28m.

Rockfax Description
28m. Climb the left arete of the buttress past holes to a ledge then trend right via a grassy ledge to the right-hand arete. Up this delicately (poor protection) then step left to finish up a short flake crack. Mild at the grade but with a serious section that requires a careful approach. © Rockfax

FA. Ivan Waller 1930

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Roaches HVS Challenge, CUMC First Ascents, The V.S.+ Ticklist

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UserDateNotes
Si dH 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The crux was definitely leaving the ledge for me, which had a reasonable-ish cam and a poor nut t oprotect it, probably ok overall. The smear up was ok, I dont think it was height dependent since my taller mate seemed ot find it harder than me (hes better than me and was seconding) plus I certainly didnt place any gear before doing the move - where is it? There is a good flat top to hold on to and a big foothold to aim for to step up on. Didnt think this was avery good rotue anyway - 1 star soft touch HVS. DD is absolutely miles better (and miles harder!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crux was definitely leaving the ledge for me, which had a reasonable-ish cam and a poor nut t oprotect it, probably ok overall. The smear up was ok, I dont think it was height dependent since my taller mate seemed ot find it harder than me (hes better than me and was seconding) plus I certainly didnt place any gear before doing the move - where is it? There is a good flat top to hold on to and a big foothold to aim for to step up on. Didnt think this was avery good rotue anyway - 1 star soft touch HVS. DD is absolutely miles better (and miles harder!)
Andrew Barker 20 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very green at this time of year, all the moves are fairly straightforward except for the crux which felt a little off balance (I'm 5'9 so to paraphrase - "I couldn't reach the holds so I had to use skill". Nice route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very green at this time of year, all the moves are fairly straightforward except for the crux which felt a little off balance (I'm 5'9 so to paraphrase - "I couldn't reach the holds so I had to use skill". Nice route though.
Smelly Fox 10 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree. Theres a good piece to protect the crux if you reach up. Good effort without sticky rubber!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree. Theres a good piece to protect the crux if you reach up. Good effort without sticky rubber!
Offwidth 7 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Was I on a different route? The pro seemed good to me at every hard move except leaving the midway ledge (where it was adequate). The crux was the final hard 4c smears before easier climbing, which would be incredibly serious and much harder for short climbers who cant reach the easier holds or the nut placements. (I'm 5'10' BTW)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Was I on a different route? The pro seemed good to me at every hard move except leaving the midway ledge (where it was adequate). The crux was the final hard 4c smears before easier climbing, which would be incredibly serious and much harder for short climbers who cant reach the easier holds or the nut placements. (I'm 5'10' BTW)
Chris the Tall 3 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: OK I soloed this and didn't look around for the gear, but it felt very easy for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: OK I soloed this and didn't look around for the gear, but it felt very easy for the grade.
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I climbed this with Al and he did it with a cool head, very modest about the gear it was unusual and quite ingenious! Considering how green it was, we wondered if it had been climbed since 1930?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I climbed this with Al and he did it with a cool head, very modest about the gear it was unusual and quite ingenious! Considering how green it was, we wondered if it had been climbed since 1930?
sutty 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: noticed the FA 1930, Waller had guts, no runners at all. I have turned back off it thinking it unjustifiable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: noticed the FA 1930, Waller had guts, no runners at all. I have turned back off it thinking it unjustifiable.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 5 Oct Lead O/S
GeorgeHH 20 Sep Lead O/S Really fun slab climbing, worthwhile!
with Beth
Really fun slab climbing, worthwhile!
with Beth
MarkStephenPeck 22 Aug Lead O/S
conronoy 18 Aug Lead O/S
guy127917 13 Apr Lead O/S
Bones [:B 13 Apr 2nd β
lanky 13 Apr 2nd
with Bubbles
with Bubbles
mattleepianist ?Apr 2nd
hervenuttall ?Apr Lead O/S Spacious gear, a bit green, felt full on for HVS. Upper bit is scary!
with Matt W
Spacious gear, a bit green, felt full on for HVS. Upper bit is scary!
with Matt W
justdoit 28 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 21 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Bit baffled as to where the "runners" were until I looked by my feet. Could protect the crux move with small wires too.
