Rockfax Description
10m. Not unexpectedly, the right-hand crack is thuggish. Fortunately it is well-protected and the difficulties are soon over - a two-move wonder. Thought by many to be a harder proposition than Brown's but really it isn't! © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1950s 1955

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade.

James Oakes 24/Sep Lead rpt
deacondeacon 28/Aug Lead

Took two goes. Another Ramshaw bruiser.

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 28/Aug Lead G/U

2nd go. Trust that fist jam!

with Deacon
shaunhumphreys 01/Jul Lead O/S
with Tom A
Teappleby 01/Jul Lead β

On shaun's gear.

with Felicity Freeman, Olga Kondrashova, Ben Kelsey, Fran Hammond, Shaun Humphreys, Alex McCann, Pete Briggs
Hidden 01/Jun 2nd
Andrew Abraham 18/Apr Lead rpt
Mike W 03/Apr Lead β
Andrew Abraham 03/Apr 2nd dog
MichaelGallimore 25/Sep/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead RP
ashtond6 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/16 2nd
Cake 30/May/16 Lead β

On Matt's gear mainly. Gruesome

with Matt
phil64 ??/2016 Lead
with various
FlavioL1989 10/Oct/15 Lead G/U
John Higgs 04/Jul/15 Solo rpt
Hidden 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S
John Higgs 06/Jun/15 Solo O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 Lead O/S
with noaks
James Oakes 26/May/15 2nd O/S
Jake Young 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Pretty happy with this, quite good.

with Huw
Hidden 19/Apr/15 2nd
PeteWilson 07/Apr/15 2nd

hard! fell off this one, really reachy

with John P, Andi T
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 10/Nov/14 Lead
Climbster 27/Jul/14 Lead G/U

2nd go. Just needed a little more ggrrrr to get the jams in :)

with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Got it 2nd go, on my 1st go i trapped a nerve in my hand on a pebble while jamming, after the feeling returned to my fingers i got it next try.

with Vic, Matt
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Alex Winter 20/Jul/14 Lead rpt

4 on Staffordshire nose.

with Nick
Nick Russell 20/Jul/14 2nd

4/31. Felt harder than last time.

dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/14 Lead RP
MichaelGallimore 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with Miles
soph 24/Apr/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Andrew Abraham 08/Dec/13 2nd dog

Mint route, tough though

monsteratt 08/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Not the most inspiring of lines to look at, but a few great moves. Heel hooking with fist jams and unusual combination

with Nick Whimster, Andrew Abraham
Mr. K 03/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Back of the crack in the small niche was damp and I couldn't get the jam to stick. I'll be back!

with Adam Radcliff
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
tgeh 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S

not too bad for hvs bomber jams the whole way and a knee bar

with imogene, dan geh
Brown 22/Sep/12 2nd

Number Five of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose15.07.12

with Andy R
Dan Geh 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

All a bit brutal, classic Whillans! This one should stay a HVS sandbag in my opinion, makes it more fun!

with Neil Mackie
Thinker01 26/Jul/12 2nd RP

Only took two people and 20 minutes to get Ralph's cam out of the crack

with Ralph Wilkinson
RFWilkie 26/Jul/12 Lead dog


Brown 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Lilifa
Maken 10/Jun/12 2nd

Might of had a rest/haul on the super wet greasy middle section

tallsop 10/Jun/12 -

1 fall, soaking wet, mingin, brutal and fuckin brilliant! Cant wait to get on Browns effort next time!

with Chris
Nick Russell 27/May/12 Lead RP

Hard but over quickly and well protected, stiff HVS. Had to retreat after the first few attempts at the crux to tape up

Souljah 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Wham jam, thank you ma'am!

with Andi, Dave and SAS Bob!
mark20 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S


Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
cat22 06/Nov/11 2nd
with Mike
Graeme Hammond 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S

quality route well worth 2 stars even if it is all over a bit too soon. Found very straight forward perfect jams and a lay back exit. Those with out some oomph and jamming skills probably find it much harder though.

with Jim
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Dave Mason 18/Oct/11 2nd dnf
with Adam Gill, Trev Tatler
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Cragrat Rich 26/Jul/11 Solo O/S

Pretty straightforward jamming fest. Shortlived, I used jams in the back of the crack and some good holds arrived

JRae 23/Jul/11 Lead
with A Saul
thomasadixon 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Takes a long reach but isn't too bad, probs fair at HVS.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 23/Jul/11 Lead dog

Soooo hard but possibly 'cause I'm short.. Had to pop for a jam!

with Tom
Reaver2k 23/Jul/11 2nd
with JRae
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
nicolat ?/May/11 Lead dog
jmjw 25/Apr/11 Lead β
with Dan P
bigie bob 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
odox 27/Jun/10 2nd dnf

Bloody nails!

andybirtwistle 27/Jun/10 Lead
Boy 17/Apr/10 -
with Adam , Nige Kershaw
John Southworth 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 05/Apr/09 Lead

Cold and a bit green. Up and down 1st moves to place runners, then did upper section quickly before hands froze and arms expired

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 20/Mar/09 -
switch ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Nickie
snakebite 24/Sep/08 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with New Mills Duncan
Pete Graham 31/May/08 2nd
with Luke Porter
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd
Rich Kirby 03/May/08 2nd
with Ash
Hidden 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
mark s 29/Sep/07 Lead
with andi t
simoncov 08/Sep/07 TR dog
with Simon Chetwynd
Jon Read 03/Sep/07 Solo O/S
nige 20/Aug/07 Lead
with mark hounslea
Lawrence Eccles ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with A. Crook
Steve Banham 14/Mar/07 Lead dog

Hard, with brutal jamming, and sloping. Undergaded, but worthwile. Not seconded

with Phil R
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
kato'sdad 05/Mar/06 Lead
RobSimmo 05/Mar/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead
mark s ??/2005 -
ArnaudG ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Dunc
sadams 02/May/04 Lead dnf
with Tom Briggs
Strong Steve 25/Apr/04 Lead G/U
ASchwirtz 27/Jul/03 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
goi.ashmore 18/Jun/02 Lead RP
with Duncan Irving
Gus ??/2002 Lead
Roget 10/May/01 Solo rpt
Roget 03/May/01 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 16/May/98 Lead O/S
with Dave Hassall
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
Rob Seymour 24/Feb/85 Lead O/S
with Dave Bennett, Stu Mackay
Ken Taylor 15/Jun/82 TR
clanger ??/1972 -
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Votes cast 31
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High 5a
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Votes cast 30
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set