Rockfax Description
An intimidating, but essential tick of the Boulder Ruckle which can be climbed in two pitches. Start below a groove, just left of a deep corner 25m from the base of the abseil. Enter the groove and follow it to the fault-line. Move right and up through a bulge into a short corner (possible belay). Move right onto the wall above the roof and traverse this up rightwards on good holds to the arete. Follow the arete to a niche, old peg, move up and then head right to an easier corner that leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. G.Smith, A.Webster 10.4.66 10/Apr/1966

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Orange Spot Swanage, SW Climbs - Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

Brown 03/Dec/17 2nd
with Stu
GeorgiePorgie1 15/Oct/17 AltLd O/S

Last route of the weekend. Me on pitch one just below the roof. Jimbo fearless on pitch two with zero gear on the big traverse! Once again, pure, three stars awesomeness! Congratulated ourselves on a great day and on managing to even get two big routes in after the lager/Guinness mayhem last night! :D

with Jim Broomhead
jimbonfire 15/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
with Georgio
Pero 28/Sep/17 Lead
hfotheri 02/Sep/17 2nd O/S
with simon
Owen Davies 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Wow! Great position for the grade!

adam088 04/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Quico
slowmotion 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Connorolfe 02/Jul/17 2nd
Q.Estelles 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/17 2nd
bryan61 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with sally
Liam Ingram 30/Jun/17 Lead O/S
klcmunro 30/Jun/17 2nd
Caitlin 07/May/17 2nd
with Andrea
ricci.andrea86 07/May/17 Lead
with Caitlin
Hidden 06/May/17 2nd O/S
tsyrett 29/Apr/17 2nd β
Oliver Smaje 18/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Beth
rosiehawker 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S
mikeski 15/Apr/17 2nd O/S
bede.west 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
haribotheclimber 08/Apr/17 2nd β
Hidden 08/Apr/17 Lead
JoeCoxson 30/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Been a while since we've had a full faff epic, so this was fun. I got up without any major dramas, but plenty of rope drag. Jonny got up to the overhang and took a swing, unknown to me belaying on top. After a while, I took a wander over to the abseil to see Jonny hanging in free space, trying to get over the lip on prussiks, without much success. To add to the drama, the ab rope had become stuck, preventing me from lifting it up and throwing it down to Jonny. I lowered Jonny into the incoming tide and swell, where he released/ cut the ab rope, which I then threw down to him down the route so he could half prussik/ half climb the route and retrieve the gear. Faff.

Hidden 30/Mar/17 2nd dnf
SuePearson 26/Mar/17 2nd

Lost 3 piece of gear never forgiven!

with darling Dave
LJC 26/Mar/17 2nd rpt
with Herve, Greg
Hidden 19/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 19/Mar/17 2nd rpt
hervenuttall ?/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Luca
Bettymolly ??/2017 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 -
Ellis Bird ??/2017 AltLd O/S
Wendy Watthews 11/Dec/16 Lead dnf

Attempted to lead the first pitch, got pumped trying to get into the layback bit above the initial groove. Lowered down pulled the ropes and handed them over to Jake. Edit looking at the other photos we were on the wrong route from the start. This would explain the looseness on the supposed second pitch.

with JakeB.
Hidden 11/Dec/16 Lead dnf
dave o 20/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with James R
SenzuBean 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Found this much harder than Finale Groove. The crux for me was pulling into the second groove - managed it somehow (had a minor panic mid-crux as I felt a sling trapped on my right leg, which was smearing and unable to be moved - just managed to shake the sling off). The traverse looks terrifying, but was actually very pleasant - managed to place a psychological micro wire. The final bit of climbing was unexpectedly tricky too. Barry came off somewhere on the crux but managed to prusik his way to safety (he was in space). The lack of gear on the traverse meant that he had to pendulum to get to the exit.

with Barry
Joris.Roulleau 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Rikki
BarrySW19 02/Oct/16 2nd dog

Holds on the crux look better than they are, which I found out once committed to them - fell off and swung into space below the roof. Had to get out the Prusiks to get back onto the wall. Found out prusiking and removing gear is somewhat tricky. Took out a cam and took another big swing into space (Jon's psychological microwire ripped)...

with Jon
Montecore 02/Oct/16 2nd

One very tricky move getting onto wall above break - really thought I might come off and did not fancy swinging into space! Wonder if I read it wrong.

