Rockfax Description
24m. Boulder up into the hanging groove then mince rightwards awkwardly (especially if you're long-legged) to pass the nose and climb the excellent gradually-widening cracks above. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans 1951

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Roaches HVS Challenge, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, To Goliath's Groove and beyond, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Teappleby 01/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Just the top half but have done bottom on smear test before. So done all the bits of it now.

Paul ablitt 04/Oct/17 Lead rpt
George_Surf 22/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Hard start, middle and end! Getting off the floor and across to the traverse was hard, jumped off twice. Moving around the nose was also hard with rounded wide crack. Next hand crack is alright but the offwidth above is hard (silver dragon) with a horrible exit. Slipped in a cow poop

rachelpearce01 22/Sep/17 2nd O/S
DavidMcK 15/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Right, I'm no a guidebook but surely this is E1? It's miles harder than any other HVS in the peak and harder than a lot of E1's too.

TheSingularity 15/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/17 2nd
malone 14/Jul/17 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/17 2nd
poeter210 01/Jul/17 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jul/17 2nd O/S
James Smith 27/May/17 2nd rpt
with Matt G
Ky 22/May/17 Lead O/S
with Andi Turner
themattyshep 03/May/17 Lead dog

Shit Show sums up the top cracks well. I cruised the bottom undercut and turning the corner lip was great

keepguessing 01/May/17 Lead O/S
with Chris
Chris Ebbutt 01/May/17 2nd dog
with Seb
jake lee 28/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with hannah wright
Hidden 23/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Alex@home 22/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
Jmpollard 13/Apr/17 Lead

Putting this as lead no style. Got to the ledge, had a go at smear test, lobbed off, climbed back up to the ledge then finished the mincer. Really good climb!

Hidden 13/Apr/17 2nd
James Smith 11/Apr/17 -

Top crack the crux for me. Especially when I got my foot jammed against the rope..!

with melty
Gympaul 09/Apr/17 Lead
with Dale
robgixer 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Mike W 05/Apr/17 2nd rpt
Andrew Abraham 05/Apr/17 Lead rpt
harry.morrish 26/Mar/17 Lead dnf

definitely got minced!-couldn't do the crux going from the roof around to the upper crack. harry shat himself trying it !

Alex Hyde 26/Mar/17 2nd O/S

Real beasting even seconding it

with Matt
mattlyons 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Alex Hyde
Hidden 05/Feb/17 2nd
Melonfly ?/Jan/17 2nd O/S

Wow... my first hand stack!

with James
Guy Bennell ??/2017 2nd
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
Steve Vincent 18/Nov/16 2nd
with Sean West
kingfionnbharr 07/Nov/16 Lead
Stroppy 06/Nov/16 Lead rpt

Smear test was wet :(

with Luke Johnson
Jonny Nick 23/Oct/16 Lead dog
ferdia 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
youwillfindjimbo 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Jess
Andy Moles 09/Oct/16 2nd
with Ferdia
w-watson 08/Oct/16 Lead
Francois R 08/Oct/16 Lead

Nice route

with Pok
Keith Swainson 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Looks like the Back Bowden E1 The Arches, climbs much harder. Up there with the hardest I've had to think on HVS but a brilliant varied route, with some quality moves, steep learning curve on butterfly jams above the traverse for me, but there may well be other was.

with Georgie
Georgie25 08/Oct/16 2nd
Wizzy 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Easily hard E1 5b

M_Robinson 23/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Ab-ed off the chock, I still can't jam

with Chi Cheng
D.Russell 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Adam
Hidden 21/Sep/16 2nd O/S
M60OON 19/Sep/16 2nd dog
with rob 528
Rob Gillespie 19/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Proper HVS 5b, another brilliant brown & whillans route

with M60OON
jimbonfire 11/Sep/16 Lead
with TT
Andrew Abraham 31/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Mark Duncan 24/Aug/16 -
James rogers86 24/Aug/16 Lead

Glad you get This as it spanked me a few years back.

PeteWilson 23/Aug/16 Lead

class route. was very hot and greasy, as well as annoyingly wet on the crux!! knew about issues with ropework, and yet still chose ignorence. 1inch from topping out and my rope got too jammed and i couldnt move!

Hillson 23/Aug/16 2nd
Dale Comley 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ollie Torr
idlefoddie 04/Jun/16 2nd dog

a grim few moves around the arete, definitely not one that favors the tall.

adamre12 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Brutal but awesome!

