Rockfax Description
Judge, jury and harsh taskmaster. A magnificent climb; the best in the valley. From the toe of the buttress, trend up and left following good finger holds and a line of threads. Swing down and left to access a steep groove and sprint up this to an old peg at its top. Swing left and, before gravity takes over, layback up into the welcome shade of the capping yew tree. © Rockfax

FA. Jack Street, Geoff Birtles (one rest) 1969

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

markalmack 24/Sep/16 2nd rpt
WB 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

really good route. Pleased to onsight it as there was no chalk and route finding was really tough.

with Deacon
deacondeacon 17/Jul/16 Lead β

Flashed it with Theos gear in and lots of beta. Just. Amazing route on amazing rock.

Hidden 19/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 19/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Hard but very good.

with Michael Porter, Matthew Porter
bigdrew 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Need to stop getting on routes in the sun. Christ my feet hurt and it felt hard. Removed 3 stuck wires and some dandelions.

with Si
Chriswallis2 03/May/16 Lead rpt
with Mike W
Mike W 03/May/16 Lead O/S
manwithacam 17/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Went too high I think, from the good ledge. Couldnt see an obvious way by keeping low, so followed couple of decent holds up, hoping for something good to materialise. It didnt, I hung on desperately until falling, took about 8m fall onto nut which I couldnt remove.

with Alan
James Thacker ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 Lead
Kipper-Phil Smith 30/Aug/15 Lead
with Shaun
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd dog
jimbonfire 30/May/15 -
spidey 30/May/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant! had to fight a bit, almost came off when the foot slipped near the peg!!

benw681 ?/Sep/14 -

Very brilliant, cruised the traverse but tactical error coming off into the groove and peg , got pumped and lost psyche and lowered/fell onto peg. Still a long way to go from there but best climb in Peak for me so far.

david morse 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Fell off this two years ago but went fine today. I did get a bit pumped in the top groove though. Outstanding route

with KT
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead
Adam Long 03/Aug/14 Lead
with Ben Bransby
Duncan Campbell 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Tricky! A lot of good handholds but poor feet a lot of the time on the hard sections. Very well protected for the most part though and you get really good rests in between the hard sections. Have wanted to do this for a while, it didn't disappoint!

with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 05/Jul/14 2nd
Chriswallis2 29/Jun/14 Lead RP

Fell off first crux a few weeks ago and lowered off there from the thread. Felt good this time despite the rain. Great route, worth the hype.

with Anna
belay bunny turned bad 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Amazing :-)

with al
Al Doig 17/May/14 2nd
with Bex
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
masa-alpin 31/Aug/13 Lead dog

Super hard - a hard crux (6b?) followed by very sustained 5c. Fell off at the crux, when a tiny hold broken off. After getting up again and somehow managed the crux this time, I needed a rest at the peg. Utterly pumped. Hardest route for me to day among those I attempted onsight and topped out.

with Aidan M, Rob G
robgixer 31/Aug/13 2nd
markalmack 27/May/13 Lead O/S
Si dH 25/May/13 Lead dog

So so hard. Fell off passing the peg to reach the top, not even on a very hard move. Was on the route about 2.5 hours. Gutted.

with Andy
captain ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Awesome!One of the best.Blind moves with hidden holds. Sustained all the way.

Dizz 22/Jul/12 2nd dog

Fell off the traverse - much prussicing ... next time!

with Hugh T
mwatson 16/Jul/12 Lead O/S

surprisingly good, went wrong way at first

Jake Young 12/Jul/12 2nd dog

next time, top notch route though with cool moves.

with Mike
david morse 13/May/12 Lead dog

Missed the good bit by the peg. Nails hard to read this route! Classsssic.

with todd
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Bob ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 Lead
with Tim Hill
Ally Smith 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead
hamish2016 ?/May/11 Lead

Great route but fell on last few metres- tried to go straight up instead of left.