with Joris Roulleau
Neil McA 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with martin cooper
Horton 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Great route. First single pitch 40m sea cliff lead. Couldn't find any gear on the traverse and looking back at my last placement from the arete (and the potential swing down) was exciting to say the least

with Matt77
Matt77 25/Sep/16 2nd

Solid lead from Al. This route always puts a smile on my face.

with Alex Horton
Martin Cooper 25/Sep/16 2nd O/S

V good. Soloing Jon snapping at my heels

with Neil
Hidden 25/Sep/16 Lead β
Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead dog
georgeevans88 24/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Quite easy to miss the correct point to go right above the roof. The holds lure you up too high. Harry fell off several times trying to go too high before working out the crucial step right. I don't think this route would actually be too hard to repeat once you knew the sequence. Maybe worth taking prussiks in the event of a swing off the traverse while seconding.

with Harry
Anna Maykova 18/Sep/16 2nd
with Ian
Ian MK 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Anna
Mike Weatherill 12/Sep/16 2nd rpt
with Eddy
Hidden 03/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Dilwat 03/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Move onto the wall and traverse is v good. Feels exposed.

nickdonohue 03/Sep/16 Lead


Hidden 11/Aug/16 2nd dog
mattprince 10/Aug/16 AltLd

Led 1st Pitch

with Will Graham
Hidden 06/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
cdpuk 06/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Chris Mooney, Paul Callaghan
Geras 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Chris P
Hidden 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
julesmckim 19/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Found this exciting for HVS

with Rob Smart
Sophie Nunn 09/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Floris, Neil W
Neilaw 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/16 Lead
mjeffery 01/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Rob
mariannekhoo 29/May/16 2nd O/S
Francois R 08/May/16 Lead

5c. Harder and more committing than Finale Groove. Beautiful line.

with Stephen
w-watson 07/May/16 Lead
robgixer 01/May/16 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 01/May/16 2nd O/S
with Russ
Vilius A. 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Russ
Russtygibbons 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Did in one with some lovely rope drag

with Ant
Martin Bagshaw 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Wouldn't argue with 4c in the old rockfax.

with Rafal Malczyk
Rafal Malczyk 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Martin Bagshaw
Kipper-Phil Smith 20/Mar/16 2nd

Really good climb but very cold must come back to do more here

with Shaun
Adam Hill 28/Feb/16 -
with Simon
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Monkey_Alan 31/Oct/15 2nd
Julian Prieto 31/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Youngmre 26/Sep/15 2nd β
with ryan mcconnell
Pero 20/Sep/15 2nd
cem 20/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Thinker01 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
halfwaythere 05/Sep/15 2nd
with mark
Hidden ?/Sep/15 Lead
Pete_Frost 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Split this at the break and led P2. Good fun. However, the traverse is a bit hard to protect for the second, as Blake found to his cost after getting pumped removing a stubborn Wallnut above the belay!

with Blake
Becky E 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Becky E
kenneM 21/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Chris
BenL 08/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Andrea
Hidden 06/Aug/15 2nd
Andrew Sloan 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

A hard move from the break onto the wall.

with Tim
Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
paultaylor ?/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
with Matt Roberts, Will I Am
LJC 25/Jul/15 Lead rpt

In 1 pitch.

with Greg
dpalmer1961 18/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Led in one pitch, traversed a tad to early which made it much harder than it should have been! Tony came off on second and flew into space! A great route but quite scary!

Tubs 28/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Gregor, AJM
Hidden 28/Jun/15 2nd O/S
AJM 28/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Gregor McCombie, Tom Sorrel
Sam Husband 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S

A battle of the mind after the bottle of wine the night before!

with Ed
Stroppy 14/Jun/15 2nd rpt

Still a great route

Steve_T_Taylor 09/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with louise kennedy
Monkey_Alan 30/May/15 2nd rpt
Sophie Nunn 30/May/15 2nd rpt
with Alan, Brian
brian watson 30/May/15 Lead
richardashe 17/May/15 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 17/May/15 2nd O/S
charley 12/May/15 2nd O/S

Nice route & good lead by Mark...

with Mark
MDR61 12/May/15 Lead β

Did this a few years ago as a second - really pleased to have finally led it - think it's a quite serious lead because although it's not that technical the traverse gets a little bold and on lead you're gonna swing into the corner and maybe get smashed, whereas on second you're gonna swing into space. Not much gear on traverse and peg is now almost shagged.

