28m.

Rockfax Description
28m. A long and elegant pitch up the steep jamming cracks in the arete. Climb the crack and the bulges to a rest at the base of the flake on the regular climb. Finish as for the normal route, or via the tricky bulging short-cut crack just right of the arete. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans (The Dream Team) 1951

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Roaches HVS Challenge, The V.S.+ Ticklist, Michelle's crack ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Smelly Fox 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Quality route! Neither of the hard sections are more than 5b if you can jam. There are harder HVS's at the roaches but this is still no soft touch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quality route! Neither of the hard sections are more than 5b if you can jam. There are harder HVS's at the roaches but this is still no soft touch!
daveagriff 14 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I did it about 15 years ago and went straight up the bulging crack. I thought about 5b as that was my top grade and it was a bit of a fight. Gear ok if I recall correctly
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I did it about 15 years ago and went straight up the bulging crack. I thought about 5b as that was my top grade and it was a bit of a fight. Gear ok if I recall correctly
UKB Shark 25 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The new BMC guide shows this route finishing up a wide crack just above the Valkyrie (normale) crux which I found desperate and surely not HVS ( I am ashamed to say I pulled on a piece of gear) Which is the right way to go?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The new BMC guide shows this route finishing up a wide crack just above the Valkyrie (normale) crux which I found desperate and surely not HVS ( I am ashamed to say I pulled on a piece of gear) Which is the right way to go?
mark s 1 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: the crux is safe(vs)not much harder than valkyrie(5a)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the crux is safe(vs)not much harder than valkyrie(5a)
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Ilia Nadyrbayev 30 Jun 2nd O/S
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 30 Jun Lead didn't save any large cams for the offwidth finish, so decided against it and finished up the via normale
didn't save any large cams for the offwidth finish, so decided against it and finished up the via normale
Hidden 19 May Lead O/S
JayAyBee 15 May Lead O/S Top crack was nails so I went round. Would like to go back with a massive cam.
with Dan
Top crack was nails so I went round. Would like to go back with a massive cam.
with Dan
Mark Warnett ?May Lead O/S tough as you'd expect, the jam moves feel impossible to start but a bit higher with each go and it unlocks. think i missed the top crack by going up normal valkyrie
with Andy O'Conner
tough as you'd expect, the jam moves feel impossible to start but a bit higher with each go and it unlocks. think i missed the top crack by going up normal valkyrie
with Andy O'Conner
richsmithinbristol 9 Apr Lead
pearson9596 9 Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 24 Feb 2nd
plant_based_tommo 24 Feb 2nd β
with Rob tree
with Rob tree
JendeHoxar 1 Jan 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 1 Jan Lead rpt
Heather Osborne 10 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S
with Alec
with Alec
sassan 2 Sep, 2018 2nd dnf What a climb. RIP to the lost cam and new sling draw. I'll be back, need to beat Neil's 12 year battle.
What a climb. RIP to the lost cam and new sling draw. I'll be back, need to beat Neil's 12 year battle.
neilmackie 2 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt
with sassan
with sassan
mBob8 7 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 8 Jun, 2018 2nd dog
Hidden 11 May, 2018 2nd dog
takaczapka 11 May, 2018 Lead
with JerDon
with JerDon
jontydlh 11 Mar, 2018 2nd dog
Rob Knowles 11 Mar, 2018 Lead dog Found the move to get into the valkyrie flake really hard, fell a few times there.
with Jonty
Found the move to get into the valkyrie flake really hard, fell a few times there.
with Jonty
Hidden 4 Aug, 2017 2nd
Mark Stevenson 26 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
philhilo 26 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
crossleysm 23 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt
with Derek Woo
with Derek Woo
derekwwl 23 Apr, 2017 2nd dnf escaped left of belay block ,after mini roof
escaped left of belay block ,after mini roof
Hidden 23 Apr, 2017 2nd
Andrew Abraham 6 Apr, 2017 2nd rpt
with Mike W
with Mike W
Mike W 6 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt
Ids1165 ??, 2017 Lead
Hidden 17 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
tgeh 5 Oct, 2016 2nd
with Dan Geh
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 5 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with tgeh
with tgeh
D.Russell 21 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 17 Sep, 2016 2nd dog Tried the lead first but slowly toppled out of the offwidth that Jake laybacked leaving a chunk of my fingernail in the route. Still struggled on second.
with JakeB.
