40m.

Rockfax Description
Judge, jury and harsh taskmaster. A magnificent climb; the best in the valley. From the toe of the buttress, trend up and left following good finger holds and a line of threads. Swing down and left to access a steep groove and sprint up this to an old peg at its top. Swing left and, before gravity takes over, layback up into the welcome shade of the capping yew tree. © Rockfax

FA. Jack Street, Geoff Birtles (one rest) 1969

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Definitive *** Peak Lime, On Peak Rock

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UserDateNotes
steveb2006 10 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Done a few times in past, last being in 2002 but had a look last weekend (4/5/06) and noticed the 'crucial' thread / tat in the middle of the traverse is missing. The rock has actually broken so someone could have had quite a swing if came off on the traverse. I used to rely on just clipping the tat - did get a rock 2 in and a micro - these are lower than the tat was, but doesnt alter grade (though I did fail on rest of route this time - too pumped). Would be interested to know when the thread tat/thread was broken and if anyone had a surprising plummet. Note there are still a couple of threads on bit shared with Nancy Whiskey i.e. before traverse.
 
Show beta
βeta: Done a few times in past, last being in 2002 but had a look last weekend (4/5/06) and noticed the 'crucial' thread / tat in the middle of the traverse is missing. The rock has actually broken so someone could have had quite a swing if came off on the traverse. I used to rely on just clipping the tat - did get a rock 2 in and a micro - these are lower than the tat was, but doesnt alter grade (though I did fail on rest of route this time - too pumped). Would be interested to know when the thread tat/thread was broken and if anyone had a surprising plummet. Note there are still a couple of threads on bit shared with Nancy Whiskey i.e. before traverse.
Davros the Psyched 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Flippin brilliant route. Beautiful and complex moves thankfully broken into bite-size chunks by good rests and bomber gear. As of July '05 the threads were in a faded but pretty solid state.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Flippin brilliant route. Beautiful and complex moves thankfully broken into bite-size chunks by good rests and bomber gear. As of July '05 the threads were in a faded but pretty solid state.
Katya 19 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A contender for the best E3 in the Peak.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A contender for the best E3 in the Peak.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
nathanlee 5 Jun Lead O/S Superb... hard and tricky to read
Superb... hard and tricky to read
Flavio 1 Jun Lead O/S Looks blank and rubbish from below but has amazing gear and climbs really really well! Felt almost 6a.
Looks blank and rubbish from below but has amazing gear and climbs really really well! Felt almost 6a.
Matt Harle 1 Jun Lead O/S Sun soaked struggle street.
with MJHarle
Sun soaked struggle street.
with MJHarle
MJHarle 1 Jun 2nd
JendeHoxar 1 Jun 2nd dog
with Flavio
with Flavio
Dave Almond 4 May Lead dog One to come back for
with Liam Gaston
One to come back for
with Liam Gaston
Hidden 21 Apr Lead O/S
dac0389 20 Apr Lead β
with benw681
with benw681
benw681 20 Apr Lead Finally, stunning conditions and so good to go at this fresh for a change. Such a journey. The top succumbed to maximum force
with Dan
Finally, stunning conditions and so good to go at this fresh for a change. Such a journey. The top succumbed to maximum force
with Dan
fatboyslimfast ?? -
mrblack ?? -
debsb 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with morganator, Nicky Parkin, Tom Wild
with morganator, Nicky Parkin, Tom Wild
morganator 25 Aug, 2018 2nd rpt So long since I did it I can hardly remember it. Great climb
So long since I did it I can hardly remember it. Great climb
Mihkel 21 Aug, 2018 2nd dog A good lead by Will. What a pitch! Some hard, blind moves, decent rests, good gear. I came off on second twice (down climbing from some high gear before the first traverse, and when I missed the finger jug by the peg towards the end), did the moves clean on second go.
