48m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Intricate route finding in wild positions - an underrated classic which needs a steady second. Be aware of the state of the old fixed gear and back it up.
1) 5b, 15m. Leave the Castellan cave along the lower break, as for Delicatessen, to the stance on Lyme Cryme.
2) 5c, 15m. Traverse back left for 2m and pull up into a shallow groove from the right. Climb the groove (slightly bold) to gain a crack leading to a bong (a big old peg). Clip this then drop back down and make a hard finger traverse left to a stance on Laurin. There are good thread belays under the roof above.
3) 5c, 18m. Climb to the roof and undercut leftwards (peg) under the roof. Finish up the loose groove (old gear).
An alternative is The Phrantic Finish, E3 5c which tackles the roof direct to a good hold on the lip. © Rockfax

FFA. Pete Livesey, Pete Gomersall 1975. FA. Charles David Yates, Steve Read 1974.

Ticklists: World Graded List, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

The Grist 08/Apr Lead O/S

A really enjoyable route. I got to lead it all including the approach pitch. The traverse looked harder than it actually was. The pockets were better than they looked. Last pitch had a bold sequence at the end of the traverse. Felt good to get this all clean.

with Lee Hamilton
eel 10/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with bigdrew
bigdrew 10/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Wanted to do this for ages. Well good! Lead Lyme Cryme to start and then the last pitch. Will be back for the direct finish :)

with Eve
Andy Moles 13/Apr/16 AltLd

Started up Lyme Cryme and finished up this via a reverse of part of Fantasia...basically I led the top pitch of NoBD.

with Ben Silvestre
loose overhang ??/2016 -

This climb was first seen by me as I walked underneath High Tor on a fine evening in the spring of 1974. It was an astonishing sight to my eyes in those days --- that no one had climbed it yet. I pieced together the line and imagined the exposure and possibility of good holds as it went up and over to the left through the overhangs. Perhaps the best line on the crag. Alas, it was not to be mine. Being perhaps too trusting, I told of my vision to the first one to climb it. By the time I had spent the summer in N. Wales, the Lakes, Scotland and the Alps it was too late - it had been climbed. The lesson for me was to never tell other climbers of good looking lines. At the time it felt like a betrayal of friendship and trust.

ellis 07/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Tom Holdsworth
markalmack 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Was gripped most of the way up. Found this hard for e3

with little tom
Duncan Campbell 10/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2 and 3. Thought p2 was a bit more than slightly bold off the belay but I haven't done much trad in a while. Really enjoyed the crux traverse left. (It is very easy to protect the second on this by clipping one rope into the thread under the roof, and leaving them free to clip the other into the leaver biner on the bong). Bubbles made a valiant attempt at the top pitch only to be thwarted a few moves from easier ground. Good effort mate.

with Bubbles
Rachel Slater 27/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

P1 and 3.

tim newton 27/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the bolted 6b approach pitch and then pitch 2 of the route.

Martin Haworth 16/Aug/14 AltLd dog
Brannock 16/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 and 3, pitch 2, hard above the belay without much gear, then some great pocket pulling to finish the pitch, p3 had some moments as well. Great route, really good positions.

mike mo ??/2014 -
Neil McA 22/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Did a great link up using P1 of Lyme Cryme then P2 & P3 of Nightmare giving a super sustained top end E3 with 3 x E3 pitches, possibly the longest most sustained E3 in the Peak in this form?

with Sophie, Jon Morgan
soph 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Neil McAdie, jon morgan
morganator 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Neil McAdie, Sophie Whyte
philhilo 09/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Led 1st and last pitches. Fell of the traverse on P2 - solid 6a traverse on next to nothing. Top roof pitch felt easy for 5c - thankfully.

with misha
Misha 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Evening hit on a boiling hot day. Did the F6b approach pitch, which was enjoyable. Got pretty hot on that but afterwards the temperature was pleasant. Phil led P1, which required commitment but the crux was over in a flash. I got the crux second pitch. Mildly bold 5c to enter the groove, then pleasantly easy, then the crux traverse, which was desperate! 6a for sure. Main issue was poor feet on a couple of the moves. I managed it ok but it was close! Phil came off seconding but didn't go far as I passed his ropes through gear above the traverse. Phil finished with the third pitch - only one 5c sequence and some 5b but a good pitch nonetheless. A good, varied route.

with Phil
JRae 12/May/12 2nd

Backed off top pitch after trying to go the wrong way up the E5 a few times and being a massive fem. Pretty tough fingery crux.

with Liam P
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
jshields 08/Jun/11 AltLd

Paul led pitches 2+3, great effort despite a fall. Bit of a nightmare!

with Paul Tretheway
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead

Last pitch only - led after failing to get through the overhang on Laurin.

with Andy S & Dominic O
metal arms 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Led all pitches

Adam Long 28/Jul/10 AltLd

Great route. Added the logical started up Lyme Cryme. Beware rope drag if you run the top pitches together...

with Char Williams
Hidden 11/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Mike Todd 11/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 21/Mar/10 AltLd

P1 of Laurin + top pitch of NBD as Laurin P2 crack full of soil & wet

nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
JulesV 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with toby dunn
Pete Graham 02/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 01/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Kim Hayward
Ram MkiV 14/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

led middle pitch

with Al
Alex Mason 14/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Lead first and third pitch, quite tricky climbing through the roof, great route, well varied in grade and style.

alaan 10/May/08 AltLd

Took a higher traverse on the first pitch (common with Laurin?) and downclimbed to the stance, which was desperate!

with Aly
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Boy ??/2006 -
ukb & bmc shark 22/Jul/05 AltLd rpt
with Mike Garton
Dave Bond 07/Jun/05 AltLd
with Simon Wren
nickdonohue ?/Sep/02 Lead
with Jim Barradale
William Robertson ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Emily
steepstuff ??/2000 -
Andy Edgar ??/2000 Lead


with Hugh Woodland
Hidden 26/Apr/99 Lead O/S
duncan 20/Sep/97 AltLd
with Dan Donovan
Rich Kirby 22/May/95 AltLd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 22/May/95 AltLd
Stoney Boy 01/May/93 Lead O/S

Led Pitch 3

with Bob Marks, Neil McCallum
Billg 13/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
Hidden ??/1990 -
Pete Ogden ??/1990 AltLd
with Pete Brown
Hidden 26/Mar/89 AltLd
uphillnow ??/1988 2nd

no record but either Andrew Horn or Charlie French?

Hidden 29/Aug/87 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/87 Lead O/S
Seb Grieve 20/May/87 AltLd
AlexRenshaw 10/Dec/86 2nd
with Simon Donowho
sadams 01/Aug/86 AltLd
with Kevin Edwards
Hidden 16/Jul/86 AltLd
Derek Furze ??/1986 -
ukb & bmc shark 09/Mar/85 AltLd O/S
with Dave Marsh
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Andy Nicholson ??/1984 AltLd O/S
with Derek Hersey
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis
TonyF ??/1983 AltLd
with Tony Cox, Martin Lancaster
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1982 Lead
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
nbotting ??/1982 AltLd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Paul Clarke ??/1980 AltLd
with FMC
Hidden ??/1978 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 23
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set