with charley
Flavio 10/May/15 Lead O/S
islandlynx 09/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/15 Lead O/S
chris_woodsy 12/Apr/15 2nd O/S
BenL 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
tcn_2002 12/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
adam 24 22/Mar/15 2nd rpt
with Paul Clarkson
Derek Ryden 08/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant route but soaking wet after rain.

with David Coley
Chris Sansum 21/Feb/15 2nd rpt
with Ewan Whitmey
Dr Toph 24/Jan/15 2nd O/S

Trundled a very loose pillar of rock in the left-hand exit groove. Now safer, but a little dirty. Stick to the right hand exit. Cool traverse above the roof to the arete!

with Steve
Cheese Monkey 24/Jan/15 2nd rpt
with Rich R
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead rpt
joedoherty 15/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
mattprince 15/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/14 2nd
cdpuk 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
John Sheehan 26/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Done in two pitches.

with David Coley
Dave Mahon 25/Oct/14 Lead

Done in one pitch. found the crux hard this time - must be unfit. Great climb.

with Justin Sharpe
Pero 09/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 08/Sep/14 TR
roberts1234567890 07/Sep/14 AltLd
with Will Moy
Buccaneerbilly 03/Sep/14 2nd
with Tom Boeckx, Michael Henesy
mikehenesy 03/Sep/14 Lead
with Willy
JM 30/Aug/14 Solo O/S

2nd Pitch.

with Stevo
stevoland 30/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with John
Emily 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Really varied and cool climbing. Had a minor wobble after taking out a piece of gear just before the first short traverse, but kept it together and stayed on.

with Nick
Nick Russell 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

In one big pitch (messed up the ropework). Varied climbing, with the crux in an unexpected place.

with Emily
mikehenesy 03/Aug/14 Lead β

Toms lead - what happened?? A week of D&V and Finale groove left him weak, and lead to Willy close to a bit of the D too. Not to fear as I curtailed my swim and lead on with maximun phaff!

with Willy, Tom Boeux
nige pacer 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Mike Lea
climbingpixie 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Andy
Kirill 02/Aug/14 Lead rpt
cem 02/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Aug/14 2nd O/S
mattprince 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd Pitch HVS 5a

joedoherty 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route done in two pitches.

Kevster 20/Jul/14 Lead rpt
khalidq 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jon Leighton
jonleighton 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Gavdee1 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Kev
andycash 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ash
Joemanglerocks 15/Jun/14 2nd

Led P2

TimKnight 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Committing moves into the traverse, but otherwise quite steady

MPSBunny 25/May/14 2nd dnf

Got up the corner but lost all nerve when standing at the start of the traverse which had a distinct lack of protection. Spent a lot of time shouting to be lowered and eventually another climbing was able to relay the message to John. John abbed for gear and a couple of minutes after touching down we saw a guy (Roger) take a ground fall on Elysium. Called for rescue and got a lift boat team to help him and a helicopter to winch him out. Found out afterwards that it was bruised ribs and nothing more.

Brannock 25/May/14 Lead O/S


Martin Haworth 17/May/14 Lead O/S
hamish2016 10/May/14 Lead O/S
with lou atkin, chris burn
Stuart Johnston 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Not hard, but exposed.

adam 24 05/May/14 2nd rpt
Duncan Campbell 05/May/14 2nd
with Bubbles
Billg 03/May/14 2nd O/S
clipskipper 03/May/14 2nd β

The move out from the half-height belay stance is exposed for the grade.

with Ro
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
squicky 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Nice route rolled into one pitch. Tried to go straight up at the traverse and got quite pumped for some reason.

with Ben
Cheese Monkey 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Well good

with Iggy
Ash Sayers 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
andycash 18/Apr/14 2nd
with Ash
will moy 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Nutt
mattc 30/Mar/14 2nd dog

found it very hard but not very good at jamming

with sue
Hidden 23/Mar/14 2nd O/S
duncan 23/Mar/14 Lead rpt
AlexD 15/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Monkey_Alan 15/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Feb/14 2nd O/S
cymjt ??/2014 -
Norman_P_W 29/Dec/13 AltLd
with Bob M
ian d f 29/Dec/13 Lead rpt
with Mark
markfromstoke 29/Dec/13 2nd
with Ian
Bob M 29/Dec/13 AltLd
Dizz 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Tubs 30/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Liz F
CurlyStevo 17/Nov/13 Lead

