UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
18m.

Rockfax Description
Start up A Little Extra but pull left to gain the line of Hot Flushes. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
utterly desperate if following the obvious holds.

FA. Malcom Taylor, Jon de Montjoye, Simon Nadin 1989.

Ticklists

The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
teddy 5 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A slightly easier way has been discovered which misses out slopey crimps on crux altogether. Reach a long way past and slightly right of them with the LEFT hand from pinch-crimp for the RH just above 1st independent bolt to higher small slopey edge above the slopy crimps normally used for RIGHT hand on original method (feels improbably long way but keep rocking!...easy 6b compared to hanging more difficult slopy crimps). An easier move to good positive crimp high up and right which isn't used on original method then follows (rockover on high small edge out right). Reach back left to clip last bolt. This is still 7b+ overall but must be easier than the original method. Nice route, shame about big rest under overlap and fact its all a bit escapable higher up but moves are cool.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A slightly easier way has been discovered which misses out slopey crimps on crux altogether. Reach a long way past and slightly right of them with the LEFT hand from pinch-crimp for the RH just above 1st independent bolt to higher small slopey edge above the slopy crimps normally used for RIGHT hand on original method (feels improbably long way but keep rocking!...easy 6b compared to hanging more difficult slopy crimps). An easier move to good positive crimp high up and right which isn't used on original method then follows (rockover on high small edge out right). Reach back left to clip last bolt. This is still 7b+ overall but must be easier than the original method. Nice route, shame about big rest under overlap and fact its all a bit escapable higher up but moves are cool.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sardine

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Raven Tor (Miller's Dale))

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