18m.

Rockfax Description
Take the flake to its end then finish direct. The route is low in the grade and has good gear most of the way but the finish feels bold and also a bit crusty. © Rockfax

FA. Malc Baxter (1 peg) 1959. FFA Loz Francomb 1979

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors)

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UserDateNotes
Cake 1 May Show βeta
βeta: Old, rusty peg at the top
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Old, rusty peg at the top
MeMeMe 23 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Beware the crappy surface rock on the top of the route. My hand-hold just disintegrated as I was topping out and I fell off, stopping about 2/3rds of the way down the route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beware the crappy surface rock on the top of the route. My hand-hold just disintegrated as I was topping out and I fell off, stopping about 2/3rds of the way down the route.
goi.ashmore 2 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'd go with the comments about being harder than bring me sunshine, but there is good gear at the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd go with the comments about being harder than bring me sunshine, but there is good gear at the top.
Carl Smethurst 1 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This is considerably harder (and bolder) than Bring Me Sunshine - swap the grades and they would be about right. Where is the 'good gear' at the top if you go direct? - 15 feet of no gear at all, unless you escape to the right!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is considerably harder (and bolder) than Bring Me Sunshine - swap the grades and they would be about right. Where is the 'good gear' at the top if you go direct? - 15 feet of no gear at all, unless you escape to the right!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dave Turnbull, BMC 29 Aug Lead rpt
with Kasia
with Kasia
sambamlam 28 Aug TR dnf
Matt Harle 8 Aug Lead O/S
Binigo 8 Aug Lead β
RM199 7 May Lead dog 1 rest. Some pre placed gear. Steep
1 rest. Some pre placed gear. Steep
Hidden 7 May Lead G/U
Cake 1 May Lead O/S Didn't notice any slab! direct top made it more E2
Didn't notice any slab! direct top made it more E2
tylerc91 6 Apr TR
AdamFreeman 6 Apr TR dog Placed the gear to see what it was like, but didn't fancy trying to lead it yet.
Placed the gear to see what it was like, but didn't fancy trying to lead it yet.
Hidden 8 Oct, 2018 2nd rpt
Longsufferingropeholder 23 Sep, 2018 TR rpt
Hidden 30 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
Dave Turnbull, BMC 21 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Mike Hutton
with Mike Hutton
g1m147 4 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Mick.
with Mick.
steveb2006 17 Jul, 2018 Lead Harder than I remember but then the grade has gone up.
Harder than I remember but then the grade has gone up.
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 TR rpt
manwithacam 28 Jun, 2018 2nd This has got a solid move on it mid way. Worthwhile route
with the grist
This has got a solid move on it mid way. Worthwhile route
with the grist
The Grist 28 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt Pumpy.
with Dan Metcalfe
Pumpy.
with Dan Metcalfe
codenamel 15 May, 2018 Lead O/S
phil64 3 May, 2018 Lead O/S Good climbing, think easy E2 rather than hard E1!
with Dave Turnbull
Good climbing, think easy E2 rather than hard E1!
with Dave Turnbull
markvaughan 27 Oct, 2017 2nd
with FelixJT
with FelixJT
FelixJT 27 Oct, 2017 Lead dog bit wet
bit wet
Bryan M 20 Sep, 2017 TR
with Pero
with Pero
Pero 20 Sep, 2017 TR
Jack jk 2 Sep, 2017 2nd β
Will Mortimer 2 Sep, 2017 Lead dog Took a fall at mid height. Stiff crux with a grim top section.
with Jack jk
Took a fall at mid height. Stiff crux with a grim top section.
with Jack jk
adi bryant 16 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Jonoban 20 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Danielle Mannion
with Danielle Mannion
wil_perry 17 Jun, 2017 TR
Barrie Schofield II 27 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Rob Kinsey 26 May, 2017 2nd
with Gwyn
with Gwyn
Stefan_TR 4 May, 2017 Lead O/S Not the hardest climb considering the good rests. Took me a while to commit to certain sections. Cams in the upper break weren't quite what I thought they'd be from looking at it from the bottom (I'd also used the best sized cam for it in the flake lower down). Direct top out was hard work.
