Rockfax Description
The perfect introduction to the E5 grade and on the perfect cliff. Spicy, but safe with a bit of Buoux thrown in. Climb direct from the Original Route start to rejoin the route in its main groove. Climb up and place some wires then follow the thin crack in the arete until it runs out. Climb coolly to the jug (or thread hold?) and regain your composure. Move up the thin wall above (hidden peg on the left) with one final hard move to pass the break and gain the belay on Original Route. © Rockfax

FA. Phil Burke, Nadim Siddiqui, Al Evans 1979

Ticklists: The High Tor Top Ten, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, James' Summer Ticklist.

mrteale 06/Sep Lead dnf

Didn't get very far at all. Got onto the face below the thread and then had a case of MFS (Massive Fanny Syndrome) and didn't commit. Tried to reverse for a rest and punted off. Not enough time for another go today. V. impressive flash by Harry.

harry_lewis 06/Sep Lead β
with Ed Teale
Tom Livingstone 06/Aug 2nd β
Hidden 21/Jul -
ian bryant 07/Jul Lead RP

I've done 8as in fewer attempts! But actually enjoyed the air time!

ian bryant 25/Jun Lead dog

Very hard onsight

Duncan Campbell 03/Jun Lead O/S

Brilliant. Misha gave me some gear beta but I spent more time faffing trying to put the size wire in he suggested before putting in what I thought would go in, so gonna take the onsight! Crux for me was above the break though the initial section out from original route is also tricky (not too bad to thread) nearly missed the hidden peg!

with Misha
ferdia 13/May 2nd
Ged Desforges 07/May Lead O/S

Fairly steady climbing but fiddly gear. Brilliant route.

southern_smit 01/May TR

enjoyed the moves on a top rope

Toby Dunn ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 04/Oct/16 TR β
Adam Long 17/Sep/16 2nd

Blew my go faffing, lowered off. Felt fine on 2nd going straight to thread.

with Char Williams
eel 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with bigdrew
ejected ??/2016 -
James Oswald 15/Aug/15 2nd dog

With 1 rest before the upper crux because I committed to doing it the wrong way... Ace route, though the little pockets are hard to use.

with Malcolm Scott
James Oswald 15/Aug/15 2nd

With 1 rest before the upper crux because I committed to doing it the wrong way... Ace route, though the little pockets are hard to use.

with Malcolm Scott
malx 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Just fantastic

rocksol ??/2015 -
Brannock 28/Sep/14 2nd
Misha 28/Sep/14 Lead

Got it! Tried it about a year ago and took several flyers but was going the wrong (aka hard) way direct to the jug. This time aimed for the thread, up and right from the undercut above the crucial nut. Still hard but the pockets are just about good enough. Clipping the thread from below is hard, better to move up and clip it with a hand in the line of pockets at the thread as there's a decent foothold so it's a semi-resting position. Move left to the jug and breathe, really good rest and same when clipping the hidden peg above. A short pocketed slab tries to lull you into complacency before the final steepening with a tricky balancy 6a move, felt very on/off as only had one foot on - stayed on! A few 5b/c pulls and it's in the bag! Excellent climbing and really pleased to do it reasonably quickly instead of hanging around for ages as usual - on the hard bits it's vicious enough to impel you to move on, just have to read it right as reversing would be hard.

LRob 04/Sep/14 Lead β

Took ages to commit going for thread and found the the top hard. Amazing route.

david morse 31/Aug/14 Lead β

On mark's gear. Not sure I'd have pressed on to the sling without a quickdraw hanging on it!

markalmack 31/Aug/14 Lead RP

Placed a couple of runners on the bulge on the ab. Knocks a grade off like this

Nick Sillem 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull 19/Aug/14 Lead

Amazing, as most People do had a look on ab first then didn't climb it at all like I thought, felt Onsight! So good

with rich howells
dswansonlow 17/May/14 2nd O/S
nathanlee 13/Apr/14 Lead β

Ready to lead when rain arrived yesterday. Harder and scarier than Supersonic!!

with Dom Lee
Ricky Rocks 13/Apr/14 Lead β

Brilliant airy run out to the thread and still a move or two to pull at the top, felt o/s though can't really claim as did Original route first..

