Rockfax Description
A classic polished Peak landmark which is still a tough route to onsight. There are a few ways of doing the lower crux and the upper wall is not to be underestimated either, with a tricky move or two moving right near the top. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett 1981. This ascent signified the change of Raven Tor from an aid climbing crag to a free climbing crag.

Ticklists: Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+, Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, 28 Decent Sport Routes, Peak limestone north graded list - sport, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rock cats getting strong.

Patrick Hill 13/Oct/17 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Oct/17 Lead RP
Gus 30/Sep/17 Lead
with chris barr
Hidden 26/Sep/17 TR dog
ferdia 22/Sep/17 Lead

two falls on the crux on flash attempt then one fall second go. worked out some better beta for next time. a truly godawful route. don't bother trying it unless every other route in the country miraculously melts.

with Heliya Badaksian
Hannes B 22/Sep/17 Lead rpt
with DebsB
Duncan Campbell 16/Sep/17 Lead RP
with Heliya
James Oswald 15/Sep/17 Lead RP

Glad to do this. Went up first and did all the moves and then lead it. Went slightly too high going right towards the top and got very pumped reversing. Tough!

with Rob Grant
Jonathan Hall 12/Sep/17 TR dog
soph 10/Sep/17 TR RP

Whoop - ankle is on the mend! Playing it safe with a 'top rope tick'...

with Andy Cave
MathewWright1998 05/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Not too sure if I followed the right line towards the last 3 metres but I definitely climbed the lower crux. Amazed myself by managing to onsight this by the skin of my teeth!

will6459 03/Sep/17 Lead RP
Elliot Walker 30/Aug/17 -
with Nicky
drcorbasisgod 28/Aug/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Aug/17 Lead RP
Jo Stadden 14/Aug/17 Lead RP
thejunglist 27/Jul/17 TR rpt


with Timmy G
The old James turnbull 22/Jul/17 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 19/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Tom Bridgeland
samrad 18/Jul/17 Lead β

Small amount of beta.

with Dominique
robertmctague 15/Jun/17 Lead

Retroflash; tried a while ago with Theo.

with Marc
Misha 11/Jun/17 Lead RP

Second go today. Remembered the moves fairly quickly on the first go but the initial traverse was still pumpy and powerful. On the redpoint, sketched through it to the rest and spent a while there depumping and waiting for the fingers to warm up. Did the crux moves to the pockets fine and again spent a while on the rest above. Wasn't too tired for the tricky traverse at the top so that went ok. Good to get this done.

with Eszter
Hidden 28/May/17 Lead RP
Hidden 18/May/17 TR dog
Hidden 13/May/17 Lead RP
Hidden 13/May/17 2nd dog
Hidden 12/May/17 TR dog
Andy Peak 1 11/May/17 Lead dog

All the climbing done to the top all boiling down to one move.

Andy Peak 1 28/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Upto the crux in one working on the step up to the overhead pinch!

Hidden 28/Apr/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Apr/17 Lead RP
ninastirrup 12/Apr/17 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Apr/17 Lead rpt
drcorbasisgod ?/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Marc Weisner
amccann 12/Mar/17 Lead rpt
tomsmartacus ??/2017 -
Hidden 20/Oct/16 Lead rpt
Misha 16/Oct/16 Lead dog

Three goes. Working out the beta took a lot out on the first go. Cool move standing up on the ledge off an undercut but the crux is just above. Had a decent go on the third go but got the feet wrong. Managed with one rest so should go whenever I'm next there... Crux felt harder than Tin Of.

with Eszter
Hidden 15/Oct/16 TR dog
Natalie Berry - UKC 15/Oct/16 Lead RP

Tricky crux. Wimped out placing quickdraws near crux on onsight!

Hidden ?/Oct/16 Lead RP
BillyRidal 13/Sep/16 Sent x

4 years later I actually do this clean... Not that great in my opinion.

Dave Bond 07/Sep/16 Lead rpt

3 times

with mike
Kris suriyo 31/Aug/16 Lead RP
AlistairB 29/Aug/16 Lead RP

Second go. Dropped the crux on flash go then dogged to top. A much better route than I expected.

with Tom
Joshua Robertson 26/Jul/16 Lead RP
Ian Broome 10/Jul/16 Lead RP

Couple of goes, tried a couple of years ago.

with Al
Chris_barr 09/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Theo
Hidden 26/Jun/16 Lead RP
Alice.001 25/Jun/16 Lead RP

Hardest route in the world...first go was the best then it was trying again and again and again...

