40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An impressive climb for the grade that has an excellent first pitch, but finishes on some poor rock, requiring care.
1) 4b, 25m. The large corner needs some big gear. At the fault-line move left to a large ledge and belay.
2) 4a, 17m. The wall and groove above and to the right of the corner is steady but has some loose blocks. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Swanage A-Z, SW Climbs - Swanage.

rd20 15/Oct AltLd O/S

RD P2, Lizz P2

with Peri, Lizz P
Chris Sansum 23/Sep AltLd O/S

Ewan P1, Chris P2

with Ewan Whitmey
jennysknight 11/Aug 2nd
with Kane
Whipinator 11/Aug Lead O/S
with Jenny
pelvoux 06/Aug Lead O/S
takaczapka 06/Aug Lead O/S
with Ned
george327 16/Jul AltLd O/S

First pitch was great. Second pitch extremely loose rocks.

with Sam Davies
Bob M 16/Apr AltLd
Longsufferingropeholder 14/Apr AltLd
with C May
C May 14/Apr AltLd O/S

Lead P2

with Tim
Norman_P_W 02/Apr AltLd rpt
mike.moss 11/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
Kirill 11/Dec/16 2nd
Fatclimber 30/Oct/16 AltLd rpt


Francois R 30/Oct/16 Lead

In 1 pitch.

with Jason
Deako 30/Oct/16 AltLd
mikeyjbs 10/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Idoia
matteo_8 26/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
AJM 21/Aug/16 Lead rpt
simibrown 13/Aug/16 AltLd
with tej, andre
dantheoptimist 13/Aug/16 AltLd
bsparky 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Great first pitch that looks higher grade than it actually is. Top pitch is the loosest I've come across in Swanage and took away from the experience..

with Daniel Peters, Simon Middleton
TimKnight 07/May/16 AltLd O/S

First pitch is good 'Swanage VS'; P2 not as bad as guide suggests and worth it for P1

with Dave Marshall
Geoffers 07/May/16 AltLd rpt
with Tim
Julian Prieto 24/Apr/16 AltLd rpt

Led P2

martinov 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Marti and Lucho

jeffers696 12/Sep/15 2nd
with Trace Sutton, Max Streeton
Trace ?/Sep/15 Lead

Lead both pitches

mattprince 21/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Jon Wilson
Bob M 30/Jun/15 AltLd
with Ket
MontyH 20/Jun/15 Lead
with Paul Milton
Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/15 2nd rpt
petrch 29/Nov/14 AltLd

Led P1

with Maarten Youngman
mikehenesy 21/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Seconded Sonia. Bugger me that's stiff for a VS, well done girl! Good though.

with Sonia
sonic46 21/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Great first pitch

with Mike H
Hidden 15/Aug/14 Lead
dynodean 18/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Paul lead P1, P2 loose but easy

with steve, Paul
Hidden 16/Jul/14 AltLd
Julian Prieto 22/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Led P2

cliffy 22/Jun/14 AltLd
Jeromecooper 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Glad I climbed P1 rather then P2!

with Kelly Evans
Dave Thompson 03/Jun/14 AltLd
with Mark Lee
Hidden 19/May/14 AltLd rpt
Thunderthighsontheloose 04/May/14 2nd O/S
brian watson 03/May/14 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost
MontyH 03/May/14 AltLd rpt
with Paul Milton
CurlyStevo 11/Jan/14 Lead

Fairly slick lead before sunset

with clipskipper
mattc 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
CurlyStevo ?/Nov/13 Lead

Lead as one pitch, I have to agree with other voters there is a 4c move on this route, worth VS whatever though as its a quite runout here and there (can be tamed to some degree by huge cams I imagine) and fairly sustained in places. I didn't find it as easy as some of the other swanage VS routes and I like cracks.

with MattC
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead O/S
francois 07/Sep/13 2nd
with Chawn
Kirill 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

with Stevo
CurlyStevo ?/Jun/13 AltLd

Lead pitch 1

Hidden ??/2013 -
Sam Husband 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch which was very nice, looked harder from the bottom. Second pitch is just a formality really.

