The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.
User attention
The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023
Rockfax Description
The refined and well-travelled wall and crack climbing is very sustained and tiring, even though most of the handholds are positive. Start up a tricky initial wall and then move up right to tackle a short crack, flake and final hand-crack. © Rockfax
FA. Tim Dunsby 20/Dec/1987.
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Winspit apprenticeship , Orange Spot Swanage , SW Climbs - Swanage , Winspit Sport Climbs , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Winspit Sport Climbs , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Swanage Sport Routes , Dorset 2-3* 6a's
User | Date | Notes | ||
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naylers | 2 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Fantastic route; has a bit of everything involved jamming, lay-offs and crimps. Couple of polished holds but doesn’t take anything away from the climb. | ||
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βeta: Fantastic route; has a bit of everything involved jamming, lay-offs and crimps. Couple of polished holds but doesn’t take anything away from the climb. |
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Alex More | 15 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Perfect 6a and you get to sit up and look out when its all over! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Perfect 6a and you get to sit up and look out when its all over! |
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Tom Beaumont | 23 Oct, 2001 |
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βeta: excellent route, hardest at the top, hand jams help | ||
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βeta: excellent route, hardest at the top, hand jams help |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)