24m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic and one of the hardest HVSs in the Peak for years!
1) 4a, 10m. Climb the grotty gully and cross the slab leftwards to a stance at the foot of the steep crack.
2) 5c, 14m. Jam and layback the crack to a pleasant, seated stance by a plaque that explains the route's name, which surprisingly is nothing to do with it being technical! © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1958

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Roaches HVS Challenge, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza.

James Oakes 24/Sep/17 Lead rpt
Munch 17/Jun/17 Lead dnf

Well and truly sandbagged

Hidden 09/Apr/17 2nd dog
phillipwright 27/Nov/16 2nd

This must be the hardest HVS/E1 in the universe. Brutal. Destroyed my hands

dom_joyce265 27/Nov/16 Lead RP

Tried a year or so before. Got spat out. Came back to get it. Hardest but funniest E1 in the peaks

D.Russell 21/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 21/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/16 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Sep/16 2nd dog
robgixer 17/Sep/16 Lead dog
Wendy Watthews 17/Sep/16 Lead dog

Horrific and dirty I was vey glad when I made it to the top

with JakeB.
Dale Comley 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ollie Torr
Jim Slater 23/Apr/16 2nd dnf
Graeme Hammond 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Hard but worthwhile - E1 5c**

with Jim
Flavio 11/Oct/15 Lead G/U
Louishmouis 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Dad
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 2nd O/S
with noaks
James Oakes 26/May/15 Lead O/S
soph 23/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Lindy Smith
Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 2nd rpt

14 on Staffordshire nose. Low point for me, after I fell off grappling with the chockstone. Felt completely bollocksed after a second attempt and handed the lead over to Nick. Trick is to layback all the way.

with Nick
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 Lead

14/31. The first move requires some commitment and a stiff pull! Steady above that.

crossleysm ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Tony Walker
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
morganator 26/May/14 2nd β
soph 18/May/14 Lead rpt
with Lindy Smith
morganator 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
soph 11/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden ??/2014 -
perrys 27/Sep/13 AltLd dnf

Could barely start the second pitch - a complete sandbag!

masa-alpin 27/Sep/13 Lead dnf

I couldn't pass the initial layback part... Climbed down many times to the ledge and finally fell off. Soooo hard!

with Simon P
Bloke on a Rope 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Did this after 6 days of climbing, and when i finally got to the base of the route and had a look at it my heart sank! Went with a bit of a tussle, i find punching yourself in the face helps you get the psyche required for success!

with Matt
Climbster 04/Sep/13 2nd β
with Ian
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
HAJ Francis 04/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Apr/13 2nd dog
Brown 22/Sep/12 2nd
with Andy R
Jonny Nick 20/Nov/11 2nd
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd
Chris Ebbutt 21/May/11 Lead
with Emma
northy1983 ??/2011 Lead

bloody dirty. have done since with andi for a more respectful ascent

with david h
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
Andrew Abraham 27/Sep/10 2nd β

Nice route, it was hard work starting the crack, especially as there was a lot of mud washed down the route!

monsteratt 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Took a while to commit to this. The start feels v steep and getting feet established for a good layback was tricky. Spent a while going up and downclimbing. Pretty straightforward once the you get the good layback. but still strenuous and difficult to place gear.

Hidden 22/May/10 Lead dnf
PeteH 08/May/10 Lead O/S

Hard start, but brilliant climbing.

ndp 08/May/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Mr Wild ?/Jul/09 Lead

Date is a guess from other logbook entries.

Hidden 13/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 13/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with michael porter
Alex Winter 08/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Jake climbed the tree to avoid the lower part of the crack

Smelly Fox 03/May/05 AltLd
with Mark Button
Hidden ??/2005 -
mark s ??/2005 -
Gus ??/2002 -
petekeron ??/2001 Lead O/S
philhilo ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
nokishatov 01/Aug/98 2nd
ste_d 01/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with mik
Hidden 10/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/97 2nd
SB_NWUK_99 ??/1997 Lead O/S

Lead in (about) 1997.

charlesmfrench 27/May/95 Lead O/S
with Dave McGimpsey
Hidden 24/Jul/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/93 Lead
Mark Kemball 15/Apr/93 2nd
with Bill Kemball
Hidden 13/Mar/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/92 Solo rpt
Roget 26/Jan/92 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Oct/91 Lead
with slow hand nick
Nigel Coe ??/1991 -
Hidden ??/1991 -
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
clanger ??/1972 -
26 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 9
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set