Rockfax Description
A magical wall climb. Start in the middle of the steepest section of the wall. Climb the fingery lower-wall with conviction to finish up a thin crack in the compact face above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 25.6.95 25/Jun/1995

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland, Spanish crew 2018.

adamsriches 08/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun Lead rpt
Bettymolly 23/Jun Lead O/S

Wow. Almost came off. Extremely spoodgy

S.Kew 22/Jun Lead rpt
poeter210 16/Jun Lead dog
riff156 16/Jun Lead dog
riff156 16/Jun Lead rpt
with druss
Hidden 16/Jun Lead β
N0tBiggieSmalls 09/Jun Lead dog
RangerMcFreindly 09/Jun Lead O/S

Even better!

with Levey, Simone Lang, StrongDan
Dexter JW 02/Jun Lead dog
with dbrooks
dbrooks 02/Jun Lead RP

technically a RP as had tried previously

Wayne.Gaudin 20/May Lead dog

Cruxy, which I messed up.

Wayne.Gaudin 20/May Lead RP

Went fine 2nd go

tsyrett 13/May Lead rpt
islandlynx 12/May Lead O/S
with Matt77
Matt77 12/May Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Feb Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 17/Feb Lead
marcduhig 14/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with pep
beefy_legacy 28/Aug/17 Lead RP

2nd go. First time messed up putting in the third draw. Easy with the quickdraws in and knowing where the holds are. Best route on Portland?

Hidden 19/Aug/17 Lead β
Hidden 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
James Oakes 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Steph, Theo, Sophie Keltie, Howard, Gus, Flo Barton, Wft
Gus 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with James Oakes
fennerz 06/Aug/17 Lead β
with Jocelyn
ella.thorne5 05/Aug/17 -
tim.fairhall 04/Aug/17 Lead dog
with Sachi
GrahamGiles 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Holds were really slimy but managed to crawl my way up it. Terrifying. Would be nice if dry...

with Yijing
Q.Estelles 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Indeed magical

S.Kew 12/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Fakey Rocks 12/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Tried, but not hard enough, downclimbed without clipping b2 a few times b4 deciding to leave it for another day, hopefully shady, sun was getting to me... + Just needed to reach a bit higher.?

with S.Kew
rachelvlc 08/Jul/17 Lead
littleluke 08/Jul/17 Lead
Edward Kwong 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S

No angry seagull this time!

Hidden 17/Jun/17 TR dog
AlexRenshaw 10/Jun/17 Lead
SaraAlassam 10/Jun/17 Lead
kennythescot 03/Jun/17 Lead β
with Gav A
samparsons 03/Jun/17 Lead β
Hidden 02/Jun/17 Lead dog
RadekNowak 13/May/17 Lead O/S
with Ewa Rams
tsyrett 07/May/17 Lead O/S
Hayley loves climbing 22/Apr/17 Lead β
Hidden 22/Apr/17 Lead O/S
TomatoPro 19/Apr/17 Lead dog

Attempted twice, pumpy! One rest at same place each time. Really enjoyed the upper headwall

Lukechandler 19/Apr/17 Lead O/S
etrillaud 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 25/Mar/17 2nd dog
with Dan Verge
Dandan82 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Stroppy 18/Feb/17 Lead dog

Wet and slimy :(

with RKirke
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Wendy 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Kate K
Rockmonkey1977 25/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Very good climbing with the crux being a sustained section right from the start. Then it backs off but many parts are still fluffable...

Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead dog
cdpuk 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Mooney, RobScarisbrick
afrosam 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 18/Sep/16 Lead dog
nimajneb 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S
gem_stone12 14/Sep/16 Lead
JackMac 07/Aug/16 Lead β
with Tomar
brian watson 06/Aug/16 Lead RP

Great route

Jane Weir 06/Aug/16 2nd
joese7en 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
tommccluskey 07/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Amar
hfotheri 26/Jun/16 Lead dog

Watch out for birds nesting on the route next door

Hidden 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
littleluke 14/May/16 Lead rpt
chris_woodsy 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Widda
Nick Russell 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Probably the nicest of the headwall cracks, but with a stiff crux low down.

Caspian Johnson 14/Mar/16 Lead β
with ollie_e
ollie_e 14/Mar/16 Lead O/S


Martin Bagshaw 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

lovely climb.

with Tom Hudson, Katsmiff
Katsmiff 05/Sep/15 TR dog

Really enjoyed this climb. Shouldn't have fallen really...ran outta strength.

elliptic 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tash K.
Sophie Nunn 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Ed Babs
Ally Smith 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Stiff warm up - got a flash pump!

