Rockfax Description
Climb a crack in the arete of the buttress pulling left onto the upper face and following a thin crack directly to the top. Superb climbing, as good as anything of its grade in the Peak. © Rockfax
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Castle Naze , Adele & Dave , Every Climb at Castle Naze , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , mega local corkers for me n sam, S-HVS , 2024
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| mickyv33 | 16 Jun |
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βeta: For the safety conscious - I managed to find multiple small nuts in the rounded seam toward the top above the cam placement making it feel pretty safe. Great climb | ||
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Show beta
βeta: For the safety conscious - I managed to find multiple small nuts in the rounded seam toward the top above the cam placement making it feel pretty safe. Great climb |
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| mountainremedy | 12 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: Big cam not needed for the top break, there’s a really good yellow totem placement (small silver dragon would work). For a VS leader the mid section does feel bold, committing insecure moves above gear. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Big cam not needed for the top break, there’s a really good yellow totem placement (small silver dragon would work). For a VS leader the mid section does feel bold, committing insecure moves above gear. |
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| Ben12345 | 7 Jan, 2024 |
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βeta: Good first route of the day, not really to difficult for the grade but gave some nice face climbing to towards the end. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good first route of the day, not really to difficult for the grade but gave some nice face climbing to towards the end. |
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| Iain Thow | 19 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: Yes, best route here, a bit of everything, just enjoy the delicate top without faffing about for the not very good pro. | ||
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βeta: Yes, best route here, a bit of everything, just enjoy the delicate top without faffing about for the not very good pro. |
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| shaun walby | 19 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Superb VS climbing...might not be technically top end 4c for any one move, but it gets harder as you climb with the crux balance move right at the top (well protected big & small cams). Its where you are when this one challenges you that made it feel solid upper end VS4c for me. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Superb VS climbing...might not be technically top end 4c for any one move, but it gets harder as you climb with the crux balance move right at the top (well protected big & small cams). Its where you are when this one challenges you that made it feel solid upper end VS4c for me. |
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| Si dH | 9 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don't need any large gear. Get a bomber nut at the start of the thin crack then jus go, the quality of the nut placements near the top isn't worth the effort of placing them. Proper VS, tricky moves all the way once you leave the wide crack and at least a couple that I felt were solid 4c. Lovely route. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Don't need any large gear. Get a bomber nut at the start of the thin crack then jus go, the quality of the nut placements near the top isn't worth the effort of placing them. Proper VS, tricky moves all the way once you leave the wide crack and at least a couple that I felt were solid 4c. Lovely route. |
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| leon | 5 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: i agree, top quality route. interesting throughout. gear's fine. | βeta? | |
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βeta: i agree, top quality route. interesting throughout. gear's fine. |
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| Whealiebob | 24 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I agree - great climb. Constant, but not too difficult 4b/c climbing that gets better the further up you go. Rivals any VS on grit for quality. (Except The File perhaps...) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I agree - great climb. Constant, but not too difficult 4b/c climbing that gets better the further up you go. Rivals any VS on grit for quality. (Except The File perhaps...) |
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| Crammy | 22 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Great climb. Don't agree it's "high in the grade" as guide book now says. Well protected all the way with barely 4c moves. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great climb. Don't agree it's "high in the grade" as guide book now says. Well protected all the way with barely 4c moves. |
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| Monk | 8 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: I wouldn't call the moves bold, there is perfect protection all the way. An excellent route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I wouldn't call the moves bold, there is perfect protection all the way. An excellent route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Castle Naze
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Route 1
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dovestone Tor)