28m.

Rockfax Description
A magical wall climb. Start in the middle of the steepest section of the wall. Climb the fingery lower-wall with conviction to finish up a thin crack in the compact face above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 25/Jun/1995

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland, Spanish crew 2018, West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+, Portland Sendathon

Feedback

UserDateNotes
J1_TOV 8 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Stiff warm up with shaky low down moves with a long reach left being the last hard move. Bliss after clip 3.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Stiff warm up with shaky low down moves with a long reach left being the last hard move. Bliss after clip 3.
a_radiohead_fan 22 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: top route. strenny low down with a little food for thought higher up. excellent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: top route. strenny low down with a little food for thought higher up. excellent.
Jus 11 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A 3 star top banana. Easy for the grade & just as good as Trad Free World.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A 3 star top banana. Easy for the grade & just as good as Trad Free World.
Ben Stokes 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Nice and sustained - a magnificent climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice and sustained - a magnificent climb.
John Alcock 19 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Superb, but be prepared to really go for it on the big lunge left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb, but be prepared to really go for it on the big lunge left.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Scribe 21 Sep Lead RP
Hidden 19 Sep Lead dog
FerClimbs 8 Sep Lead dog Big fall at the crux. It requires more stamina.
Big fall at the crux. It requires more stamina.
Scribe 7 Sep Lead dog
with Tutu
with Tutu
J1_TOV 7 Sep Lead O/S
dobby 200 31 Aug Lead O/S
with Gareth
with Gareth
Jamo23 25 Aug Lead O/S
Sam Brown 24 Aug Lead O/S
with Natalie Brown
with Natalie Brown
martinfindlay 18 Aug Lead
julesmckim 4 Aug Lead rpt Lovely climbing
with paul mccarthy
Lovely climbing
with paul mccarthy
Hidden 3 Aug Lead O/S
MarcDorrington 31 Jul -
Hidden 29 Jul Lead O/S
Skeen 28 Jul Lead
Hidden 28 Jul Lead dog
MadVlad 27 Jul Lead dnf The move to reach for the second bold proved too hard and commiting.
The move to reach for the second bold proved too hard and commiting.
Hidden 24 Jul Lead
ReubenKouidri 24 Jul Lead β
Kitty27 22 Jul Lead O/S
with Mike W
with Mike W
Mike W 21 Jul Lead O/S
with Kitty27
with Kitty27
Harrietbarford 13 Jul Lead β
mr_cf 13 Jul -
with Ed Kwong
with Ed Kwong
johnhan310 13 Jul Lead rpt
Nlawn 13 Jul Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 7 Jul Lead O/S
treesrockice 7 Jul Lead rpt Retro flash
Retro flash
mjeffery 3 Jul Lead O/S
with Revs
with Revs
Hidden 2 Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Jul Lead O/S
jenjenshirlaw ?Jul Lead O/S Lovely, techy number that I found my flow on
Lovely, techy number that I found my flow on
Harrietbarford 26 May Lead dog
johnhan310 26 May Lead RP Had to take on the first few bolts putting the draws in as the grease was horrifying and the moves were hard. Despite that, the route is so good that I went back to RP it. One of the best at the grade I’ve done in Portland...worthy of so many *******
Had to take on the first few bolts putting the draws in as the grease was horrifying and the moves were hard. Despite that, the route is so good that I went back to RP it. One of the best at the grade I’ve done in Portland...worthy of so many *******
Brian H 26 May Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
with Martin Slater
Sam Husband 25 May Lead dog Few tricky moves a few bolts up - my favourite of the top 50's in this area though.
Few tricky moves a few bolts up - my favourite of the top 50's in this area though.
RKirke 25 May Lead O/S
Rockmonkey1977 25 May Lead Very, very wet at the bottom today but still excellent.
Very, very wet at the bottom today but still excellent.
Stroppy 25 May Lead RP Dogged a few years ago.
Dogged a few years ago.
Ignas Va 12 May Lead dog
thunderstruck 12 May Lead RP
Matt Clifton 4 May Lead
with Helen
with Helen
bryan61 4 May Lead dog
with jjb100
with jjb100
Hidden 4 May Lead rpt
Hidden 30 Apr 2nd
emmafizzle 19 Apr Lead dnf
Spatchcock 19 Mar Lead β
MarcDorrington ?? Lead O/S
Howard4348 21 Oct, 2018 Lead
with RussB
with RussB
Edpepper 21 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
RussB 21 Oct, 2018 TR dog
blaza1 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with lizzabelle, liam jones
with lizzabelle, liam jones
katiep 16 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Joe W-O
with Joe W-O
birks3746 8 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Tough crux section then brilliant route after. Highly recommend
with Alice
Tough crux section then brilliant route after. Highly recommend
with Alice
chrisscutt 8 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
afrosam 8 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt
petegunn 22 Aug, 2018 Lead
S.Kew 22 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
Hidden 22 Aug, 2018 2nd
Michael Bortoluzzi 19 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
philhaigh 19 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
with mregueira, Noe NK, Raul Enriquez, Quitiweb, Juanjo Castill?n
with mregueira, Noe NK, Raul Enriquez, Quitiweb, Juanjo Castill?n
mregueira 19 Aug, 2018 TR dog
Phil_Brock 18 Aug, 2018 TR dog Attempted on top rope - could barely touch the lower section. Top half fine.