Really good route, didn't find the crux too hard but it is pretty sustained, the final headwall section soon after the traverse is a bit spooky and probably worth HVS 4c in its self. Glad to get it clean this time. felt like a lovely warm sunny day, too hot in troos n t shirt despite being 9 deg c.

with paulus
Kirill 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S
mike.moss 16/Nov/13 2nd rpt
petecallaghan 10/Nov/13 Lead rpt

Ab'd in intending to warm up on nearby VS's. Sea too big to access any, and David C got impressively drenched by a big wave, so we escaped back up Lightning Wall. Same as last visit ...

Hidden 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/13 AltLd rpt
winter hill1 03/Nov/13 2nd

agh!!! hard traverse as second, incommunicado....

Paul Eckton 19/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Joshua Leak
The Ivanator 22/Sep/13 2nd dnf

An epic that ended with a coastguard rescue after dark.

with Stevo
CurlyStevo 22/Sep/13 Lead dog

Damp and greasy conditions and took a long time to lead with rest but got there in the end. Ivan unable to reach the cliff top in the final hour of light and had to be resucued by the coastcard. Gear returned by scott tit bmc president!

with Ivanator
Kerm ?/Sep/13 AltLd
Huntlyfiddler 21/Aug/13 2nd
bpmclimb 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Clare
Nick Clement 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
Matt77 03/Aug/13 Lead β

Not sure how to classify the style...first half climbed on Owen's gear, second half on my own. Great route.

with Owen
Owen W-G 03/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Struggled at crux move rightwards so stupidly went directly up through bulges above the break and got stuck, dithered for 15mins trying not to panic but eventually jumped off when all other options evaporated. All a bit stressful. Matt led without drama but i still found crux tricky. Mojo notable by its absence all w/e.

with Matt B
Dan Lane 29/Jul/13 Lead dog

Dound this desperate, probably due to the 98% humidity. Water was almost dripping off the holds! Great route though.

Tom Livingstone 29/Jul/13 2nd β
Geoffers 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Tim
Sophie Nunn 20/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Sarp
Luxulyan 20/Jul/13 2nd
with Tom Murrell
sarpedon 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S

With Strong Sophie Nunn

colkurtz 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Robb
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead
GPN 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Annette
petegruf 30/Jun/13 2nd
with kasha
net 30/Jun/13 2nd
with George
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead
richsmithinbristol 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Graham Atkins 23/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/13 2nd O/S
ardzeiem 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Superb adventurous feel and demanding on technical capabilities

with Nic
mes32 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S


with Wilki
ian d f 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Michael P, Pete H
pearson9596 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Pete Hiscox, Ian Faulkner
Monkey_Alan 09/Jun/13 2nd rpt
wi11 08/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Mat, Vicky Hau
Mark Warnett ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

think i went too high at the traverse; anyway thought it was tough and pumpy

mattc 27/May/13 2nd dog
Hidden 22/May/13 2nd
TommyA 12/May/13 2nd O/S
tim.fairhall 12/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tommy
Sophie Nunn 06/May/13 2nd rpt
with Andy J
Nexonen 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Dusty but awesome

with Sophie
Tightsgirl 21/Apr/13 AltLd
arose 21/Apr/13 AltLd

Good. scary leaving the belay

bradfry 21/Apr/13 2nd
with Luke
adam 24 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
tomB 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Juliette
Stroppy 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Great climb. Very exciting coming out on to the traverse. Brilliant day too.

RKirke 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
budchawla ?/Feb/13 2nd
Rockwarrior ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
mikehenesy 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Seconded this a couple of years ago, was easier leading it without battling to stop being dragged out on to the traverse. Tim did a better job of seconding it than I'd done.

with Tim Johns
Alex the Alex ?/Sep/12 Lead
alastairbegley 28/Aug/12 Lead dog

rested on gear just before the move up and onto the traverse as I couldn't work out where to go immediately and there was chalk everywhere. Fantastic climb, first route at Swanage and best route of the day

Anthony Dixon 05/Aug/12 Lead
Dave89 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Great route traversing across was the wall on good holds was really fun.

