Rockfax Description
A magical wall climb. Start in the middle of the steepest section of the wall. Climb the fingery lower-wall with conviction to finish up a thin crack in the compact face above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 25.6.95 25/Jun/1995

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland.

marcduhig 14/Oct Lead O/S
with pep
beefy_legacy 28/Aug Lead RP

2nd go. First time messed up putting in the third draw. Easy with the quickdraws in and knowing where the holds are. Best route on Portland?

Hidden 19/Aug Lead β
Wood for Trees 12/Aug Lead O/S

hard start

with crew
James Oakes 12/Aug Lead O/S
with Steph, Theo, Sophie Keltie, Howard, Gus, Flo Barton, Guy Van Greuning
Gus 12/Aug Lead O/S
with James Oakes
fennerz 06/Aug Lead β
with Jocelyn
ella.thorne5 05/Aug -
tim.fairhall 04/Aug Lead dog
with Sachi
GrahamGiles 15/Jul Lead O/S

Holds were really slimy but managed to crawl my way up it. Terrifying. Would be nice if dry...

with Yijing
Q.Estelles 15/Jul Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 15/Jul Lead O/S

Indeed magical

Vespa63 12/Jul Lead O/S
with Rich
Rock to Fakey 12/Jul Lead dnf

Tried, but not hard enough, downclimbed without clipping b2 a few times b4 deciding to leave it for another day, hopefully shady, sun was getting to me... + Just needed to reach a bit higher.?

rachelvlc 08/Jul Lead
with Luke
littleluke 08/Jul Lead
Edward Kwong 18/Jun Lead O/S

No angry seagull this time!

Hidden 17/Jun TR dog
AlexRenshaw 10/Jun Lead
SaraAlassam 10/Jun Lead
kennythescot 03/Jun Lead β
samparsons 03/Jun Lead β
Hidden 02/Jun Lead dog
RadekNowak 13/May Lead O/S
with Ewa Rams
tsyrett 07/May Lead O/S
Hayley loves climbing 22/Apr Lead β
Hidden 22/Apr Lead O/S
TomatoPro 19/Apr Lead dog

Attempted twice, pumpy! One rest at same place each time. Really enjoyed the upper headwall

etrillaud 08/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 25/Mar 2nd dog
with Dan Verge
Dandan82 25/Mar Lead O/S
Stroppy 18/Feb Lead dog

Wet and slimy :(

Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Wendy 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Kate K
Rockmonkey1977 25/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Very good climbing with the crux being a sustained section right from the start. Then it backs off but many parts are still fluffable...

Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead dog
cdpuk 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Mooney, Rob Scarisbrick
afrosam 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 18/Sep/16 Lead dog
nimajneb 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S
gem_stone12 14/Sep/16 Lead
JackMac 07/Aug/16 Lead β
with Tomar
brian watson 06/Aug/16 Lead RP

Great route

with Jane
Jane Weir 06/Aug/16 2nd
joese7en 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
tommccluskey 07/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Amar
hfotheri 26/Jun/16 Lead dog

Watch out for birds nesting on the route next door

Hidden 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
littleluke 14/May/16 Lead rpt
chris_woodsy 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Widdaz
Nick Russell 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Probably the nicest of the headwall cracks, but with a stiff crux low down.

Caspian Johnson 14/Mar/16 Lead β
with ollie_e
ollie_e 14/Mar/16 Lead O/S


with Caspian
Martin Bagshaw 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

lovely climb.

with Tom Hudson, Catherine Smith
Katsmiff 05/Sep/15 TR dog

Really enjoyed this climb. Shouldn't have fallen really...ran outta strength.

elliptic 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tash K.
Sophie Nunn 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Ed B
Ally Smith 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Stiff warm up - got a flash pump!

