Rockfax Description
18m. Climb to the diagonal flake to its end, finish direct. Good gear throughout. © Rockfax

FA. Malc Baxter (1 peg) 1959 FFA Loz Francomb 1979

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors).

Bryan M 20/Sep TR
with Pero
Pero 20/Sep TR
Jack J Keogan 02/Sep 2nd β
Will Mortimer 02/Sep Lead dog

Took a fall at mid height. Stiff crux with a grim top section.

adi bryant 16/Aug Lead O/S
Jonoban 20/Jun Lead O/S
with Danielle Mannion
wil_perry 17/Jun TR
Barrie Schofield II 27/May Lead O/S
Rob Kinsey 26/May 2nd
with Gwyn
Stefan_TR 04/May Lead O/S

Not the hardest climb considering the good rests. Took me a while to commit to certain sections. Cams in the upper break weren't quite what I thought they'd be from looking at it from the bottom (I'd also used the best sized cam for it in the flake lower down). Direct top out was hard work.

mike8331 04/Oct/16 Lead

bit gritty and dirty last moves

with paul delaney
Hidden 14/Sep/16 Lead
Jan.Hrb 10/Sep/16 2nd
with Charles
cem 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Ended up going right at the top after backing off the dirty and worrying direct finish (where the peg is now gone). E2 5b in the current definitive guide, which gives stepping right as an alternative finish but perhaps it's E1 doing it that way...

LBrown 30/Aug/16 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
w-watson 24/Jul/16 2nd
tomlake 06/Jul/16 2nd
ben.phillips 06/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Went right at the top

with Tom Lake, Brendan Edwards
nick ferro 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
C May 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Nick, Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

A bit stiff for E1

quickdrawmcraw 21/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/16 2nd
Leo Woodhead 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Felt tough with a tricky and technical crux, probably amplified the difficulty by it being the first route of the day. An exciting lead. Definitely tougher than the other E1's I've done in the quarry. Finished direct as it felt like the obvious line. Going off right looked like a cop out. Fairly terrifying finish.

with Ianwesterby, Bertrand
Hidden 26/Apr/16 Lead dog
tobydunford 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Climbster 17/Mar/16 2nd dog

First leads of the year, v. poor effort.

with Vick
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead RP
Dave Turnbull, BMC 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/15 2nd
The Grist 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Lee Hamilton
db79 01/Jul/15 2nd O/S
JonathanJones 23/May/15 2nd O/S
JEP 08/Apr/15 2nd

Peg! What peg?

David Kay 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Nice climbing up until the higher break which was soaking wet and dirty. After that it was a crumbly heathery horror show! Definitely E2.

tenbelter ??/2015 -
John Jefferies 10/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Andy Stewart
JimboWizbo 18/Jul/14 Lead RP

Finishing right as per over the moors description makes for a nice well protected hvs/e1. I feel like e1-2 would be more suitable if you finish direct. Which is chossy and the peg looks rough!

with gaz
Hidden 18/Jul/14 2nd dnf
theloringharvey 12/Jul/14 Lead
with Katherine Durtnell
j.buckley87 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
John Gale 05/May/14 Lead O/S
monkeyman79 05/May/14 2nd O/S
with John Gale
Bowzle ??/2014 Lead O/S

Horrible climb! And grassy nasty finish

RM199 18/Sep/13 Lead dog

Great route. 1 rest. Def E2

Jonathan Hall 18/Sep/13 2nd

Done in rain, pleasant!

Marti999 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 24/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Frank the Husky ??/2013 -
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead
lizzyb 23/Jul/12 2nd dnf

Got most of the way through the flakes wider gap so about halfway? (without chalk sweating in the sun - not advisable!) Just wasn't happening for me that day! E2 5b rockfax

James Oswald 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S

fun route. placed a cam in the first bvreak then had a unfun time getting to the flake to place gear. Scary step rightwards. Then loaded the flake with gear and spent a while figuring it out before going for it. Nasty topout.