Hidden 30/May/16 2nd RP
Sam Husband 28/May/16 2nd O/S

A direct version after ed had too much disco leg to finnish smear test. Heinous thrutchy jamming though the roof (for the tall - some revenge for short climbers who have to watch us lank through most cruxes!)

with Ed
MD 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Minced across the traverse then was minced back by the crack. The start is quite bold.

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 15/May/16 2nd dog
with Mike D
mrteale 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Decided to 'warm up' on this nice looking crack. Got thoroughly minced. Teaches me for not looking at who the first ascensionists are before setting off!

with DanOsb
DanOsb 03/Apr/16 2nd

Bleedin 'ard work for a warm up. The top cracks were pretty amazing though.

with Edward
Robb Bert 13/Mar/16 -
JendeHoxar 13/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Robb
admackie 27/Feb/16 Lead
with andy
Andy Peak 1 27/Feb/16 2nd

Ha ha just plain hard!

Bristoldave 01/Jan/16 Lead rpt
with Gerald
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
TDSvejstrup 17/Oct/15 2nd
zcsharp 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Danish
Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Oct/15 2nd dnf
smallerrich 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Steve got minced, hahaha

with Steve
xiangoh 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
will9911 18/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Absolutely desperate! Hard move lower down , stupidly high feet with your head in the roof when you're 6'2' but the hard parts higher up. Maybe 5b lower and 5c higher

with Tony Madden
dswansonlow 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Lisa
Stroppy 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Have done the roof before on Smear Test but very much enjoyed the cracks. Another infamous Roaches route that lives up to its reputation

Jake Young 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

having previously done the crux as part of smear teast.

mikespooner 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic route, terrible rope work on my part!

Louishmouis 31/Jul/15 2nd
with Dad
noemie5438 18/Jul/15 2nd
AmyG 18/Jul/15 Lead


Mowglee 05/Jul/15 Lead dog

Fucking horrendous

with Ali
mapperley samurai 24/Jun/15 2nd
with Matt Jaggers
Flavio 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #9

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 2nd

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
bigdrew 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Dunc Frish
James Oakes 26/May/15 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 Lead O/S
with noaks
Tim Rodgers 26/Apr/15 Lead
robertmichaellovell 26/Apr/15 2nd

perfect breakfast warm up route

with Tim
PaulTanton 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S

This is so hard if your tall. Very tricky to get round into the main crack. Beware!! The rope will pull a cam deep into the main crack. We got one stuck but managed to extract it. There is one lost right in the back...

The Grist 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
pietrod ?/Apr/15 -
Andy Peak 1 25/Mar/15 2nd

That starting move with no gear in was spicey

John Higgs 21/Mar/15 Lead dnf
Tom McCabe 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Hard getting off the ground. Very good route, take care with cams in the upper cracks. Finished right.

JRJones 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
thomas108 ??/2015 Lead G/U
shaunhumphreys 28/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

pretty hard! couldnt commit to the top offwidth without a biger cam so pitched it at the ledge so ben could come up and smash it!

benkelsey 28/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Seconded Shaun up to ledge then finished the offwidth at the top. good effort on the traverse, felt pretty goey

with Shaun Humphreys
jamesgodwin64 12/Oct/14 2nd rpt

loved this route still hard trying to get around the corner but BE WARNED don't put gear in the crack after the layback crack, you either loose something or get the rope stuck on the gear.

with John Cooper
Rafal Malczyk 28/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Very hard start - I fell off while trying to place 1st bit of gear. Luckily no injuries thanks to Ian's good spotting.

with Ian Pegg
Hidden 15/Sep/14 Solo β
Andy Smallwood 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S
NickNixon 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nepsoi999 14/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd dog
Jim Slater 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Happy to get the onsight, being 6 2 was a bit scrunched up on the traverse!

Brannock 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
soph 23/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 Lead rpt

18/31. I'd forgotten about the fist crack section. Gnarly.

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 2nd rpt

18 on Staffordshire nose.

with Nick
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Lead
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S

pleased to not get minced

with Roisin
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Jack93 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Was going well untill I got to the last ledge and my ropes somehow got tangled up in one of my cams and stuck! Had to untie and solo the last little bit...

ASchwirtz 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Rapidly lowed myself back onto ledge and shouted take, buy did not fall onto rope...... clean or not clean?? This climb is a proper fight!

Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd dog
Mark Warnett ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
morganator 26/May/14 2nd O/S
soph 26/May/14 Lead
Sam Watson 24/May/14 Lead dnf

Fell trying to exit the traverse and then the rain set in. Will return. Awesome climb.

with Angel Lago Rodriguez
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead β
David Sherratt 03/May/14 Lead
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead
bede.west 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
MSchobitz 29/Mar/14 Lead β

Pretty powerful moves through the roof and then a gnarly offwidth bit at the top

Tophe 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Ben Ochner
Matt Cooke 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Bullybones 26/Feb/14 -
eduardo ??/2014 AltLd O/S

Ca 2005.

with mike g
mikeski ??/2014 AltLd
with eduardo
jimxxx ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Jonathan Hall 04/Nov/13 2nd

Bleeping tough for all but the best offwidthers I fancy.

disturbed_one51 04/Nov/13 Lead
with Wee man
mat cooper 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
GeneralFifi 29/Sep/13 Lead dnf
mop449 29/Sep/13 Lead RP

Rested on the gear first time, figured out the crux on the second attempt.

perrys 27/Sep/13 2nd O/S
masa-alpin 27/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic climbing!

with Simon P
Kirill 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with EeFu
EeFu 14/Sep/13 2nd dog
anguskille 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S

learnt to jam finally! threw hands, fists and arms into the cracks, i suppose it's the best way to learn..

with Callum
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
Malcolm Bass 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Brown
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
adrianj 29/Jun/13 2nd
hellboundblr 29/Jun/13 Lead

Start of traverse a bit delicate. Then pleasant to the end of traverse where I got a half knee bar, which I held for ages, whilst placing a blind cam and trying to pluck up courage to move round and stand up. Once stood up, pulled bit of slack through to stop rope getting caught in cracks. Climbed first crack okay via layback. Feeling little smug having got so far without a scratch. Then got totally shredded on next proper crack as I squirmed and humped my way up through the rounded exit.

with Adrian Jones
Hidden 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Anna
TRFrost 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with D. Gledson
David_Gledson 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Tom
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 06/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Andy Peak 1 22/May/13 -

Harder than crack of gloom! But sweet

phil64 17/May/13 Lead rpt

takes no prisoners,,,,,,awesome

Steve Vincent 15/May/13 2nd
Snowbones 05/May/13 2nd β
with Cas
Caspian Johnson 05/May/13 Lead β

recruited to regain gear after a friend decked out from the lip

Hidden 02/May/13 2nd O/S
monsteratt 27/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Horribly brilliant! A lesson in not forgetting how hard climbs are that you've done already.

with Toby
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead RP
MichaelGallimore 07/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Used matts under the start. Fiddled a little green hex into first pocket which held fall. Strenuous and unique. Worth three stars!

with Ron Freefall
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hannes B 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with DebsB
dr_botnik 29/Mar/13 Lead RP

just did it for the mint top cracks which were as good as they looked. tough start and overhang.

j.buckley87 02/Mar/13 2nd dog
saffy ??/2013 -
pete87abs 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
will randall 18/Nov/12 Lead RP
with sarah
DJayB 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S
mark s 27/Oct/12 Lead

ive done easier e5's

with andi t
JBO 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

This is the kind of HVS that's actually too hard for E1, so they just leave it at HVS so people know they're in for a battle... found the traverse tough but straightforward, but I very nearly ran out of willpower on the offwidth, after a lot of thrutching!

centurion05 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ian Llewellyn
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Jack.H.92 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Jagger
nepsoi999 31/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with sophie
Rachel Slater 28/Jul/12 AltLd

Lead up to the offwidth no problem. Offwidth was then a nightmare so belayed Olli up, he brought trainers with him and put them on for the offwidth and cruised it.

Olli-C 28/Jul/12 AltLd dog

Interesting climb. Rachel cruised around to the ledge but struggled with the off width at the top, she made a belay and I brought trainers up, with a big struggle around the end of the undercuts. I struggled up the crack in approach shoes and by yanking on the rope.

demarcation86 27/Jul/12 Lead dnf
with Paul
Anthony Dixon 22/Jul/12 Lead
WillDoyle 11/Jul/12 Lead dnf
whitehouse_rhys 08/Jul/12 2nd O/S

really nice just wish id lead it now

with ben roe
BRoe 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S


tsl42 ?/Jul/12 2nd dnf
with Andy
deacondeacon 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 27/May/12 2nd O/S


with AUfton
steve2006 26/May/12 Lead rpt

First attempt I fell twice at the nose. I got a cut from a friend in the face. The next day I just used an arm/fist jam,its a tricky climb. I later got the ropes jamed in the crack! Although I lead it clean,I was not elegant or in control, I think the Mincer got the better of me.