Luke Owens 25/Jul/15 Lead G/U

Greased off the start, so hot that day but an excellent line!

tash 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with ali k
FlavioL1989 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
Kevster 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Seagulls at the top attacking

tonevert 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
Kris suriyo 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Gary
Hidden 05/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 10/May/15 TR dog
hankyc 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Really nice long pitch which eases and gets better and better!

td72 ?/May/15 Lead O/S
with Mike M, Bryan Stevens
R2B 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Climb
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Gem Minihan 18/Apr/15 TR dog

First climb post-op

with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Nat Haigh
Dibdawg 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Dean177 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
dbrooks 18/Jan/15 Lead dog

Came off clipping 3rd bolt then finished clean. Pumped at the end of the day

with Dr Dave
Bristoldave 04/Jan/15 Lead β
with Luke
kingborris ??/2015 -
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead β
Rockmonkey1977 13/Sep/14 Lead dog

Nice climbing but the bottom was very, very greasy.

Sam4242 10/Sep/14 Lead dog
Sam4242 22/Aug/14 Lead dog

1 fall

Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Rosea Day 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 09/Aug/14 2nd
with ali k
Vince 03/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Eric Pieuchot
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead dog
BenL 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
robbo99 22/Jun/14 Lead dog

Despite multiple attempts, couldnt figure the low crux for a clean ascent. Great route and worth returning for

Graham Westbrook 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 15/May/14 Lead RP
with Alex Dennis, Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Ed Babs, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Murray Freestone, Gem Minihan, Natalie Haigh
Lee_Meaden 05/May/14 TR dog
funsized 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 05/Oct/13 Lead β
Peter Lovell 05/Oct/13 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
mark20 03/Sep/13 Lead β
maybe_si 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
redjerry 22/Aug/13 TR O/S

Damp, felt 6c

Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd
Dan_Carroll 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Iain
Ian Bell 29/Jun/13 Lead dog

Stopped at the crux

Jay-Ast 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
julesmckim 16/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 15/Jun/13 Lead
Luke Dawson 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead
littleluke 05/May/13 -
Daniel 20/Aug/12 Lead
with Jasmina Saric
CRiddiford 29/Jul/12 Lead dog

fingers slipped off just before making the move that finishes the crux, oh well

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 29/Jul/12 Lead RP

Really hard crux move

Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead β
John Mcshea 16/Jul/12 Lead O/S
billb ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead dog
AlexD 28/May/12 Lead RP
with Ed
nataliehaigh 26/May/12 2nd dog
philhaigh 26/May/12 Lead dog
yarrow 21/May/12 TR O/S
with Mark C, Laurence Everitt
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead RP
Harry Thorpe 20/May/12 Lead O/S

Hard (for the grade) starting moves followed by juggy climbing on superb rock. Stunning.

with Mark Chev
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
paultaylor 07/Jan/12 Lead
with Grant, maffer the faffer
Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead dog
with James Kingswood
Tommyads ??/2012 -
Danny Crump 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Andrew Porter, Michael Porter, Sarah Pentelow
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead dog
Linc 31/Aug/11 Lead RP
Alex More 25/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Ed babs
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead RP
brian watson 11/Jun/11 Lead dog
with neil weymouth
philhilo 14/May/11 Lead dog

Fell off same place as misha, seemed very strenous on the crux, maybe not warmed up enough?

with misha
Misha 14/May/11 Lead dog

Foot slipped off on the crux and I fell off, how embarrassing! The crux felt pretty hard for the grade.

with Phil
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
slav ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with James P
Hidden 24/Jun/10 Lead
thomasmouse 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with marcus
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
eroica64 02/Aug/09 TR dog

Hard crux sequence on finger sidepulls and then quite sustained afterwards.

with Audrey
feilx 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Bob & Andy S
bigie bob 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 TR O/S
briar4012 10/May/09 TR dnf
with Jane Weir
dannyboy83 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nils
garburn 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
La Mont ??/2009 -
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Matt Bennett 17/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/08 Lead β
with Matt Booth
Ed Babs 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Roger
tonanf ?/Nov/07 AltLd RP
with Pep
tobydunford 28/Aug/07 Lead dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
Richard Horn 13/Aug/06 Lead RP
shoulders 14/Jul/06 Lead
with mart
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
The Jazz Butcher ??/2004 -
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
just one more 15/Sep/02 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
John Southworth ??/2001 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2001 -
duncan 20/May/00 Lead O/S
with Phillipe
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/96 Lead
bruce ??/1996 -
clark alston ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
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High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set