with Ed
Stroppy 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 a.k.a. the joke, not worth leading P2. P1 was really good though, impressive and fun.

tobydunford 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Dave Mahon ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

P1 is Stiff, P2 is rubbish and loose.

with Brian Mead
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 22/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Fatclimber 25/Feb/12 Lead dog

Had to sit on gear at the crux.

with Dean Chapman
louby 28/Jan/12 AltLd
chris_B 28/Jan/12 AltLd
Ian JL ??/2012 -
Hidden 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/11 AltLd
MDR61 06/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P1, Rich pitch 2 which was a lot more solid than I expected (and a lot better than some top outs on boulder ruckle !)

with Rich
eroica64 24/Sep/11 AltLd dog

Found crux hard - tight rope. Led top (4a) pitch.

with Peter Roberts
BelayBunney 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Mike Kendon, Lizzie
MontyH 06/Jul/11 Lead
with pete frost
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
brian watson 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Alan, Brian
Monkey_Alan 19/Jun/11 2nd rpt
matt.jj 22/May/11 2nd O/S

Awesome route - loved it all the way, and worth some stars. Great climb for the grade.

Hidden 03/Apr/11 AltLd
AlexD 03/Apr/11 AltLd

Had to retreat from first pitch as had no big gear with me and couldn't reach the higher crack or overlap!

with Scott
Ali.B ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 10/Mar/11 AltLd rpt

Bit greasy and felt harder than I remember, led the easy second pitch today.

with Jez
jezb1 10/Mar/11 AltLd

Lead P1. Greasy on the crux meaning I fannyed about for a bit but did it clean. Top pitch not too loose...

Hidden 19/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Ceridwen ??/2011 Lead O/S
uncontrollable 18/Sep/10 AltLd rpt

lead first pitch, Mark second pitch

with Mark J
Hidden 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
riddle 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Stunning first pitch

with Yasmina
Andre Clarke 25/Jul/10 Lead

Excellent first pitch. 2nd pitch very lose but not too freaky

gibsond 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
risby 24/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Tightsgirl 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with DAJ, Clare Francis
Hidden 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Bob M 06/Apr/10 AltLd
Hidden 18/Mar/10 Lead
eroica64 18/Oct/09 2nd

Great first pitch. Loose second but it goes okay. Nice new fence posts to belay on.

silhouette 15/Oct/09 2nd
with tonanf
Monkey_Alan 04/Oct/09 AltLd rpt

Led 2nd pitch.

Julian Prieto 04/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch

The Ivanator 04/Oct/09 AltLd rpt

I led P1.

with Stewart
The Ivanator 25/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1, great climb although gear is well spaced, a few largish Cams help a bunch.

with Sean
Perryman 25/Aug/09 AltLd
martin one 10/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with patrick
Indy Nile 06/Aug/09 AltLd rpt

p1 Frodo, p2 moi

uncontrollable 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1

with Des
Monkey_Alan 18/Jul/09 AltLd rpt

Lead 1st pitch. Gained the belay ledge very inelegantly.

Indy Nile 18/Jul/09 AltLd rpt

P1 Alan, P2 me. started up left for second pitch, chucking holds off left, right and centre, route looked like it could come down any minute, so went right into the corner to finish.

Different Steve 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Clare
Indy Nile 31/May/09 AltLd

Leon did 1st pitch but didn't quite get the crux, so I finished 1st pitch. Leon followed through to finish

leonjones 31/May/09 AltLd
MontyH 30/May/09 Lead
with pete frost
mattkemp70 ?/May/09 AltLd
with Westy
Graham Westbrook ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
mark89 22/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Alex More ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with bob
duncan 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 24/Aug/08 2nd
mikehenesy 29/Jul/08 AltLd
with Chris Lodge
PilarMartinez 12/Jul/08 Lead β
with AlisVet
Andy Chubb 30/May/08 Lead
with Gideon Castro
MontyH 10/May/08 Lead

good route, done it a few times though

with pete frost
clipskipper 21/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