Not the hardest climb considering the good rests. Took me a while to commit to certain sections. Cams in the upper break weren't quite what I thought they'd be from looking at it from the bottom (I'd also used the best sized cam for it in the flake lower down). Direct top out was hard work.
mike8331 4 Oct, 2016 Lead bit gritty and dirty last moves
with paul delaney
bit gritty and dirty last moves
with paul delaney
Hidden 14 Sep, 2016 Lead
Jan.Hrb 10 Sep, 2016 2nd
with Charles
with Charles
cem 10 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Ended up going right at the top after backing off the dirty and worrying direct finish (where the peg is now gone). E2 5b in the current definitive guide, which gives stepping right as an alternative finish but perhaps it's E1 doing it that way...
with Jan.Hrb
Ended up going right at the top after backing off the dirty and worrying direct finish (where the peg is now gone). E2 5b in the current definitive guide, which gives stepping right as an alternative finish but perhaps it's E1 doing it that way...
with Jan.Hrb
LBrown 30 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Flavio 24 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
w-watson 24 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
tomlake 6 Jul, 2016 2nd
ben.phillips 6 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Went right at the top
with tomlake, Brendan Edwards
Went right at the top
with tomlake, Brendan Edwards
nick ferro 3 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 3 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Longsufferingropeholder 3 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S A bit stiff for E1
A bit stiff for E1
Hidden 21 Jun, 2016 Lead
Hidden 21 Jun, 2016 2nd
Leo Woodhead 11 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Felt tough with a tricky and technical crux, probably amplified the difficulty by it being the first route of the day. An exciting lead. Definitely tougher than the other E1's I've done in the quarry. Finished direct as it felt like the obvious line. Going off right looked like a cop out. Fairly terrifying finish.
with Ianwesterby, Bertrand
Felt tough with a tricky and technical crux, probably amplified the difficulty by it being the first route of the day. An exciting lead. Definitely tougher than the other E1's I've done in the quarry. Finished direct as it felt like the obvious line. Going off right looked like a cop out. Fairly terrifying finish.
with Ianwesterby, Bertrand
mBob8 26 Apr, 2016 Lead dog Pumpy start, suspicious blocks are not so bad, had one rest on the rope then continued up the crumbly ledges. Finished to the right because the direct was even crumblier! Interesting route but probably not worth a repeat IMO
Pumpy start, suspicious blocks are not so bad, had one rest on the rope then continued up the crumbly ledges. Finished to the right because the direct was even crumblier! Interesting route but probably not worth a repeat IMO
tobydunford 10 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
Climbster 17 Mar, 2016 2nd dog First leads of the year, v. poor effort.
with Vixie
First leads of the year, v. poor effort.
with Vixie
Hidden 4 Oct, 2015 Lead RP
Dave Turnbull, BMC 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Kasia
with Kasia
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 2nd
The Grist 9 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Lee Hamilton
with Lee Hamilton
db79 1 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
JonathanJones 23 May, 2015 2nd O/S
JEP 8 Apr, 2015 2nd Peg! What peg?
Peg! What peg?
David Kay 8 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Nice climbing up until the higher break which was soaking wet and dirty. After that it was a crumbly heathery horror show! Definitely E2.
with JEP
Nice climbing up until the higher break which was soaking wet and dirty. After that it was a crumbly heathery horror show! Definitely E2.
with JEP
tenbelter ??, 2015 -
John Jefferies 10 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
JimboWizbo 18 Jul, 2014 Lead RP Finishing right as per over the moors description makes for a nice well protected hvs/e1. I feel like e1-2 would be more suitable if you finish direct. Which is chossy and the peg looks rough!
with gaz
Finishing right as per over the moors description makes for a nice well protected hvs/e1. I feel like e1-2 would be more suitable if you finish direct. Which is chossy and the peg looks rough!
with gaz
Hidden 18 Jul, 2014 2nd dnf
theloringharvey 12 Jul, 2014 Lead
with Katherine Durtnell
with Katherine Durtnell
j.buckley87 1 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
John Gale 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S
monkeyman79 5 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with John Gale
with John Gale
Bowzle ??, 2014 Lead O/S Horrible climb! And grassy nasty finish
Horrible climb! And grassy nasty finish
RM199 18 Sep, 2013 Lead dog Great route. 1 rest. Def E2
Great route. 1 rest. Def E2
Jonathan Hall 18 Sep, 2013 2nd Done in rain, pleasant!
