Rockfax Description
A great route - nicely sustained and varied - that features a tricky no-hands rest and, near the top, one of the best finger locks around. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 3.1.88 03/Jan/1988

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Winspit apprenticeship, SW Climbs - Swanage, Winspit Sport Climbs, Memorable Climbs.

Hidden 09/Dec/17 TR
AlexRenshaw 26/Nov/17 Lead
julesmckim 26/Nov/17 Lead rpt

Great the second time and perhaps more entertaining as was pumped from the first moves and had to dig deep

julesmckim 10/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Superb all the way! Great fun in early winter sun. Found the no hands rest without looking. Got a bit stressy at the top

with Rob Smart
Mike Weatherill 05/Nov/17 Lead
with Vicky Weatherill
adamsriches 28/Oct/17 Lead dog
Sam4242 28/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Sofi
rocksound 08/Oct/17 TR dog
John Elliott 16/Aug/17 TR dnf
with Jeffrey Davies
Phippy 13/Aug/17 TR rpt
mikeyjbs 05/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Idoia
Jan Masat 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Steve Hickie 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S
haribotheclimber 06/Jul/17 Lead rpt
katy_abra 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Rob Gibson
Pete Scott 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
tsyrett 24/Jun/17 Lead rpt
Aaron.Clifford 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S
GrahamGiles 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Pumpy as hell! Fell off just after clipping the top chains...

haribotheclimber 22/Jun/17 Lead rpt
haribotheclimber 15/Jun/17 Lead RP
with Ed babs
RussB 14/Jun/17 TR dog

Howard lead with plenty rests. I top roped 2 rests. Lovely climb.

with Howard, Jas
Hidden 11/Jun/17 Lead dog
islandlynx 11/Jun/17 Lead dnf

shut down by the groove, too late in the weekend.

with Horton
Carl 10/Jun/17 Lead RP

Second go, great climb!

GouldHarry 28/May/17 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 20/May/17 Lead dog
with Idoia
mishabruml 12/May/17 Lead RP

Finally came back to finish it! Felt so easy after 8 months in Spain.... That no hands rest is amazing, really unlikely looking. Climbing in to the rest is the crux

with Callum Nelson
mathesar 07/May/17 Lead dnf

hang till the penultimate bolt

Hidden 07/May/17 Lead dog
gem_stone12 03/May/17 Lead RP
nimajneb 03/May/17 Lead
Oliver Smaje 19/Apr/17 Lead dog

Just couldn't beat that pump.

with Beth
ricci.andrea86 ?/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Bettymolly ??/2017 Lead dog
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Mark Stevenson 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 09/Oct/16 Lead dog
with Idoia
littleluke 08/Oct/16 Lead RP
mop449 01/Oct/16 Lead RP

Felt super hard on the onsight effort. Found the "awkward" no hands rest coming down and sent it next go. Great climb.

with Sara Sha'ath, Sam Garland
Marti999 20/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Debbie
Adam Willison 09/Sep/16 Lead β
RadekNowak 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

nice, varied climbing. Technical in places

with Peeto
Hidden 05/Aug/16 TR
ArrMcC 04/Aug/16 Lead dog

What is going on with the bolts? There is a big gap after the second. Then about 3 in 2 meters. Looks messy. 2 lower offs too. I fell from third bolt and very almost hit the ground. Besides all that, the route itself is fantastic!

with Chloe
elliptic 31/Jul/16 Lead RP

Dogged up to put draws in, then redpointed first go.

with Dawn
tim.fairhall 22/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 22/Jul/16 Lead G/U

Boom! What a amazing route really enjoyed this one, got it second try ground up. Found the sneaky rest in the corner gave me just enough back to clip the chains. Surely that's one of the best jams around at the top too? Well pleased with this bad boy!

samparsons 17/Jul/16 Lead RP

First tried 21 Mar 2015

afrosam 07/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 07/Jul/16 Lead dog
Linc 05/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Kay
La Mont 22/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with AlexD
jezb1 10/Jun/16 Lead RP

Clean first go today

jezb1 06/Jun/16 Lead

Fluffed it clipping the 3rd bolt, grabbed the draw, felt along way above the 2nd!