Aufton 26/May/12 Lead rpt
with Mike Rigby
Nick Russell 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Really enjoyable climbing in the cracks at the top. And fun at the bottom too - 3*

mattshort 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Alan100 12/May/12 Lead

Fantastic route. Crux corner was interesting to work out with great protection. Didn't realise how much more climbing there would be afterwards tho. Loved the widening cracks - great fun even tho i lost a bit of skin.

Dibdawg 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Wot a great HVS... loads of staged battles.

Dean177 12/May/12 2nd O/S
climbinmunkey 05/May/12 Lead dog

Clean up to the top of the final crack then popped trying over the rounded finish. Was a bit slippery after the hail but fear my technique was the real problem. Unfortunately I crashed onto the ledge below and did some very loud swearing! Apologies to anyone present. Fell twice more before success; now itching to get back. Such a great climb.

with Helen
helenstuart 05/May/12 2nd dnf

Failed to mince!

with Mike
lukehodson 05/May/12 Lead rpt

Same as last time, was intending to do smear test but pussied out...

davespider ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
with mickey seule, jules mckim
tgeh 15/Apr/12 2nd rpt


with dan geh
Dan Geh 15/Apr/12 Lead rpt

got to be one of my favourite climbs

tgeh 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S

really good, easier than matinee

with Roxy, dan geh
Chris Sansum 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Great route! Undercut crack under roof was a bit damp and slopey at the start, but loved the whole route. Going to be back to lead it.

with Ramsey Villanueva
Dan Geh 25/Mar/12 Lead dog

Got minced! fell at nose as couldn't find the side-pull the first time. Absolutely loved the jamming crack and off-width at the top. Can't wait to get back on it.

with Roxy, Thomas Geh
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Will Hunt 26/Feb/12 2nd dog

All went well till the final offwidth.

with Jamie Sparkes
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
abtibbs ??/2012 2nd dog
with Al
nbotting ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
nickmattia 30/Nov/11 Lead
with Ben Rouse
Hidden 27/Nov/11 Lead dnf
cat22 05/Nov/11 2nd
with Mike
Mr. K 22/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Took a few attempts to work out the a non-fally offy sequence for the start, only to be shut down trying to monkey out to the bulge. Being tall a definite disadvantage!

with Nicola Holbrook, Lee Leatherbarrow
lost.arrow 16/Oct/11 -
with Stu Sherwood
Alex Winter 30/Sep/11 2nd β

Looks horribly awkward, but actually climbs nicely ... apart from the pull around the bulge.

Andrew Barker 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Si
johnnyboulton 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Simon Hills
Skell 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jules
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 20/Aug/11 Lead β

On Si's gear. Lovely gritstone battle. Hardest part's getting around the nose which felt tough at HVS.

with Si 2
marcduhig 07/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Did the hard bit but didn't like the top.

Martin Davies 02/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Shocking attempt! Rested on gear at the 'mincing' bit after missing crucial side pull. Then managed the first jamming section of three but the second looked horrendous! Gave a go but decided to call it a day. Can't jam! Hard for the tall (I'm 6'2"...) - that's my excuse!

with Tim Rogers
robman 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Mitch1990 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Great route, bold start, secret jamming/crimp hold as you pull around over and out of the roof. First crack scary jamming last crack nice laybacking followed by more jamming. What a route

williamsd79 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Lee Wales
darlolad ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Becca
BeccaSnowden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Start was very bold and quite hard. Loved the sideways undercutting moves! Started raining so the top wide crack was a bit of a slippery struggle! Very pleased to get it.

richardr 07/Jun/11 Lead β

As far as Smear test ledge.

TerryLines 06/Jun/11 Lead
pipof747 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Phil PBC ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with henry castle
mcglenr25 25/Apr/11 2nd dnf

Great route, very pumpy and awkward though, just couldn't pull past the nose :( Next time!