dominic lee 12/Apr/14 Lead rpt
harvie ??/2014 Lead O/S
harvie ??/2014 Lead O/S
Misha 22/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Thought I'd give this a go as it's ultimately safe and it's easy to escape up Original Route. Had a look on the ab off Original Route earlier in the day and it seemed ok... Got as far as placing a nut in the last section of the discontinuous crack and promptly fell off going for the undercut. On subsequent goes found a decent rest in the crack with feet jammed in and worked out a way of getting up a little above the undercut but the next few moves to the jug looked nails. Took three more flyers and gave up as was getting tired and it was getting late and escaped up Original Route. Had a go at the sequence on the ab and it was still desperate but it seems there is an easier way out right to the thread. Worth coming back to...

with Ed
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead
mike mo 01/Sep/13 2nd
Apharri 14/Aug/13 Lead RP

Stupidly went off route first time. Tried to go too direct instead of heading rightwards towards thread

with Jim Gayler
Keendan 17/Jun/13 Lead β

Climbed with a visiting Yank! Had a look at the holds on the ab from Original Route. It didn't feel very independent from OR until the last minute when you step out. Overgripped a lot and made a leap for the jug. Found the top bit hard as well.

with Hayden Richards
w.pettet-smith 09/Jun/13 2nd
with oli
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead β
mwatson 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
JBO 22/May/13 Lead dog

Disgusted with myself, grabbed the thread instead of going for the jug! Really annoyed as I'd been saving this for a while but my head just wasn't in it - after just a little run out I was climbing terribly, shaky legs ect. Surprised to find this harder than Supersonic, less sustained but with harder, more committing moves.

Hidden 22/May/13 Lead
Howard Lawledge ?/Jul/12 Lead
with Mark Rooms
Ally Smith 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
steve_yo ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with sam ring
tuftynick 14/Jun/11 Lead

1 fall, pulled ropes and led it clean.

with ben winston
alaan 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Cassidy 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Will, Duboust
willackers 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

5 stars, brilliant!

with Tom Mills
Hidden 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Adam Ellwood 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S
morganator 11/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Graham Cooper
alaan 05/May/08 Lead

Simply superb! Took a whipper going for the jug, pulled the ropes and went for it again, this time fluffing the top move - went back two days later and lead it clean.

with Matt
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead β
Ram MkiV 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with barross, alex b
Alex Mason 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S

First total ground-up onsight E5! fairly easy to the thread and/or jug. Found the move past the break really hard, so many holds. Very safe i thought, didnt feel any run-outage. Glad to have ticked it x

Hidden ??/2007 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Dave Bond 29/Sep/05 Lead β
Hidden ?/Sep/05 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 28/May/05 Lead O/S

Soft touch. F6b+.

with Eric Hildrew
whispering nic ?/Aug/01 2nd
with Niall
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Dad
Dave Musgrove ?/May/01 2nd
with David
Hidden 04/Jul/99 Lead O/S
sadams 22/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Pete Bukowski
Roget 06/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with baccy
Ian Jones ??/1994 Lead β

Desperate and a hard lead. Hard to clip the gear, have to be on top form for this.

with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden 28/Jul/93 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 15/Apr/93 2nd O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Rich Kirby 02/Aug/92 Lead O/S

E5 for fluttery moves to thread. Lovely wall climbing.

ukb & bmc shark ??/1992 Lead

Year a guess

Steve Walker ??/1992 Lead
with stuart muir
Hidden 28/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Seymore Butt ??/1990 -
with Roy
Billg ??/1990 Lead

chickened out on the onsite and grabbed the sling when trying to clipfrom below. Was gutted to find a jug next to it ! Pulled the ropes and led clean

Chris Wright 04/Sep/88 Lead O/S
William Robertson ?/Sep/88 Lead O/S
with Emily
AlexRenshaw 26/Jun/88 Lead
with Tim Raffle
keefe 02/Aug/86 -
with Johnny Adams
ukb & bmc shark 11/May/86 Lead dnf
with Chris
Derek Furze ??/1986 -
Hidden 26/May/85 Lead
Mike Owen 09/Mar/85 Lead rpt
with Jim Hewson
Hidden ?/Jun/84 Lead
Mike Owen 28/Mar/84 Lead O/S
with Simon King
mitch1960 ??/1982 Lead
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
Hidden ??/1980 2nd
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Al Evans ??/1976 -

Second on first ascent

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High 6b
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