Bit baffled as to where the "runners" were until I looked by my feet. Could protect the crux move with small wires too.
mike.moss 7 Oct, 2018 Lead
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 7 Oct, 2018 2nd
RachelHC 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Needed a cool head for this one due to lack of gear placement options!
with Albie
Needed a cool head for this one due to lack of gear placement options!
with Albie
DMC 20 Apr, 2018 Solo O/S
mrphilipoldham 6 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Bumbling up the right hand arete after the traverse is a bit scary!
with Victoria Jewitt
Bumbling up the right hand arete after the traverse is a bit scary!
with Victoria Jewitt
WillRhodes 1 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S Rather unprotected. Attempted to go direct by raven rock gully and got rather comitted, before returning back right.
Rather unprotected. Attempted to go direct by raven rock gully and got rather comitted, before returning back right.
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
themattyshep 26 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Amy L
with Amy L
derekwwl 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
crossleysm 23 Apr, 2017 2nd rpt
with Derek Woo
with Derek Woo
Alex@home 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with The Doctor
with The Doctor
Ids1165 ??, 2017 Lead
Stroppy 6 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S COLD!!!
with Luke Johnson
COLD!!!
with Luke Johnson
adie84 9 Oct, 2016 -
Dexter JW 9 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Quite green, smearing on algae is nerve racking and very bad and small pro between limited alright ones. Not that soft considering the gear.
with Popz
Quite green, smearing on algae is nerve racking and very bad and small pro between limited alright ones. Not that soft considering the gear.
with Popz
Hidden 22 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Oct, 2015 2nd
hthom 10 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
with Lewis Mills, Babika
with Lewis Mills, Babika
katiep 9 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Nice wandering route
Nice wandering route
Amy Ellie 9 Aug, 2015 2nd
adam088 11 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Quico
with Quico
andybirtwistle 27 Jun, 2015 Lead
keith Lonsdale 27 Jun, 2015 2nd
Mike Turner 21 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Martin Mitchell
with Martin Mitchell
mcmitch 21 Jun, 2015 2nd
Leofallon 11 Jun, 2015 Lead
with David Brown
with David Brown
Hidden 9 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Flavio 7 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Roaches HVS Challenge #6
Roaches HVS Challenge #6
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 2nd
PeteWilson 4 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with josh, Dave
with josh, Dave
Mike W ??, 2015 Lead
Hidden ??, 2015 -
thomas108 ??, 2015 Lead G/U
Stuart William 12 Oct, 2014 Lead rpt Good gear but it would be a big fall from the crux. Really cool moves on the slab. Scary and sandy but so so worth it.
with Mark
Good gear but it would be a big fall from the crux. Really cool moves on the slab. Scary and sandy but so so worth it.
with Mark
GermanAlex 12 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Pure Gritstone friction climbing, the boldness adds to the experience. I'd argue it deserves HVS (in contrast to Bachelor's B. which nominally has the same grade but is much easier and has about the same amount of gear)
with Arno
Pure Gritstone friction climbing, the boldness adds to the experience. I'd argue it deserves HVS (in contrast to Bachelor's B. which nominally has the same grade but is much easier and has about the same amount of gear)
with Arno
mr random 27 Sep, 2014 2nd
with Ian Peg
with Ian Peg
adam clarke 7 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Adam Lynch
with Adam Lynch
rurp 8 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Pleasent
with bill farmer
Pleasent
with bill farmer
WillDoyle 26 May, 2014 Solo O/S
bazilikiukas 1 Mar, 2014 TR dog Nice climb, but half of it did not have any features. Luckily, the grit stone was very nice for the feet, the shoes just stuck to it.
Nice climb, but half of it did not have any features. Luckily, the grit stone was very nice for the feet, the shoes just stuck to it.
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Rob Gillespie ??, 2014 Lead O/S
FelixPeterken 28 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S
with AndrewP
with AndrewP
AndrewP 28 Sep, 2013 Lead Only found 4 runners so quite scary. Too escapable to be worth any stars.