with Ali
Hidden 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 24/Jul/12 2nd
with Becca
BeccaSnowden 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S


Jake Young 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Mike
Monkey_Alan 15/Jul/12 2nd

Had to leave Andre's orange nut at the crux after he lobbed on it.

rd20 14/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Patrick
paddygoodwinlondon 13/Jul/12 Lead
rd20 13/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Patrick
kelliroberts3 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with merlin march, Peter Rigby
Robin Woodward ?/Jul/12 Lead
Paul-Michael 23/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Diccon lead and kept the rope too tight making it difficult especially at the crux. Still I was climbing like a one armed hippo.

with Diccon Proctor, Paul Nurse
paultaylor 13/Jun/12 2nd O/S
will moy 13/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with paul taylor
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Ali.B 30/May/12 2nd O/S
with PeterRobers
Hidden 19/May/12 AltLd O/S
3 Names 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Bulman
Haydn Jones 13/May/12 2nd O/S
with pep
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead rpt
froglette 11/May/12 2nd
with John Proudfoot
Kris suriyo 10/May/12 Lead O/S
louby 22/Apr/12 2nd
stuaart 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S

HVS 4c is a fair grade.

with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn
chris_B 21/Apr/12 2nd rpt
Simon Allcock 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Wilki
harold walmsley 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Superb. Felt a bit hard for grade for a short steep but well-protected section just before the big traverse.

with Paul Evans
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
tobydunford 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 25/Mar/12 2nd
LukeyG 25/Mar/12 Lead
berndl 17/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 10/Mar/12 2nd rpt
MarkRyder 03/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Ed
tonevert 18/Feb/12 Lead β
with Rob Scott
mark schramm 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Dave C
clams ??/2012 2nd
with K&PR
Ian JL ??/2012 -
nigel pearson 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

wow, what a brilliant adventure.

with Robin
Kevster 06/Nov/11 Lead rpt
louby 06/Nov/11 2nd
chris_B 06/Nov/11 Lead

great route

Hidden 23/Oct/11 2nd dog
petecallaghan 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S

We abseiled into the Ruckle intending to warm up on Finale Groove and then head to Behemoth. However, despite low tide, the sea was too high for us to reach FG and I got a soaking checking out the access. Instead I lead out on Lightening Wall. A bouldery start lead onto good quality climbing on sandy rock that felt a little insecure. I found the move out of the groove awkward and committing, but well protected. The traverse rightwards over the big roof had little protection, but good gear at the end. Another crux move left out of a groove also felt awkward and committing, but reasonably well protected. Very high quality throughout and a fabulous overhanging position, with the sea crashing in. My two partners got dowsed by a particularly big wave, and Chris had a battle to escape up the route, pumping out pretty early on and prussiking up the rope to overcome the crux. I think it took more than two hours for us to complete it. This was Chris's second day of sea cliff climbing so he definitely got thrown in the deep end with a proper Ruckle experience.

with Chris Ridger, Nick Donohue
nickdonohue ?/Oct/11 2nd

Great climb, wish I'd led it.

with Pete Callahan, Chris Ridgers
jasonpm 24/Sep/11 Lead
Different Steve 24/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Jason
Hidden 20/Sep/11 Lead
Andrew Gee 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Tom Hill 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
jezb1 01/Sep/11 2nd

Must lead this soon! In one pitch. 5a?

Didymus 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

First Boulder Ruckle route since Bottomless Buttress 18 years ago; done as one pitch; found the crux tough for the grade, sensational traverse, gripping experience! 50m ropes don't reach stake and back down to cliff edge unless second solos up first few metres

with Marcus
Hidden 11/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
MDR61 10/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Wow ! What a fantastic route. Loads of exposure on the move onto the upper wall. Thought I was off of this one at the crux (trying to recover gear), but as soon as I got onto the traverse the holds came thick and fast and i was able to finnish the route. Well chuffed, first HVS (all be it only as a second) - cheers Paul.

cliffy 05/Aug/11 2nd dog

1st time out climbing for 3 months on something near my best lead grade. Not a great success!

with Julian Prieto, Andrew Combes
Julian Prieto 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Combes, Ian Clifford
Monkey_Alan 31/Jul/11 2nd rpt
AlexD 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
colkurtz 31/Jul/11 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead rpt
annetweddell 28/Jul/11 Lead
with Jeff
Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 24/Jul/11 Lead rpt

Had previously seconded. Very wet undercling at the crux.

Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd dnf
wi11 28/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Frank C
Ceridwen 26/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Matt Hot rock, Sophie Nunn
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd
james.pilbeam 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tonanf 22/Jun/11 Lead
with james
tonanf 22/Jun/11 Lead
with james
matt.jj 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Magic route! A must, and what a traverse!

Bob M 04/Jun/11 AltLd

Led the crux pitch - got up OK but too hot for comfort.

with Stewart Walker
Dave Mahon ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S


Jim Slater 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Trevor Wilson
LJC 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
ben.richards 09/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Alan100 03/Apr/11 -

Done this a couple of times before but it's good enough to keep repeating. Traverse is nicely exposed without ever being hard - just need to be confident. Don't forget to look down though and enjoy the space under your feet!

Rowan Mitchell 03/Apr/11 AltLd

I climbed the first pitch

wi11 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Chris Gee
jtree03 21/Mar/11 AltLd
with dazza
rustaldo 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

exciting, adventurous climb.. awesome! i got pitch2 and the main traverse

with Uncle Dave
The Ivanator 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Great route, tough steep section after the break definitely felt 5a.

with Stewart
Stewart Armstrong 19/Mar/11 -
with Ivan Bicknell
LJC 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
John Tanner 12/Mar/11 2nd
ben.richards 12/Mar/11 Lead dog

Climbed at 9am without warming up/stretching, got slightly confused by the sequence of moves at the crux just before the traverse, got pumped and rested on the gear. Pondered over the moves whilst relaxing in my harness and then managed to climb it with relative ease. Traverse was brilliant, though no gear through the middle of it. Rock-over onto the arete was very fun indeed. My first HVS ever!

Chris Sansum 05/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Backed off. Had traversed under overhang, then went up a bit, but wasn't in the mood to commit to next moves up & then along the rightward traverse to niche. Too tired, too late & too rubbish at climbing today! Next time...

with Gary Lewin
climbtim 09/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/11 AltLd rpt
jasonpm ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Steve IMC
cem 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Led in one

wild_nomad 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Climbing of high diversity and quality. Lots of good holds but like most climbs here it's the steepness that gets the grade. Crux is the first few moves after the fault line. The traverse is the easiest bit. Split this into two pitches to reduce rope drag but the belay point was pretty uncomfortable. Would recommend doing it in one pitch with two skinny ropes and long extenders. Defo HVS 5a!

with Martin Hore
Bram 20/Sep/10 Lead
djking1983 20/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd
haydng 04/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with John
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
rob askew 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S

all my chalk had ran out on a hot day making it tougher. Only one crux probably hard 4c. Sorry again to nick for not placing gear after the hard move before the traverse.

with nick brindley
mrtom 01/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Mike Moss
Si dH 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S

First route at The Ruckle. Very impressed with the crag. Adam couldn't follow the crux and with much faff, I had to lower him off, ab down for most of my gear and then climb a VS with him to escape. Took most of the afternoon, but a great route! It is definitely worth 5a as given in the new WCC rockfax.

with Adam, Mike Henesy
mikehenesy 28/Jul/10 2nd dog

Simons lead, he seemed took a bit of time over the crux which was fair enough as it seemed def hard 5a. Maybe it was because I was getting pulled hard right on to the traverse when I was trying to go up, or maybe I'm just crap. Had to rearrange some gear so that I didn't take a big swing if I came off. Got shagged doing it and had to clip into a quick draw for a rest. Move ok once I recovered and negociated some slack! Adam couldn'd do the move - and then the fun started!

with Adam Hughes, Simon DeHaan
django 17/Jul/10 Lead dnf

great climb but just too tired.....

with John Rowe
RobRock84 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Kev
cayteye 10/Jul/10 2nd dnf
with Kevin Faux
Graham Westbrook ?/Jul/10 Lead
Kevster ?/Jul/10 -
mattkemp70 ?/Jul/10 2nd
with Westy
Hidden 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
risby 25/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 20/Jun/10 2nd
with Tom Thorne, Mark James
Hidden 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S
petitflous05 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

My first trad lead after a year!