Tried the lead first but slowly toppled out of the offwidth that Jake laybacked leaving a chunk of my fingernail in the route. Still struggled on second.
with JakeB.
Dale Comley 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Ollie Torr
with Ollie Torr
Hidden 30 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Ciderslider 17 Apr, 2016 2nd dog Absolutely seiged this - great lead by Charley
with charley
Absolutely seiged this - great lead by Charley
with charley
charley 17 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Brilliant climb but knackering. Didn't like the polished start. Thought the crux would be getting around the roof but that final short off-width was a bloody struggle (literally - lost some skin from my hands and ankle and covered most my gear in blood).
Brilliant climb but knackering. Didn't like the polished start. Thought the crux would be getting around the roof but that final short off-width was a bloody struggle (literally - lost some skin from my hands and ankle and covered most my gear in blood).
Andrew Abraham 12 Apr, 2016 Lead dog
with Mike W
with Mike W
SarahConnor ?Feb, 2016 2nd
Louishmouis 31 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Dad
with Dad
lanky and weak 30 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Flavio 7 Jun, 2015 2nd Roaches HVS Challenge #7
Roaches HVS Challenge #7
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 26 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with noaks
with noaks
James Oakes 26 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 25 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Much better than valkyrie more moves more interst more intense
Much better than valkyrie more moves more interst more intense
Seymore Butt ??, 2015 Lead
thomas108 ??, 2015 Lead G/U
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead
jimxxx ??, 2015 -
robman 25 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
soph 23 Jul, 2014 2nd
with Lindy Smith
with Lindy Smith
Alex Winter 21 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S 17 on Staffordshire nose. Cramps in forearms. Got on board lots of nosh and water at the bottom.
with Nick
17 on Staffordshire nose. Cramps in forearms. Got on board lots of nosh and water at the bottom.
with Nick
Nick Russell 21 Jul, 2014 2nd 17/31. How can 3m of wide crack be such a brutal struggle?
17/31. How can 3m of wide crack be such a brutal struggle?
dan gibson 29 Jun, 2014 -
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 2nd rpt
morganator 26 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with soph
with soph
Hidden 14 May, 2014 2nd rpt
friendzone1234 ?May, 2014 Lead dog unexpected crux on the bulging width, fell on size 4 cam
unexpected crux on the bulging width, fell on size 4 cam
soph 29 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
with Lindy Smith
with Lindy Smith
Hidden 13 Mar, 2014 Lead
Dale ?Mar, 2014 Lead O/S A very good route with good 5b moves threw the roof.
A very good route with good 5b moves threw the roof.
BareBears ?Mar, 2014 2nd
with Dale
with Dale
Hidden ??, 2014 -
dtbrad 21 Oct, 2013 TR dnf Came to climb but couldn't due to the wet weather, will be returning to finish in better weather
with George 'Spigz' Duggan, Oliver 'Pinkus' Marcs, Joe Strutt
Came to climb but couldn't due to the wet weather, will be returning to finish in better weather
with George 'Spigz' Duggan, Oliver 'Pinkus' Marcs, Joe Strutt
Joe Strutt 21 Oct, 2013 TR
with dtbrad
with dtbrad
Dingchav 21 Oct, 2013 TR
with dtbrad
with dtbrad
Bloke on a Rope 3 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Top class climbing! watch that top crack though it bites!
Top class climbing! watch that top crack though it bites!
