35m.

Rockfax Description
The perfect introduction to the E5 grade and on the perfect cliff. Spicy, but safe with a bit of Buoux thrown in. Climb direct from the Original Route start to rejoin the route in its main groove. Climb up and place some wires then follow the thin crack in the arete until it runs out. Climb coolly to the jug (or thread hold?) and regain your composure. Move up the thin wall above (hidden peg on the left) with one final hard move to pass the break and gain the belay on Original Route. © Rockfax

FA. Phil Burke, Nadim Siddiqui, Al Evans 1979

Ticklists

The High Tor Top Ten, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, James' Summer Ticklist, Classic Lobs

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Adam Lincoln 8 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Tat replaced as of today.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tat replaced as of today.
phatlad 19 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful, "deliciously run out", technical and genuinely good fun. On a beautiful summer's days you'd think you were in Buoux. One of the best routes bar none.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful, "deliciously run out", technical and genuinely good fun. On a beautiful summer's days you'd think you were in Buoux. One of the best routes bar none.
Tom Briggs 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Wandering, escapable, overgraded and overrated! OK, that may be a bit unfair, but it really is like a F6b+ at an average crag in France.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wandering, escapable, overgraded and overrated! OK, that may be a bit unfair, but it really is like a F6b+ at an average crag in France.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JBO 12 Aug Lead RP Retro-flash? Onsight attempt was 6 years ago aged 17, when I got gripped and grabbed the thread. Went ground-up again this time, couldn't remember anything so it felt like an onsight again, but this time headed direct for the jug instead of the thread, which Dad reckoned was harder. Wall above is still tough.
Retro-flash? Onsight attempt was 6 years ago aged 17, when I got gripped and grabbed the thread. Went ground-up again this time, couldn't remember anything so it felt like an onsight again, but this time headed direct for the jug instead of the thread, which Dad reckoned was harder. Wall above is still tough.
Andrew1 7 Aug Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 31 May 2nd dog
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 31 May Lead O/S
Adam24B 21 Mar Lead G/U After taking a lob just below the thread, got back on later in the day and made it through. Glad to be almost back to strength after surgery!
After taking a lob just below the thread, got back on later in the day and made it through. Glad to be almost back to strength after surgery!
Dan Wright 21 Mar 2nd dnf
James Oakes 16 Feb Lead O/S
with Henry Francis
with Henry Francis
Hidden 18 Aug, 2018 2nd dog
Gus 17 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Sloth claws
with Sloth claws
Mike_Hayes 16 May, 2018 Lead O/S Well as onsight as it can be having abbed down the face 10 times. Better than 2 stars in the new guide.
with Mike Lea
Well as onsight as it can be having abbed down the face 10 times. Better than 2 stars in the new guide.
with Mike Lea
anguskille 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S
dominic lee 8 Apr, 2018 Lead rpt
with daniel lee
with daniel lee
mrteale 6 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf Didn't get very far at all. Got onto the face below the thread and then had a case of MFS (Massive Fanny Syndrome) and didn't commit. Tried to reverse for a rest and punted off. Not enough time for another go today. V. impressive flash by Harry.
Didn't get very far at all. Got onto the face below the thread and then had a case of MFS (Massive Fanny Syndrome) and didn't commit. Tried to reverse for a rest and punted off. Not enough time for another go today. V. impressive flash by Harry.
harry_lewis 6 Sep, 2017 Lead β
with Ed Teale
with Ed Teale
Tom Livingstone 6 Aug, 2017 2nd β
with TS
with TS
hugo glover 21 Jul, 2017 -
ian bryant 7 Jul, 2017 Lead RP I've done 8as in fewer attempts! But actually enjoyed the air time!
I've done 8as in fewer attempts! But actually enjoyed the air time!
ian bryant 25 Jun, 2017 Lead dog Very hard onsight
Very hard onsight
Duncan Campbell 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Brilliant. Misha gave me some gear beta but I spent more time faffing trying to put the size wire in he suggested before putting in what I thought would go in, so gonna take the onsight! Crux for me was above the break though the initial section out from original route is also tricky (not too bad to thread) nearly missed the hidden peg!
with Misha
Brilliant. Misha gave me some gear beta but I spent more time faffing trying to put the size wire in he suggested before putting in what I thought would go in, so gonna take the onsight! Crux for me was above the break though the initial section out from original route is also tricky (not too bad to thread) nearly missed the hidden peg!
with Misha
ferdia 13 May, 2017 2nd
Ged Desforges 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S Fairly steady climbing but fiddly gear. Brilliant route.
