UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restiction applies to the whole of Hedbury Big Cove crag during nesting season.

16m.

Rockfax Description
An easier diagonal start to Glue Crux Clan. Climb the flake that curves left (shared with Puff Adder) and then join and finish up the top half of Glue Crux Clan. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 29/Jun/1991.

Ticklists

Hedbury In a Day , Hedbury Sport Routes , Swanage Sport Routes

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User Date Notes
McBirdy 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A route of two contrasting halves. Nice juggy moves all the way until it joins Glue Crux Clan... then a rest on the slab and a chance to look at what lies ahead - namely fantastic balancey technical climbing of increasing difficulty, with the crux right at the top. Tackled direct, as it should be, the finishing move is probably english 6a, and therefore the route is harder than 6b - although up until this final move, 6b is about right. Its all about standing up on tiptoe, pinching a tiny hold, and slipping two fingertips at full stretch into the tiny undercut flake above. Now do you dare step up?! Brilliant.
Show beta
βeta: A route of two contrasting halves. Nice juggy moves all the way until it joins Glue Crux Clan... then a rest on the slab and a chance to look at what lies ahead - namely fantastic balancey technical climbing of increasing difficulty, with the crux right at the top. Tackled direct, as it should be, the finishing move is probably english 6a, and therefore the route is harder than 6b - although up until this final move, 6b is about right. Its all about standing up on tiptoe, pinching a tiny hold, and slipping two fingertips at full stretch into the tiny undercut flake above. Now do you dare step up?! Brilliant.

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Buoys will be Buoys

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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