Rockfax Description
A direct corner and crack climb starting as for Tensor II. Follow a corner past a spike and peg to pass a big roof on the right. A chimney allows access to the fault-line and a huge ledge (possible belay). Climb the continuation crack to the top. A helmet jam has been used to great effect by more than one team on this route. © Rockfax

FA. A.Webster, D.Hadlum 27.3.67 27/Mar/1967

Ticklists: Ultimate HVS ticklist, Memorable Climbs.

jobangles 17/Dec/17 2nd dog

Climbed in rain with heavy pack. Couldn't figure out the roof crux move and after getting pumped out of my mind had to weight the rope to move out onto the face. Negotiating the chimney with a bag on was interesting!

with Jan
Hidden 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
RangerMcFreindly 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Good climb, used the helmet jam for the brief heave hoe into the chimney!

bede.west 12/Aug/17 2nd rpt
with Callan
katiep 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Went full on for the head jam, took a two goes to figure out the move and then committed.

with Paddy, Gemma
mrstarwarsman 06/Aug/17 2nd
with Gemma P, Katie P
gem_stone12 06/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Munch 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Horton 10/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Exciting move. Not sure I used a head jam but all kinds of body parts helped slide me into the chimney after telling myself falling was not an option. Lost a foot on the loose top out but managed to catch it (scarier than the crux!)

with Shane
islandlynx 10/Jun/17 2nd
with Horton
Elliot King LC&CC 31/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Tony Flint
AngelaC 14/May/17 2nd

We both used head 'levering' to wriggle up into standing position within the chimney - unique move!

Carl 19/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Great fun, got myself a little wedged moving out through the roof

with Luke vF
lukevf 19/Mar/17 2nd O/S
with CarlWH
Adam Hill 04/Feb/17 Lead
with Simon
Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
Ellis Bird ??/2017 AltLd O/S
Francois R 29/Oct/16 Lead
with Jason
Kirill 08/Oct/16 Lead
with EeFu
EeFu 08/Oct/16 2nd
khalidq 09/Sep/16 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Sep/16 2nd O/S
AJM 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead dnf
ssutton 13/Aug/16 TR

Andrew got some air time...gear retrieval

with Andrew
tim.fairhall 20/Jul/16 2nd O/S

In 1 pitch

with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Tricky little move up into the corner, no heed jam but did grunt a bit!

jcooper8 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
DanC1985 08/May/16 Lead O/S
with Claire, Sarah
Leelogs 07/May/16 2nd O/S
with Sarah, Dan
mjeffery 13/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Rob
LJKing 25/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Steve Melvin
paultaylor 06/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Matt Roberts
ricci.andrea86 ??/2016 -
Tubs 12/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with AJM
Pat Sollom 12/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Julian Prieto 12/Sep/15 Lead dog

Took a big fall (around 50 feet) on easier ground near the top. Not quite sure what happened but a few weeks of sleep deprivation (newborn baby, trans-Atlantic jet lag, boozy nights) possibly contributed to a lapse of concentration. Fortunate to only end up with some bruising, cuts and a sore head (cracked my helmet). Had no problem with the crux (which I've done before).

tonevert 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Ami Deveaux, Richard Long
Richard L 09/Aug/15 2nd dog

Had to prusic past crux. Tony led climbing in a 3 with Amy

with Amy Devereux, Tony Johnson
Hidden 04/Aug/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 04/Aug/15 2nd
GPN 03/Jul/15 Lead

Good route! Helmet jam not required.

with Annette
net 03/Jul/15 2nd

Ace route!

with George
alice270 ?/Jul/15 2nd

Fell off at over hang. Used head to get around corner! Seconded after Ben.

Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead RP
Paula Ryan ?/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead
Flavio 09/May/15 2nd O/S
Julian Prieto 30/Nov/14 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 30/Nov/14 2nd dog
CurlyStevo 30/Aug/14 2nd

started up the E2 on the right and finished up this

with clipskipper
Hidden 30/Aug/14 2nd dog
mikehenesy 30/Aug/14 Lead dog

Bugger me, got it all wrong. couldnt figure the roof and headed out on to the face and got exhausted. headed out came back, went again set a cam, came back to the corner , came back rested, headed out again came back etc etc until Ivx couldnt do it any more and rested on the bomber gear. Had to decend a bit to sort the screwed gear and from there sussed it. Not that hard in the end. Take a good look and figure it before getting in to the corner. But hey Sonia and Shy both fell off, which made me feel better.

with Sonia
sonic46 30/Aug/14 2nd

Awkward move around roof, slipped off trying to pull around. Great climb straight up face instead of the roof . . Good effort Mike, well persevered :)

paultaylor 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Roberts
roberts1234567890 18/Jul/14 AltLd
with Paul Taylor
RKirke 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
BenL 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
funsized 30/May/14 Lead
with Fi
mc fifi 30/May/14 2nd O/S

bit of a sandbag. very awkward. use of head necessary

Hidden 18/May/14 Lead rpt
hamish2016 11/May/14 Lead O/S
with chris burn, lou atkin
brian watson 11/May/14 2nd rpt
Sophie Nunn 11/May/14 Lead rpt
with Scott, Brian
bede.west 11/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/May/14 2nd
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd
crossdressingrodney 22/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 02/Jun/13 2nd
with Colin Peck, Nadir Khan
Monkey_Alan 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/May/13 Lead O/S
Peter Lovell 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/13 Lead rpt
uncontrollable 26/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Max
Hidden ??/2013 -
ianto ??/2013 -
Dave Mahon ??/2013 2nd dog

eventful. Matt fell, rope got stuck, I fell off crux and had to prusik up 5m

LJKing 30/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Rob Marson
saz_b 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Great moves to get around roof - loving the head jam :-) little scary top out, more wobbly blocks. Swanage!

with Rollo
Rollo 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Saz manned up big-time and lead this one.

with Saz
Sam Husband 16/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Basically just one big move round the bulge, guide book is definitely right the head jam is very useful!

with Ed
Stroppy 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Helmet Jam!!! Just a couple of horrible but well protected moves, the rest is straight forward.

tsyrett 12/Sep/12 2nd dog
jcooper8 10/Sep/12 2nd
Tom Livingstone 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/12 Lead O/S
duncan 17/Aug/12 2nd O/S
jwhp 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

First testing trad lead. took me ages to pluck up the courage to get round the crux to the chimney section. took so much time i was super pumped. definitely employed the helmet jam to great effect. At the roof placed a cam very poorly without extension. On reaching top of chimney section one of the ropes became stuck. Had to down climb to the crux, free rope and repeat - this happened twice! My second said the cam was really badly placed any way! bugger. great climb

therat 04/Aug/12 Lead
jcook1980 31/Jul/12 Lead
with John Night
Monkey_Alan 05/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

Led the top section after James had to belay due to excessive rope drag.

Hidden 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 03/Jun/12 2nd rpt

Love the helmet jam!

with Dougie
dswansonlow 03/Jun/12 Lead O/S
skunky456 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Awesome committing move getting past the roof into the chimney, sorta used a helmet jam. Being inside the chimney is a much appreciated rest! The roof move is the only thing that makes it HVS 5b, the rest is more like VS 5a

nic42 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with air, stef, simon
harold walmsley 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Very tough for HVS unless I misread the crux. Hardest move done all week (5b/c?) and loose and nasty at the top. Hard to allocate stars as it is very good up to the ledge then bad. May be best to belay and finish up Tensor II?

with Paul Evans
AlexD 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Darren
riddle 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Kerm ?/Sep/11 -
rd20 17/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Patrick
Graham Westbrook 06/Jul/11 Lead O/S
wi11 05/Jul/11 AltLd O/S


james.pilbeam 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
La Mont 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Julian Prieto 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 11/Jun/11 Lead RP

Finally managed to get into the chimney on lead.