Luke Owens 25/Jul/15 Lead G/U

Greased off the start, so hot that day but an excellent line!

tash 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with ali k
Flavio 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with robinge
dswansonlow 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
Kevster 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Seagulls at the top attacking

tonevert 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
Kris suriyo 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 10/May/15 TR dog
hankyc 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Really nice long pitch which eases and gets better and better!

td72 ?/May/15 Lead O/S
with Mike M, bryan61
Russell Blackaller 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Climb
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Gem Minihan 18/Apr/15 TR dog

First climb post-op

with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, nataliehaigh
Dibdawg 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Dean177
Dean177 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Dibdawg
dbrooks 18/Jan/15 Lead dog

Came off clipping 3rd bolt then finished clean. Pumped at the end of the day

Bristoldave 04/Jan/15 Lead β
with Luke
kingborris ??/2015 -
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead β
Rockmonkey1977 13/Sep/14 Lead dog

Nice climbing but the bottom was very, very greasy.

Sam4242 10/Sep/14 Lead dog
Sam4242 22/Aug/14 Lead dog

1 fall

with msyea
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Rosea Day 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 09/Aug/14 2nd
with ali k
Vince 03/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Eric Pieuchot
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead dog
BenL 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
robbo99 22/Jun/14 Lead dog

Despite multiple attempts, couldnt figure the low crux for a clean ascent. Great route and worth returning for

Graham Westbrook 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 15/May/14 Lead RP
with AlexD, Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Ed Babs, Barry Kerslake, melD, Murray Freestone, Gem Minihan, nataliehaigh
Lee_Meaden 05/May/14 TR dog
funsized 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
LucasHarazin 05/Oct/13 Lead β
Peter Lovell 05/Oct/13 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
mark20 03/Sep/13 Lead β
maybe_si 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
redjerry 22/Aug/13 TR O/S

Damp, felt 6c

Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd
Dan_Carroll 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Iain
Ian Bell 29/Jun/13 Lead dog

Stopped at the crux

Jay-Ast 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
julesmckim 16/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 15/Jun/13 Lead
Luke Dawson 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead
littleluke 05/May/13 -
Daniel 20/Aug/12 Lead
with Jasmina Saric
CRiddiford 29/Jul/12 Lead dog

fingers slipped off just before making the move that finishes the crux, oh well

BeccaSnowden 29/Jul/12 Lead RP

Really hard crux move

Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead β
John Mcshea 16/Jul/12 Lead O/S
billb ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead dog
AlexD 28/May/12 Lead RP
with Ed Babs
nataliehaigh 26/May/12 2nd dog
philhaigh 26/May/12 Lead dog
yarrow 21/May/12 TR O/S
with Mark C, Laurence Everitt
Laurence Everitt 20/May/12 Lead RP
with Mark Chevasut, yarrow, Harry Thorpe
Harry Thorpe 20/May/12 Lead O/S

Hard (for the grade) starting moves followed by juggy climbing on superb rock. Stunning.

with Mark Chev
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
paultaylor 07/Jan/12 Lead
with Grant, matt_read
Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead dog
with James Kingswood
Tommyads ??/2012 -
Danny Crump 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Andrew Porter, Michael Porter, LiL Saz
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead dog
Linc 31/Aug/11 Lead RP
Alex More 25/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Ed babs
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
brian watson 11/Jun/11 Lead dog
with neil weymouth
philhilo 14/May/11 Lead dog

Fell off same place as misha, seemed very strenous on the crux, maybe not warmed up enough?

with Misha
Misha 14/May/11 Lead dog

Foot slipped off on the crux and I fell off, how embarrassing! The crux felt pretty hard for the grade.

Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
slav ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/10 Lead
thomasmouse 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with marcus
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
eroica64 02/Aug/09 TR dog

Hard crux sequence on finger sidepulls and then quite sustained afterwards.

with Audrey
feilx 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Bob & Andy S
bigie bob 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 TR O/S
briar4012 10/May/09 TR dnf
with Jane Weir
dannyboy83 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with garburn
garburn 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
La Mont ??/2009 -
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Matt Bennett 17/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/08 Lead β
with Matt Booth
Ed Babs 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Roger
tonanf ?/Nov/07 AltLd RP
with Pep
tobydunford 28/Aug/07 Lead dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
Richard Horn 13/Aug/06 Lead RP
shoulders 14/Jul/06 Lead
with marric
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 -
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
just one more 15/Sep/02 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
John Southworth ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2001 -
duncan 20/May/00 Lead O/S
with Phillipe
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/96 Lead
bruce ??/1996 -
Hidden ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
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High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set