paultaylor 06/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Euge401 06/Jun/16 Lead RP
Honey badger 93 05/Jun/16 Lead RP
cdpuk 05/Jun/16 Lead dog


charles-green 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Lovely moves

BenL 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Emma
paultaylor 25/May/16 Lead rpt
with Jimbo
Ian Bell 08/May/16 Lead dog

1 lead and 2 TR goes. Excellent route although felt tough. Good 3D climbing and felt like a full body workout! Will be back for it ;-)

with Tania T
fraserbarrett 08/May/16 TR
alexspurling 30/Apr/16 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/16 Lead dnf
Kris suriyo 09/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Gary
bede.west 03/Apr/16 Lead dog

Upset to drop the flash but hey ho it was wet, serves me right

Roland stopps ??/2016 Lead dog
bede.west ??/2016 Lead RP

So much easier when dry ha ha, warmed then climbed it putting the clips in.

Martin Bagshaw 11/Oct/15 Lead dog

Went the wrong way stupidly, completely mis- read the no hands rest. Gutted as I could of made the onsight. Very nice route.

with Rafal Malczyk
Dandan82 27/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Danhan 12/Sep/15 2nd dog

Dogged all the way

with Scott, Mark
mark schramm 12/Sep/15 TR dog
jonleighton 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
luke384 30/Aug/15 2nd RP
with matty
Mattlamb90 30/Aug/15 Lead dog

Major Beer Shakes, Fell off a sweaty last hold not even pumped, couldn't be bothered to even get back on.

with Ryan, Luke
will smith11 29/Aug/15 Lead β
Edward Kwong 21/Aug/15 Lead RP

Lovely climb, fun working out the sequence. Opportunities for 2 decent rests (one no hands at halfway, one wide bridge slightly higher up). My first 6c+, clean 2nd go :)

john rensten 18/Aug/15 Lead RP
Neal Jobling 18/Aug/15 Lead RP
with John Rensten
dom94 09/Aug/15 Lead RP

Fluffed the onsight after completely missing the no hands rest, got it the next time. Cracking route, that crack at the top is epic

k_k 02/Aug/15 Lead RP
el_monty 23/Jul/15 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 23/Jul/15 Lead β

Have been up to third bolt previously, beta flash the rest today. Feels run out between 2nd and 3rd bolt, but rest is lovely.

TomJ 19/Jul/15 Lead RP

Awesome route, and great for learning a few technical tricks on! - I think if it wasn't for the no-hander (which is exactly where you need it!) it would definitely be a 7a...

with Kuang
Sami Mandeel 14/Jul/15 2nd dog
etrillaud 21/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead RP
chris_woodsy 20/Jun/15 Lead RP
Matt.c.Warner 19/Jun/15 Lead O/S
ian d f 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Missed the mid-height rest, but it still wasn't too bad

with Adam, Richard J
Hidden 27/May/15 Lead dog
Hidden 27/May/15 Lead dog
goi.ashmore 27/May/15 Lead RP
with Alice Howe
Papa J Love 10/May/15 Lead dnf

Accidentally started this thinking it was So Naughty (5a), got to the first clip!

with Ashley Long, Rob Edwards, Tessa Wiggens
professorcobra 03/May/15 Lead dog
JUSTADUDE 20/Apr/15 Lead dog

Was a lot harder than I had remembered?

with Shane
paultaylor 20/Apr/15 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/15 TR dnf
tsyrett 06/Apr/15 Lead RP

Great route, the climbing is so varied, it's taken me a while to get this one and finally got it on my 4th attempt today which made it even better.

rachelvlc 05/Apr/15 2nd
mr_cf 05/Apr/15 Lead dog
anthony henry 05/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Ali
Matti Puckridge ?/Apr/15 Lead
Matti Puckridge 15/Mar/15 -
CristinaB 18/Jan/15 TR dog
Hidden 18/Jan/15 Lead dog
tsyrett 06/Dec/14 Lead dog
tsyrett 06/Dec/14 TR RP

Tricky to find a comfortable rest after the third bolt

jezb1 05/Dec/14 2nd

Lots of rests, no one mega hard move, but full on.