ASchwirtz 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Carol
mick1jones 08/May/10 2nd dog
al99 01/May/10 Lead O/S

Epic! A pretty serious route in my books. Lovely climbing though.

martinazando 01/May/10 2nd O/S
Graham Westbrook ?/May/10 2nd
Elliot King LC&CC 21/Apr/10 2nd β

not sure if this isvthe right climb did a few with pep this day date is wrong

with pep
manwithacam 14/Mar/10 Lead
with Joris
uncontrollable 13/Mar/10 Solo O/S

Great climb!. with a breathtaking traverse. Thanks go to whoever left a nr5 wire which made cleaning and jumaring a lot easier

Hidden 06/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
mike.moss ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Jane Weir ??/2010 Lead
RCrockford 10/Oct/09 2nd
with Jonah
Sophie Nunn 03/Oct/09 2nd
Hidden 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/09 AltLd dog
Dave Mahon ?/Aug/09 2nd

Exciting traverse!

with Brian Mead
w.pettet-smith 12/Jul/09 Lead

nice route- strong line. went a bit too far left at cruxy bit, so had to traverse a bit further right that was neccessary.

with david coley
PilarMartinez 12/Jul/09 Lead dog
jezb1 18/Jun/09 2nd

Quality, look forward to leading it.

sgl 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jez
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd
Ceridwen 06/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/09 2nd β
mark89 20/May/09 AltLd O/S
garywong 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead rpt
The_Boy_ODwyer 01/Apr/09 2nd

Traverse was scary on second. Looked like death on lead...

with Rob
robertporter 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Elliot King LC&CC ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Mar/09 2nd rpt
tobydunford 14/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Angus
Hidden 15/Feb/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2009 -
mutt ??/2009 -
with Naomi Moran
trev_f 28/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Ed
duncan 06/Dec/08 AltLd
with Pete Debbage
tobydunford 01/Nov/08 2nd β
with Harry Martin
Hidden 12/Oct/08 2nd
givemetea 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Very exposed laybacking around the corner onto the traverse - very nice!

with Tracey Tomlin
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
maresia 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Rob Scheichl
Hidden 07/Sep/08 2nd rpt
RocknRoll 29/Jun/08 2nd RP

I tried to lead it but bottled the move out right from the break which involves smaring and a sort of lay back on a big flake. I tried to go up higher but couldn't hold on to the damp rock and rested on a nice big tech friend no. 4

with Rob Gibson
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Mike Weatherill ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
RMG 11/May/08 2nd
with haydng
haydng 11/May/08 Lead rpt
with Rachel
tebs 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S

Best route I've done at Swanage. Varied climbing, varied rock and amazing exposed positions. The traverse above the roof is the top class.

with Mike
Will Homoky 10/Apr/08 Lead O/S

A wonderful route, especially the traverse position.

with Tom Hindson
Hidden 24/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Neil Adams 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S

Brilliant route!

with Andy N
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 04/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Bob M 10/Oct/07 AltLd

C led crux pitch - her first Swanage HVS

Clee 23/Sep/07 2nd
with Martin H
Chris the Tall 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch - rope drag became a pain, but great route

with Dave T
Katex 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Dan
clipskipper 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Lovely route with a tingly traverse across the wall itself. Best not to climb it with a single rope, though!

with Roger H Smith
riddle ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Lee UKC!
steve gould 17/Jun/07 2nd
Oliver Sherman 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
jchenoweth 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Fairly easy HVS

with Fat Alan
Matt Shepherd 10/May/07 Lead O/S
Different Steve 04/May/07 Lead rpt
with Guy Reid
cem 28/Apr/07 Lead rpt

Led in one

with Joel Trott
Hidden 22/Apr/07 2nd
MontyH 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S

great route, awkward belay ledge, Pete led pitch one in good style.

with pete frost
beardy mike ??/2007 Lead O/S
chrisbevins ??/2007 -
Dan_Carroll ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
Rob Pitt ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 19/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S

And 03/03/12 with Mark Ryder

Jim Vach ?/Nov/06 2nd rpt
with Paul Winder
Ramon Marin 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Salomon Fernandez
Bob M 03/Oct/06 AltLd
Hidden 29/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Different Steve 24/Sep/06 2nd rpt
with Jen Towill
Richard Horn 20/Aug/06 Lead O/S
winter_burn 10/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Ybot Htulk ?/Jun/06 AltLd
with Pete
Hidden 09/Apr/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 23/Mar/06 2nd O/S
with jamie evans
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd β
Hidden ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 AltLd
ChrisBrooke 19/Nov/05 2nd
with John Inkpen
bigie bob ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Andy Chubb 29/May/05 AltLd
with Vaughan Hewitt
Hidden 01/May/05 AltLd
steve taylor 01/May/05 AltLd β

Led top pitch - front cover shot in Climb mag.