Fairly steady climbing but fiddly gear. Brilliant route.
southern_smit 1 May, 2017 TR enjoyed the moves on a top rope
enjoyed the moves on a top rope
Toby Dunn ??, 2017 Lead
Hidden 4 Oct, 2016 TR β
Adam Long 17 Sep, 2016 2nd Blew my go faffing, lowered off. Felt fine on 2nd going straight to thread.
with Char Williams
Blew my go faffing, lowered off. Felt fine on 2nd going straight to thread.
with Char Williams
eel 10 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with bigdrew
with bigdrew
ejected ??, 2016 -
James Oswald 15 Aug, 2015 2nd dog With 1 rest before the upper crux because I committed to doing it the wrong way... Ace route, though the little pockets are hard to use.
with Malcolm Scott
With 1 rest before the upper crux because I committed to doing it the wrong way... Ace route, though the little pockets are hard to use.
with Malcolm Scott
James Oswald 15 Aug, 2015 2nd With 1 rest before the upper crux because I committed to doing it the wrong way... Ace route, though the little pockets are hard to use.
with Malcolm Scott
With 1 rest before the upper crux because I committed to doing it the wrong way... Ace route, though the little pockets are hard to use.
with Malcolm Scott
malx 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Just fantastic
Just fantastic
rocksol ??, 2015 -
Brannock 28 Sep, 2014 2nd
Misha 28 Sep, 2014 Lead Got it! Tried it about a year ago and took several flyers but was going the wrong (aka hard) way direct to the jug. This time aimed for the thread, up and right from the undercut above the crucial nut. Still hard but the pockets are just about good enough. Clipping the thread from below is hard, better to move up and clip it with a hand in the line of pockets at the thread as there's a decent foothold so it's a semi-resting position. Move left to the jug and breathe, really good rest and same when clipping the hidden peg above. A short pocketed slab tries to lull you into complacency before the final steepening with a tricky balancy 6a move, felt very on/off as only had one foot on - stayed on! A few 5b/c pulls and it's in the bag! Excellent climbing and really pleased to do it reasonably quickly instead of hanging around for ages as usual - on the hard bits it's vicious enough to impel you to move on, just have to read it right as reversing would be hard.
Got it! Tried it about a year ago and took several flyers but was going the wrong (aka hard) way direct to the jug. This time aimed for the thread, up and right from the undercut above the crucial nut. Still hard but the pockets are just about good enough. Clipping the thread from below is hard, better to move up and clip it with a hand in the line of pockets at the thread as there's a decent foothold so it's a semi-resting position. Move left to the jug and breathe, really good rest and same when clipping the hidden peg above. A short pocketed slab tries to lull you into complacency before the final steepening with a tricky balancy 6a move, felt very on/off as only had one foot on - stayed on! A few 5b/c pulls and it's in the bag! Excellent climbing and really pleased to do it reasonably quickly instead of hanging around for ages as usual - on the hard bits it's vicious enough to impel you to move on, just have to read it right as reversing would be hard.
LRob 4 Sep, 2014 Lead β Took ages to commit going for thread and found the the top hard. Amazing route.
Took ages to commit going for thread and found the the top hard. Amazing route.
david morse 31 Aug, 2014 Lead β On mark's gear. Not sure I'd have pressed on to the sling without a quickdraw hanging on it!
On mark's gear. Not sure I'd have pressed on to the sling without a quickdraw hanging on it!
markalmack 31 Aug, 2014 Lead RP Placed a couple of runners on the bulge on the ab. Knocks a grade off like this
Placed a couple of runners on the bulge on the ab. Knocks a grade off like this
Nick Sillem 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull 19 Aug, 2014 Lead Amazing, as most People do had a look on ab first then didn't climb it at all like I thought, felt Onsight! So good
with rich howells
Amazing, as most People do had a look on ab first then didn't climb it at all like I thought, felt Onsight! So good
with rich howells
dswansonlow 17 May, 2014 2nd O/S
nathanlee 13 Apr, 2014 Lead β Ready to lead when rain arrived yesterday. Harder and scarier than Supersonic!!