A good lead by Will. What a pitch! Some hard, blind moves, decent rests, good gear. I came off on second twice (down climbing from some high gear before the first traverse, and when I missed the finger jug by the peg towards the end), did the moves clean on second go.
steve_yo 22 Jul, 2018 2nd
with sam ring
with sam ring
James Oswald 23 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Ace route. Fell off on one of the cruxes next to the peg.
with Alan saul
Ace route. Fell off on one of the cruxes next to the peg.
with Alan saul
phil64 5 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Great route
with DaveTurnbull
Great route
with DaveTurnbull
Dave Turnbull, BMC 5 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Phil Dowthwaite
with Phil Dowthwaite
JBO 4 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Dale Comley 28 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 28 May, 2018 2nd β
Somerset swede basher 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Utterly brilliant, one of the best at the grade I've done, hard with no chalk to follow, very blind.
with Adam
Utterly brilliant, one of the best at the grade I've done, hard with no chalk to follow, very blind.
with Adam
Haydn Jones 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Possibly the best E3 I've ever done
Possibly the best E3 I've ever done
Hidden 23 May, 2017 2nd O/S
petegunn 12 Apr, 2017 Lead
Hidden 12 Apr, 2017 2nd
Bristoldave 2 Apr, 2017 Lead
with Luke
with Luke
markalmack 24 Sep, 2016 2nd rpt
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
WB 24 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 17 Jul, 2016 Lead β Flashed it with Theos gear in and lots of beta. Just. Amazing route on amazing rock.
Flashed it with Theos gear in and lots of beta. Just. Amazing route on amazing rock.
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 17 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S really good route. Pleased to onsight it as there was no chalk and route finding was really tough.
really good route. Pleased to onsight it as there was no chalk and route finding was really tough.
Martin Bagshaw 19 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S Hard but very good.
with Michael Porter, Matthew Porter
Hard but very good.
with Michael Porter, Matthew Porter
Dohnny_Jawes 19 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
bigdrew 5 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Need to stop getting on routes in the sun. Christ my feet hurt and it felt hard. Removed 3 stuck wires and some dandelions.
with Si dH
Need to stop getting on routes in the sun. Christ my feet hurt and it felt hard. Removed 3 stuck wires and some dandelions.
with Si dH
Chriswallis2 3 May, 2016 Lead rpt
with Mike W
with Mike W
Mike W 3 May, 2016 Lead O/S
manwithacam 17 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf Went too high I think, from the good ledge. Couldnt see an obvious way by keeping low, so followed couple of decent holds up, hoping for something good to materialise. It didnt, I hung on desperately until falling, took about 8m fall onto nut which I couldnt remove.
with Alan
Went too high I think, from the good ledge. Couldnt see an obvious way by keeping low, so followed couple of decent holds up, hoping for something good to materialise. It didnt, I hung on desperately until falling, took about 8m fall onto nut which I couldnt remove.
with Alan
Hidden ??, 2016 Lead
James Thacker ??, 2016 -
Kipper-Phil Smith 30 Aug, 2015 Lead
with Shaun
with Shaun
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 2nd dog
spidey 30 May, 2015 Lead O/S Brilliant! had to fight a bit, almost came off when the foot slipped near the peg!!
Brilliant! had to fight a bit, almost came off when the foot slipped near the peg!!
jimbonfire 30 May, 2015 -
benw681 ?Sep, 2014 - Very brilliant, cruised the traverse but tactical error coming off into the groove and peg , got pumped and lost psyche and lowered/fell onto peg. Still a long way to go from there but best climb in Peak for me so far.
Very brilliant, cruised the traverse but tactical error coming off into the groove and peg , got pumped and lost psyche and lowered/fell onto peg. Still a long way to go from there but best climb in Peak for me so far.
david morse 24 Aug, 2014 Lead rpt Fell off this two years ago but went fine today. I did get a bit pumped in the top groove though. Outstanding route
with KT
Fell off this two years ago but went fine today. I did get a bit pumped in the top groove though. Outstanding route
with KT
Hidden 16 Aug, 2014 Lead
Adam Long 3 Aug, 2014 Lead
with Ben Bransby
with Ben Bransby
Duncan Campbell 5 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Tricky! A lot of good handholds but poor feet a lot of the time on the hard sections. Very well protected for the most part though and you get really good rests in between the hard sections. Have wanted to do this for a while, it didn't disappoint!