Hidden ?/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
Norman_P_W 27/Mar/05 AltLd
with Bob M
Bob M 27/Mar/05 AltLd

led crux pitch

Hidden ?/Jan/05 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2005 AltLd
with Alex More
feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Ed Causton ??/2005 Lead O/S
Geoffers ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Simon
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Budge 17/Oct/04 Lead dog
brian watson 21/Aug/04 AltLd
Bob M 21/Aug/04 AltLd
five 12/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with PW, TW
Hidden ?/Jun/04 2nd O/S
Dave Reeve ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
Hidden 27/Apr/04 2nd
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Marq 13/Mar/04 2nd O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
benjino ?/Jan/04 -
Boxy 13/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Mick
Hidden 07/Sep/03 AltLd β
pezzerrr 23/Feb/03 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 28/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/01 Lead
Hidden 30/May/01 AltLd
Hidden ??/2001 -
cem 22/Oct/00 AltLd rpt

Led p1

with Miles Butteriss
aged_ape ?/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with KC
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/99 AltLd O/S
cem 11/Sep/99 AltLd O/S

Led p2

Ally Smith ?/Feb/99 Lead O/S
Sime64 ??/1999 2nd dog

I think I had to rest on the rope for this

with Steve M
Robmwatt ??/1999 -
andyfeds 20/Sep/98 Lead

Minor epic! I decided to lead it as a single pitch, just enough rope. Had to down-climb to recover some gear though. Andy C had difficulty with the traverse. We scared off the next pair who were considering it!

with Andy C
Hidden 19/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Budge 11/Apr/97 AltLd O/S
with Mike Oates
mikej 29/Sep/95 AltLd
with Mike Byles
colin milton 28/Aug/95 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
TonyF 15/Oct/94 AltLd O/S
with Pete Scott
Roget 30/Mar/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Okecroak 30/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
with G Scott
Mark Kemball 20/Jul/93 Lead
with Alison Dorey
Hidden 09/Jun/93 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Feb/92 AltLd O/S
kp64zl ?/Jan/92 AltLd
with Keith
sdht ??/1992 -
with Dave Ward
MoWalker3 22/May/91 AltLd
with Joe
ewjudge 05/May/91 Lead O/S

Wonderful traverse to start the second pitch.

with Sven Wardle
Hidden ?/Apr/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Nov/90 AltLd O/S
Adrian Daniels 31/May/90 AltLd
Steve Webster 31/May/90 AltLd
mark-abz 29/Apr/90 Lead
with Simon K
Hidden 14/Jan/90 AltLd
Pete Nugent 24/Mar/89 -
Nigel Coe ??/1989 Lead
with Anne from SF
steve taylor ?/Jul/88 Lead O/S

First Swanage HVS

with Martin Stansbury
steve taylor ?/Jul/88 AltLd
with mark grover
pete johnson ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S
with Andy Tallant
Nigel Coe 18/May/86 2nd
with Brian Wyvill
DDDD ??/1986 AltLd
JamieAyres ?/Jun/85 AltLd O/S

I led 1st pitch, Toby led 2nd. Hot day.

Hidden ??/1985 -
GuyM ??/1985 -
The Reaper 03/Jul/83 2nd O/S
Russell Lovett 02/Jul/83 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, seconded pitch two. Cant remember partners name on this or the next time I did this route. Lead both pitch on subsequent ascents

with unknown
Nigel Coe 28/Jun/83 -
with Pete Oxley
Dave Musgrove 05/Mar/83 AltLd
Chris Terrey ?/May/80 Lead
with Bob Gookey
Nigel Coe 28/Apr/79 2nd
with Frank Farrell
Ken Taylor 01/Nov/78 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Dizz ??/0000 2nd

Gear shennanigans - jammed large cam and serious rope drag and belayer couldn't hear so oblivious to comedy struggles - had to just jump off to get hands free in the end - very amusing! (Have led o/s before).

with peter h
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 167
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 166
Votes cast 150
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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