Restricted Access
The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies from Flying Doctor / The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).
Rockfax Description
The long rising diagonal is the highest of the three girdles, and one of the major lines on the cliff, offering a superb outing with some astounding positions. Harder for the tall and potentially a bit of a gripper to second.
1) 4b, 35m. Start by the tree on the path, 10m right of a small cave and follow the cleaned path of West Wall Climb (p.380 ) for two pitches to the sheltered stance at the start of the break.
2) 5a, 22m. Traverse down and right across the wall following the line of good holds (don't forget the second) to reach the groove of The Thorn, then climb this to the holly tree belay.
3) 5a, 25m. Climb back down rightwards again and get past the horrible spiky bush. Cross the fingery wall to regain the break. Follow this (threads) in a wild position, to a grassy rake (thread belays up and left) and an easy escape to the ridge. © Rockfax
FA. G Smith, T Burnell 1966.
Ticklists
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , High Quality Adventure routes , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak Traverses
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ghost | 29 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Difficult to find the start of. Look for a slight clearing in the bushes / trees above you! Despite the vegetated start, the top pitches are fantastic! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Difficult to find the start of. Look for a slight clearing in the bushes / trees above you! Despite the vegetated start, the top pitches are fantastic! |
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| The Grist | 5 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is pretty tough for the grade and easy to get slightly off route making it significantly harder. Good fun and worth doing though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is pretty tough for the grade and easy to get slightly off route making it significantly harder. Good fun and worth doing though. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Beeston Tor
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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West Window Groove
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Manifold Valley)