Tricky! A lot of good handholds but poor feet a lot of the time on the hard sections. Very well protected for the most part though and you get really good rests in between the hard sections. Have wanted to do this for a while, it didn't disappoint!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 5 Jul, 2014 2nd
Chriswallis2 29 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Fell off first crux a few weeks ago and lowered off there from the thread. Felt good this time despite the rain. Great route, worth the hype.
with annaEM
Fell off first crux a few weeks ago and lowered off there from the thread. Felt good this time despite the rain. Great route, worth the hype.
with annaEM
belay bunny turned bad 17 May, 2014 Lead O/S Amazing :-)
with Al Doig
Amazing :-)
with Al Doig
Hidden 17 May, 2014 2nd
Dan-Cheetham ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
robgixer 31 Aug, 2013 2nd
masa-alpin 31 Aug, 2013 Lead dog Super hard - a hard crux (6b?) followed by very sustained 5c. Fell off at the crux, when a tiny hold broken off. After getting up again and somehow managed the crux this time, I needed a rest at the peg. Utterly pumped. Hardest route for me to day among those I attempted onsight and topped out.
with Aidan M, robgixer
Super hard - a hard crux (6b?) followed by very sustained 5c. Fell off at the crux, when a tiny hold broken off. After getting up again and somehow managed the crux this time, I needed a rest at the peg. Utterly pumped. Hardest route for me to day among those I attempted onsight and topped out.
with Aidan M, robgixer
markalmack 27 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with ctodd
with ctodd
Si dH 25 May, 2013 Lead dog So so hard. Fell off passing the peg to reach the top, not even on a very hard move. Was on the route about 2.5 hours. Gutted.
with Andy
So so hard. Fell off passing the peg to reach the top, not even on a very hard move. Was on the route about 2.5 hours. Gutted.
with Andy
ejected ??, 2013 Lead O/S
captain ??, 2013 -
Mike_Hayes 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Awesome!One of the best.Blind moves with hidden holds. Sustained all the way.
Awesome!One of the best.Blind moves with hidden holds. Sustained all the way.
Dizz 22 Jul, 2012 2nd dog Fell off the traverse - much prussicing ... next time!
with Hugh T
Fell off the traverse - much prussicing ... next time!
with Hugh T
mwatson 16 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S surprisingly good, went wrong way at first
surprisingly good, went wrong way at first
Jake Young 12 Jul, 2012 2nd dog next time, top notch route though with cool moves.
with mwatson
next time, top notch route though with cool moves.
with mwatson
david morse 13 May, 2012 Lead dog Missed the good bit by the peg. Nails hard to read this route! Classsssic.
with ctodd
Missed the good bit by the peg. Nails hard to read this route! Classsssic.
with ctodd
Hidden 24 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Bob ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2012 Lead
with Tim Hill
with Tim Hill
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Hidden 1 Oct, 2011 Lead
Ally Smith 1 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with edinbed
with edinbed
hamish2016 ?May, 2011 Lead Great route but fell on last few metres- tried to go straight up instead of left.
with Chris Clarke
Great route but fell on last few metres- tried to go straight up instead of left.
with Chris Clarke
Dizz 27 Apr, 2011 2nd dog
Hidden 22 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Brown 9 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Henry
with Henry
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Si Witcher 5 Sep, 2010 2nd rpt
with James
with James
Hidden 5 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf
Hidden 16 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf
Hidden 22 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
Alex Mason 25 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S The best route i have ever done, amazing from start to finish even the easy moves provide interest :D
with Tom Martin
The best route i have ever done, amazing from start to finish even the easy moves provide interest :D
with Tom Martin
Hidden 5 Jul, 2009 Lead dnf
Si Witcher 19 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 28 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S By the end i was pumped and had no gear. It was getting dark and was raining. Memorable.
