Rockfax Description
10m. Small wires protect the delicate left-hand arete. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Foord 1968

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Roaches HVS Challenge.

The Grist 02/Apr 2nd O/S

Tried leading it and backed off as I did not feel the psyche. Good psyche by Dan who led it. Not hard but scary and felt dangerous.

with Dan Metcalfe
manwithacam 02/Apr Lead

Interesting... Gets E1 in the True Grit guide, which I think is a more sensible grade. Pretty scary. Good little route tho

with Mark Grist
deacondeacon 27/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Amy Horton 09/Aug/15 2nd
katiep 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Got a bit sketched out but eventually managed to calm the disco legs to get up this

FlavioL1989 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #5

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Most terrified i have been in years. I missed the last runner and got gripped. The route was green and scaly like a giant's dermatitis. I said goodbye to my legs then mantled out the top, thanked my lucky stars and felt instantly elated. Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
thomas108 ??/2015 Lead G/U
Matt Cooke 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with George Cave
67hours 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Matt Cookie
DWebs 18/May/14 TR O/S
Adam Long 26/Apr/14 Lead
WillDoyle ??/2014 Lead O/S
JayAyBee ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Pat
Hidden ??/2014 -
Jules Lane 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Very enjoyable to second, right at my limit. Great lead by Dave as it is way more insecure than it looks from below.

with Mynydd Dave K
David Kay 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Good route, although it needs a bit more traffic to get rid of the blanket of lichen lower down. Maybe the description should be 'small wires *just about* protect the delicate left-hand arete'. The gear is there when you need it though with nice techy moves in between.

Malcolm Bass 30/Jun/13 2nd
with Andy Brown
Mike W 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
willoates 08/Oct/12 Solo O/S

reasonably techy, good to get the head in gear as it isn't just grab and pull, you're propperly climbing.

timmsy 16/Sep/12 2nd
with Neil
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
JaseSSDD 29/Mar/12 2nd
with Ian Barker
nbotting ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
keith leonard ??/2011 -
Jim Slater 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Scary especially when you fail to see the last gear placement and run it out.

Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd
Graeme Hammond 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

o/s mainly but tiny bit of beta that there was a wire on the left, though it was obvious from my different crux lay-back sequence, though if I'd spotted one of the other holds before I put it in i could have put it in balance rather than a precarious lay back position, still thought it was worth E1 as per the BMC guides

with Helen, Steve
Coel Hellier 22/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Boy ?/Oct/09 -
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
axeman 25/May/09 2nd O/S

thought this was a vs at first!! after thought it should be a E1 lol

with schofield
EmmanuelF 22/Mar/09 -

retreated from the sandy and green mantel, to much wind, not enough boldness

b.hayley ?/Sep/08 2nd
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Ally Smith 04/Feb/07 Lead
mattyork2 04/Feb/07 2nd
bigie bob 08/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Andrew Abraham 25/May/05 Lead β

on my Third attempt, seemed hard and dangerous for the grade, Mark Button left the gear in from his lead after I had already backed off it!

Hidden ??/2005 -
mark s ??/2005 -
Jon Read ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Debs & Clare Reading
Andy Clarke 31/May/04 Lead O/S

Bold but very good.

with Dale
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Gus ??/2002 -
tlr ??/2000 2nd
Hidden 03/May/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/97 2nd
nige ??/1994 Lead
with john buckley
Hidden 23/Aug/92 Solo O/S
Roget 28/Apr/92 Solo rpt
Roget 04/Aug/90 2nd O/S
with jim
andrew300169 ??/1990 Lead O/S
jon 27/May/87 Solo
Hidden 25/Jun/85 Lead
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Solo
GeoffG 09/Aug/76 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 16
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set