Rockfax Description
28m. Climb the left arete of the buttress past holes to a ledge then trend right via a grassy ledge to the right-hand arete. Up this delicately (poor protection) then step left to finish up a short flake crack. Mild at the grade but with a serious section that requires a careful approach. © Rockfax

FA. Ivan Waller 1930

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Roaches HVS Challenge, CUMC First Ascents, The V.S.+ Ticklist.

WillRhodes 01/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Rather unprotected. Attempted to go direct by raven rock gully and got rather comitted, before returning back right.

admcne 26/Aug/17 2nd O/S
themattyshep 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Amy L
derekwwl 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with simon crossley
crossleysm 23/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with Derek Woo
Alex@home 22/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with The Doctor
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
Stroppy 06/Nov/16 Lead O/S


with Luke Johnson
adie84 09/Oct/16 -
Dexter JW 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Quite green, smearing on algae is nerve racking and very bad and small pro between limited alright ones. Not that soft considering the gear.

with Popz
Hidden 22/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd
hthom 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Lewis Mills, Babika
katiep 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Nice wandering route

Amy Horton 09/Aug/15 2nd
adam088 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Quico
andybirtwistle 27/Jun/15 Lead
keith Lonsdale 27/Jun/15 2nd
Mike Turner 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Martin Mitchell
mcmitch 21/Jun/15 2nd
Leofallon 11/Jun/15 Lead
with David Brown
Hidden 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Flavio 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #6

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 2nd

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
PeteWilson 04/May/15 2nd O/S
with josh, Dave
Mike W ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
thomas108 ??/2015 Lead G/U
Stuart William 12/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Good gear but it would be a big fall from the crux. Really cool moves on the slab. Scary and sandy but so so worth it.

with Mark
GermanAlex 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Pure Gritstone friction climbing, the boldness adds to the experience. I'd argue it deserves HVS (in contrast to Bachelor's B. which nominally has the same grade but is much easier and has about the same amount of gear)

with Arno
mr random 27/Sep/14 2nd
with Ian Peg
adam clarke 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Adam Lynch
rurp 08/Jul/14 Lead O/S


with bill farmer
WillDoyle 26/May/14 Solo O/S
bazilikiukas 01/Mar/14 TR dog

Nice climb, but half of it did not have any features. Luckily, the grit stone was very nice for the feet, the shoes just stuck to it.

with Mary
Hidden ??/2014 -
Rob Gillespie ??/2014 Lead O/S
FelixPeterken 28/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with AndrewP
AndrewP 28/Sep/13 Lead

Only found 4 runners so quite scary. Too escapable to be worth any stars.

jimbonfire 11/Jul/13 -
Nick Russell 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Very green, makes the traverse a bit scary. Improves greatly once you make the move up the right hand side of the slab. I'll give it a star for history, and maybe it could be worth two given a good clean.

with Simon
Double Knee Bar 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nice bold climbing, low in the grade but defo HVS

Hidden 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Cerin Smith ?/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Tom Baldwin
monsteratt 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Green low down and scary all over!

with Toby
cem 07/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2013 Lead O/S
sgl 27/Jul/12 Lead
with Susie, chad
Chad123 27/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Nice climbing, low in grade, hard part near to gear and rock is much cleaner than it looks!

with Sam
Anthony Dixon 22/Jul/12 Lead
eloise 11/Jul/12 TR O/S
Alex Winter 24/May/12 Lead O/S

Bottom is green. Middle is bold. Top is eliminate.

Hidden 24/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S
JaseSSDD 14/Jul/11 2nd
with Ian Barker
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
andyjirvin 14/Jun/11 2nd β

Nice easy climbing on second.

craig naylor 02/Jun/11 2nd
with nick
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
rwm7131 24/May/11 Lead
wirralclimber1984 24/May/11 AltLd O/S
with richard matthias
Sidekick 04/May/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Jake Young 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Stuart William 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Matt Reynolds
Mark Salter 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
michael burrows 22/May/10 Lead rpt
with phil biglands
grady ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Garron ??/2010 Lead O/S

Very lichenous pity.