Hidden 25/Jun/16 Lead RP
LBrown 21/Jun/16 Lead
James Oakes 19/Jun/16 Lead RP

Fell off crux on onsight, climbed bolt to bolt and went next go.

Jake Young 22/May/16 Lead RP

didn't feel too bad today

with Alex M
Adam_42 19/May/16 TR dog

Horrendous route. I kind of liked it. Three times for fitness.

ollyisaclimber 19/May/16 Lead RP

2nd go.

with Josh
Wil Treasure 19/May/16 Lead
with Adam_42
morganator 13/May/16 Lead dnf
with Rob Grant
dom94 07/Apr/16 Lead RP

Cool to get this done

will9911 02/Apr/16 Lead RP

First rp. Bottom very wet and slippery

with tim
thejunglist 01/Apr/16 Lead RP

Junglist massive!! So pumped at the top

with Simon Kinkers, Timmy G
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 20/Mar/16 TR rpt
with Ben Silvestre
The old James turnbull 01/Mar/16 Lead

X3 by head torch. Weird but awesome fun

with nathan lee, simon kimber
pete1993 25/Feb/16 TR dog

was trying to work the moves out but was just too cold to try them properly, will be back when its a bit warmer

with Alex
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 22/Feb/16 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2016 -
ashtond6 12/Dec/15 TR dnf

Got all the moves to 2/3 height where it was wet

FreddieSmith 06/Dec/15 Lead RP
shaunhumphreys 14/Sep/15 Lead RP

3rd go! Felt weirdly scared when above clips with the polish!

harry_lewis 09/Sep/15 Lead RP
Jonny Nick 29/Aug/15 Lead RP

Super psyched to get this classic in the bag, and fairly quickly too. Nearly blew it at the very top on the easy moves after traversing right, so pumped... But just held it together

with cjd91
Jonny Nick 24/Aug/15 Lead dog
cjd91 18/Aug/15 Lead RP

Warmed up with some small links putting the bolts in, then got it 1st redpoint! Wish all routes went like this!

with bobbie
amccann 11/Aug/15 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Aug/15 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Jul/15 TR dog
Gus 22/Jun/15 Lead
with hayden jones
PeterDawson 21/Jun/15 Lead β
Albert Exley 07/Jun/15 Lead RP

First 7b+

Albert Exley 05/Jun/15 Lead dog

Really should have sent this... got through crux and to traverse at top and dropped it, then tried again, messed up crux (really thin skin) then got from crux to belay

Andy Peak 1 04/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Luke Dawson 04/Jun/15 Lead rpt
The old James turnbull 01/Jun/15 Lead rpt

5 times this eve. Thought I'd be crap, but not too crap.

sev 30/May/15 Lead dog
nathanlee 27/May/15 Lead

Had tried this yonks ago. Felt pretty onsight, enjoyable

with Michaela Tracy, Rob Greenwood
Albert Exley 27/May/15 Lead dog
Ed Booth 17/May/15 Lead β

Had done Tin Of but on sighted the rest

with Joe, Rob Ireson, Adam Booth
Nick Sherring 02/May/15 Lead dog

Rain. Big diagonal wipper after doing the lower cruxes OK. Oh dear.

Nick1812P 01/May/15 Lead RP

2nd go.

with Clement
dannyboy83 24/Apr/15 Lead RP
Nick Sherring 18/Apr/15 Lead dog

worked it out now, too hot and sunny yesterday though, exhausting!

Nick Sherring 12/Apr/15 2nd dog

Good working session, moves pretty well sorted, fresh body required!

with Martyn
MartinPL 11/Apr/15 Lead

hard to find the line amongst tens of different bolts :) once to know where to climb then goes easier

Nickc ?/Apr/15 Lead RP
with Ste
drcorbasisgod 27/Mar/15 Lead RP
with Scott Walter
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2015 -
Tommyads ??/2015 -

Really happy I climbed something on my first time at Raven Tor. Was expecting to get nailed! Lots to come back for.

