Rockfax Description
10m. A mini-classic, intense and varied, packing a lot of climbing into a short distance. Gain the undercut flake with difficulty and follow it to its end where scary friction and pebble moves lead leftwards up a ramp to easy ground. Best climbed when the boggy area below the route is in prime condition, making falling off even less desirable (but safer) than normal. © Rockfax

FA. Andrew Woodward 1974

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

themattyshep 26/Aug/17 Lead dnf
Mike W 05/Apr/17 2nd β
Andrew Abraham 05/Apr/17 Lead rpt
manwithacam 02/Apr/17 Lead

Fell off first time, after making the steps left onto the ramp and just contemplating the top out. Think I just lost my balance and fell backwards. Quite a fall. Got back on and topped it out. Pretty scary, pretty hard, pretty good!

with Mark Grist
The Grist 02/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
James Oakes 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Scary towards the top. Felt like E4.

jimlear ??/2017 Lead β
with Jay
Jack2222 ??/2017 Lead
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
Tom.Priestley 22/May/16 Solo rpt

Did the boulder start second go this time then managed to commit to the pebbles on the upper part which was climbed O/S. Thought it was going to be one hard move, it wasn't. Scary, and felt like I perhaps should have had a rope.

with Hinkley Honkley, tunnah, Scott Quinn
Hugobristol 17/Mar/16 Lead G/U

Got so scared on this one. Bouldered the start then went for the lead. The slab difficulties were much more long lasting than i had hoped- probably due to me overgripping and not trusting smears- still you wouldnt want to drop the last move..

with Thom
Hidden 17/Mar/16 2nd
deacondeacon 27/Feb/16 Lead O/S

On sighted it once I'd Sussed getting off the floor :) Took an eternity on this as the top out was wet and green. Defo go and check the finishing holds first if you're getting on this.

Hidden ??/2016 -
Sam Cooper 15/Apr/15 Sent O/S
with Matt b
Rob Gillespie 10/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Poor effort! Fell trying to top out to early should of carried on further along the ramp. I'll be back when it's colder I think.

td72 09/Mar/15 Solo RP

Top roped a couple of times, cleaned it up then got it on solo

thomas108 ??/2015 Lead G/U
Tom.Priestley 20/Sep/14 Sent dnf

Got up to the pebbly step right and came down as it was a bit high. Was going to come back with a rope but midges scared us off.

Scott Quinn 20/Sep/14 Sent dnf

V2 to the pebble rock over above the flake, we both looked at topping out but decided we wanted to rope! fucking midges

Andrew Abraham 27/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Sam Riley, Ceara
Will Murphy 12/Jun/14 Solo RP
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
AndrewJamesCherry 01/Mar/14 Lead

Fantastic varied climbing! Lead after bouldering out the crux start.

Samuel Wainwright 24/Feb/13 Lead dog
ianstevens 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
phillipwright ?/Jan/13 Lead
dom_joyce265 ?/Jan/13 2nd O/S
phillipwright ??/2013 Lead RP

the pebble.

Ky ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Dave H
Matt Cooke 01/Apr/12 Lead RP

Had climbed to the bottom of the flake previously when bouldering in the cave at the bottom

with Rosh
jacobjacob 25/Feb/12 Solo rpt

above some pads.

Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
maddy.c ??/2012 -
James82 02/Oct/11 Sent x
robman 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
fennerz 08/May/11 Sent O/S

Amazing! Must admit i was shaking a bit even before i committed to the slab :P

with Sean Grady
grady ?/May/11 Solo O/S

above a couple of small pads

Hidden 26/Mar/11 Solo dnf
Hidden 19/Jan/11 Solo dnf
Jacob Bloodworth ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
infected mushroom ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
phil64 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S


with tim hunter
will randall ?/Aug/10 TR O/S
with sarah
Hidden 06/Jul/10 TR
DorsetGareth 04/Jul/10 2nd RP

Really sketchy - well done Pip!

with Pip
jacobjacob 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
i_a_coops ?/Jun/10 Lead β
with Jacob
willoates 30/Jan/10 Lead dnf

Fell 1st time on the rock over... second time fell from the last move over the top, ended up about a 1 meter off the floor thanks to lawrences quick feet... cheers loz

with lawrence
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
kingholmesy ??/2010 Solo O/S
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Pete Graham 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
chris sm 20/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Hmmm..... just bottled it really.

