Rockfax Description
14m. Follow the right-trending flake by awkward laybacking (good gear is available but it is tricky to place) to bulges, which are crossed by a steep pull and a delicate exit out left. A fine line. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1958 Direct Finish Tony Barley 1967

Ticklists: Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Roaches HVS Challenge.

atthedropofahat 19/Nov/17 Lead dnf

Utterly failed, lower crack is hard work and the upper was impassably wet with my poor commitment

with Jed
julesmckim 29/Oct/17 Lead β
James Oakes 24/Sep/17 2nd rpt
Andrew171 02/Sep/17 Lead
with Blake
Joecartmell 04/Aug/17 Lead dog

Acked it out after a few falls from the bulge in layback (kept trying to move onto footjams) Next time committing too a full layback climb should make it easier.

Pippa 30/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Tracey
Droyd 06/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Awful idea given the heat

Fat Andy Heff 06/Jul/17 Lead G/U
with Droyd
Ky 13/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Pete Bridgewood
Chris Ebbutt 29/Apr/17 Lead
with Seb
keepguessing 29/Apr/17 2nd
with Chris
themattyshep 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Happy with this lead, pretty insecure with holes in the toes of my climbing shoes! But it's really good climbing throughout

Lenipen 23/Apr/17 2nd dnf

Nice layback start, unpleasant crux, want to try it again soon!

LCam98 11/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Fell on number two cam near the top of the bulge, lowered off tried again reaching the top break but placed a cam and lowered off it, abbed off to retrieve gear

Hidden 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
robgixer 08/Apr/17 2nd rpt
crossleysm 08/Apr/17 Lead

With falls

with Aiden Morris, robgixer
manwithacam 02/Apr/17 2nd

Solid grit HVS, no messing. Exhausting.

with Mark Grist
The Grist 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Quite a tough warm up.

with Dan Metcalfe
richy85 05/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with JonesE
JonesE 05/Dec/16 2nd β

Was expecting a fight and the upper groove delivered. I managed to udge my way up it with frozen hands and slightly 'green' holds. I was somehow boiling and freezing at the same time.

with Rich
adie84 09/Oct/16 -
Andy Peak 1 05/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Pure class

with Eszter
Dan Geh 05/Oct/16 Lead O/S
D.Russell 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Adam
Hidden 21/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead dog
Wendy Watthews 17/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with JakeB.
Dale Comley 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ollie Torr
shaunhumphreys 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Good route!! Looks like it will be a classic HVS struggle but is actually quite pleasant.

with Calum w
Josh Hadley 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
rurp 21/Jun/16 Lead

Vs 5a and a0! Top crux slimy green and shit, I can see why whillans didn't bother with the top move.

with bill farmer
Jim Slater 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 23/Apr/16 2nd rpt
with Jim
KeenClimber 13/Apr/16 Lead dog
with Jim
jimxxx 13/Apr/16 2nd
owain-1978 12/Oct/15 Lead O/S
steely 12/Oct/15 2nd

Fell off crux on lead after getting pumped on lay back crack. Owain then pissed it much to my frustration. One for another trip.

phillipwright 06/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Tall Gecko Hands 03/Oct/15 2nd

The first part is a slab without footholds that requires faith in friction, and high feet got me past the crux.

xiangoh 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Nathan Adam 12/Aug/15 2nd dog

Layback crack is delightful but top section is tricky to work out, got it second go. First route on grit in 20 odd degree heat which wasn't helpful!

Callum van Werkhoven 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Will Murphy
Will Murphy 10/Jun/15 Lead
with Cal, Andy
Flavio 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #2

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
Graeme Hammond 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Ace, lower crack was easier than expected, top was quite awkward and committing but with good gear. Good 2nd by Bex

with Becky E
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 2nd O/S
with noaks
James Oakes 26/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 -
Andy Myers 14/May/15 Lead O/S
Will Murphy 14/May/15 2nd
with Andy
Andrew Abraham 01/May/15 Lead rpt

It took me about a hour to get up it, made the mistake of thinking it would be easier the second time

with Ky
Daniel Allen 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
alias dave 18/Apr/15 Lead dog
John Higgs 21/Mar/15 Lead dnf
thomas108 ??/2015 Lead G/U
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
jrccrosby 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

My first successful HVS lead! Some serious fridge hugging at the top, from the ground I thought it was going to be over by that point!

Theeni 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Joseph
67hours 26/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Matt Cookie
Matt Cooke 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with George Cave
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 2nd O/S

13 on Staffordshire nose.

with Nick
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

13/31. A bit of a wobble on the upper bulge.

dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Chriswallis2 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham 14/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Stupid rain stopped play after 1 route

with Chris Wallis
Goodstuff 02/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Absorbing and satisfying, the top crux feels more like 5c. Very upper reaches of HVS.

with Jared
morganator 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Morris123 18/May/14 Lead
switch 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Tim H
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead
soph 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Lindy Smith
Tophe 29/Mar/14 2nd β
with Ben Ochner
friendzone1234 ?/Mar/14 Lead

fell on crux twice finished on redpoint without being lowered off

Hidden ??/2014 -
robgixer ??/2014 Lead O/S
mop449 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Strong but well protected

Bloke on a Rope 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
Climbster 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
PeteWilson 28/Aug/13 2nd


with Andrew Graham
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead
Alistair Corbett 25/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Mike
Mike W 25/Jul/13 Lead O/S
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
Stuart_Burbidge 05/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Fantastic HVS!