Hidden 29/Nov/14 Lead O/S
josh Bamsey 20/Sep/14 Lead RP
jacobjlloyd 14/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Peach
Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead dog
Barry Kerslake 05/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Gem
philhaigh 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Gem Minihan, Natalie Haigh
Gem Minihan 05/Sep/14 TR dog
philhaigh 05/Sep/14 Lead RP
Gem Minihan 30/Aug/14 TR dnf
robbo99 30/Aug/14 Lead dog
robbo99 30/Aug/14 TR dog

Almost made it to the no hands rest. Hard climbing

ollyisaclimber 18/Aug/14 Lead RP
JUSTADUDE 20/Jul/14 TR β

Did it at the end of the day, took a fall the first time. Did it a second time and got it clean! Favorite route of the day, will come back and lead =]

Rory Bascombe 16/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Dad
RFWilkie 13/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Jul/14 TR dog
Andy Smallwood 03/Jul/14 Lead β
anthony henry 02/Jul/14 Lead RP
Alex Hallam 14/Jun/14 TR dog

Top route, the 'rest' is pretty killer for the left foot but think it will go when feeling stronger.

rustaldo 14/Jun/14 Lead RP

Really good route, fell off just short of the rest which was a shame. First half is probably tougher than the top, just need to make full use of the rest.

with Alex
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead dog
nath_casper 18/May/14 Lead RP
paultaylor 06/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
mishabruml 22/Apr/14 TR dnf

Edit 16/04/2015: Came back! Tried after a whole day of trad... rock was dry but I still couldn't do it. Got a bit further than last time though! *** Bit damp and at the end of the session meant I didn't reach the chains... great route though, will be coming back!

with Matt King
Beefy Bert ??/2014 Lead RP
Shane Willis ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Nov/13 Lead RP
paultaylor 10/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with Tom P
Hidden 09/Nov/13 Lead dog
Cheese Monkey 02/Nov/13 Lead dog

3 goes and nearly had it. Beaten by pump. Many ways to do the crux but none easy!

with Ian M
Jay81 20/Sep/13 Lead RP
Monkey_Alan 12/Sep/13 Lead RP

Second try tonight.

Monkey_Alan 10/Sep/13 Lead dog

Worked out the crux, then messed up clipping the third bolt. Much faffing led to being too pumped and had to rest on the bolts.

AlexD 10/Sep/13 Lead RP

Really is the best finger-lock in the world - totally saved me when my foot slipped!

AlexD 30/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ed
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Jon_Warner 03/Aug/13 Lead dog

Good route. One to come back to clean.

with Jenni
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/13 2nd β
LucasHarazin 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 31/Jul/13 Lead RP

First RP, tricky.

Dan Lane 31/Jul/13 TR dog

Didn't feel to hard, certainly doable with a couple more goes.

Luxulyan 19/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Martin, Sophie
Kris suriyo 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Luxulyan 03/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Alan
marcb 30/Jun/13 TR dog
with Ed Ratcliffe, Martin Evans
Hidden 12/May/13 Lead O/S
nimajneb ??/2013 Lead O/S
cymjt ??/2013 -
Hidden 06/Nov/12 Lead RP
martin one 27/Oct/12 TR dog
with joel
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Sep/12 TR dog
Hidden 28/Aug/12 Lead RP
gibsond 28/Aug/12 TR dog

Need to get stronger to lead this route - don't feel comfortable at the start or the middle.

GPN 25/Aug/12 Lead
with Annette
Dibdawg 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Wayne Gaudin, Dean Merchant
Dean177 08/Aug/12 Lead dog
with Wayne Gaudin, Alan Dibben
Hidden 28/Jul/12 TR dog
Hidden 01/Jul/12 TR dog
Jonathan Emett 01/Jul/12 Lead RP

2nd go. much easier when you know which holds are good!

with Paul
cooperman 26/Jun/12 Lead RP

Second go. Fab, technical climbing

with Greg Foster
Stuart Johnston 24/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Ian, Daniel Tipton
dswansonlow 02/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead β
Monkey_Alan 15/May/12 TR dog
matt_read 13/May/12 Lead dog

best route of the lot!

paultaylor 13/May/12 Lead β
Monkey_Alan 01/May/12 TR dog

3x. Still not worked out how to get through the crux.

gibsond 01/May/12 TR dog

Last route of the night. Think I was pulled up lots of it, but did get to the top.