Book says big gear for the crack, but it needs to be huge! Unprotected for the first 30 feet otherwise. Crux is thoughtful but the gear is pretty good by then and the holds positive. Top out loose and no stakes.

with Kevin Knight
kevinknights 21/Oct/07 AltLd dog

muffed first pitch crux. 2nd pitch easy

with Lee
cliffy 23/Sep/07 AltLd
with Leon Jones, Andrew Combes
leonjones 23/Sep/07 2nd
Tom Gadsden 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Kit
Kit Gillibrand 11/Aug/07 2nd O/S

Started off leading, but couldn't make the first crux. Lame.

Hidden 05/Aug/07 AltLd dog
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
MontyH 16/May/07 AltLd rpt

Lee's first time down, no problem for him.

with brian and lee
Hidden 16/May/07 2nd
Hidden 16/May/07 2nd
MontyH 04/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
Bob M 21/Jan/07 AltLd
with Stewart Walker
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 TR O/S
Bob M 05/Nov/06 AltLd
with Robert Floyd, Paul Rigg
MontyH 14/Oct/06 Lead rpt

climbed both pitches

with Mandy and Paul
MontyH 08/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

Good first pitch, which I climbed poorly.

with Brian
Different Steve 23/Sep/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Apr/06 AltLd
Bob M 30/Apr/06 AltLd
Bob M 11/May/05 AltLd
Bob M 06/Mar/05 -
with Jeff Yaldren, Scott Titt
Hidden 06/Mar/05 -
lazza ?/Oct/04 AltLd
with scott
Bob M 29/Jul/04 AltLd
with Steve Turner
Bob M 09/May/04 Lead
with Stewart Walker
Jon Greengrass ??/2004 -
with Paul
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 13/Sep/03 AltLd

On Climbers' Club meet

with Pete Finclaire
Bob M 03/May/03 Lead
with Chris Bristow
Bob M 08/Mar/03 AltLd
with Stewart Walker
Bob M 02/Feb/03 Lead
with Paul Crowsley, Julian Taylor
Norman_P_W 19/Jan/03 AltLd
with Bob M
Bob M 19/Jan/03 AltLd
Hidden 03/Oct/01 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/01 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/00 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Bob M 31/Oct/99 -
with Jill Stevens, Stewart Walker
Bob M 21/May/99 AltLd
with Jill Stevens
CMacD ??/1999 -
Bob M 15/Nov/98 Lead
with Chris Bristow
Bob M 14/Jun/98 Lead
with Cemal Uman
Bob M 10/May/98 Lead
with Jim Jeffs
Bob M ?/Feb/98 -
with Jill Stevens
pezzerrr ??/1996 Lead O/S
colin milton 26/Aug/95 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden ??/1995 -
Geoffers ??/1995 AltLd O/S
with Bean
sdht ??/1993 -
Marti999 ?/Sep/92 AltLd
with kev
MoWalker3 29/Jun/92 -
kp64zl ?/Dec/91 Lead
with Giles
rogerskews 21/Sep/91 AltLd
with Martin Coward
Mark Kemball 08/Aug/91 2nd
with Alison Dorey
Hidden 18/Dec/88 Lead
Dave Musgrove 06/Mar/88 AltLd
with David
Nigel Coe ?/Dec/86 -
Hidden ?/Dec/86 -
RichardMc 22/Jun/86 Lead
with Chris Owens
ill_bill ?/May/86 AltLd
Russell Lovett 19/May/84 Lead O/S
with Tim Freeman
Hidden 09/Nov/80 2nd
Chris Terrey ?/May/80 Lead
with Bob Gookey
Nigel Coe 14/Oct/79 Lead
with Richard Christianson
Falko 31/Oct/77 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
Falko 30/Oct/77 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
Martin Bennett 13/Apr/72 -
with Dick Leak, RA
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 37
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set