Only found 4 runners so quite scary. Too escapable to be worth any stars.
jimbonfire 11 Jul, 2013 -
Nick Russell 7 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Very green, makes the traverse a bit scary. Improves greatly once you make the move up the right hand side of the slab. I'll give it a star for history, and maybe it could be worth two given a good clean.
with Simon
Very green, makes the traverse a bit scary. Improves greatly once you make the move up the right hand side of the slab. I'll give it a star for history, and maybe it could be worth two given a good clean.
with Simon
Double Knee Bar 19 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Nice bold climbing, low in the grade but defo HVS
Nice bold climbing, low in the grade but defo HVS
Hidden 19 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
Cerin Smith ?Jun, 2013 Lead RP
with Tom Baldwin
with Tom Baldwin
monsteratt 28 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Green low down and scary all over!
with Toby
Green low down and scary all over!
with Toby
cem 7 Apr, 2013 2nd
Hidden 7 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
AndrewJamesCherry ??, 2013 Lead O/S
with hfisher
with hfisher
sgl 27 Jul, 2012 Lead
with Susie, chad
with Susie, chad
Chad123 27 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S Nice climbing, low in grade, hard part near to gear and rock is much cleaner than it looks!
with sgl
Nice climbing, low in grade, hard part near to gear and rock is much cleaner than it looks!
with sgl
Anthony Dixon 22 Jul, 2012 Lead
eloise 11 Jul, 2012 TR O/S
Alex Winter 24 May, 2012 Lead O/S Bottom is green. Middle is bold. Top is eliminate.
Bottom is green. Middle is bold. Top is eliminate.
Hidden 24 May, 2012 2nd O/S
jimlear ??, 2012 -
Hidden ?Oct, 2011 Lead
Hidden 20 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
JaseSSDD 14 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Ian Barker
with Ian Barker
Hidden 12 Jul, 2011 Solo O/S
andyjirvin 14 Jun, 2011 2nd β Nice easy climbing on second.
Nice easy climbing on second.
craig naylor 2 Jun, 2011 2nd
Hidden 2 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
rwm7131 24 May, 2011 Lead
wirralclimber1984 24 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
with richard matthias
with richard matthias
Sidekick 4 May, 2011 Solo O/S
Hidden 19 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
Jake Young 19 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Stuart William 6 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
with Matt Reynolds
with Matt Reynolds
Mark Salter 15 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 27 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
michael burrows 22 May, 2010 Lead rpt
with phil biglands
with phil biglands
grady ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Garron ??, 2010 Lead O/S Very lichenous pity.
Very lichenous pity.
RM199 ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 31 May, 2009 Lead O/S needs a carefull approch as protection is poor in middle section, nice climb though, did it before it got to hot luckerly.
needs a carefull approch as protection is poor in middle section, nice climb though, did it before it got to hot luckerly.
Byronius Maximus 31 May, 2009 2nd O/S
with Graeme Hammond
with Graeme Hammond
nickwhimster 11 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with pete
with pete
keith leonard ??, 2009 -
Danhan ??, 2009 Lead
with bobfish
with bobfish
natalie28 31 Dec, 2008 2nd Very cold....but a lovely climb...even though i some how managed to travese above the gear so had to drop back down....!
Very cold....but a lovely climb...even though i some how managed to travese above the gear so had to drop back down....!
tomboyle 21 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
stevepotter 29 Jun, 2008 Lead
with Adie
with Adie
dannyboy83 ?Feb, 2008 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 -
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
RocknRoll 23 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
with Suzanne Sheehy
with Suzanne Sheehy
Snot 11 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S Very slimy and in the dark, nice climbing but could do with some more gear. Perhaps a bolt?
Very slimy and in the dark, nice climbing but could do with some more gear. Perhaps a bolt?
Dr Caterpillar 11 Nov, 2007 2nd dog
with Snot
with Snot
donkster 25 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with dennis
with dennis
Richard Fox 5 May, 2007 2nd O/S
with Rob Dorman
with Rob Dorman
Steve Waters, Mynydd 1 Apr, 2007 2nd O/S
with Martin Kocsis
with Martin Kocsis
davek 21 Mar, 2007 2nd
with Shaun L
with Shaun L
Si dH 4 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S Didnt think it was worth 2 stars. Dorothy's Dilemma is miles better.
with Neil Furniss
Didnt think it was worth 2 stars. Dorothy's Dilemma is miles better.
with Neil Furniss
Duncan I ??, 2007 -
Hidden 7 Sep, 2006 2nd O/S
Whitt 7 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S Mind bendingly scary!
with Andy
Mind bendingly scary!