Justin T 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Really nice sustained and technical route!

Kevster 15/Apr/12 Lead RP

2nd attempt, 3rd bolt felt airy on OS.

Graham Westbrook 13/Apr/12 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Alex Dennis, Sophie Nunn
nath_casper 07/Jan/12 Lead dog
Thinker01 03/Dec/11 Lead dog
with Kev Stott
Thinker01 03/Dec/11 TR RP
with Kev Stott
nath_casper 20/Nov/11 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Sep/11 TR dog
Hidden 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Chris_barr 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Theo, Bob
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 26/Jul/11 Lead RP
with James Bisset
Sophie Nunn 26/Jul/11 TR rpt
with James Bisset
BicepAndrews 12/Jul/11 Lead RP
keithpeck 12/Jul/11 Lead RP
Linc 03/Jul/11 Lead rpt
j miller ?/Jul/11 Lead
brian watson 14/Jun/11 TR dog
Sophie Nunn 14/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Brian
Linc 01/Jun/11 Lead RP
ASchwirtz 29/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 29/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 10/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 10/May/11 TR RP
gibsond 10/May/11 TR dnf

Got cold before and did not get started really.

Hidden 05/May/11 TR dnf
AlexD 05/May/11 Lead dog
with Sophie
Monkey_Alan 05/May/11 TR dog
Sophie Nunn 05/May/11 TR dog
with Alex
JonBrown 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
with Murray
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead RP
robajob 06/Apr/11 Lead RP
cayteye 02/Apr/11 TR dog

a poss red point one day when i'm stronger - did all the moves but not enough stamina to link them

Hidden 25/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Mar/11 TR rpt
London Luke 26/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/10 TR dog
ThomasB ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dandan82 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead dog
thomasmouse 25/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 25/May/10 Lead dnf
La benya 14/May/10 Lead rpt

i didn't manage to find the no hands rest or the bloody fingerlock... i was excited too. easy climbing, just pumpy and must get your hands in the right order through the crux

uncontrollable 13/May/10 TR dog
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead rpt
tom106 26/Apr/10 Lead
with mike robbins
crispygts ??/2010 -
JonS 22/Dec/09 Lead RP
dswansonlow 28/Nov/09 Lead dnf
with John Brown
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Oct/09 TR dog
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead dog
tobydunford 18/Oct/09 Lead rpt
with Charlie
Warren Earle 17/Sep/09 TR dog
with Javi
Javis 17/Sep/09 TR
with Warren
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead dog
dmoir 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Andy Lamont
tobydunford 10/May/09 Lead dog
with Charlie
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
riddle 16/Nov/08 Lead dog
trevor macalonan 31/Oct/08 Lead dnf
with Richy
sam_cox ?/Oct/08 Lead β
Ed Babs 08/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Harry
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd
brian watson ?/Aug/08 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead O/S
tobydunford 26/May/08 Lead dog
JPGR 08/May/08 Lead O/S
with Steve
Richard Horn 20/Apr/08 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Mar/08 Lead rpt
Docent 12/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with stecu
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Lead rpt
Oliver Sherman 07/Oct/07 Lead RP
jchenoweth 30/Sep/07 TR dog
with Alfie
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead dog
dannyboy83 11/Jun/07 Lead O/S
hippo99 ?/May/07 Lead RP

nice route

Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 16/Sep/06 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Jun/06 2nd dog
dan gibson ?/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with eddie church
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dnf
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
shoulders 11/Apr/04 Lead
with maria, mart, chrisevans, dai
clark alston ?/Jan/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/99 Lead O/S
Roget 29/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
migs493 15/Mar/98 Lead dog
with Steve Blake
kp64zl ?/Mar/97 TR
rob.grafton 10/Jun/96 2nd dnf
with Bruce
Mark Kemball 23/Jul/95 Lead dog
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden 25/Jun/95 Lead RP
Bruce Kerr 12/Apr/95 Lead
with Perric Crellin
steve taylor ??/1995 Lead
Nigel Coe 03/Jan/88 2nd dog

FA, trad, 2 rest points

with Tim Dunsby
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High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set