45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great top pitch that heads up the leaning white headwall at its highest point. Start on the huge boulders right of the sea cave.
1) 5a, 20m. As for Oceanid.
2) 6a, 24m. Move diagonally left, then back rightwards above an overhang to a small ledge and a peg. Follow the tapering crack above, past a large, wedged cornflake, to fingery moves that gain the final, slightly broken wall. Belay on fence posts. The crack has lots of pegs insitu, however some of them have very narrow eyes, so some narrow-nosed karabiners will be found useful to clip them. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Snell, Keith Knight 21.2.76 (aided). FFA. Steve Monks, Steve Findlay 28.11.81. 21/Feb/1976

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Swanage wild pumpfests, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Flavio 14/Oct/17 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 14/Oct/17 2nd rpt
with Flavio
AlexHewitt90 29/Jul/17 2nd O/S
NuclearNev ??/2017 -
NuclearNev ??/2017 -
Ramon Marin 22/Sep/16 Lead O/S

I found this really hard for some reason, i really had to try and only saved from falling by some vicious jamming. Amazing!

with Dan Gibson
Jack Geldard ?/Sep/16 AltLd
Nick Russell 21/Aug/16 AltLd

Led the second pitch. Good, pumpy climbing. Pegs are pretty suspect but can be backed up. Had a bit of a foot-free moment on the crux, but held it :) I'd give it low 6a today, but conditions could have been better (or worse)

with Tony
JendeHoxar 05/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 05/Aug/16 AltLd dog
eel ??/2016 2nd O/S
with Caff, Jack
ian bryant ??/2015 -
julesmckim 31/Oct/14 AltLd

Awesome top pitch. Struggled on it and rested several times. Top section was confusing, think I needed to step right to some finger jams, but had to unclip a peg on the left. Was all over the place as a result. Very loose top out - beware!

with Rob Smart
Luxulyan 19/Aug/13 TR
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 19/Aug/13 TR

Top roped second pitch clean

with Richard
Ellis Bird ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Aug/13 Lead
with Mal Scott
ianto ??/2013 -
debbie roberts 04/Oct/12 2nd
Marti999 04/Oct/12 Lead dog
with Debbie
Ed Babs 30/Sep/12 Lead RP

At last! Fourth time lucky. Quite hard. Spectre krabs fine for pegs.

with AlexD
AlexD 30/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Ed
AlexD 21/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Ed
KRB 01/Aug/12 Lead

A really disappointing effort on this. Totally underestimated my weediness from weeks of disjointed climbing during the recent monsoon and ran out of strength and quick-draws below the top. Took a rest to recover my arms and to sort out my gear before finishing in very unsatisactory style. A fantastic route and brilliant setting but just a pity I didn't leave it for another day!

with Oliver Bridges
pezzerrr 22/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Pegs ok, and back up-able.

Sophie Nunn 04/Oct/11 2nd dog
with Toby
Toby Dunn 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Awesome, though i thought that facedancin' was better. Fine to do in one pitch, but take a lot of draws. Take care with the top!

with Sophie Nunn
Hidden 22/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Surely the E3 vote is a joke, or has it lost holds. Felt hard for E4, some big blind moves near the top. Good butch climbing with some suspect rock.

with Mikey G
dan gibson 02/Aug/09 Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 01/Aug/09 AltLd
feilx 31/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Awesome route. Didn't clip any of the pegs on p2 mainly because i only had one quick draw left but there is good gear directly before and after the crux. I'd read comments hear, so i was surprised to find the crux felt every bit of 6a, i'll blame cold fingers but it could equally have been down to a bad sequence.

with Tiff
TiffTiff 31/Jan/09 2nd dog
with Felix
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead
tonanf ?/Aug/07 AltLd dog

i lead 1st pitch clean, pep led second, i fell crux of second, hard

with Pep
Hidden ?/Oct/06 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead dog
Tim M ??/2000 Lead dog
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Roget 01/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/95 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/1994 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 31/Aug/92 AltLd
with keefe
keefe 31/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
steve taylor ?/Aug/92 Lead dog
with Rich Brookes
Nigel Coe ??/1990 -

Approx date

with Tim Dunsby, Ray Mardon
DDDD ??/1988 Lead O/S

Very good

with Richard Newey
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
barny ??/1980 2nd dog

I have to admit I, err, encouraged Chris to lead me up this monster, but he wasn't exactly reluctant and cruised up it. I had to have a tight rope on the top section due to wimpy forearms.

with Chris Massey
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High 6b
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High 5c
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