MarkRoe 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

The Crux is brilliant and desperate fun! I was very pleased for the chockstone in the second top jamming crack as fist jams arn't my forte.

sam corbett 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Horrific rope drag at the top crack made for scary times, never had to will my way up a route quite like this before!

with Alistair Corbett
Alistair Corbett 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

great until the tope crack, The names very fitting!

with ben peake, sam corbett
pldarch 17/Apr/11 2nd dog
sambosanquet101 17/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
sara n 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Horrid start!

with Neal Jobling
JRae 19/Mar/11 AltLd dnf

Close. I'll be back!

chrism225 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Epic... got scared came down, jonny got to the end of traverese, came down. I went back up with the first clip clipped, did traverse almost fell off, hand fell on crimp which saved me. On the jamming cracks, one of my double ropes got jammed so had to untie halfway through the jam!

with jonny
Hidden ??/2011 -
chris fox ??/2011 2nd β
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
HowieB ??/2011 2nd
ndraper1 ??/2011 Lead dnf

A burly climb that my guns couldn't muster enough strength to finish the final off width(might have hit the ledge a few times). A revisit in a pair of tough jeans is a must for me to be happy in life.

Hidden ??/2011 2nd dog
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
TheKing 25/Oct/10 2nd

should have lead this!

GF 17/Oct/10 2nd
Rick Ashton 09/Oct/10 Lead dnf
with andy gibb
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Oct/10 2nd β
Chi Cheng 16/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Bottom 3/4 were amazing. top Off width (for me) crack was awful.

dprctr 09/Sep/10 2nd dog

Seconded after attempting a lead, perverse and painful, didnt understand how climb the last two cracks. Tough but reasonably safe.

with Alex Blaza
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
DaNo123 10/Jul/10 2nd dnf
with martin
Hidden 25/Jun/10 2nd
miro 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
i_a_coops ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Joe
tomB 22/May/10 2nd O/S
with Tim Griffin
Graeme Hammond 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Wicked end to the day, wanted to do this for ages :D Somehow got one rope suck behind a cam just before the off width crack but luckily being on the big ledge I untied and abandoned it no hassle.

Garron 15/May/10 Lead O/S
John Pickles 07/May/10 2nd
with Graham Niven, Kieran Hodgson
lukehodson 02/May/10 Lead O/S

Direct start - was aiming to do smear test but bottled it, so finished up the mincer

ig248 01/May/10 Lead dog
with Kane
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
DafSWMC 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Gareth
gejones 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Classic gritstone, fabulous.

with DafSWMC, Sean
Hidden 13/Apr/10 2nd
jkarran 04/Apr/10 2nd dog

Cocked up the traverse, fell below the roof. Annoying and painful

with Matt
mattyork2 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
CMoore 14/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
clair.fowler ??/2010 2nd
keith leonard ??/2010 Lead
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Drew M ??/2010 Lead
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden 30/Oct/09 Lead
Jack Loftus 30/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Nick
belay bunny turned bad 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
PeteH 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
ndp 15/Sep/09 2nd
joese7en ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
esther ?/Sep/09 2nd
flyboy86 29/Aug/09 Lead
with Nick Kennedy
Hidden 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
vanderz 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Stuart Wildman 02/Aug/09 Lead dog

The Mincer is a good name for it. Struggled round the corner, then removed skin from both hands and arms. My advice layback up the upper crack, but don't be too shy to wedge a foot in the crack as it starts to curve over...

with Jon Tan
Hidden 03/Jun/09 Lead
willoates ?/Jun/09 Lead dog

fell a few times bulling round from the overhang

monsteratt 31/May/09 2nd O/S
with Andy Abe and & Co
nickwhimster 31/May/09 Lead dog

fell off going round corner, did it second time

with monty
Hidden 30/May/09 2nd
Ian Andrews 09/May/09 2nd
Glyn Davidson 09/May/09 Lead dog

I found this route bloody hard! A great demonstration of the fact that I need to practice jamming. I got up it somehow but any style was left on the ground. I got to the top saying to myself, "That was horrible, but bloody fantastic". It was great fun to come face to face with a problem and just have no idea as to how to overcome it.

Elsier 02/May/09 2nd
with Ian, Stuart
mic_b 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Hard work!