with Pippa Froggatt
mic_b 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with James Blake
quiffhanger 26/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
DannyK 04/Apr/09 TR O/S
with pep
nige 20/Feb/09 Lead
with john reti
northy1983 ?/Feb/09 Solo RP
Tobes ?/Feb/09 Lead dnf

couldn't make the left move onto pebbles, well tried but ended up in the cave. gears good, ran out of time to finish....will be back

with Alex
Luke Brooks 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Wild
Hidden 14/Sep/08 2nd β
will9911 14/Sep/08 Lead RP

blew the onsight after my foot popped off a pebble unexpectedly as i was placing a tiny cam furthur up the flake so a bit of a shock to fall and swing into the cave about a foot from the floor, luckily the nuts were bomber!.sketchy moves furthur up tho on some dodgy cams in the top of the flake , my first E3!!

with chris
Mr Wild 10/May/08 Lead dnf

couldn't make the step left onto the pepple, i think its a winter route lol

with olly
Hidden 25/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
Hidden 07/May/07 TR β
gregoritos ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 28/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with dave evans
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
philhilo ??/2007 Lead O/S

Remember spending a long time fruitlessly looking for some more holds at the top!

dan gibson 18/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Pythonist 07/Aug/06 Lead dnf

Failed to step out onto the upper scoop... again!

with Dave
dannyboy83 29/Jul/06 Lead O/S
feilx 29/Jul/06 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 05/Mar/06 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 28/Jan/06 2nd rpt
with Mike Garton
Hidden 21/Jan/06 Solo O/S
Andrew Barker ?/Oct/05 Lead

Tried earlierin 2005, downclimbed from last gear as I didn't trust the footholds with a hole in my shoe!

with Jack Symmons
Ropeboy 20/Feb/05 Lead
mark s ??/2005 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
mbutton ?/Sep/04 Lead β
with Gus Hudgens
DubyaJamesDubya 25/Jun/03 Lead O/S

Nice contrast between the upper and lower sections of the route.

with Nik Howard
Hidden ?/May/03 Lead dnf
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Viv
sadams ?/Apr/01 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
petekeron ??/2001 TR RP
Dave Bond ??/2001 Lead O/S
with rob seward
Gus 19/Oct/00 Lead O/S
Strong Steve 10/Jun/00 Lead O/S
philhilo ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
with Pom
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/2000 -
Hidden 05/Jun/99 Lead
tuftynick ??/1999 Lead
with ciaran troup
Hidden 08/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/98 Solo O/S
Rob Kinsey ??/1998 -
AlexRenshaw 01/Jun/97 Lead
richsmithinbristol 03/May/97 Lead O/S

Best grit experience so far! Amazing pebbles and smears on top traverse.

switch ??/1997 Lead

1 fall

ukb & bmc shark 10/May/96 Lead O/S
with Pete Cole
WB ?/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with Stu
DavidBarraclough ??/1996 Lead O/S
robtrooper ??/1996 -
nai ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/94 Lead O/S
Chris Reid ?/May/93 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
Mark Kemball 15/Apr/93 Lead
with Bill Kemball
ste_d 12/Apr/93 Solo O/S
Sean Kelly ?/Apr/93 Lead dnf

Jumped off after bouldering out the start. No gear on this!

with Pete Carmichael
Carl Hamer ??/1993 TR dog
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/92 Lead
andrew300169 05/Jul/92 Lead dnf
with Tim
Hidden 27/May/92 TR
samt 13/Oct/91 TR

Why so much top ropping!!?

adi bryant 02/Oct/91 Lead RP
with Tim
Hidden 08/May/91 2nd
Rich Kirby 06/May/91 Lead
with Andy Mackay
Duncan I ?/May/91 2nd
Roget 27/Apr/91 Lead G/U

Fell off on previous attempt

with jon
channinga ??/1991 -
Billg ?/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Hidden 27/May/90 2nd
SB_NWUK_99 ??/1990 2nd β

Seconded in the early 1990s.

Eduardo Martinez ??/1990 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 14/May/89 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 11/Mar/89 Lead O/S
with Ken Padgett
Hidden 23/Jun/88 TR
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
Tom V ??/1986 TR
AlexRenshaw 03/Nov/85 Lead
with Sean Myles
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1983 Lead O/S
with FMC
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Andy Stephenson ??/1982 TR O/S
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 63
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set