25m. Direct start to looning the tube, gain access to the lower slab through the tight squeeze tunnel, or the higher easier access tunnels, scramble up to below the main wall along side the easy angled slab, move left after a big bloc, to a bolt belay and stance. Climb towards the looning crack, passing three bolt runners, crux passing the third.

Jim Kelly , John Redhead 27/Mar/2010

Ticklists: AMC Uni Ticklist.

matt peacey 07/May/17 Lead O/S
Pete_Frost 07/May/17 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this. Designer danger is absent and the bolts are where they are needed. With the finish up Looning The Tube's upper crack-line I think this one deserves a couple of stars.

afearn91 ?/May/17 Lead O/S
Mike Hewitt 29/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Felt steady all the way, bolt clipping helps with that

JendeHoxar 29/Dec/16 2nd O/S
joedean 06/Dec/16 2nd
James-m-h 06/Dec/16 Lead O/S

The faff was strong with this one climbed onto the pipe then spent 10 minuets trying to move off it so did the e2 bit fine but not the hvs bit...

with joedean
James Beaumont 07/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Tom Kirby
JonesE 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Not as snappy as expected. All used holds are solid. No real hard pulls required either just a nice technical sequence and a romp up Looning. Quality.

dinodinosaur 07/Aug/16 2nd β

Great climbing, seems like an under appreciated route, loved the walk in through the love tunnel. I was absolutely hanging from the night before but really enjoyed the route

with JonesE
chris nutman ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed the techy sequence on this, solid bolts, bit of a stiff move around the third bolt but trust your feet!!

La Mont 07/May/16 Lead
with James Doc
tradisrad ??/2016 Lead O/S
tomwright1509 15/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Pulled some choss off great route but a little snappy!

static266 27/Aug/15 2nd dog
with Joe
JRJones 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Jacob
cymjt 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Top route, definitely deserves more traffic! Bolts in just the right place and all of the main holds are solid, just a bit flaky in the bottom (easy) bit now.

with David K
David Kay 17/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Emma Reynolds 11/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Suited my style, seemed much easier than 5a's and 5b's tried earlier in the week! Could be getting back into climbing though

jacob shieldhouse hadley 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with jasper cluff
kyaizawa 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Quality climbing and well bolted. Some more traffic would do it some good in terms of cleaning up flaky holds.

james.slater 24/May/15 2nd O/S
James 'pyjamas' ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Feb/15 Lead
Amazoniangirl 06/Feb/15 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 -
joedean ??/2015 -
morgan91 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
adi bryant 28/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 -
Hidden 27/Apr/14 2nd
jezb1 27/Apr/14 Lead

A really worthwhile variation start to Looning. A little snappy but a good pitch.

Sol Armer 01/Apr/14 Lead β
Will Falder 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Rob Gillespie ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Nov/13 Lead RP
dsh 23/Nov/13 TR
Hidden 23/Nov/13 TR O/S
spidermonkey09 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Nice, still a bit dirty at the bottom but will clear up. Good small crimping.

Alex Riley 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
steveboote ?/Aug/13 Lead
with Vic Belshaw
Stefan_Morris 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with jenny
Jen 'Banksy' Banks 07/Jul/13 Lead dog
MarkRoe 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Pulled a hold off just before the first bolt and almost ended up following it down the slab below. Watching this, my belayer was very glad he was anchored in! Despite this 'hiccup', I still agree that this makes a better start to the crack than the original, especially seeing as you use the tube more.

DelorieC13 26/Jun/13 2nd β
Hidden 02/May/13 2nd O/S
ianstevens 02/May/13 Lead O/S

Better than the original start, cool route! Little soft for E2, but probably just about there.

rustaldo 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Samuel Wainwright 10/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Needs more traffic! soft E2

Sol Armer 10/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
JBO 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Better than the original start really.

Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
ches 15/Jul/12 2nd
Andy_B39 22/May/12 Lead O/S
with Sam Tolhurst
Yong_Welsh 05/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Still a bit loose.

Hidden 05/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Tom Seccombe 02/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with BenRyle
BenRyle 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Drew M 23/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 31/May/11 2nd O/S
Sam Marland 31/May/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic if a little sharp. Started as low as could go for the direct start, though about using what looked like a bolted belay, but started at the ledge below the first bolt all the way up.

gd303uk 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S

A much tougher and technical start to the route above, very nice,

with John Rogers
Rob Evans ??/2011 Lead O/S

Bolts are close together an seems like a sport route

Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
sam820 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Good route, will be really nice after some more traffic! Lead into 'zzzooming' making a cool route with a good halfway rest.

with Chi
dicky79 02/May/10 2nd O/S
with Pete
cosreba 02/May/10 Lead O/S

Enjoyable climb, Not to sure on the E2. Came across the expected lose slate since it's new. Can see it becoming a very popular climb.

with Rob
adam06 12/Apr/10 2nd

unclipped first bolt from looning and climbed down and seconded this. quite sustained till you get to the looning crack.

hervenuttall ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with ross
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High E3
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Votes cast 17
High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 16
Votes cast 17
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