HAJ Francis 04/Jul/13 Lead β
WillDoyle 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Mark Stevenson 27/May/13 Lead G/U
Hidden 27/Oct/12 2nd
Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead
with Andy R
Ben1983 ?/Sep/12 Lead dog

Foot slip. How irritating.

Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd dog
cameron_hall 28/Jul/12 2nd dog
will_benfold 28/Jul/12 Lead dog

Took a fall about half way up, just after the crack changes angle.

with Cameron
g1m147 18/May/12 2nd
with Mick.
Hidden 01/Apr/12 2nd
Julesthe1st 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Sean
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead dnf
lost.arrow 16/Oct/11 -
with Stu Sherwood
Petarghh 09/Aug/11 2nd

Got stuck on the lead, came down and seconded after Dan

Hidden 23/Jul/11 TR O/S
minirollsrule 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S

awesome test of layback ability

with Tim Nixon
JaseSSDD 14/Jul/11 2nd
with Ian Barker
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead dnf
donkster 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with mudders
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 26/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with michael porter
pipof747 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
bnewman 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Hard, awkward crux! Well protected and memorable.

with Amelia
grp 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd dog
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
Hannes B 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Neil P
CharlieMack 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Awesome route, though i foolishly didnt take any gear big enough for the top half, so just had to run it out.

with Tom Seabridge
Emma-Louise Anderson 14/Oct/10 2nd

A bit commiting but more straight-forward moves than it looked, just need to commit to the lay-back. For leading one day!

tatz45 14/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Andrew Abraham 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Awsome route, you need to put the effort in though

monsteratt 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Not too bad to a small foot rail for a rest, but then two awkward and strenuous moves.

sam820 24/Sep/10 Lead β

Most gear in-situ from Terry's attempt

with Matt Roper, Terry
Hidden 24/Sep/10 Lead dog
riddle 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

fun, fun, fun

Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hewin 23/Jun/10 TR dog

Bloody hard graft, Emma tried to lead but failed at first bulge so I tried on top rope. The first buldge is tough, after this there is a tough layback move which I did in horrid style. Right hand low, left hand in higher crack to start then bring right hand up and over. There are three good hand holds here but this is blood, sweat and tears!

with WMC
RichT 18/May/10 Lead O/S

Cruised the first crack/corner but then took ages to commit to the pull over the bulge. Touch and go with very messy insecure jam just before reaching easy ground. Felt like a hard earned HVS tick.

with Helen
FrankW 15/May/10 2nd O/S
with Andy P, Lee Bonner
Garron 15/May/10 Lead β

Most gear insitu

The Bad Cough 14/May/10 Lead O/S
with Christian Minett
PeteH 08/May/10 2nd O/S
ndp 08/May/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
ozbaker ??/2010 TR β

After my partner backed off the lead, we couldn't resist it. Fantastic route.

Pete Graham 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
schaff 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mikkel
AJ007 01/Jun/09 Lead
with Dan
dan gibson 01/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with AJ
MaccMark 22/May/09 2nd
with Philip Jarvis
Hidden 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
highclimber ?/Aug/08 -
Bullybones ?/Jul/08 Lead
steveP 07/Jun/08 Lead dnf
with Dan Towns
DanT 07/Jun/08 TR dnf

Laybacked the start but neither Steve nor I could make the final crux move. Steve's attempt was made on the lead whilst mine was on a top rope.

Howard J 06/May/08 2nd dog

I don't like laybacks :(

with Mark Ford
feilx 24/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Harper
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Andy Webster
richardhopton 08/Oct/07 Lead dog

Fell 3 bloody times just before the crux, backed off for a teacake then tackled the high foot lay back over gear. Cracking climb, cant wait to lead it again! Half an hour to get the nut out afterwards!

with Matt Thombs
Mutl3y 21/Apr/07 2nd
with TonyM
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
nige 25/Aug/06 Lead
with sven rowan
Rob Davies 09/Jul/06 2nd
with Angus McLean
dan gibson 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with karing
Chesh 25/May/06 Lead
with Paul Lestor
goi.ashmore 24/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Highly amusing

with John Marsland
Hidden 23/Jul/05 2nd O/S
mark s ??/2005 -
Andy Campbell ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Neil
Gus ??/2003 Lead
northy1983 ??/2001 Lead O/S

my first lead. every runner wobbly and phils car broken into after. great being a student

with phil palmer tree
SR1970 ?/Sep/96 Lead O/S
brady ??/1995 2nd
with John Cameron
Mark Kemball 15/Apr/93 2nd
with Bill Kemball
Sean Kelly ?/Apr/93 Lead
with Pete Carmichael
Jon Read ?/Jan/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/92 Lead
Hidden 05/May/92 Lead
Roget 16/Sep/91 Solo O/S
Rob Davies ?/Sep/90 Lead
with Angus McLean
Hidden 16/May/90 Lead
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
andrew300169 ??/1990 Lead O/S
Tom V ??/1986 -
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Hidden 12/Jun/81 Lead
Andy Stephenson ??/1981 Lead O/S
Darron ??/1977 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 31
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set