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 18/Apr/09 2nd rpt
adrianjenner 18/Apr/09 Lead

Attempted Smear Test but backed off due to lack of testicles

Steerpike 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Huw Tom
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 12/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with michael porter
NDD 04/Apr/09 Lead
thomasadixon 29/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Absolutely brilliant route.

with Alan
Reaver2k 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
EmmanuelF 22/Mar/09 2nd rpt


with arnaud
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead dnf
Lunar25 ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Rich Till
Andrew Abraham ??/2009 2nd O/S

Nick Whimster led it, a good one to get in a fight with!

benkelsey ??/2009 2nd dnf

problem with rope work

sgl0jd ??/2009 -
barni 01/Dec/08 2nd rpt
with Phill dowthwaite
tumbling wizard ?/Nov/08 -
Hidden 06/Oct/08 2nd
PenJD 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Loved it.

with Heather Swift
mel holmes 14/Sep/08 2nd
Bristoldave 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Jonathan
pottsworth 24/Aug/08 2nd

Foot poped as I was rounding the bulge, so had to get the prussiks out to get back on. Interesting route, fairly full on

with Jonny
Hidden 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
highclimber ?/Aug/08 -
dannyboy83 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/08 Lead
jamesgodwin64 ?/Jul/08 Lead dnf

freaked out on the second trav. overhang and didnt finish

Ian Broome 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S

hard off width cracks at the top.

Chad123 15/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Bit of a two day, siege tactic epic! Emily tried it lots of times before I went up and put in the first gear for her. She then grovelled up most of it, before belaying below the off width at the top, which I enjoyed leading. Overall pretty full value for HVS - a new UK's toughest I reckon!

with Emily
Phil Jennings 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Kieran Leary, Outdoor ED
The Bad Cough 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Lee Bonner
DanT 07/Jun/08 2nd dnf
steveP 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Difficult start. The undercling wasn't too bad but it's tricky getting up and established in the off-width crack. Not for those with long legs.

with Dan Towns
Mike W ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Hardest HVS I ever managed to get up! Good retrospective fun.

with annette
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
kingholmesy ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Brian
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
dycotiles 04/Nov/07 Lead β

Nice. A bit of an airy start. HVS 5b spot on grade. The 5b is for the bouldery start only though. The moves around the corner are awkward, probably easier wihtout a helmet!

with Alex
Hidden 03/Nov/07 Lead dnf
Lawrence Eccles ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with A. Crook
mark s 29/Sep/07 Lead
with andi t
Hidden 13/Sep/07 Lead dnf
djking1983 13/Sep/07 Lead dnf
tonanf 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with burt
jonnyboy 22/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/07 Lead O/S
jchenoweth 04/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Dunc
Geras 29/Jul/07 2nd

found this difficult to get of the ground to start. POT lead, after kai backed off and I initial failed the first moves. On 2nd found the squence and climbed it clean, liked the traverse out, best done as an undercling.

with Paul O-T
psychicbread 12/Jun/07 2nd dog
with Max and Paul
tatz45 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
AngelaC 06/May/07 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/07 2nd O/S
deanroberts 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S

nice pumpy route..... i barn-doored round the corner, and the jamming up from there is just exhilarating!

Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead
joe larner 13/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Fantastic fun really enjoyed it,Got well minced!! Dont wear shorts

with pete miles
Alex Mason 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Same experience as nick smith. desparate. E1 in anyones book. had a look at smear test unfortunately failed.

Steve Waters, Mynydd 01/Apr/07 2nd dnf

Made it to the corner, but couldn't get enough purchase with the feet to push round and up!

with Martin Kocsis
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd
Chesh 25/Mar/07 2nd

Tom lead to below top crack. We both had a go at Smear Test.

with Tom
Mr Wild 25/Mar/07 Lead rpt
with chesh
Andrew Sloan 09/Mar/07 Lead rpt
with Steve Grove
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
barni ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Crhis zion
The old James turnbull ??/2007 -
Nicos 19/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Alex@home ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S

great climb. loved everything about it

with nicos
Matt Shepherd 10/Oct/06 Lead O/S
northy1983 ?/Oct/06 Lead

very good classic

with dom
Hidden 01/Sep/06 2nd O/S
orb 25/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Mojo
Mr Wild 07/Aug/06 Lead β

Real hard route this one, though a good way to learn to jam (quickly learn)

with vics
Hidden 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 09/Jul/06 AltLd dnf

Tried this a few times over the years, but I've never got past the bouldery start

with Angus McLean
AJ007 25/Jun/06 Lead dnf
with Brian
AJ007 25/Jun/06 Lead dnf
with Brian
DavidR 24/Jun/06 2nd β
with Steve Mead
gregoritos ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with John Hall
Stig 30/May/06 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 25/May/06 Lead O/S
reg_measures 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with James Wade
dan gibson ??/2006 -
SteveM ??/2006 Lead
datoon 04/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with RT
frost ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with D Garry
mux ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Simon Frost ,
LoopyLou ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Mike Peak
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
mark s ??/2005 -
Rob Kinsey ??/2005 Lead
with JamesR
jimshrimp 06/Sep/04 Lead O/S

This was my first round with the Mincer, and at 6ft 2, expected problems. All went really well, worth persevering for the amazing upper jamming/layback cracks. Attempted the route again several years later, pumped after numerous tries on the bouldery start. Couldn't work out turning the corner, and took my first lead fall onto gear. Ran away licking my wounds and cursing the intervening years of Export drinking. I shall return.

