Rockfax Description
A striking line taking in the wide crack in the upper section of wall left of the corner, through which daylight can be seen! Start on a massive boulder directly beneath the corner.
Climb up the corner for 5m and step left to a ledge, from which moves up and left gain a slab. Climb the steep wall above past a ledge to the base of the crack and follow this to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Spearos 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Riggo
masa-alpin 14/May/17 Lead dnf

It was felt hard for the grade, and then I took a fall when a hold broke off, and eventually I escaped to the right to the adjascent HVS route at the corner. Later I heard from the locals the route (Crack In The Sky) had fallen off and did not exist any more! So, I was climbing in the middle of nowhere – that explains! During the BMC International Meet 2017.

with Moos
The Grist 17/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Feb/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 18/Feb/17 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2017 -
Lumbering Oaf 05/Jun/16 2nd dog

The mantel shelf was hard. Had to rest.

spenser 01/Jun/16 2nd

The eponymous crack in the sky is no more!

with Roger Gibbs
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead
adam 24 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S

The top crack is gone. I followed the original line then swung around left to finish, still a nice climb and avoids the loose stuff higher up.

with Caroline
Hidden 05/Apr/15 2nd O/S
andrea83 12/Oct/14 TR O/S

Went up the crack to the right of this route at the top. Didn't realise the proper line had fallen down. Pretty loose and nasty today, Hamish pulled off some rock the size of his head which luckily didn't hit either of us. May be better now its gone. Got on it thinking it could be one to lead but mental note now made not to return to this one.

with Hamish
Ally Baba 09/Jul/14 2nd

the top block is now gone from the storm. Still climable and enjoyable. Now called 'Crack in the floor'...

with Gav Swinton
chris j 13/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Norman_P_W 03/Jul/13 2nd
with Bob M
ian d f 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Bob, Norman
Bob M 03/Jul/13 2nd
morganator 17/May/13 2nd
with International Meet Guest
oakapple 16/May/13 2nd
Wil Treasure 15/May/13 2nd
with Viktor
Nick Wallis ?/May/13 Lead
with BMC international meet
Hidden 04/Apr/13 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2013 2nd O/S
with Colin
andy_pemberton 17/Nov/12 Lead
with Dave Marshall
Bristoldave 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Caroline
Dilwat 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Pushed me all the way. Final crack is great.

with Pete, SurferStan
SurferStan 22/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Pete Chapman, Dilwat
Hidden 19/Aug/12 Lead β
belay bunny turned bad 19/Aug/12 2nd β
with loundsy
John Mcshea 09/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Justin T 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
peterp 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Cracking fun despite the hangover. Wish we had more time at this super crag!

with Beans
alastairbegley 25/Jul/12 2nd dog
cornishmackem 24/Jul/12 TR
Hidden 08/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd
Stewart Armstrong 04/Jun/12 Lead
with Steve Westwood
Hidden 07/May/12 2nd O/S
monsteratt 07/May/12 Lead O/S

Great and not too tricky. The HVS corner at the start was the worst wet and foothold broke off. Top crack was great!

with Chris Goddard
cem 08/Apr/12 2nd
Dale Turrell 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
JeromeT 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
burto 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
tobydunford 02/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Harry Martin
Pete Graham ?/Apr/12 2nd
with Rick Graham
arandall 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Frances Bensley, Amber Thornton
alice fuller 11/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
soph ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 TR β
AlistairB 29/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Matt Fry, Lisa
LisaA 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Matt Fry 29/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Harry Thorpe 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
thetradlad 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

first (proper!) E1

jakenichol 31/May/11 Lead

Seconded this couple weeks ago, didn't make it any less scary on the lead. Foot traverse is bold. Probably safer to do direct start with no gear : /

haylow 31/May/11 2nd
Adam Booth 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Wet wet wet!

Ed Booth 28/May/11 2nd O/S

Very damp!!

lrandall 17/May/11 Lead O/S

My first E1 on granite and a confidence inspiring warm-up after 3 weeks of not climbing. An enjoyable route which turned out to be less sustained then I had imagined, so soft at the grade perhaps? [BETA ALERT!] The lower corner (shared with Amen Corner) caught me slightly of guard, making me more then just pause for thought. The true line, which makes hard moves left to gain the ledge below the crack rather then continuing directly up easy ground in the corner to reach the same position, felt slightly eliminate. The crack itslef and wall on the right provides ample holds.

with Foglet
Dave Heaton 15/May/11 Lead
with Jake Nichol
Fran S8 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
liamoloughlin 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead
Ian Jones 24/Apr/11 2nd rpt

Quite a tough warm up.

with Major Daniel Moore, Brigadier Sir Roger Benton
andybenham 05/Mar/11 2nd rpt

Repeated as part of a very enjoyable day's coaching with the Dawes.

with Johnny Dawes
royal 05/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Repeated as a warm up on a great Johnny Dawes coaching day. Really enjoyable to second as it was on my limit when leading it last weekend.