Attempted on top rope - could barely touch the lower section. Top half fine.
M_Robinson 6 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Ian Robinson
with Ian Robinson
adamsriches 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
hervenuttall ?Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Cotswold Crew
with Cotswold Crew
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
Bettymolly 23 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Wow. Almost came off. Extremely spoodgy
Wow. Almost came off. Extremely spoodgy
S.Kew 22 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
poeter210 16 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 16 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 16 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
Hidden 16 Jun, 2018 Lead β
N0tBiggieSmalls 9 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
RangerMcFreindly 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Even better!
with georgejl, Simone Lang, StrongDan
Even better!
with georgejl, Simone Lang, StrongDan
georgejl 9 Jun, 2018 Lead β
Dexter JW 2 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
with dbrooks
with dbrooks
dbrooks 2 Jun, 2018 Lead RP technically a RP as had tried previously
technically a RP as had tried previously
Wayne.Gaudin 20 May, 2018 Lead dog Cruxy, which I messed up.
Cruxy, which I messed up.
Wayne.Gaudin 20 May, 2018 Lead RP Went fine 2nd go
Went fine 2nd go
Paddy Bos Coe 15 May, 2018 Lead RP
tsyrett 13 May, 2018 Lead rpt
islandlynx 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Matt77
with Matt77
Matt77 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 17 Feb, 2018 Lead
Hidden ??, 2018 Lead
marcduhig 14 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
with pep
with pep
beefy_legacy 28 Aug, 2017 Lead RP 2nd go. First time messed up putting in the third draw. Easy with the quickdraws in and knowing where the holds are. Best route on Portland?
2nd go. First time messed up putting in the third draw. Easy with the quickdraws in and knowing where the holds are. Best route on Portland?
Hidden 19 Aug, 2017 Lead β
Hidden 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
James Oakes 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Steph, Theo, Sophie Keltie, Howard, Gus, Flo Barton, Wft
with Steph, Theo, Sophie Keltie, Howard, Gus, Flo Barton, Wft
Gus 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with James Oakes
with James Oakes
fennerz 6 Aug, 2017 Lead β
with Jocelyn
with Jocelyn
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 -
jsmcfarland 4 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
GrahamGiles 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Holds were really slimy but managed to crawl my way up it. Terrifying. Would be nice if dry...
with Yijing
Holds were really slimy but managed to crawl my way up it. Terrifying. Would be nice if dry...
with Yijing
Q.Estelles 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Indeed magical
Indeed magical
S.Kew 12 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Fakey Rocks 12 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Tried, but not hard enough, downclimbed without clipping b2 a few times b4 deciding to leave it for another day, hopefully shady, sun was getting to me... + Just needed to reach a bit higher.?
with S.Kew
Tried, but not hard enough, downclimbed without clipping b2 a few times b4 deciding to leave it for another day, hopefully shady, sun was getting to me... + Just needed to reach a bit higher.?
with S.Kew
rachelvlc 8 Jul, 2017 Lead
littleluke 8 Jul, 2017 Lead
Edward Kwong 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S No angry seagull this time!
No angry seagull this time!
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 TR dog
AlexRenshaw 10 Jun, 2017 Lead
SaraAlassam 10 Jun, 2017 Lead
kennythescot 3 Jun, 2017 Lead β
with Gav A
with Gav A
samparsons 3 Jun, 2017 Lead β
Hidden 2 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
RadekNowak 13 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ewa Rams
with Ewa Rams
tsyrett 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Hayley loves climbing 22 Apr, 2017 Lead β
Hidden 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
TomatoPro 19 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Attempted twice, pumpy! One rest at same place each time. Really enjoyed the upper headwall
Attempted twice, pumpy! One rest at same place each time. Really enjoyed the upper headwall
Lukechandler 19 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
etrillaud 8 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 25 Mar, 2017 2nd dog
with Dan Verge
with Dan Verge
Dandan 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Stroppy 18 Feb, 2017 Lead dog Wet and slimy :(
with RKirke
Wet and slimy :(
with RKirke
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
Wendy 2 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with Kate K
with Kate K
Rockmonkey1977 25 Sep, 2016 Lead rpt Very good climbing with the crux being a sustained section right from the start. Then it backs off but many parts are still fluffable...
