, second time to try and figure out some better beta at the top. Well shaky first time round. I'm still sure my first ascent was the easiest method. Just wish I could remember it.
jacobjacob 19 Aug, 2012 Solo rpt
Alex More 11 Aug, 2012 Solo O/S classic - for any dws fanatics I stumbled upon this piece of history about the route & FA from a UKC article by a guy called Toby, hope he doesn't mind ... One day I was down on a ledge sorting ropes whilst Crispin eyed possible lines around us. Then I noticed he was gone and - more puzzlingly - was not tied in. He traversed a long way leftwards above overhangs, vanished around a corner and eventually reappeared on the cliff top. Reunited later he talked through the physics of what he'd done: the cliff was steep and not that tall, the water was deep and there'd been no real danger. I listened but didn't comprehend. The route was Fathoms; years later I realised it was probably the earliest first ascent in Britain made intentionally in DWS style.
classic - for any dws fanatics I stumbled upon this piece of history about the route & FA from a UKC article by a guy called Toby, hope he doesn't mind ... One day I was down on a ledge sorting ropes whilst Crispin eyed possible lines around us. Then I noticed he was gone and - more puzzlingly - was not tied in. He traversed a long way leftwards above overhangs, vanished around a corner and eventually reappeared on the cliff top. Reunited later he talked through the physics of what he'd done: the cliff was steep and not that tall, the water was deep and there'd been no real danger. I listened but didn't comprehend. The route was Fathoms; years later I realised it was probably the earliest first ascent in Britain made intentionally in DWS style.
quiffhanger 1 Jun, 2012 Solo β Finally! Great as a weekend-kickoff late on Friday eve. Didn't disappoint.
Finally! Great as a weekend-kickoff late on Friday eve. Didn't disappoint.
jacobjlloyd 1 Jun, 2012 Solo rpt
mwatson ?Jun, 2012 Solo O/S
Matt Smith 2 Oct, 2011 DWS dnf One of the best lines on a route I've seen, too sustained for me though
One of the best lines on a route I've seen, too sustained for me though
nimajneb 2 Oct, 2011 DWS O/S
Misha 1 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with tonanf
with tonanf
tim newton 29 Aug, 2011 DWS O/S
jonleighton 6 Aug, 2011 Solo O/S
jacobjlloyd 6 Aug, 2011 Solo O/S Brilliant crux sequence at the top - i challenge you to climb this without smiling!
with Joe Kinsella, Jon Leighton, Harry Martin
Brilliant crux sequence at the top - i challenge you to climb this without smiling!
with Joe Kinsella, Jon Leighton, Harry Martin
tt85 3 Aug, 2011 Solo β
Hidden 24 Jul, 2011 DWS O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 2011 Solo O/S
La Mont 13 Jul, 2011 -
feilx 13 Jul, 2011 Solo rpt
sarpedon 2 Jul, 2011 Solo rpt
dannyboy83 26 Jun, 2011 DWS O/S
feilx 26 Jun, 2011 Solo rpt
dswansonlow 4 Jun, 2011 DWS β
feilx 26 May, 2011 Solo rpt
funsized 25 May, 2011 Solo RP
Sophie Nunn 25 May, 2011 Solo O/S
tom106 25 May, 2011 Solo β
John Tanner 25 May, 2011 Solo β
sarpedon 25 May, 2011 Solo O/S
loz901 25 May, 2011 Solo β
La Mont 21 May, 2011 -
funsized 18 May, 2011 Solo dnf biggest DWS fall yet!
with feilx
biggest DWS fall yet!
with feilx
feilx 18 May, 2011 Solo rpt
morganator 28 Aug, 2010 Solo O/S
with Andy Benson
with Andy Benson
Mike Goldthorp 16 Aug, 2010 Solo O/S What a peach! Great climbing on the strange varnished fishermans ledge rock, about f6a+/b
What a peach! Great climbing on the strange varnished fishermans ledge rock, about f6a+/b
Alex Mason 16 Aug, 2010 Solo O/S Wicked beautiful line. The top crux is doable a few different ways. Didnt really think about the fall potential when there.
Wicked beautiful line. The top crux is doable a few different ways. Didnt really think about the fall potential when there.
jacobjacob 8 Aug, 2010 Solo O/S great fun, did it in a line of about 8 people :)
great fun, did it in a line of about 8 people :)
felixthelion 8 Aug, 2010 Solo O/S Harder than the conger
Harder than the conger
littleluke ?Aug, 2010 Solo O/S
Ed Babs 10 Jul, 2010 DWS G/U splash splash 01/07/09. got it first try today
with Harry
splash splash 01/07/09. got it first try today
with Harry
Adam Booth 29 Jun, 2010 Solo β Thank god my bro was at the top to give me the beta!
Thank god my bro was at the top to give me the beta!
Ed Booth 29 Jun, 2010 Solo O/S found this scary!
found this scary!
al99 26 Jun, 2010 DWS O/S
with colesy
with colesy
feilx 26 Jun, 2010 Solo rpt
feilx 12 Jun, 2010 Solo rpt
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 Solo
dan gibson 31 Aug, 2009 Solo rpt
Jus 4 Jul, 2009 Solo rpt
Hidden 20 Jun, 2009 Solo O/S
gnc760 4 Jun, 2009 Solo O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2009 DWS
feilx 25 Apr, 2009 Solo rpt
Dohnny_Jawes 23 Aug, 2008 Solo β DWS
DWS
dan gibson 23 Aug, 2008 Solo O/S
AJ007 23 Aug, 2008 DWS β
Castleclimber 1 Sep, 2007 Solo O/S Felt very lonely at the crux rockover
with Justin
Felt very lonely at the crux rockover
with Justin
Jus ?Sep, 2007 Solo
Ram MkiV 24 Aug, 2007 Solo O/S The rockover crux felt very lonely and very high with no one else around apart from Dan probably snoozing atop the crag....
with Dan
The rockover crux felt very lonely and very high with no one else around apart from Dan probably snoozing atop the crag....
with Dan
Hidden ?Aug, 2007 Solo O/S
Brown 16 Jul, 2007 Solo O/S
with Alex
with Alex
Hidden ?Aug, 2006 Solo O/S
derico ?Aug, 2006 Solo β
with Andy
with Andy
feilx 2 Jul, 2006 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 Solo O/S
feeko ??, 2006 -
Mark Stevenson 20 Aug, 2005 Solo O/S
Mark Riley ?Aug, 2005 Solo β DWS
DWS
bigie bob ?Aug, 2005 Solo O/S
Jane Weir ?Aug, 2005 DWS O/S
Smelly Fox 8 Aug, 2004 Solo dnf Jumped off from the big jug.
Jumped off from the big jug.
Hidden 2 Aug, 2003 DWS
Greg Cunningham ?Aug, 2003 DWS β
with andy cave
with andy cave
John Southworth ?Aug, 2003 Solo O/S
ellis ?Sep, 2002 DWS O/S
Hidden ??, 2001 Solo O/S
Hidden 30 Sep, 2000 DWS O/S
Marti999 ??, 2000 Solo
steve taylor ??, 1995 Solo O/S
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 19
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Soloed
DWS
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set