with RM199
Done in rain, pleasant!
with RM199
Marti999 29 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 2013 Lead dog
Hidden 8 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Frank the Husky ??, 2013 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2012 Lead
lizzyb 23 Jul, 2012 2nd dnf Got most of the way through the flakes wider gap so about halfway? (without chalk sweating in the sun - not advisable!) Just wasn't happening for me that day! E2 5b rockfax
Got most of the way through the flakes wider gap so about halfway? (without chalk sweating in the sun - not advisable!) Just wasn't happening for me that day! E2 5b rockfax
James Oswald 23 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S fun route. placed a cam in the first bvreak then had a unfun time getting to the flake to place gear. Scary step rightwards. Then loaded the flake with gear and spent a while figuring it out before going for it. Nasty topout.
fun route. placed a cam in the first bvreak then had a unfun time getting to the flake to place gear. Scary step rightwards. Then loaded the flake with gear and spent a while figuring it out before going for it. Nasty topout.
Hidden 30 May, 2012 Lead
pie_eater_pete 14 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 1 Apr, 2012 Lead β E2. Crux was pretty high above the last god nut and the holds were pretty slippy. Top out really dirty and scary too.
with Olli-C
E2. Crux was pretty high above the last god nut and the holds were pretty slippy. Top out really dirty and scary too.
with Olli-C
Olli-C 1 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S Guide book says E2, felt E2.
Guide book says E2, felt E2.
Mike_d78 26 Mar, 2012 Lead rpt
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 26 Mar, 2012 2nd rpt
Hidden 1 Oct, 2011 2nd
JBO 19 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Probably a silly choice for a first E1 but was desperate to do an E1 whilst still aged 14 and this is our local crag, the day before my fifteenth birthday!
Probably a silly choice for a first E1 but was desperate to do an E1 whilst still aged 14 and this is our local crag, the day before my fifteenth birthday!
pbphil169 ??, 2011 Lead dog
Peakpdr 23 Nov, 2010 - E1 my arse more e2 5b
E1 my arse more e2 5b
Nick1812P 21 Oct, 2010 TR β
Hidden 21 Oct, 2010 TR β
R8JimBob88 20 May, 2010 TR O/S Very sustained and pumpy. I wandered to the left a little near the top. Not sure I'm ready for the lead just yet. Soon though, soon.....
Very sustained and pumpy. I wandered to the left a little near the top. Not sure I'm ready for the lead just yet. Soon though, soon.....
jamesgodwin64 19 May, 2010 TR β
Hidden 19 May, 2010 2nd
Hidden 19 May, 2010 Lead dnf
Dan Lane 12 May, 2010 Lead β Good route, have tried it before, but lowered off as i couldnt commit to the moves. no such trouble this time, bomber nut just belew the crux gave me the confidence to commit i think. Very dirty topout.
with dpmUK
Good route, have tried it before, but lowered off as i couldnt commit to the moves. no such trouble this time, bomber nut just belew the crux gave me the confidence to commit i think. Very dirty topout.
with dpmUK
dpmUK 12 May, 2010 2nd dog
Hidden ?May, 2010 Lead O/S
simonp ?Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
with Annelies Sarrazyn
NaomiHart 8 Aug, 2009 2nd dog
with PeteH
with PeteH
PeteH 8 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Mostly good technical climbing, and well-protected. Last few moves not well-protected (as far as I could see!) and top-out almost outfoxed me...
Mostly good technical climbing, and well-protected. Last few moves not well-protected (as far as I could see!) and top-out almost outfoxed me...