Ed morris 31/Oct/14 Lead RP
with harry, Cherry
Hidden 18/Aug/14 TR dog
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead dog
Luke Dawson 27/May/14 Lead RP
Ally Smith 25/May/14 Lead rpt
with Broome
tebs 23/May/14 Lead RP

IN. THE. SATCH. Thanks everyone for the belays and psyche!

with John crook, Burns
simon kimber 12/May/14 Lead RP
tebs 11/May/14 Lead dog

The saga continues!

with Phil, Andy
Lex Wilkinson 06/May/14 Lead RP
marcduhig 05/May/14 Lead RP

2nd go with expert beta. Ta Hydn

with Haydn
Hidden 02/May/14 TR
dan gibson 22/Apr/14 Lead RP
with julie carroll, sam read
piken 15/Apr/14 Lead RP
Ellis Butler-Barker 10/Apr/14 Lead β
with Ethan Walker
tebs 05/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Predictably spanked

with Adam
Hidden 09/Mar/14 TR dnf
Nigel Leeming ?/Mar/14 Lead
steepstuff ??/2014 Lead RP
NDD ??/2014 Lead
Ethan 17/Oct/13 Lead
with Matt Fry
Tophe 09/Oct/13 Lead RP
with Jonny P, Dan
rikbattye 06/Oct/13 Lead RP
Steve Hickie ?/Oct/13 Lead
Keendan 19/Sep/13 Lead RP

Taught me some technique, required to stop barndooring from the undercut.

tebs 11/Sep/13 Lead dog
with Duncan, Wil
tebs 02/Sep/13 Lead dog


with Andy
tebs 31/Jul/13 Lead dog

Nope. Trying it the higher (and easier) way through the crux.

with Wil
Haydn Jones 23/Jul/13 Lead RP

Tricky not even close to onsighting this

Dave Turnbull, BMC 04/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Keefe Murphy
justin c ?/Jul/13 Lead RP

Easier than tin of but a slightly harder crux

with steph crowley
tebs 27/Jun/13 Lead dog

No send yet.

with Aidan, Rich, Burns
Dave Turnbull, BMC 26/Jun/13 TR

Grim tonight, hard work

with Niall Grimes, Debbie Birch
tebs 23/Jun/13 TR dog

Knackered today so everything felt ridiculously hard. Sorted some better feet for the two traverse sections though so not a wasted day

with Andy
tebs 22/Jun/13 TR dog

Felt like I was making progress today, got a crux sequence dialled.

with Andy
Hidden 13/Jun/13 Lead dog
blaza1 24/May/13 Lead RP
tebs 11/May/13 TR dog
with Andy
Hidden 24/Apr/13 Lead RP
highrepute 07/Apr/13 Lead RP

2nd Go

Hidden 03/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Oct/12 TR dog
Wil Treasure 13/Oct/12 TR
with Andy Gray
Hidden 29/Sep/12 -
willoates 11/Sep/12 Lead RP

this route taught me that 15 minutes of dangling on the rope to work out the best sequence could save a day in futile redpoint efforts. Once I changed the sequence it was pretty easy although I did nearly fluff it on the move right at the top that I had no idea how to do.

with Air, Sam Davies
Luuuuuke 23/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Si
Hannes B 10/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Tom J
JBO 07/Jul/12 Lead β

I'm gonna call it a flash because I'd previously done the section shared with Toadside when I did that, the rest was onsight... Did it in the best style I could though, with no falls. Maybe not worth 3*, but definitely worth 7b+.

Rachel Slater 07/Jul/12 TR dog
with Nigel Slater, Olli Crudge, Andrea Morgan
mark20 25/Jun/12 Lead RP
J.Wells 24/Jun/12 Lead RP
with Guy Van Greuning
Wil Treasure 20/May/12 Lead RP
Wil Treasure 15/May/12 Lead dog

2 sessions on it this year, hadn't been on it for several years (and was only really dabbling when I was, being nowhere close). Annoyingly I did it clean on toprope unexpectably, but then hadn't thought about the clips on lead.

with Dunc
dominic lee 14/May/12 Lead rpt


with molly, nathan lee
Hidden 08/May/12 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Apr/12 TR
Duncan Disorderly ?/Apr/12 Lead RP
EllaRus ??/2012 Lead RP
with john
AdamHodgson ??/2012 Lead RP
con321 25/Nov/11 Lead RP

