45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great top pitch that heads up the leaning white headwall at its highest point. Start on the huge boulders right of the sea cave.
1) 5a, 20m. As for Oceanid.
2) 6a, 24m. Move diagonally left, then back rightwards above an overhang to a small ledge and a peg. Follow the tapering crack above, past a large, wedged cornflake, to fingery moves that gain the final, slightly broken wall. Belay on fence posts. The crack has lots of pegs insitu, however some of them have very narrow eyes, so some narrow-nosed karabiners will be found useful to clip them. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Snell, Keith Knight (aided). FFA. Steve Monks, Steve Findlay 28.11.81. 21/Feb/1976

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Swanage wild pumpfests, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
TonyM 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Had a similar experience to Matt yesterday. Never 6a, just very sustained at 5c. Wish I'd known about the peg eyes - they didn't like my modern lightwt hot forged krabs much! Top out is absolutely fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Had a similar experience to Matt yesterday. Never 6a, just very sustained at 5c. Wish I'd known about the peg eyes - they didn't like my modern lightwt hot forged krabs much! Top out is absolutely fine.
matt perks 22 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I think the hard bit on the second pitch is only 5c but had to rest anyway because by the time I got there I was pumped stupid. Comment about small peg eyes is accurate, though they're not ridiculously small. There are a couple of loose flakes on this pitch but nothing to worry about. The top-out is not bad for Swanage - requires care but it's not bad. First pitch is a bit friable but there is gear and it's not hard. Very good overall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think the hard bit on the second pitch is only 5c but had to rest anyway because by the time I got there I was pumped stupid. Comment about small peg eyes is accurate, though they're not ridiculously small. There are a couple of loose flakes on this pitch but nothing to worry about. The top-out is not bad for Swanage - requires care but it's not bad. First pitch is a bit friable but there is gear and it's not hard. Very good overall.
doylo 29 Aug, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Sandbag for 5c! Otherwise ok. Ace top pitch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sandbag for 5c! Otherwise ok. Ace top pitch!
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 21 Oct, 2018 -
Tom Livingstone 16 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 16 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S Lead easy approach pitch.
Lead easy approach pitch.
Hidden 25 Aug, 2018 2nd dog
Flavio 14 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 14 Oct, 2017 2nd rpt
with Flavio
with Flavio
AlexHewitt90 29 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
NuclearNev ??, 2017 -
NuclearNev ??, 2017 -
Ramon Marin 22 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S I found this really hard for some reason, i really had to try and only saved from falling by some vicious jamming. Amazing!
with Dan Gibson
I found this really hard for some reason, i really had to try and only saved from falling by some vicious jamming. Amazing!
with Dan Gibson
Jack Geldard ?Sep, 2016 AltLd
Nick Russell 21 Aug, 2016 AltLd Led the second pitch. Good, pumpy climbing. Pegs are pretty suspect but can be backed up. Had a bit of a foot-free moment on the crux, but held it :) I'd give it low 6a today, but conditions could have been better (or worse)
with TonyB
Led the second pitch. Good, pumpy climbing. Pegs are pretty suspect but can be backed up. Had a bit of a foot-free moment on the crux, but held it :) I'd give it low 6a today, but conditions could have been better (or worse)
with TonyB
JendeHoxar 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Ed F
with Ed F
Hidden 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd dog
eel ??, 2016 2nd O/S
with Caff, Jack
with Caff, Jack
hamer89 ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
julesmckim 31 Oct, 2014 AltLd Awesome top pitch. Struggled on it and rested several times. Top section was confusing, think I needed to step right to some finger jams, but had to unclip a peg on the left. Was all over the place as a result. Very loose top out - beware!
with Rob Smart
Awesome top pitch. Struggled on it and rested several times. Top section was confusing, think I needed to step right to some finger jams, but had to unclip a peg on the left. Was all over the place as a result. Very loose top out - beware!
