25m.

Rockfax Description
A lower start to Looning the Tube reached either from below or by a short abseil from above to a bolt belay. Climb the slab past some bolts to join Looning... © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Direct start to looning the tube, gain access to the lower slab through the tight squeeze tunnel, or the higher easier access tunnels, scramble up to below the main wall along side the easy angled slab, move left after a big bloc, to a bolt belay and stance. Climb towards the looning crack, passing three bolt runners, crux passing the third.

Jim Kelly , John Redhead 27/Mar/2010

Ticklists

AMC Uni Ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Rob Gillespie 1 Aug 2nd rpt
SarahConnor 29 Jul 2nd
MarkNicholasConnor 29 Jul Lead O/S
benkelsey 30 Jun 2nd O/S Miki ran up the top in the rain
Miki ran up the top in the rain
Luke90 30 Jun Lead O/S
with FiC
with FiC
shaunhumphreys 30 Jun Lead O/S
IWasJack 30 Jun 2nd O/S Flake peeled off in my hand - but not a crucial one as I was a bit too far left. Great climb though - and 5 bolts?? on a trad route??
with Luke H
Flake peeled off in my hand - but not a crucial one as I was a bit too far left. Great climb though - and 5 bolts?? on a trad route??
with Luke H
Hidden 30 Jun 2nd O/S
reubenhf 20 Jun Lead O/S
with Zakko
with Zakko
Zakko 20 Jun 2nd rpt
B Carol 6 Jun 2nd
with ben
with ben
Ben_Roberts 6 Jun Lead O/S
with B
with B
Emlyn Price 26 May Lead O/S
Hidden 15 May 2nd
Hidden 15 May Lead
benrhyd 12 May 2nd
Adam John Haynes 12 May Lead O/S Second route of the G D O.
with benrhyd
Second route of the G D O.
with benrhyd
Hidden 7 Apr 2nd
Zakko 27 Oct, 2018 Lead RP Actually quite nice climbing, thin but positive holds. Legs were burning though, and I put my foot on the rusty pipe for a bit of a rest.
Actually quite nice climbing, thin but positive holds. Legs were burning though, and I put my foot on the rusty pipe for a bit of a rest.
Olly Chapman 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
LaAnnaPurna 30 Sep, 2018 2nd
with nickb
with nickb
mjeffery 27 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
chris_woodsy 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Widda
with Widda
Widda 22 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S thought i'd lost it when a crimp crumbled under my hand. managed to still use it for the move by compressing it into the rock before letting it drop. nice route. ow feet.
thought i'd lost it when a crimp crumbled under my hand. managed to still use it for the move by compressing it into the rock before letting it drop. nice route. ow feet.
ebutton 20 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Really cool addition to Looning. Does feel like a sport route with the amount of bolts.
Really cool addition to Looning. Does feel like a sport route with the amount of bolts.
TimvanRiessen 20 Jun, 2018 2nd β
with ebutton
with ebutton
mattgrange 26 May, 2018 Lead O/S Really good thin, sharp, sustained technical flake climbing. Barely worth an E grade. Downclimbed from Looning to first bolt. No holds broke but some are definitely 'snappy'.
Really good thin, sharp, sustained technical flake climbing. Barely worth an E grade. Downclimbed from Looning to first bolt. No holds broke but some are definitely 'snappy'.
Laura Pruul 11 Apr, 2018 Lead
with Carlos Barranco
with Carlos Barranco
Hidden 8 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Jonesoc 17 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
justdoit ??, 2018 Lead O/S good route and glad I spotted it, nice thin technical climbing, with some slightly thought provoking holds to add into the mix.
good route and glad I spotted it, nice thin technical climbing, with some slightly thought provoking holds to add into the mix.
edwardwoodward 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Might be OK when the holds stop peeling off.
Might be OK when the holds stop peeling off.
matt peacey 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Pete_Frost 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S Really enjoyed this. Designer danger is absent and the bolts are where they are needed. With the finish up Looning The Tube's upper crack-line I think this one deserves a couple of stars.
Really enjoyed this. Designer danger is absent and the bolts are where they are needed. With the finish up Looning The Tube's upper crack-line I think this one deserves a couple of stars.
afearn91 ?May, 2017 Lead O/S
Mike Hewitt 29 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S Felt steady all the way, bolt clipping helps with that
Felt steady all the way, bolt clipping helps with that
JendeHoxar 29 Dec, 2016 2nd O/S
joedean 6 Dec, 2016 2nd
James-m-h 6 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S The faff was strong with this one climbed onto the pipe then spent 10 minuets trying to move off it so did the e2 bit fine but not the hvs bit...
with joedean
The faff was strong with this one climbed onto the pipe then spent 10 minuets trying to move off it so did the e2 bit fine but not the hvs bit...
with joedean
James Beaumont 7 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with Tom Kirby
with Tom Kirby
JonesE 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Not as snappy as expected. All used holds are solid. No real hard pulls required either just a nice technical sequence and a romp up Looning. Quality.
Not as snappy as expected. All used holds are solid. No real hard pulls required either just a nice technical sequence and a romp up Looning. Quality.
Hidden 7 Aug, 2016 2nd β
chris nutman ?Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Really enjoyed the techy sequence on this, solid bolts, bit of a stiff move around the third bolt but trust your feet!!
Really enjoyed the techy sequence on this, solid bolts, bit of a stiff move around the third bolt but trust your feet!!
La Mont 7 May, 2016 Lead
with James Doc
with James Doc
tradisrad ??, 2016 Lead O/S
tomwright1509 15 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S Pulled some choss off great route but a little snappy!
Pulled some choss off great route but a little snappy!
static266 27 Aug, 2015 2nd dog
with JRJones
with JRJones
JRJones 27 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Jacob
with Jacob
cymjt 17 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Top route, definitely deserves more traffic! Bolts in just the right place and all of the main holds are solid, just a bit flaky in the bottom (easy) bit now.