Cool climb :)

Hidden 03/Nov/11 TR
i_a_coops 25/Sep/11 Lead RP
with Jacob
maybe_si 08/Sep/11 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead RP
peaches69 16/Aug/11 Lead RP

dogged it in flipflops wiv clipstick, top roped unclean twice, so many holds an sequences, redpointed clean 1st go

with jack, connor
jack1996 16/Aug/11 TR dnf
with connor, si
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead RP
Brown 11/Aug/11 Lead
with James T
maybe_si 29/Jul/11 TR RP

linked twice in a session, will lead next time!

robbo 23/Jul/11 Lead RP

First tick this year after 2 month layoff due to injury. Great climb. Went 4th redpoint. Should have gone on 3rd.

with Adam Hodgson
jamiev 23/Jul/11 Lead RP


with Tim Parkinson
PeteH 18/Jul/11 Lead RP

Second redpoint. Very surprised it went. Cake-loading the day before had a key role, I feel.

with Arran Deakin
Jordan B 18/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with James Foley
jamiev 17/Jul/11 Lead dog

3x to top: put clips in, then 2 working redpoints. Did in 2 sections incl from below crux to top.

with Tim Parkinson
Hidden 17/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Harriet Rebecca Hall ?/Jul/11 Lead RP

Hard for me not my style but fun climb.

Harriet Rebecca Hall ?/Jul/11 Lead RP

Hard for me not my style but fun climb.

Stefan Gallagher 29/Jun/11 Lead RP
Stig 05/Jun/11 Lead RP

First red point, first 7b+. A peak landmark and personal milestone!

with Goi
Stig 27/May/11 TR dog

Several good links, through to crux, crux in isolation, sorted top section well.

with Goi
goi.ashmore 27/May/11 Lead RP
with James Rees
Wood for Trees 25/May/11 TR dog

A very long way, couldn't even do the crux in isolation

Lex Wilkinson 17/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 10/May/11 TR
jamiev 07/May/11 Lead dog

One good redpoint attempt, and 1 and a half poor attempts

with Tim Parkinson
Hidden 19/Apr/11 TR dog
Hidden 19/Apr/11 TR
jamiev 14/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead dog
mic_b 28/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Heidi
Dave Turnbull, BMC 18/Mar/11 TR rpt

no falls first go

kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Nov/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead rpt
Dave Turnbull, BMC 07/Oct/10 Lead dog
with Neil Foster
Adam Lincoln 21/Sep/10 Lead RP
with Arran Deakin
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead RP
belay bunny turned bad 18/Sep/10 TR dog
with loundsy
gregoritos 09/Sep/10 Lead RP

2nd go. Respect to Dave and Jack dirtbagging it under the crag on a diet of weed and kfc.

Hidden 09/Sep/10 TR dog
jamiev 26/Aug/10 TR dog
with Tim Parkinson
Hidden 19/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Jul/10 Lead RP
Dave Turnbull, BMC 20/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Neil Foster
Hidden 20/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jul/10 Lead rpt
nai 06/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Nigel & Juan
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 01/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Rachel and Alison
mattyork2 27/May/10 Lead RP

Sixth session? Reasonably psyched for more Tor action. Will get routes like this faster if spend time: - looking for a good efficient redpoint sequence - climbing efficiently and smoothly through bits that I know are easy- visualising the sequence on the ground and lots of mental rehearsal - also rehearse moves coming up from the shakeouts

with Brian McAlinden
Hidden 17/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/May/10 Lead dog
Hidden 13/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 13/May/10 Lead RP
mattyork2 15/Apr/10 TR dog

In halves

marcpontin ?/Apr/10 Lead RP

hard way

mattyork2 13/Mar/10 Lead dog
with Ryan
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
Simon Davis ??/2010 Lead RP
with Bourney
Dale Comley ??/2010 Lead RP
mattyork2 08/Nov/09 TR dog

Three goes on top rope. Climbed it in two halves on last go. More power needed or stamina....?hmmmmm.

