Rockfax Description
Start right of Dragon's Route and crimp to the break then climb powerfully up the shallow groove in the centre of the wall, passing good gear in the break with difficulty. The best route on the wall, but beware the final moves. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Burton (with peg runners) 1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Grit 13/14 list.

Longsufferingropeholder 06/Aug/17 TR RP

Went ok with right beta. Bottom half never caused any problems but still not willing to bet my ankles on leading it.

GeorgeNunn 07/May/17 TR O/S
with George Reeder
WilliamRupp 05/May/17 Lead O/S

Stick cams in the break, ditch gear and go boldly for the top with big fall potential. But seems like fall would be safe

Stroppy 22/Apr/17 Lead RP

First E5 - Worked a bit last year, one go on top rope, got on the lead, forgot all the moves but battled through :)

with Cathy
AdamFreeman 18/Feb/17 Lead RP

Second attempt on lead! Stripped the gear after first attempt to lead it properly!

AdamFreeman 17/Feb/17 TR dog

Finally got everything down, still struggle on the crux, but going to push for the lead!

MischaHY 20/Jan/17 Lead

First trad lead in months. Oh, how I've missed the terror.

AdamFreeman 20/Jan/17 2nd dog

Was a bit drier today, got all the sequence down, will go for the lead next!

AdamFreeman 14/Jan/17 TR dnf

The wall was absolutely soaked, but we wanted to get outside, think this is going to be a project, will see how it goes when dry

Stroppy 31/Mar/16 TR RP

'pon Shunt

Droyd 23/Nov/15 TR
Will Mortimer 23/Nov/15 TR O/S

Felt good on this, TR'd it clean 3 times. Will come back for the lead when I've manned up

Hannes B 23/Nov/15 Lead RP
with Charlie
mb_manchester 15/Oct/15 TR β
Hidden 02/Jul/15 TR dog
db79 01/Jul/15 TR dog
akhughes 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Harris
Hidden 03/Aug/12 TR β
Nick1812P 03/Aug/12 TR rpt
with Jamie
rockjedi 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
efrance24234 22/Jul/12 Lead β

ground up. should have onsighted but was very greasy in the sun on the last tricky move. let it cool down abit and it was fine.

mwatson 19/Jul/12 Lead dnf

flashed crux but guide made it sound like there would be gear after the break i just found sand and wetness. crux was quite easy for e4 though

ste_d 06/Mar/12 TR
with shunt
Matthew reid 16/Aug/11 TR O/S
with shunt
Nick1812P 08/Jul/11 TR rpt

Got it clean 2nd go.

with Jamie
Hidden 07/Jul/11 TR β
Hidden 28/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Nov/10 TR
bradscorner 12/Oct/10 TR

The moves past the break are extremely committing and thin, then as the holds appear to get better there is nothing for your feet. Was so pumped I could barely finish!

Jim the Baker ?/Sep/10 Lead RP
JulesV 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 02/Jun/10 TR dnf
Hidden 12/May/10 TR dog
R8JimBob88 13/Apr/10 TR dnf

James led it first and I attempted a tope rope. Got pumped silly quick and found the halfway break full of moss so hard to rest on. Needless to say I failed.

with James
jamesgodwin64 13/Apr/10 Lead RP

with no gear pre placed and worked on TR 5 times solid good route with 3 cams (bomber) in the break crux is gr8 but there is a process to it which makes it so much easier :D

jamesgodwin64 07/Apr/10 TR dog
Dan Lane 07/Apr/10 Lead RP

Nice moves, strenuous to get into the groove, but brilliant. toproped 4 times, and led with what little gear there is pre-placed, and a tied on spotted on the ledge.

Franco Cookson OLD 13/Dec/09 Lead O/S

It looked dry. It wasn't. I can't believe I didn't slip off- felt E5 today.

PeteH 12/Sep/09 TR dog

A quick top-rope solo effort - great climbing though, will be back to lead this at some stage!

dahmer 03/May/09 Lead O/S

amazing climb

with chris turord
cymjt ??/2009 -
Franco Cookson ??/2009 Lead O/S


gregoritos 22/May/08 Lead O/S
with Dave kettle
maybe_si 10/May/08 TR
kingholmesy ??/2008 2nd dog

One rest at the break

with Richard B
Toby Dunn 25/May/07 Lead O/S
with John
Hidden ??/2006 -
Carl Smethurst 17/Oct/04 TR
tenbelter 04/Jun/98 Lead RP
robtrooper ??/1996 -
Sean Kelly ?/May/93 TR
with Pete Carmichael
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 17
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set