Max Streeton 11/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/11 2nd
davewing 22/May/11 2nd
with Lee
jamespilgrim 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S

No helmet jam, but a good bit of back and footing. Move around the roof not as hard as it looks at first glance.

with Mark
MarkRyder 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with James P
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Kevster 19/Feb/11 Lead O/S
sammycolon 19/Feb/11 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 30/Jan/11 Lead dnf

Got up under the roof, tried several times to get into the chimney, lowered off. Tom then gave it a go, and had the same trouble, taking two good falls. Had one more go as it was starting to get dark, but still couldn't do it. Ris had taken up his ab. rope earlier and the other pair at the crag had already left...

Hidden 30/Jan/11 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2011 -
Monkey_Alan 07/Nov/10 2nd

Climbed to recover gear after Andre failed to second.

Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead β
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
3 Names 12/Sep/10 2nd
Geoffers 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Tim
Ceridwen 01/Jul/10 Lead rpt
matt.jj ?/Jul/10 Lead dog

Loved the climb. Traversed right too low to avoid overhang and moved into 'E' territory, hence the fall. On second attempt used the helmet jam to great effect.

hrgcb 20/Jun/10 Lead

Loved the move past the roof

with Jenny
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
davenev 06/Mar/10 2nd O/S

Committing move into the chimney - helmet jam followed by squirmy body jam - nice route

with luke
Mr Tickle 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Nice climb, just the move under roof makes it HVS. No helmet jam for me thank god.

with davenev
Marti999 03/Mar/10 2nd
ChrisBrooke 03/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Marti Hallet
colkurtz 07/Feb/10 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 07/Feb/10 Lead
colkurtz ?/Feb/10 2nd
with Robb
Des J 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Max lead, Alan 2nd, me 3rd

with Max Streeton, Alan Blanchflower
Max Streeton 12/Sep/09 Lead
Monkey_Alan 12/Sep/09 2nd
pelvoux 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Mario
jacobjlloyd 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Tim
jezb1 13/Jun/09 2nd
clipskipper 13/Jun/09 Lead
with Jez B
Ceridwen 08/Jun/09 Lead dnf

damp, greasy got stuck, fell on the traverse....yuck!

Ceridwen 08/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Sophie Nunn 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
lyneux 10/May/09 2nd O/S
with Chris Bull
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
TiffTiff 10/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Alex More ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with bob
Hidden ??/2009 -
metal arms 27/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/08 Lead O/S
RocknRoll 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S

REally hard move up around the roof, very strenuous and totally commiting. Used the helmet jam method. Felt more like 5b but my partner witnessed somone else making that move lower down and with a lot more finesse and ease.

with Peter Murphy
Ed Babs 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S
clipskipper 05/Apr/08 2nd O/S

Tricky crux round the roof, but not so taxing on second.

with Ed Babington
tobydunford 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah Wysling
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
cmsg 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Luke Gannarelli
cmsg 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Luke Gannarelli
Danos ?/Apr/07 2nd
with Barry
Hidden 17/Mar/07 -
dan gibson 15/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
trevor macalonan 11/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Tim
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
mat cooper ??/2007 Lead
MontyH 08/Oct/06 2nd

Very tough moves to get into the chimney/corner

with Brian
Ramon Marin 08/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with Salomon Fernandez
Different Steve 23/Sep/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Jul/06 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Apr/06 Lead
Bob M 30/Apr/06 2nd
Marq 08/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Hidden ??/2006 -
Jim Walton ??/2006 -
with Dawb Oxbrough
chrisbevins ??/2006 Lead O/S
Boxy 25/Jun/05 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 -
lazza ?/Oct/04 2nd
with scott
Jon Greengrass ??/2004 -
with Paul H
Hidden 02/May/02 AltLd
cem 10/Nov/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Folcard
Hidden ?/Feb/01 Lead
Hidden 01/Oct/00 AltLd
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Ally Smith ??/1998 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/Dec/91 -
with Giles
steve taylor ?/Aug/89 Lead
with Ket
Dave Musgrove 28/Feb/87 AltLd O/S
with Richard Crewe
Russell Lovett 03/Jun/84 Lead O/S
with Tim Freeman
Nigel Coe 02/May/82 -
with Tim Dunsby
Chris Terrey ?/Oct/80 Lead
with Pete Hevezi
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 47
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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