By the end i was pumped and had no gear. It was getting dark and was raining. Memorable.
philhilo 28 Aug, 2008 2nd Nails as I remember/
Nails as I remember/
Neil McA 1 Aug, 2008 Lead rpt 26 years since my previous ascent so it felt like an on-sight again!
with Jonathan Morgan
26 years since my previous ascent so it felt like an on-sight again!
with Jonathan Morgan
Luke Brooks 14 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with Matt Dalby
with Matt Dalby
Hidden 8 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
fizzy_elephant 1 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S seemed to take quite a while over it but got there in the end!
with Lloyd Betsworth
seemed to take quite a while over it but got there in the end!
with Lloyd Betsworth
Hidden 2 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
Apharri ?Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
with Dave Wharton
Toby Dunn ??, 2007 -
Ram MkiV 7 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S Good gear, never desperate, very enjoyable. semi-cruised.
with Alex Mason
Good gear, never desperate, very enjoyable. semi-cruised.
with Alex Mason
Boy ??, 2006 -
mark s ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with andi t
with andi t
Hidden ?Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??, 2003 Lead O/S
with ben winston
with ben winston
steveb2006 21 Sep, 2002 Lead dog
with Ian Cartwright
with Ian Cartwright
skygodley 27 Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
with SarahM
with SarahM
DubyaJamesDubya ?Jun, 2002 Lead O/S
with Martin Peters, Ian Smith
with Martin Peters, Ian Smith
Davros the Psyched ??, 2002 -
Marti999 ?Jun, 2000 Lead β
with lorna
with lorna
goi.ashmore 14 May, 2000 Lead O/S Unquestionably superb. In a heatwave!
with Iain Fisher
Unquestionably superb. In a heatwave!
with Iain Fisher
nickcanute ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 -
philhilo ??, 2000 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2000 Lead
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
David Slater ?Aug, 1998 Lead
with Banbury MC
with Banbury MC
ste_d 17 Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
Mike_d78 17 Jul, 1997 2nd
with ste_d
with ste_d
Mike_d78 1 Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
phardman ??, 1997 -
Dave Douglas 4 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
with Ed Morgan
with Ed Morgan
steveb2006 13 Jul, 1996 Lead Unseconded
with Chris Webb
Unseconded
with Chris Webb
andy_pemberton 12 May, 1996 Lead excellent
with Noel
excellent
with Noel
Hidden 29 Jun, 1995 Lead rpt
crossleysm ??, 1995 Lead
keefe ??, 1995 -
Ian Jones ??, 1995 Lead O/S Very good.
with Karen Ghiselli
Very good.
with Karen Ghiselli
steve taylor ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
Cowflinger ?Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
Steve Crowe 10 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Hidden ?Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
steveb2006 26 Jun, 1994 Lead Great climbing
with Terry Thornton
Great climbing
with Terry Thornton
Hidden 5 Jun, 1994 2nd
UKB Shark ??, 1994 Lead
steveb2006 13 Jun, 1993 Lead Superb in spite of wet holds on the traverse. Tony doesn't second
with Tony Thorley
Superb in spite of wet holds on the traverse. Tony doesn't second
with Tony Thorley
Hidden 14 Aug, 1992 2nd O/S
ajtay ??, 1992 -
Pedro50 ??, 1992 Lead
with A. Belayer
with A. Belayer
Roget 28 Sep, 1991 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
g1m147 21 Jul, 1991 Lead O/S
with John Farry
with John Farry
steveb2006 29 Jun, 1991 Lead
with Simon Mee
with Simon Mee
Greg Cunningham 1 Jun, 1990 -
Bruce Kerr 17 Mar, 1990 Lead
with geomac
with geomac
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
keefe ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 2nd
with Roy
with Roy
Dave Musgrove 9 Aug, 1989 Lead O/S Best climb on limestone this year!
Best climb on limestone this year!