with Chris Clarke
Dizz 27/Apr/11 2nd dog
with David B
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Brown 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Henry
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
rikbattye ??/2011 -
switch 05/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with James
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Alex Mason 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

The best route i have ever done, amazing from start to finish even the easy moves provide interest :D

with Tom Martin
switch 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S
philhilo 28/Aug/08 2nd

Nails as I remember/

Luke Brooks 14/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Matt Dalby
willackers 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S

What a quality route.

with Tom Mills
fizzy_elephant 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S

seemed to take quite a while over it but got there in the end!

with Lloyd Betsworth
Hidden 02/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
Ram MkiV 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Good gear, never desperate, very enjoyable. semi-cruised.

with Alex Mason
Boy ??/2006 -
mark s ??/2006 Lead O/S
with andi t
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2003 Lead O/S
with ben winston
Hidden 21/Sep/02 Lead dog
skygodley 27/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with SarahM
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Martin Peters, Ian Smith
Marti999 ?/Jun/00 Lead β
with lorna
goi.ashmore 14/May/00 Lead O/S

Unquestionably superb. In a heatwave!

with Iain Fisher
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
philhilo ??/2000 -
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 -
ste_d 17/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 01/Jun/97 Lead O/S
phardman ??/1997 -
Dave Douglas 04/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Ed Morgan
Hidden 13/Jul/96 Lead
andy_pemberton 12/May/96 Lead


with Noel
Hidden 29/Jun/95 Lead rpt
Ian Jones ??/1995 Lead O/S

Very good.

with Karen Ghiselli
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
steve taylor ??/1995 -
keefe ??/1995 -
crossleysm ??/1995 Lead
Cowflinger ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 10/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/94 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/94 2nd
ukb shark ??/1994 Lead
Hidden 13/Jun/93 Lead
Rich Kirby 14/Aug/92 2nd O/S
Roget 28/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with jon
g1m147 21/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with John Farry
Hidden 29/Jun/91 Lead
Bruce Kerr 17/Mar/90 Lead
keefe ??/1990 -
Dave Musgrove 09/Aug/89 Lead O/S

Best climb on limestone this year!

with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Aug/89 2nd
with Dad
Stoney Boy 06/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
ukb shark 22/Jul/89 Lead
with Stu Bolton
Hidden ?/Jul/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/89 Lead
Johnny Baker ??/1989 -
with Derek Toulalan
Hidden 01/Oct/88 Lead
Hidden 25/Jul/87 2nd
John Marsland 11/Jul/87 2nd
with Dave Soles
Eduardo Martinez 11/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/87 2nd
Billg ??/1987 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 21/Sep/86 2nd
sadams 31/Aug/86 Lead
with Kevin Edwards
Hidden 27/Jul/86 Lead dog
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/85 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/85 Lead
TonyF 01/May/85 Lead
with Tony Cox
andy gittins ??/1985 -
andybirtwistle 07/Jul/84 2nd
with Mike Arnold
charlesmfrench 12/Apr/84 2nd RP

Led clean 21-8-1984

timbanton ??/1984 -
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
Ivan Machin 26/Jul/82 -
with Jon Mellor
Steve Lewis 03/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson
Mike Owen 16/May/82 -
with Phil Ralph
duncan ?/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/81 Lead G/U
Mark Kemball 11/Apr/81 2nd
with Bill McKee
Andy Edgar ??/1981 Lead O/S

Excellent route, hard to avoid putting your toe on the top peg!

Nevil ?/Jul/80 -
with Pat
redjerry ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
with Roy Williamson
Hidden 06/Apr/80 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
with Colin Binks
petemeads ?/Aug/78 Lead O/S

An early free ascent - Livesey had claimed the first some time before. Exquisite, meandering route with pockets & threads, strenuous around the crux. Climbed with no information as nobody I knew had done it, probably because of its reputation at the time.

with Steve Taylor
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 35
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set