Owen W-G 29/Aug/04 2nd dog

Complete nightmare to second for a grit novice, finished demoralised. Lanky climbers at a disadvantage.

with Andy
chris sm 11/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
cem 23/May/04 2nd
Andy Barwell ?/May/04 Lead
Brown 07/Mar/04 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ??/2004 Lead
feilx ??/2004 -
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead
Dave Bond 03/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Hatton
Mark Stevenson 13/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Gemma
Laramadness 19/Jun/03 Lead dnf
Rob Davies 01/Jun/03 Lead dnf

Another failed attempt

with David Kinniburgh
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/May/03 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
soph ??/2003 -
shoulders 14/Sep/02 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/02 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/02 Lead dnf
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/02 -
andybirtwistle 06/May/02 Lead O/S
Gus ??/2002 -
Hidden 14/Jan/01 2nd
petekeron ??/2001 Lead O/S
Strong Steve 10/Jun/00 Lead O/S
philhilo ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/99 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/98 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 24/Apr/98 -
sadams 11/Oct/97 Lead
with Hugh Cottom
Hidden 21/Sep/97 Lead O/S
uphillnow 22/May/97 Lead O/S

One of Johns earlier climbs

with John Hubbard
Hidden ?/May/97 2nd
craig h 06/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Jim Mellor
SR1970 ?/Mar/97 Lead O/S
D Tempest 08/Sep/96 Lead

As an escape from Smear Test E3 6a - total failure.

with Rick
roncaves 02/Jun/96 2nd
with Gavin Williams
phardman 12/May/96 2nd
with Jon Bibby
WB ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Guy
robtrooper ??/1996 -
ste_d 12/May/95 2nd O/S
with mik
nige ??/1995 Lead
with john buckley
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden 30/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 08/Jun/94 -
with Jerry Evans
Tim Sparrow ??/1994 2nd
with Chris D
Hidden 22/Jun/93 Lead
Hidden 22/May/93 Lead
OMSKB 28/Mar/93 2nd
Roget 10/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with baccy
The Reaper 05/Sep/91 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1991 -
Hidden ??/1991 -
crossleysm ??/1991 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
Sean Kelly ?/Sep/89 Lead
with Alan Payne
Hidden 07/May/89 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/89 -
Stoney Boy 11/Jun/88 2nd O/S
with Gareth James
goi.ashmore 04/Apr/88 Lead O/S
with Rob Scott
Neil R 08/Sep/87 Lead
with Richard W
RichardMc 27/Jul/86 Lead O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
charlesmfrench 08/Jun/85 Lead O/S
Brian Wilderspin 17/Apr/85 -
with Stan Vick
SB_NWUK_99 ??/1985 Lead O/S

Lead in (approx.) 1985. A great HVS.

John Marsland 25/Nov/84 Lead
with Dave Mould
andy gittins ??/1984 -
stp 08/Jun/83 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/82 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/82 -
Hidden 12/Jun/81 2nd
Hidden 15/Feb/81 2nd
nbotting ??/1981 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/80 Lead
Nigel Bond 05/Apr/80 Lead
with Mark Dixon
Andy Fielding ??/1980 Lead
with Mike Gilbert
Andy Nicholson ?/Aug/78 2nd O/S
with Steve Andrews
Dave Musgrove 12/Mar/77 Lead
with Bob Knapton
clanger ??/1972 -
Seymore Butt ??/1970 2nd
with Breezy
mikej 16/Jul/69 Lead dnf
with Brian Hill
oldmanofmow ??/1957 -

With Colin Mortlock and two of his pupils, one of whom soloed it in normal shoes before we saw him. He got to the ledge at bottom of crack. I ran round to drop a top rope while Colin stood underneath to catch him!!!

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 114
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 107
Votes cast 109
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set