Dave Musgrove Jnr 9 Aug, 1989 2nd
Stoney Boy 6 Aug, 1989 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
with Colin Hughes
UKB Shark 22 Jul, 1989 Lead
with Stu Bolton
with Stu Bolton
Hidden ?Jul, 1989 Lead O/S
Alan Scowcroft 11 Jun, 1989 2nd dog
Hidden ?Jun, 1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 May, 1989 Lead
Will Webb 1 May, 1989 Lead
with Mark Cole
with Mark Cole
Johnny Baker ??, 1989 -
with Derek Toulalan
with Derek Toulalan
steveb2006 1 Oct, 1988 Lead Good ascent. Abb for gear as Simon doesnt second
with Simon Mee
Good ascent. Abb for gear as Simon doesnt second
with Simon Mee
goshawk ?Jun, 1988 Lead
with JI
with JI
Alan James - UKC and UKH 21 May, 1988 Lead
with Nigel Boothroyd
with Nigel Boothroyd
steveb2006 25 Jul, 1987 2nd Andy leads with one fall in the final crack
with Andy Towne, Gez Morgan
Andy leads with one fall in the final crack
with Andy Towne, Gez Morgan
John Marsland 11 Jul, 1987 2nd
with Dave Soles
with Dave Soles
Eduardo Martinez 11 Jul, 1987 Lead O/S
steveb2006 24 May, 1987 2nd Gez has one fall and one rest. I second it almost clean but with 1 rest in final crack
with Gez Morgan
Gez has one fall and one rest. I second it almost clean but with 1 rest in final crack
with Gez Morgan
Hidden 28 Apr, 1987 Lead
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Billg ??, 1987 Lead O/S
steveb2006 21 Sep, 1986 2nd Both of us come off and/or pull on gear
with Nigel Robinson (Yorkie)
Both of us come off and/or pull on gear
with Nigel Robinson (Yorkie)
sadams 31 Aug, 1986 Lead
with Kevin Edwards
with Kevin Edwards
steveb2006 27 Jul, 1986 Lead dog Sadly requires about 4 falls/rests to get up it
with Gary Burton
Sadly requires about 4 falls/rests to get up it
with Gary Burton
Hidden ??, 1986 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 1985 2nd
Hidden 9 Jun, 1985 Lead
Hidden 1 May, 1985 Lead
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Pete Wimbush ??, 1985 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 7 Jul, 1984 2nd
with Mike Arnold
with Mike Arnold
Rick51 20 May, 1984 2nd
charlesmfrench 12 Apr, 1984 2nd RP Led clean 21-8-1984
Led clean 21-8-1984
Dave Turnbull 31 Mar, 1984 Lead
with Jim Thomas
with Jim Thomas
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
Hidden ??, 1984 -
Gezzer ??, 1983 Lead O/S
Ivan Machin 26 Jul, 1982 -
with Jon Mellor
with Jon Mellor
Neil McA 25 Jul, 1982 Lead O/S
with Steve Hartland, Bob from Barnsley
with Steve Hartland, Bob from Barnsley
Steve Lewis 3 Jul, 1982 Lead O/S
with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson
with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson
Mike Owen 16 May, 1982 Lead O/S
with Phil Ralph
with Phil Ralph
Hidden ?Jun, 1981 Lead G/U
duncan ?Jun, 1981 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 11 Apr, 1981 2nd
with Bill McKee
with Bill McKee
Andy Edgar ??, 1981 Lead O/S Excellent route, hard to avoid putting your toe on the top peg!
Excellent route, hard to avoid putting your toe on the top peg!
Hidden ?Jul, 1980 -
redjerry ?Jun, 1980 Lead O/S
with Roy Williamson
with Roy Williamson
Hidden 6 Apr, 1980 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
petemeads ?Aug, 1978 Lead O/S An early free ascent - Livesey had claimed the first some time before. Exquisite, meandering route with pockets & threads, strenuous around the crux. Climbed with no information as nobody I knew had done it, probably because of its reputation at the time.
with Steve Taylor
An early free ascent - Livesey had claimed the first some time before. Exquisite, meandering route with pockets & threads, strenuous around the crux. Climbed with no information as nobody I knew had done it, probably because of its reputation at the time.
with Steve Taylor
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 47
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set