Very good climbing with the crux being a sustained section right from the start. Then it backs off but many parts are still fluffable...
Hidden 24 Sep, 2016 Lead dog
cdpuk 18 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Chris Mooney, RobScarisbrick
with Chris Mooney, RobScarisbrick
afrosam 18 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Smurf-cat 18 Sep, 2016 Lead dog
nimajneb 14 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
gem_stone12 14 Sep, 2016 Lead
JackMac 7 Aug, 2016 Lead β
with Tomar
with Tomar
brian watson 6 Aug, 2016 Lead RP Great route
Great route
Jane Weir 6 Aug, 2016 2nd
joese7en 24 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
tommccluskey 7 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Amar
with Amar
hfotheri 26 Jun, 2016 Lead dog Watch out for birds nesting on the route next door
Watch out for birds nesting on the route next door
Hidden 25 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
littleluke 14 May, 2016 Lead rpt
chris_woodsy 24 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Widda
with Widda
Nick Russell 16 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Probably the nicest of the headwall cracks, but with a stiff crux low down.
Probably the nicest of the headwall cracks, but with a stiff crux low down.
Caspian Johnson 14 Mar, 2016 Lead β
with ollie_e
with ollie_e
Hidden 14 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 5 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S lovely climb.
with Tom Hudson, Katsmiff
lovely climb.
with Tom Hudson, Katsmiff
Katsmiff 5 Sep, 2015 TR dog Really enjoyed this climb. Shouldn't have fallen really...ran outta strength.
Really enjoyed this climb. Shouldn't have fallen really...ran outta strength.
elliptic 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tash K.
with Tash K.
Sophie Nunn 6 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Ally Smith 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Stiff warm up - got a flash pump!
Stiff warm up - got a flash pump!
Luke Owens 25 Jul, 2015 Lead G/U Greased off the start, so hot that day but an excellent line!
Greased off the start, so hot that day but an excellent line!
Hidden 18 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt
Flavio 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with robinge
with robinge
dswansonlow 10 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
with Alex Banks
Kevster 21 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Seagulls at the top attacking
Seagulls at the top attacking
tonevert 21 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
Kris suriyo 21 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2015 Lead
Hidden 10 May, 2015 TR dog
hankyc 4 May, 2015 Lead O/S Really nice long pitch which eases and gets better and better!
Really nice long pitch which eases and gets better and better!
td72 ?May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Mike M, bryan61
with Mike M, bryan61
Hidden 19 Apr, 2015 Lead rpt
Russell Blackaller 19 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Climb
with Climb
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Gem Minihan 18 Apr, 2015 TR dog First climb post-op
with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, nataliehaigh
First climb post-op
with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, nataliehaigh
Dibdawg 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Dean177
with Dean177
Dean177 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Dibdawg
with Dibdawg
dbrooks 18 Jan, 2015 Lead dog Came off clipping 3rd bolt then finished clean. Pumped at the end of the day
Came off clipping 3rd bolt then finished clean. Pumped at the end of the day
Bristoldave 4 Jan, 2015 Lead β
with Luke
with Luke
kingborris ??, 2015 -
Hidden 13 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 13 Sep, 2014 Lead β
Rockmonkey1977 13 Sep, 2014 Lead dog Nice climbing but the bottom was very, very greasy.
Nice climbing but the bottom was very, very greasy.
Thumbspragger 10 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
Thumbspragger 22 Aug, 2014 Lead dog 1 fall
with msyea
1 fall
with msyea
Hidden 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Rosea Day 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2014 2nd
Vince 3 Aug, 2014 Lead RP
with Eric Pieuchot
with Eric Pieuchot
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 Lead rpt
Hidden 22 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Jun, 2014 Lead dog
BenL 22 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
with Angus Webb
robbo99 22 Jun, 2014 Lead dog Despite multiple attempts, couldnt figure the low crux for a clean ascent. Great route and worth returning for
Despite multiple attempts, couldnt figure the low crux for a clean ascent. Great route and worth returning for
Graham Westbrook 5 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
philhaigh 15 May, 2014 Lead RP
with AlexD, Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Ed Babs, Barry Kerslake, melD, Murray Freestone, Gem Minihan, nataliehaigh
with AlexD, Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Ed Babs, Barry Kerslake, melD, Murray Freestone, Gem Minihan, nataliehaigh
Lee_Meaden 5 May, 2014 TR dog
funsized 3 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Antony87 13 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt
with Jesus Joe, Mars
with Jesus Joe, Mars
LucasHarazin 5 Oct, 2013 Lead β
Peter Lovell 5 Oct, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 3 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
mark20 3 Sep, 2013 Lead β
maybe_si 1 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
redjerry 22 Aug, 2013 TR O/S Damp, felt 6c
Damp, felt 6c
Hidden 21 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Aug, 2013 2nd
Dan_Carroll 11 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Iain
with Iain
Ian Bell 29 Jun, 2013 Lead dog Stopped at the crux
Stopped at the crux
Jay-Ast 20 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
with Rosyk
julesmckim 16 Jun, 2013 Lead dog
with Alex Renshaw
with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 15 Jun, 2013 Lead
Luke Dawson 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S
3 Names 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 May, 2013 Lead
littleluke 5 May, 2013 -
Daniel 20 Aug, 2012 Lead
with Jasmina Saric
with Jasmina Saric
CRiddiford 29 Jul, 2012 Lead dog fingers slipped off just before making the move that finishes the crux, oh well
fingers slipped off just before making the move that finishes the crux, oh well
BeccaSnowden 29 Jul, 2012 Lead RP Really hard crux move
Really hard crux move
Hidden 21 Jul, 2012 Lead β
John Mcshea 16 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
billb ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
tt85 31 May, 2012 Lead dog More stamina needed, no hard moves - definitely one to come back to.
