UKC

35m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the arete which is awkward at the top. Move up into a slight corner of The Bender and step right into a slabby and loose corner. Follow this to the fixed belay. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rob M 19 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I was expecting a typical VS 4b, this is risky at the grade (as are afew at this cliff)! You get 1 AWFUL cam in the arete, that\'s it! So when I did this the 1st reliable piece of gear was well over 15m up & the \"mantle\" move / moving left beneath it is tricky & you\'re 6m up with nothing beneath you for safety! It really freaked me out at the time, if you\'re cool with risk it\'s fine but it\'s not a good 1 if you\'re new to VS!
Show beta
βeta: I was expecting a typical VS 4b, this is risky at the grade (as are afew at this cliff)! You get 1 AWFUL cam in the arete, that's it! So when I did this the 1st reliable piece of gear was well over 15m up & the "mantle" move / moving left beneath it is tricky & you're 6m up with nothing beneath you for safety! It really freaked me out at the time, if you're cool with risk it's fine but it's not a good 1 if you're new to VS!
Steve_westy 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Found it a pleasant outing despite the fact that I couldn't get any pro in until at least 20ft up but from there on in everything is present. However, I then got to point where I couldn't get any higher unless I wanted to climb through lots of nettles and brambles face first. I then proceeded to sit on a ledge while I waited for my mate to nip round and throw a rope down so I could ab back down and retrieve my gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found it a pleasant outing despite the fact that I couldn't get any pro in until at least 20ft up but from there on in everything is present. However, I then got to point where I couldn't get any higher unless I wanted to climb through lots of nettles and brambles face first. I then proceeded to sit on a ledge while I waited for my mate to nip round and throw a rope down so I could ab back down and retrieve my gear.
Offwidth 18 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The top pitch could do with a better description. Just right of the groove is a small triangular roof (possible confusion?) right again is a square roof and presumably the route takes the flaky crack out of the left side before moving left to join the other line. This flaky crack looks loose but is more solid than it appears and has some good moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top pitch could do with a better description. Just right of the groove is a small triangular roof (possible confusion?) right again is a square roof and presumably the route takes the flaky crack out of the left side before moving left to join the other line. This flaky crack looks loose but is more solid than it appears and has some good moves.

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Guidebooks for Aldery Cliff

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 10
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Quien Sabe?

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bamford Edge)

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