RM199 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 31/May/09 Lead O/S

needs a carefull approch as protection is poor in middle section, nice climb though, did it before it got to hot luckerly.

Byronius Maximus 31/May/09 2nd O/S
with Graeme Hammond
nickwhimster 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with pete
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Danhan ??/2009 Lead
with Steve
natalie28 31/Dec/08 2nd

Very cold....but a lovely climb...even though i some how managed to travese above the gear so had to drop back down....!

with Rik
tomboyle 21/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with horsi
stevepotter 29/Jun/08 Lead
with Adie
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
RocknRoll 23/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Suzanne Sheehy
Circus 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Very slimy and in the dark, nice climbing but could do with some more gear. Perhaps a bolt?

with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 11/Nov/07 2nd dog
with Adam
donkster 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with dennis
Richard Fox 05/May/07 2nd O/S
with Rob Dorman
Steve Waters, Mynydd 01/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Martin Kocsis
davek 21/Mar/07 2nd
with Shaun L
Si dH 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S

Didnt think it was worth 2 stars. Dorothy's Dilemma is miles better.

with Neil Furniss
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Hidden 07/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Whitt 07/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Mind bendingly scary!

with Andy
Chris the Tall 15/Jun/06 Solo rpt

Determined to get a couple of routes in between the England match and the BMC meeting

dan gibson 04/Jun/06 Solo rpt
John Lisle ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
dan_o_b ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 19/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker ??/2005 Lead O/S
mark s ??/2005 -
Smelly Fox ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Rob Clifton
Andy Clarke 21/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with ChrisA
jimshrimp 06/Jul/04 Lead O/S
James B 30/May/04 -
Stig 23/May/04 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Andrew Abraham ??/2004 2nd O/S

Tris Fox led, was a bit run out and there were some nice plants to see on the way

Gus ??/2004 Lead
Lev 18/Oct/03 Lead rpt
with Spen
Chris the Tall ?/Oct/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead
Mark Stevenson 18/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Theeni ?/Apr/03 Lead
nige pacer 16/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Lev 14/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Spen
bigphil ??/2003 -
Hidden 16/Aug/02 Lead
Gus ??/2002 -
Alastair Hudson 10/Jun/01 Lead
with Adam Demmert
Hidden 14/Jan/01 2nd
petekeron ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/00 Lead O/S
philhilo ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Gaz Haynes
Bullybones ??/2000 -
John Marsland 03/May/99 Lead
with Ian Manocha
Chris Murray ?/Jun/98 AltLd
with Richard Bower
antroy 10/Apr/98 Lead
Phil West 10/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with David Atherton
jmr 02/Jun/96 Lead
with Paul Greenhow
brady ??/1996 2nd
with John Cameron
alan moore ??/1996 -

Only one tricky move but a great route.

andybirtwistle 21/Oct/95 Lead
with Kate Wiseman
keith Lonsdale 21/Oct/95 2nd
with Ann Lonsdale, Andy Birtwistle
Duncan Bourne 26/Aug/95 Solo O/S
michael burrows 27/Jun/95 Solo
charlesmfrench 27/May/95 Solo O/S
with Dave McGimpsey
nai ??/1995 Lead
roncaves 08/May/94 2nd
with Ian Wadsworth
Hidden 24/Oct/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/93 Lead
Iain Thow 15/May/93 Lead
with Rosy Wright
Hidden 21/Feb/93 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1992 Lead O/S
The Reaper 05/Sep/91 Lead O/S
Andy Say 19/Aug/91 Solo
whatevertheweather ?/Jul/91 2nd O/S

Was vs 4b back then lol

Hidden 15/Sep/90 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/90 Solo
Roget 15/Jun/90 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/May/90 Lead
andrew300169 ??/1990 Lead
babymoac 11/Sep/88 -
with Bob Hunter
Hidden ?/Sep/86 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 17/Apr/85 -
with Stan Vick
andy gittins ??/1984 -
stp 19/Jun/83 Solo O/S
Howard J ?/Oct/82 2nd
Hidden 01/Jul/82 Solo
GeoffG 09/Aug/76 Lead
rogerskews ??/1974 -
oldmanofmow ??/1962 Lead

Pete Williams

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 35
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set