with Rob Smart
Luxulyan 19 Aug, 2013 TR
Sophie Nunn 19 Aug, 2013 TR Top roped second pitch clean
Top roped second pitch clean
Ellis Bird ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Aug, 2013 Lead
with Mal Scott
with Mal Scott
ianto ??, 2013 -
debbie roberts 4 Oct, 2012 2nd
Marti999 4 Oct, 2012 Lead dog
Ed Babs 30 Sep, 2012 Lead RP At last! Fourth time lucky. Quite hard. Spectre krabs fine for pegs.
with AlexD
At last! Fourth time lucky. Quite hard. Spectre krabs fine for pegs.
with AlexD
AlexD 30 Aug, 2012 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
AlexD 21 Aug, 2012 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
KRB 1 Aug, 2012 Lead A really disappointing effort on this. Totally underestimated my weediness from weeks of disjointed climbing during the recent monsoon and ran out of strength and quick-draws below the top. Took a rest to recover my arms and to sort out my gear before finishing in very unsatisactory style. A fantastic route and brilliant setting but just a pity I didn't leave it for another day!
with Oliver Bridges
A really disappointing effort on this. Totally underestimated my weediness from weeks of disjointed climbing during the recent monsoon and ran out of strength and quick-draws below the top. Took a rest to recover my arms and to sort out my gear before finishing in very unsatisactory style. A fantastic route and brilliant setting but just a pity I didn't leave it for another day!
with Oliver Bridges
pezzerrr 22 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S Pegs ok, and back up-able.
Pegs ok, and back up-able.
Sophie Nunn 4 Oct, 2011 2nd dog
Toby Dunn 4 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Awesome, though i thought that facedancin' was better. Fine to do in one pitch, but take a lot of draws. Take care with the top!
with Sophie Nunn
Awesome, though i thought that facedancin' was better. Fine to do in one pitch, but take a lot of draws. Take care with the top!
with Sophie Nunn
Hidden 22 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 13 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Surely the E3 vote is a joke, or has it lost holds. Felt hard for E4, some big blind moves near the top. Good butch climbing with some suspect rock.
Surely the E3 vote is a joke, or has it lost holds. Felt hard for E4, some big blind moves near the top. Good butch climbing with some suspect rock.
dan gibson 2 Aug, 2009 Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 1 Aug, 2009 AltLd
feilx 31 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S Awesome route. Didn't clip any of the pegs on p2 mainly because i only had one quick draw left but there is good gear directly before and after the crux. I'd read comments hear, so i was surprised to find the crux felt every bit of 6a, i'll blame cold fingers but it could equally have been down to a bad sequence.
Awesome route. Didn't clip any of the pegs on p2 mainly because i only had one quick draw left but there is good gear directly before and after the crux. I'd read comments hear, so i was surprised to find the crux felt every bit of 6a, i'll blame cold fingers but it could equally have been down to a bad sequence.
TiffTiff 31 Jan, 2009 2nd dog
with feilx
with feilx
Hidden 28 Sep, 2008 Lead
tonanf ?Aug, 2007 AltLd dog i lead 1st pitch clean, pep led second, i fell crux of second, hard
with Pep
i lead 1st pitch clean, pep led second, i fell crux of second, hard
with Pep
Hidden ?Oct, 2006 Lead
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead dog
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead dog
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Roget 1 Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Hidden ??, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1995 Lead dog
Hidden 12 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??, 1994 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 31 Aug, 1992 AltLd
with keefe
with keefe
keefe 31 Aug, 1992 AltLd O/S
steve taylor ?Aug, 1992 Lead dog
with Rich Brookes
with Rich Brookes
Nigel Coe ??, 1990 - Approx date
with Tim Dunsby, Ray Mardon
Approx date
with Tim Dunsby, Ray Mardon
DDDD ??, 1988 Lead O/S Very good
with Richard Newey
Very good
with Richard Newey
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
barny ??, 1980 2nd dog I have to admit I, err, encouraged Chris to lead me up this monster, but he wasn't exactly reluctant and cruised up it. I had to have a tight rope on the top section due to wimpy forearms.
with Chris Massey
I have to admit I, err, encouraged Chris to lead me up this monster, but he wasn't exactly reluctant and cruised up it. I had to have a tight rope on the top section due to wimpy forearms.
with Chris Massey
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 18
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set