50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Stupendous wall climbing up the best line on the face. The climbing is hard, and high in the grade, but the gear is very good on the hardest sections. Start as for Tudor Rose at the right-hand end of the sea cave overhangs.
1) 6a, 25m. Follow Tudor Rose to the good, small rest ledge on its traverse and then climb up to a narrow overhang. Move up to the groove above and make a very hard move to enter it and exit right to a good hold. Climb the short wall above to the fault-line and a hanging belay on nuts, cams and a thread.
2) 6a, 25m. From the fault-line, move up right for 5m and then step left to a foot-ledge. Move up to the base of the white wall, then climb thin breaks and flakes, past twin pegs, to another peg, and a final, long move to a good hold just below a long ledge. Stand on the ledge, and traverse rightwards to a blocky corner. Climb this with care to the top. Belay on fence posts. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 08/Jan/1983

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West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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UserDateNotes
feilx 11 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: i just reached the fence posts with a 50m rope
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i just reached the fence posts with a 50m rope
matt perks 26 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: You can do the whole lot in one pitch and still reach the fencepost with 55m ropes (50m will probably just make it too).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You can do the whole lot in one pitch and still reach the fencepost with 55m ropes (50m will probably just make it too).
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 17 Feb 2nd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 17 Feb Lead O/S Probably not a wise choice for the first trad route of the year, was so nearly off on pitch two. Definitely the deepest I've had to dig on any trad route, I daresay some later season technique may have helped though!
Probably not a wise choice for the first trad route of the year, was so nearly off on pitch two. Definitely the deepest I've had to dig on any trad route, I daresay some later season technique may have helped though!
marcduhig 8 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
with pep
with pep
treesrockice 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S P1 & P2 O/S (belayed on higher the left as the thread belay is poor) top pitch by far the better! Well impressed with Callan getting the bottom pitch clean on 2nd and the top with only 2-3 falls given he'd done his first HVS that morning.
P1 & P2 O/S (belayed on higher the left as the thread belay is poor) top pitch by far the better! Well impressed with Callan getting the bottom pitch clean on 2nd and the top with only 2-3 falls given he'd done his first HVS that morning.
manwithacam 24 Feb, 2017 AltLd Great to get on this and find it reasonable. Great rouute, great end to a fantastic weeks climbing.
with Mark Grist
Great to get on this and find it reasonable. Great rouute, great end to a fantastic weeks climbing.
with Mark Grist
The Grist 24 Feb, 2017 AltLd G/U Fantastic route. Annoyingly slipped off the crux of pitch one. I lowered to the ground then did it clean ground up. As always it felt easy the second time. Dan then cruised pitch two. I would recommend leading it in one. It is a great line. The belay is a little artificial.
with Dan Metcalfe
Fantastic route. Annoyingly slipped off the crux of pitch one. I lowered to the ground then did it clean ground up. As always it felt easy the second time. Dan then cruised pitch two. I would recommend leading it in one. It is a great line. The belay is a little artificial.
with Dan Metcalfe
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Ed F
with Ed F
Hidden 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Sep, 2013 2nd dog
Sophie Nunn 19 Aug, 2013 AltLd rpt Led 1st pitch
Led 1st pitch
Luxulyan 19 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
quiffhanger 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Thought I was on Tudor Rose! First crux felt pretty nails for 5b :) In 1 pitch - probably safer for a softer fall onto the pegs. They looked ok but not bomber. Top wall would be awesome/scary e4 without them.
Thought I was on Tudor Rose! First crux felt pretty nails for 5b :) In 1 pitch - probably safer for a softer fall onto the pegs. They looked ok but not bomber. Top wall would be awesome/scary e4 without them.
jacobjlloyd 21 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S In a single pitch. Really good!! No worries at E3 even without the pegs I expect. The face was pretty hyped up, but it is actually that fun! Either this is overgraded or I'm getting stronger, because I didn't find any 6a moves on the top face. The lower crux felt harder?! Spectacular outing. Really memorable.
with Jenni
In a single pitch. Really good!! No worries at E3 even without the pegs I expect. The face was pretty hyped up, but it is actually that fun! Either this is overgraded or I'm getting stronger, because I didn't find any 6a moves on the top face. The lower crux felt harder?! Spectacular outing. Really memorable.
with Jenni
Hidden 21 Jan, 2012 2nd dog
Sophie Nunn 4 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
Toby Dunn 4 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Managed to get in enough kit to make it safe assuming the pegs were all worthless (they're ok); but agree would feel E4 without them.
with Sophie Nunn
Managed to get in enough kit to make it safe assuming the pegs were all worthless (they're ok); but agree would feel E4 without them.
with Sophie Nunn
Hidden 22 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
Mike Goldthorp 13 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead P1. Sweet little crux through the grooved bulge, but all quite steady apart from that. 2nd pitch is quality too!
Lead P1. Sweet little crux through the grooved bulge, but all quite steady apart from that. 2nd pitch is quality too!
Alex Mason 13 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P2. Pitch one was quite sandy/loose (is this expected at swanage?). Pitch two was slighty better, but will be E4 without pegs.
Led P2. Pitch one was quite sandy/loose (is this expected at swanage?). Pitch two was slighty better, but will be E4 without pegs.
pezzerrr 8 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S In one big pitch. Pegs not great.
In one big pitch. Pegs not great.
Ed Babs 7 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S 3 pegs in the headwall still in reasonable nick. Great climbing on both pitches.
with IainAM
3 pegs in the headwall still in reasonable nick. Great climbing on both pitches.
with IainAM
Hidden 7 Aug, 2010 2nd β
Hidden 12 Sep, 2009 Lead β
Hidden 6 Sep, 2009 Lead dnf
Marti999 22 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
dan gibson 2 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
with anna barnes
tonanf ?Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Pep
with Pep
Hidden 4 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
feilx 20 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S done in 1 pitch
done in 1 pitch
Hidden 20 Aug, 2006 2nd
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Ian Jones ?Sep, 2005 2nd O/S Excellent and fingery. Reliant on pegs for protection.
with Andy Reeve
Excellent and fingery. Reliant on pegs for protection.
with Andy Reeve
ellis ?Aug, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Bull
with Duncan Bull
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?Aug, 1991 AltLd
with mike robertson
with mike robertson
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 19
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set