Ready to lead when rain arrived yesterday. Harder and scarier than Supersonic!!
Ricky Rocks 13 Apr, 2014 Lead β Brilliant airy run out to the thread and still a move or two to pull at the top, felt o/s though can't really claim as did Original route first..
Brilliant airy run out to the thread and still a move or two to pull at the top, felt o/s though can't really claim as did Original route first..
steve_yo 13 Apr, 2014 2nd
dominic lee 12 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt
harvie ??, 2014 Lead O/S
harvie ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Misha 22 Sep, 2013 Lead dnf Thought I'd give this a go as it's ultimately safe and it's easy to escape up Original Route. Had a look on the ab off Original Route earlier in the day and it seemed ok... Got as far as placing a nut in the last section of the discontinuous crack and promptly fell off going for the undercut. On subsequent goes found a decent rest in the crack with feet jammed in and worked out a way of getting up a little above the undercut but the next few moves to the jug looked nails. Took three more flyers and gave up as was getting tired and it was getting late and escaped up Original Route. Had a go at the sequence on the ab and it was still desperate but it seems there is an easier way out right to the thread. Worth coming back to...
with eduardo
Thought I'd give this a go as it's ultimately safe and it's easy to escape up Original Route. Had a look on the ab off Original Route earlier in the day and it seemed ok... Got as far as placing a nut in the last section of the discontinuous crack and promptly fell off going for the undercut. On subsequent goes found a decent rest in the crack with feet jammed in and worked out a way of getting up a little above the undercut but the next few moves to the jug looked nails. Took three more flyers and gave up as was getting tired and it was getting late and escaped up Original Route. Had a go at the sequence on the ab and it was still desperate but it seems there is an easier way out right to the thread. Worth coming back to...
with eduardo
Hidden 1 Sep, 2013 Lead
mike mo 1 Sep, 2013 2nd
Apharri 14 Aug, 2013 Lead RP Stupidly went off route first time. Tried to go too direct instead of heading rightwards towards thread
with Jim Gayler
Stupidly went off route first time. Tried to go too direct instead of heading rightwards towards thread
with Jim Gayler
Keendan 17 Jun, 2013 Lead β Climbed with a visiting Yank! Had a look at the holds on the ab from Original Route. It didn't feel very independent from OR until the last minute when you step out. Overgripped a lot and made a leap for the jug. Found the top bit hard as well.
with Hayden Richards
Climbed with a visiting Yank! Had a look at the holds on the ab from Original Route. It didn't feel very independent from OR until the last minute when you step out. Overgripped a lot and made a leap for the jug. Found the top bit hard as well.
with Hayden Richards
w.pettet-smith 9 Jun, 2013 2nd
with oli
with oli
Hidden 8 Jun, 2013 Lead β
mwatson 5 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
JBO 22 May, 2013 Lead dog Disgusted with myself, grabbed the thread instead of going for the jug! Really annoyed as I'd been saving this for a while but my head just wasn't in it - after just a little run out I was climbing terribly, shaky legs ect. Surprised to find this harder than Supersonic, less sustained but with harder, more committing moves.
Disgusted with myself, grabbed the thread instead of going for the jug! Really annoyed as I'd been saving this for a while but my head just wasn't in it - after just a little run out I was climbing terribly, shaky legs ect. Surprised to find this harder than Supersonic, less sustained but with harder, more committing moves.