More stamina needed, no hard moves - definitely one to come back to.
AlexD 28 May, 2012 Lead RP
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
nataliehaigh 26 May, 2012 2nd dog
philhaigh 26 May, 2012 Lead dog
yarrow 21 May, 2012 TR O/S
with Mark C, Laurence Everitt
with Mark C, Laurence Everitt
Hidden 20 May, 2012 Lead RP
Harry Thorpe 20 May, 2012 Lead O/S Hard (for the grade) starting moves followed by juggy climbing on superb rock. Stunning.
with Mark Chev
Hard (for the grade) starting moves followed by juggy climbing on superb rock. Stunning.
with Mark Chev
Hidden 11 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
paultaylor 7 Jan, 2012 Lead
with Grant, matt_read
with Grant, matt_read
Hidden 7 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
phillipwright ??, 2012 Lead dog
with James Kingswood
with James Kingswood
Tommyads ??, 2012 -
Danny Crump 15 Oct, 2011 2nd
with Andrew Porter, Michael Porter, LiL Saz
with Andrew Porter, Michael Porter, LiL Saz
Hidden 15 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
with anna barnes
tt85 4 Sep, 2011 Lead dog
with tom106
with tom106
Hidden 31 Aug, 2011 Lead RP
Alex More 25 Aug, 2011 Lead dog
with Ed babs
with Ed babs
Hidden 25 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
brian watson 11 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
with neil weymouth
with neil weymouth
philhilo 14 May, 2011 Lead dog Fell off same place as misha, seemed very strenous on the crux, maybe not warmed up enough?
with Misha
Fell off same place as misha, seemed very strenous on the crux, maybe not warmed up enough?
with Misha
Misha 14 May, 2011 Lead dog Foot slipped off on the crux and I fell off, how embarrassing! The crux felt pretty hard for the grade.
Foot slipped off on the crux and I fell off, how embarrassing! The crux felt pretty hard for the grade.
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
slav ?Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jun, 2010 Lead
thomasmouse 24 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 24 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with marcus
with marcus
Hidden 31 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??, 2010 -
eroica64 2 Aug, 2009 TR dog Hard crux sequence on finger sidepulls and then quite sustained afterwards.
with Audrey
Hard crux sequence on finger sidepulls and then quite sustained afterwards.
with Audrey
feilx 26 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Bob & Andy S
with Bob & Andy S
bigie bob 26 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 May, 2009 TR O/S
briar4012 10 May, 2009 TR dnf
with Jane Weir
with Jane Weir
dannyboy83 12 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with garburn
with garburn
garburn 12 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
La Mont ??, 2009 -
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
Matt Bennett 17 Sep, 2008 Lead rpt
Andrew Barker 12 Aug, 2008 Lead β
with Matt Booth
with Matt Booth
Ed Babs 12 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with Roger
with Roger
tonanf ?Nov, 2007 AltLd RP
with Pep
with Pep
tobydunford 28 Aug, 2007 Lead dog
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
a_radiohead_fan ?Oct, 2006 -
Richard Horn 13 Aug, 2006 Lead RP
shoulders 14 Jul, 2006 Lead
with marric
with marric
Hidden ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
feeko ??, 2006 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2004 -
Kev Little ??, 2004 Lead O/S
just one more 15 Sep, 2002 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
with tim b, Svenn G
Rock Fairy ?Jun, 2002 2nd
with david
with david
goi.ashmore 10 Apr, 2002 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
with Andy Howe
John Southworth ??, 2001 -
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2001 -
duncan 20 May, 2000 Lead O/S
with Phillipe
with Phillipe
Robmwatt ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden 6 Apr, 1996 Lead
bruce ??, 1996 -
Hidden ?Oct, 1995 Lead O/S
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 47
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set