Graeme Hammond 10 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S put too much gear in?/ very dirty at topout, not really a slab but really good none the less
with Ketu
put too much gear in?/ very dirty at topout, not really a slab but really good none the less
with Ketu
Dave Foster 31 May, 2009 Lead rpt Took a good sized whipper off the top of the slab. Pulled ropes and had a good rest before leading it clean. Felt hard and steeper than it looks. Top of flake took a bit of working out and the top out is manky. Excellent route though.
with Andy
Took a good sized whipper off the top of the slab. Pulled ropes and had a good rest before leading it clean. Felt hard and steeper than it looks. Top of flake took a bit of working out and the top out is manky. Excellent route though.
with Andy
mattnuttall 11 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
cymjt ??, 2009 -
JSA 29 Nov, 2008 Lead rpt climbed 3 times for the filming of the moorland grit: The Movie!
with Mike Rignall
climbed 3 times for the filming of the moorland grit: The Movie!
with Mike Rignall
metal arms 1 Nov, 2008 Lead dog Sat on a wire trying to work out the top of the flake. Horrible seepage in the top break which made topping out feel bold!
Sat on a wire trying to work out the top of the flake. Horrible seepage in the top break which made topping out feel bold!
hookface 12 Jun, 2008 Lead dog either i totally couldn't figure out the 5b moves at the top, or it's a 5c? a pumpy lead and good fun to fall off.
with tom
either i totally couldn't figure out the 5b moves at the top, or it's a 5c? a pumpy lead and good fun to fall off.
with tom
ste_d 29 May, 2008 TR rpt
with shunt
with shunt
kingholmesy ??, 2008 Lead O/S
with James from Hobson Moor
with James from Hobson Moor
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
MeMeMe 22 Sep, 2007 Lead dog Not too bad until I fell off when topping out and ended up 2/3rds of the way down the route. Pulled through for another go but ended up resting after messing up a move halfway up. Note to self, if you are going to do a big step-up, take note of the foothold you are stepping from in case you have to step back onto it again.
with sandy
Not too bad until I fell off when topping out and ended up 2/3rds of the way down the route. Pulled through for another go but ended up resting after messing up a move halfway up. Note to self, if you are going to do a big step-up, take note of the foothold you are stepping from in case you have to step back onto it again.
with sandy
PennyL 20 Sep, 2007 Lead dog
with Dnmn
with Dnmn
Hidden 20 Sep, 2007 2nd O/S
John Kettle 11 Aug, 2007 -
Hidden 29 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Stig 5 Apr, 2007 Lead rpt
with Jonathan Teale
with Jonathan Teale
Hidden ?Apr, 2007 2nd rpt
david morse 22 Mar, 2007 Lead dog sandgag and full of shit at top
with pete crease
sandgag and full of shit at top
with pete crease
felixthelion ?Mar, 2007 Lead O/S Fist E1! Felt brilliant. Dirty at the top
with Miles Wilks (sparrow boy)
Fist E1! Felt brilliant. Dirty at the top
with Miles Wilks (sparrow boy)
Stig 12 Sep, 2006 Lead rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Stig 13 Sep, 2005 Lead rpt
with Pete
with Pete
goi.ashmore 1 Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
with Andy Leavitt
with Andy Leavitt
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead
Hidden 7 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 29 May, 2004 2nd Tried the lead - but seems necky & hard at the top
with Ian Pickles
Tried the lead - but seems necky & hard at the top
with Ian Pickles
rob.grafton 2 Apr, 2003 Lead Western Grit rockfax
with Bruce
Western Grit rockfax
with Bruce
steveb2006 27 Apr, 1997 Lead With David Hole
With David Hole
steveb2006 15 Sep, 1996 Lead Feels rather steep for a slab
with Chris Webb
Feels rather steep for a slab
with Chris Webb
runestone ?Aug, 1996 TR
Mick King 8 Jun, 1996 Lead β Steve failed from about half way. We pulled the ropes & I led with the runners still in the first part
with Steve Lavender
Steve failed from about half way. We pulled the ropes & I led with the runners still in the first part
with Steve Lavender
phardman 11 May, 1996 Lead
tlr 4 May, 1996 Lead
with Kim
with Kim
Mike_d78 1 Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
Brian Wilderspin 29 Jun, 1994 -
with Tony Clifford
with Tony Clifford
Roget 6 Nov, 1993 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ?Jun, 1992 Lead
samt 27 Apr, 1992 Lead
Hidden ??, 1992 -
Craig Barton ??, 1991 Lead RP
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 55
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set