Hidden 30/May/12 Lead
pie_eater_pete 14/May/12 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 01/Apr/12 Lead β

E2. Crux was pretty high above the last god nut and the holds were pretty slippy. Top out really dirty and scary too.

Olli-C 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Guide book says E2, felt E2.

nokishatov 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
ste_d 26/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with mik
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd
JBO 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Probably a silly choice for a first E1 but was desperate to do an E1 whilst still aged 14 and this is our local crag, the day before my fifteenth birthday!

pbphil169 ??/2011 Lead dog
Peakpdr 23/Nov/10 -

E1 my arse more e2 5b

Nick1812P 21/Oct/10 TR β
with Jamie
Hidden 21/Oct/10 TR β
R8JimBob88 20/May/10 TR O/S

Very sustained and pumpy. I wandered to the left a little near the top. Not sure I'm ready for the lead just yet. Soon though, soon.....

with James
jamesgodwin64 19/May/10 TR β
Hidden 19/May/10 2nd
Hidden 19/May/10 Lead dnf
Dan Lane 12/May/10 Lead β

Good route, have tried it before, but lowered off as i couldnt commit to the moves. no such trouble this time, bomber nut just belew the crux gave me the confidence to commit i think. Very dirty topout.

dpmUK 12/May/10 2nd dog
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
simonp ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
NaomiHart 08/Aug/09 2nd dog
PeteH 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Mostly good technical climbing, and well-protected. Last few moves not well-protected (as far as I could see!) and top-out almost outfoxed me...

Graeme Hammond 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S

put too much gear in?/ very dirty at topout, not really a slab but really good none the less

with Rob
Dave Foster 31/May/09 Lead rpt

Took a good sized whipper off the top of the slab. Pulled ropes and had a good rest before leading it clean. Felt hard and steeper than it looks. Top of flake took a bit of working out and the top out is manky. Excellent route though.

with Andy
mattnuttall 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
cymjt ??/2009 -
JSA 29/Nov/08 Lead rpt

climbed 3 times for the filming of the moorland grit: The Movie!

with Mike Rignall
metal arms 01/Nov/08 Lead dog

Sat on a wire trying to work out the top of the flake. Horrible seepage in the top break which made topping out feel bold!

hookface 12/Jun/08 Lead dog

either i totally couldn't figure out the 5b moves at the top, or it's a 5c? a pumpy lead and good fun to fall off.

with tom
ste_d 29/May/08 TR rpt
with shunt
kingholmesy ??/2008 Lead O/S
with James from Hobson Moor
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
MeMeMe 22/Sep/07 Lead dog

Not too bad until I fell off when topping out and ended up 2/3rds of the way down the route. Pulled through for another go but ended up resting after messing up a move halfway up. Note to self, if you are going to do a big step-up, take note of the foothold you are stepping from in case you have to step back onto it again.

with Andy
PenJD 20/Sep/07 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Sep/07 2nd O/S
John Kettle 11/Aug/07 -
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Stig 05/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Jonathan Teale
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd rpt
david morse 22/Mar/07 Lead dog

sandgag and full of shit at top

with pete crease
felixthelion ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Fist E1! Felt brilliant. Dirty at the top

with Miles Wilks (sparrow boy)
Stig 12/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Stig 13/Sep/05 Lead rpt
with Pete
goi.ashmore 01/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Andy Leavitt
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 29/May/04 2nd

Tried the lead - but seems necky & hard at the top

with Ian Pickles
rob.grafton 02/Apr/03 Lead

Western Grit rockfax

with Bruce
Hidden 27/Apr/97 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/96 Lead
phardman 11/May/96 Lead
tlr 04/May/96 Lead
with Kim
nokishatov 01/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Roget 06/Nov/93 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/92 Lead
samt 27/Apr/92 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 -
Craig Barton ??/1991 Lead RP
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High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Style of ascent
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