Hidden 22 May, 2013 Lead
Dan Arkle ??, 2013 -
Howard Lawledge ?Jul, 2012 Lead
with Mark Rooms
with Mark Rooms
Ally Smith 10 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
steve_yo ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with sam ring
with sam ring
Adam Lincoln ??, 2012 Lead O/S
tuftynick 14 Jun, 2011 Lead 1 fall, pulled ropes and led it clean.
with ben winston
1 fall, pulled ropes and led it clean.
with ben winston
alaan 3 Jul, 2010 Lead rpt
Hidden 11 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Cassidy 13 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Will, Duboust
with Will, Duboust
Hidden 18 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 24 Jun, 2008 2nd
Adam Ellwood 24 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
morganator 11 Jun, 2008 Lead rpt
with Graham Cooper
with Graham Cooper
alaan 5 May, 2008 Lead Simply superb! Took a whipper going for the jug, pulled the ropes and went for it again, this time fluffing the top move - went back two days later and lead it clean.
with Matt
Simply superb! Took a whipper going for the jug, pulled the ropes and went for it again, this time fluffing the top move - went back two days later and lead it clean.
with Matt
Hidden 6 Oct, 2007 Lead β
Ram MkiV 6 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with abarro81, alex b
with abarro81, alex b
Alex Mason 9 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S First total ground-up onsight E5! fairly easy to the thread and/or jug. Found the move past the break really hard, so many holds. Very safe i thought, didnt feel any run-outage. Glad to have ticked it x
First total ground-up onsight E5! fairly easy to the thread and/or jug. Found the move past the break really hard, so many holds. Very safe i thought, didnt feel any run-outage. Glad to have ticked it x
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Boy ??, 2006 -
Dave Bond 29 Sep, 2005 Lead β
Hidden 4 Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 -
Tom Briggs 28 May, 2005 Lead O/S Soft touch. F6b+.
with Eric Hildrew
Soft touch. F6b+.
with Eric Hildrew
whispering nic ?Aug, 2001 2nd
with Niall
with Niall
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?May, 2001 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove ?May, 2001 2nd
Hidden 4 Jul, 1999 Lead O/S
sadams 22 Mar, 1998 Lead O/S
with Pete Bukowski
with Pete Bukowski
Roget 6 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
with baccy
with baccy
Pete Wimbush ??, 1995 2nd
with Dave Langrish
with Dave Langrish
Ian Jones ??, 1994 Lead β Desperate and a hard lead. Hard to clip the gear, have to be on top form for this.
with Karen Ghiselli
Desperate and a hard lead. Hard to clip the gear, have to be on top form for this.
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden 28 Jul, 1993 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 15 Apr, 1993 2nd O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Rich Kirby 2 Aug, 1992 Lead O/S E5 for fluttery moves to thread. Lovely wall climbing.
E5 for fluttery moves to thread. Lovely wall climbing.
UKB Shark ??, 1992 Lead Year a guess
Year a guess
Steve Walker ??, 1992 Lead
with stuart muir
with stuart muir
Alan James - UKC and UKH 9 Jul, 1991 Lead
Neil McA 31 Jul, 1990 Lead O/S
with Martin Wilson
with Martin Wilson
Hidden 28 Apr, 1990 Lead O/S
DDDD ??, 1990 Lead O/S
ajtay ??, 1990 -
with Various
with Various
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 2nd
with Roy
with Roy
Billg ??, 1990 Lead chickened out on the onsite and grabbed the sling when trying to clipfrom below. Was gutted to find a jug next to it ! Pulled the ropes and led clean
chickened out on the onsite and grabbed the sling when trying to clipfrom below. Was gutted to find a jug next to it ! Pulled the ropes and led clean
Chris Wright 4 Sep, 1988 Lead O/S
William Robertson ?Sep, 1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
AlexRenshaw 26 Jun, 1988 Lead
with Tim Raffle
with Tim Raffle
keefe 2 Aug, 1986 -
with Johnny Adams
with Johnny Adams
UKB Shark 11 May, 1986 Lead dnf
with Chris
with Chris
Derek Furze ??, 1986 -
Hidden 26 May, 1985 Lead
Mike Owen 9 Mar, 1985 Lead rpt
with Jim Hewson
with Jim Hewson
Mike Owen 28 Mar, 1984 Lead O/S
with Simon King
with Simon King
mitch1960 ??, 1982 Lead
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
Hidden ??, 1980 2nd
paul__in_sheffield ??, 1980 Lead
Al Evans ??, 1976 - Second on first ascent
Second on first ascent
39 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 31
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set