As girdles go this is something of a classic. The first pitch is worth it in its own right. Start below the tapering groove that dreams are made of.1) 6b, 30m. Gain the flake and follow it as it becomes the groove. Make some shapes to reach a ledge at its top, then move up and right to the Central Sadness belay.2) 5c, 10m. Climb Central Sadness to the perched flake at the base of the finger-crack and belay.3) 6b, 47m. Traverse right to the bolt on Sombre Music then climb up to gain further protection 3m above before descending again to the bolt. Move right again, past a bolt, to gain The Big Sur. Move up to another bolt and a brief respite, then drop down and move right below an overlap to gain Waves of Inspiration and another bolt. Move right for 3m and then up Waves of Inspiration. At the break 6m below the top, head up and rightwards on jugs to the top. © Rockfax
The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)
Llanberis Slate *** Routes
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Grade: E6 6a ***
(Craig yr Aderyn (Bird Rock))
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