with Andy
Chris the Tall 15 Jun, 2006 Solo rpt Determined to get a couple of routes in between the England match and the BMC meeting
Determined to get a couple of routes in between the England match and the BMC meeting
dan gibson 4 Jun, 2006 Solo rpt
John Lisle ??, 2006 -
dan gibson ??, 2006 -
dan_o_b ??, 2006 Lead
Hidden 19 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker ??, 2005 Lead O/S
mark s ??, 2005 -
Smelly Fox ?Oct, 2004 Lead O/S
with Rob Clifton
with Rob Clifton
Andy Clarke 21 Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
with ChrisA
with ChrisA
jimshrimp 6 Jul, 2004 Lead O/S
James B 30 May, 2004 -
Stig 23 May, 2004 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Andrew Abraham ??, 2004 2nd O/S Tris Fox led, was a bit run out and there were some nice plants to see on the way
Tris Fox led, was a bit run out and there were some nice plants to see on the way
Gus ??, 2004 Lead
Lev 18 Oct, 2003 Lead rpt
with Spen
with Spen
Chris the Tall ?Oct, 2003 Solo O/S
Nick Haine ?Aug, 2003 Lead
Mark Stevenson 18 Jun, 2003 Solo O/S
Jonnaylor 18 Jun, 2003 2nd RAFMA Meet
with Churchy
RAFMA Meet
with Churchy
Theeni ?Apr, 2003 Lead
nige pacer 16 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
Lev 14 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
with Spen
with Spen
bigphil ??, 2003 -
Hidden 16 Aug, 2002 Lead
Gus ??, 2002 -
Alastair Hudson 10 Jun, 2001 Lead
with Adam Demmert
with Adam Demmert
Hidden 14 Jan, 2001 2nd
petekeron ??, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
philhilo ??, 2000 -
tlr ??, 2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??, 2000 Lead
with Gaz Haynes
with Gaz Haynes
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
Mick King 12 Jun, 1999 Solo O/S
John Marsland 3 May, 1999 Lead
with Ian Manocha
with Ian Manocha
Chris Murray ?Jun, 1998 AltLd
with Richard Bower
with Richard Bower
antroy 10 Apr, 1998 Lead
Neil McA 5 Oct, 1996 Lead O/S
with Noel Crane, Andy Cave
with Noel Crane, Andy Cave
Phil West 10 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
with David Atherton
with David Atherton
jmr 2 Jun, 1996 Lead
with Paul Greenhow
with Paul Greenhow
brady ??, 1996 2nd
with John Cameron
with John Cameron
alan moore ??, 1996 - Only one tricky move but a great route.
Only one tricky move but a great route.
andybirtwistle 21 Oct, 1995 Lead
with Kate Wiseman
with Kate Wiseman
keith Lonsdale 21 Oct, 1995 2nd
with Ann Lonsdale, andybirtwistle
with Ann Lonsdale, andybirtwistle
Duncan Bourne 26 Aug, 1995 Solo O/S
michael burrows 27 Jun, 1995 Solo
charlesmfrench 27 May, 1995 Solo O/S
with Dave McGimpsey
with Dave McGimpsey
nai ??, 1995 Lead
roncaves 8 May, 1994 2nd
with Ian Wadsworth
with Ian Wadsworth
Hidden 24 Oct, 1993 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Aug, 1993 Lead
Iain Thow 15 May, 1993 Lead
with Rosy Wright
with Rosy Wright
Hidden 21 Feb, 1993 Lead O/S
Colin McKerrell ??, 1992 -
crossleysm ??, 1992 Lead O/S
The Reaper 5 Sep, 1991 Lead O/S
Andy Say 19 Aug, 1991 Solo
whatevertheweather ?Jul, 1991 2nd O/S Was vs 4b back then lol
Was vs 4b back then lol
Hidden 15 Sep, 1990 Lead
Hidden 26 Aug, 1990 Solo
Roget 15 Jun, 1990 Solo O/S
Hidden 2 May, 1990 Lead
andrew300169 ??, 1990 Lead
babymoac 11 Sep, 1988 -
with Bob Hunter
with Bob Hunter
steve prior ?Sep, 1986 Lead
with Chris S
with Chris S
Brian Wilderspin 17 Apr, 1985 -
with Stan Vick
with Stan Vick
andy gittins ??, 1984 -
stp 19 Jun, 1983 Solo O/S
Howard J ?Oct, 1982 2nd
Hidden 1 Jul, 1982 Solo
Darron ??, 1980 -
GeoffG 9 Aug, 1976 Lead
rogerskews ??, 1974 -
Rick51 30 May, 1973 2nd
oldmanofmow ??, 1962 Lead Pete Williams
Pete Williams
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 39
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set