Gareth 05/Mar/11 TR

Great days coaching

royal 26/Feb/11 Lead dog

Great climb. Did the bottom 2/3rds without problem including the crux moves. Reached the end jamming section, got badly flash pumped and fell off. Couldn't shake off the pump and fell a few more times before reaching the top. Abseiled down Grande Plage, what a climb! can't wait to have a go at that one!!

andybenham 26/Feb/11 2nd O/S

Absolutely fantastic. Delicate and balancy in places with a stunning finish up the offwidth crack at the top. Enjoyable climbing throughout and well worth a return visit to do it on lead

Dan_Carroll 01/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Tom
Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead
petellis 31/Aug/10 2nd O/S
mattyork2 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Feet traverse across the ledge, not hand traverse - obviously.Well obvious when it's not raining and February ( : Brilliant long Maynard moves on the top face. Reminiscent of Cemetery Gates I thought up there.

tommytuffa 11/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with ollie b
3 Names 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Phil PBC 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
jfletcher 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Ian Raggett
Harald 13/May/10 Lead O/S
Harald 13/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
dan gibson 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with michael porter
Hidden 10/Mar/10 AltLd
mattyork2 17/Feb/10 Lead dnf

Shut down by move onto ledge. Psyched out and intimidated and afraid to trust gear. Bring on the summer now please!

with Johnny Richard
Bobby Gilbert 31/Jan/10 Lead O/S

In a hail storm

with Sara Scaife
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
chris j 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Doug
Rob Davies 06/Sep/09 2nd
nickdonohue ?/Sep/09 Lead
with Kath Donohue
Hidden 28/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 26/May/09 2nd rpt
feilx 04/May/09 2nd rpt
with Andy L & Dave M
Dan_Carroll ?/Apr/09 Lead dnf

move up onto the thin shelf at 15ft is definitely harder than 5b. will go back to finish it at some point.

sinbad 22/Aug/08 Lead
eddy-on-the-rocks 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Sinbad
Huntlyfiddler 08/Aug/08 2nd
bpmclimb 08/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Bailed on this as the initial corner was running with water, which soaked me (and my chalk bag)! Looks good though - will return.

with Clare
Wil Treasure 08/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
feilx 30/Sep/07 2nd rpt
with Bern
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 02/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Ash
cornishben 25/May/07 Lead O/S
with barnaby carver
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
BarbsMurray 10/Aug/06 2nd
with Mikey
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd
jimdanson 31/May/06 2nd O/S
with Mike Adams
Tim Sparrow ?/Aug/05 -

Hot in the sun - cool breeze coming through the crack delightful on sore fingers.

with Pete Robinson
feilx ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with keith
tuftynick ??/2005 -
with nick warren
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
pete johnson ?/Aug/04 Lead
with Lun
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 07/Aug/03 Lead O/S
shoulders 03/Aug/02 Lead
with maria, mart, andy sharp, dai
lost.arrow 06/Jun/02 -
Chris Reid 05/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Paul Tanton
Hidden ??/2002 2nd O/S
andy_pemberton ?/Jun/01 Lead

also 2nd to Johnathon and Louise

with Brian Hannon
Ian Jones ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S


with Gary Wickham, Matt York
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 16/Jun/99 Lead O/S

16 or 17 June 1999

with KM
chris sm 01/May/99 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
PaulTanton 09/Aug/98 Lead O/S
craig h 28/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
Greg Cunningham ??/1997 Lead
with dave langrish
frost ?/May/95 Lead
Cowflinger ?/Aug/94 Lead
Mark Kemball 27/Jul/94 Lead
with Matt Vigg
Nigel Coe ??/1994 Lead
jcw ??/1994 2nd
with Martin Harris
Roget 17/Sep/93 Lead O/S
with jon
pete johnson ?/Aug/93 2nd
with Hughie
Martin Bennett 11/Apr/93 -
with SF
Eduardo Martinez 30/Dec/91 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
Ashley Hold 08/Jun/88 2nd
with Glyn Davies
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 19/May/86 -
Hidden 26/Apr/86 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/86 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1977 -
with FMC
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 33
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set