UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
35m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

FFA. Ron Fawcett 1982. FA. Jeff Morgan, H.Mares (as the Prowler) 1970..

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic UK F7s , World Graded List , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , 28 Decent Sport Routes , Definitive *** Peak Lime

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Farnell 14 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very soft 7b+ IMHO, possibly just hard 7b, as once you've got to the break the top section doesn't add any real difficulty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very soft 7b+ IMHO, possibly just hard 7b, as once you've got to the break the top section doesn't add any real difficulty.
stone elworthy 2 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: with the new bolts it now seems friendly going to the bodymachine belay -well worth doing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: with the new bolts it now seems friendly going to the bodymachine belay -well worth doing.
Alan James - Rockfax 8 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: 7b+ to the main belay. You don\'t place any extra gear and, although the fixed stuff is poor there is enough of it; no trad route thus far. Pitch 2 is different. Not sure about to the first break. I would still say baby 7b+. Feels a lot easier if you have done it loads of times but the crux sequence is difficult to read.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 7b+ to the main belay. You don't place any extra gear and, although the fixed stuff is poor there is enough of it; no trad route thus far. Pitch 2 is different. Not sure about to the first break. I would still say baby 7b+. Feels a lot easier if you have done it loads of times but the crux sequence is difficult to read.

Logged Ascents

142 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Underground Resistance

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Dale Quarry (Wirksworth))

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