with Debbie Birch
bigie bob 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 07/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Debbie Birch
Hidden 06/Sep/09 TR dnf
Hidden 24/Jul/09 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jul/09 Lead dog
steve_biczyk 08/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Keith Clarke
Hidden 08/Jul/09 TR dog
Hidden 07/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jul/09 TR RP
dominic lee 04/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with neil foster
marcpontin ?/Jul/09 Lead RP
with huw
Andrew Barker 30/Jun/09 Lead RP

Tried it once a few years ago when I was nowhere near good enough and took a big fall after the crux. Got it second go today after a wussy go to put the clips up when I seemed incapable of falling off even when there was a clip by my knees!

with Chunk
Hidden 11/Jun/09 TR dog
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 07/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Bob Smith
Hidden 06/Jun/09 Lead dog
Dan 85 19/May/09 Lead RP

Tall persons way. Scary clip after crux

with Malcolm, Luke P
ASchwirtz 15/Mar/09 TR dog
tatz45 12/Nov/08 Lead RP
jondude 16/Sep/08 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead RP
Matt Fry 01/Sep/08 Lead RP
TomHaigh 07/Aug/08 Lead RP

In your face Turnbull!!

Somerset swede basher 07/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Emma
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Jun/08 Lead β
Franco Cookson OLD 01/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead RP
Mick B 12/Feb/08 Lead RP
with Al Austin
Fraser13 ??/2008 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2008 -
Dave Bond 30/Sep/07 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead RP
Rowansb 18/Aug/07 TR dog
Hidden 16/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Rob Grant 01/Aug/07 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/07 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Jul/07 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
skygodley 01/May/07 Lead RP

took me a second go with some beta from karen, thought Tin Of was harder though!

with Fitbird
Hidden 01/May/07 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Apr/07 Lead dog
fizzy_elephant 22/Apr/07 TR dog
with Lloyd Betsworth
Hidden 17/Apr/07 Lead RP
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 29/Mar/07 Lead
with Nic Sellers
craig d ?/Mar/07 Lead rpt
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
willackers ??/2007 Lead RP
with Rob Napier
Hidden 08/Oct/06 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Sep/06 Lead rpt
jamiev 16/Sep/06 Lead dog

crux sorted...just got to redpoint

Ram MkiV 06/Sep/06 Lead RP

Warmed up putting the clips in then got it first go. Just one hard sequence.

with Alex
Hidden 03/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Mar/06 TR dog
mgeek ??/2006 Lead RP
with Tom Bolger
Boy ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2006 -
ukb & bmc shark 08/Oct/05 Lead rpt
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 17/Apr/05 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 18/Aug/01 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jun/01 Lead β
kristian ??/2001 -
RossG123 ??/2001 Lead RP
climber34neil ??/2001 -
RossG ??/2000 -
Billg ?/May/99 Lead rpt
with Phil McAllistair
Hidden 11/Jun/98 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jun/98 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Mar/98 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Oct/97 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Sep/97 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/97 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/97 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/97 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/May/97 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/May/97 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/May/97 Lead rpt
sadams ?/Mar/97 -
Roget 11/Aug/96 Lead RP
with jon
Greg Cunningham ??/1995 Lead RP
mattnuttall ?/Aug/94 Lead β


with Gareth Parry
Billg 06/Jul/94 Lead RP
Stoney Boy 02/May/94 Lead RP
Dave Douglas 07/Jul/93 Lead β
with Ed Morgan
Ian Jones ??/1992 Lead RP
with Graeme Alderson, Paul Newman, Steve 'Crusher' Bartlett, Mick Ward
Seb Grieve ??/1991 Lead RP

Nails E5. Now seems to get 7b+

Fakey Rocks ??/1990 Lead RP

Shunted, top roped, dogged, redpointed. Not sure of year yet, probably 89 - 90.

Fakey Rocks ??/1990 Lead dog
Fakey Rocks ??/1989 TR dnf
Hidden ??/1989 -
Mike Owen 01/May/88 Lead rpt

Got dragged up it by Phil Davidson 15/8/82, so not on-sight.

with Elaine Owen
Bruce Kerr 17/Jul/87 Lead
with Colin Gilchrist
Hidden 30/Jun/87 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 Lead RP
keefe ??/1986 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/84 -
stp ??/1984 Lead

falls, dogging, soon became a training route then a warm up.

with Chris Plant
Mark Kemball 28/Jun/83 Lead dnf
with Paul Clark
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High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 89
Votes cast 73
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set