Top route, definitely deserves more traffic! Bolts in just the right place and all of the main holds are solid, just a bit flaky in the bottom (easy) bit now.
David Kay 17 Aug, 2015 2nd
Hidden 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Emma Reynolds 11 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S Suited my style, seemed much easier than 5a's and 5b's tried earlier in the week! Could be getting back into climbing though
Suited my style, seemed much easier than 5a's and 5b's tried earlier in the week! Could be getting back into climbing though
jacob shieldhouse hadley 11 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with jasper cluff
with jasper cluff
kyaizawa 11 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Quality climbing and well bolted. Some more traffic would do it some good in terms of cleaning up flaky holds.
Quality climbing and well bolted. Some more traffic would do it some good in terms of cleaning up flaky holds.
james.slater 24 May, 2015 2nd O/S
James 'pyjamas' ?Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Feb, 2015 Lead
Amazoniangirl 6 Feb, 2015 2nd
with mzk
with mzk
Hidden ??, 2015 -
joedean ??, 2015 -
morgan91 4 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
adi bryant 28 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2014 -
Hidden 27 Apr, 2014 2nd
jezb1 27 Apr, 2014 Lead A really worthwhile variation start to Looning. A little snappy but a good pitch.
A really worthwhile variation start to Looning. A little snappy but a good pitch.
Sol Armer 1 Apr, 2014 Lead β
Will Falder 1 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
Rob Gillespie ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Nov, 2013 Lead RP
dsh 23 Nov, 2013 TR
with ERU
with ERU
Hidden 23 Nov, 2013 TR O/S
spidermonkey09 10 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Nice, still a bit dirty at the bottom but will clear up. Good small crimping.
with jt232
Nice, still a bit dirty at the bottom but will clear up. Good small crimping.
with jt232
Hidden 29 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
steveboote ?Aug, 2013 Lead
with Vic Belshaw
with Vic Belshaw
Stefan_Morris 7 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Jen 'Banksy' Banks 7 Jul, 2013 Lead dog
MarkRoe 26 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Pulled a hold off just before the first bolt and almost ended up following it down the slab below. Watching this, my belayer was very glad he was anchored in! Despite this 'hiccup', I still agree that this makes a better start to the crack than the original, especially seeing as you use the tube more.
Pulled a hold off just before the first bolt and almost ended up following it down the slab below. Watching this, my belayer was very glad he was anchored in! Despite this 'hiccup', I still agree that this makes a better start to the crack than the original, especially seeing as you use the tube more.
DelorieC13 26 Jun, 2013 2nd β
with MarkRoe
with MarkRoe
Hidden 2 May, 2013 2nd O/S
ianstevens 2 May, 2013 Lead O/S Better than the original start, cool route! Little soft for E2, but probably just about there.
Better than the original start, cool route! Little soft for E2, but probably just about there.
rustaldo 27 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with Tom
with Tom
Samuel Wainwright 10 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S Needs more traffic! soft E2
Needs more traffic! soft E2
Sol Armer 10 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 3 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
JBO 1 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S Better than the original start really.
Better than the original start really.
Hidden 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
ches 15 Jul, 2012 2nd
with twem
with twem
Andy_B39 22 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Sam Tolhurst
with Sam Tolhurst
Yong_Welsh 5 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Still a bit loose.
Still a bit loose.
Hidden 5 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
Tom Seccombe 2 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
with BenRyle
with BenRyle
BenRyle 2 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Drew M 23 Sep, 2011 2nd
with Ed F
with Ed F
Hidden 2 Jun, 2011 Lead
Hidden 31 May, 2011 2nd O/S
Sam Marland 31 May, 2011 Lead O/S Fantastic if a little sharp. Started as low as could go for the direct start, though about using what looked like a bolted belay, but started at the ledge below the first bolt all the way up.
with mkeeves
Fantastic if a little sharp. Started as low as could go for the direct start, though about using what looked like a bolted belay, but started at the ledge below the first bolt all the way up.
with mkeeves
gd303uk 1 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S A much tougher and technical start to the route above, very nice,
with John Rogers
A much tougher and technical start to the route above, very nice,
with John Rogers
Rob Evans ??, 2011 Lead O/S Bolts are close together an seems like a sport route
Bolts are close together an seems like a sport route
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
sam820 25 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Good route, will be really nice after some more traffic! Lead into 'zzzooming' making a cool route with a good halfway rest.
with Chi
Good route, will be really nice after some more traffic! Lead into 'zzzooming' making a cool route with a good halfway rest.
with Chi
dicky79 2 May, 2010 2nd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
cosreba 2 May, 2010 Lead O/S Enjoyable climb, Not to sure on the E2. Came across the expected lose slate since it's new. Can see it becoming a very popular climb.
with Rob
Enjoyable climb, Not to sure on the E2. Came across the expected lose slate since it's new. Can see it becoming a very popular climb.
with Rob
adam06 12 Apr, 2010 2nd unclipped first bolt from looning and climbed down and seconded this. quite sustained till you get to the looning crack.
with cosreba
unclipped first bolt from looning and climbed down and seconded this. quite sustained till you get to the looning crack.
with cosreba
hervenuttall ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with ross
with ross
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 24
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set