Hidden 3 Sep, 2013 2nd β
rlrs 9 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf
Antony Mariani 9 Aug, 2013 2nd dnf
with rlrs
with rlrs
andi turner 22 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
with pete bridgwood
Mike W 16 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 16 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with annaEM
with annaEM
Ky 7 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S Rewarding fun!
with Andi Turner
Rewarding fun!
with Andi Turner
Nickc ??, 2013 -
northy1983 ??, 2013 Lead good
with andi t
good
with andi t
Graeme Hammond 21 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S top crack after the crux of Valkyrie was the hardest bit. Stunning route :)
top crack after the crux of Valkyrie was the hardest bit. Stunning route :)
Brown 22 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Andy R
with Andy R
Liam_T 22 May, 2012 2nd
Hidden 22 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Stuart William 11 Mar, 2012 2nd dog
with Matt Reynolds
with Matt Reynolds
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
stephenhartley 27 Sep, 2011 2nd
CurlyStevo ?Aug, 2011 Lead yoyoed up to the first overhang rearranged gear and runners and eventually lead through, which was my hardest grit lead sequence to date, avoided the offwidth after this as running short on time. Intend to properly lead the whole route at some stage! Atleast HVS 5a through the first overhang IMO.
yoyoed up to the first overhang rearranged gear and runners and eventually lead through, which was my hardest grit lead sequence to date, avoided the offwidth after this as running short on time. Intend to properly lead the whole route at some stage! Atleast HVS 5a through the first overhang IMO.
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
John Mckeating ??, 2011 -
Abevan 24 Oct, 2010 2nd
with james walker
with james walker
PeteH 10 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
NaomiHart 10 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S
with PeteH
with PeteH
Hidden 24 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
LittleClimbingMaria 28 Jun, 2010 -
manwithacam 19 Apr, 2010 Lead was so psyched up after doing the crux lower down I started to climb the flake of the original in reverse! Traversed round to front of buttress which I think now is not the route. All a bit scrappy, last climb of day.
with Joris
was so psyched up after doing the crux lower down I started to climb the flake of the original in reverse! Traversed round to front of buttress which I think now is not the route. All a bit scrappy, last climb of day.
with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 18 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
drcorbasisgod 18 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
CMoore 14 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
Drew M ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden ??, 2010 -
philw ??, 2010 -
Ken Taylor ??, 2010 -
Mike_Gannon 30 Oct, 2009 Lead dnf led the first 5m or so with confidence, then got couldn't get over the crux below the belay platform.
led the first 5m or so with confidence, then got couldn't get over the crux below the belay platform.
colina 9 May, 2009 2nd dnf bad arm over weekend which spoiled attempt ,got stuck on first crux going onto flake,just didnt have the power captin,,couldnt get some gear out so abseiled down from top which was my first proper abseil and not the best one to do as quite a bit exposed,bloody scary too, ended up going thru hollybush...gave some onlookers a laugh though !
with phil
bad arm over weekend which spoiled attempt ,got stuck on first crux going onto flake,just didnt have the power captin,,couldnt get some gear out so abseiled down from top which was my first proper abseil and not the best one to do as quite a bit exposed,bloody scary too, ended up going thru hollybush...gave some onlookers a laugh though !
with phil
Mr Wild ?May, 2009 Lead O/S
JCB42 31 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S A bloody hand-jamming epic! Still awesome though!
with Tom Lister
A bloody hand-jamming epic! Still awesome though!
with Tom Lister
tom.ireson 14 Mar, 2009 Lead dog Had a real epic, lots of wind and a real battle to get up. Had to rest on gear a good few times. Great climb though, would like to try it on a calmer day.
with Lech Wojas
Had a real epic, lots of wind and a real battle to get up. Had to rest on gear a good few times. Great climb though, would like to try it on a calmer day.
with Lech Wojas
Hidden 7 Mar, 2009 2nd O/S
Pete Wimbush ?Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with Chris Hindley
with Chris Hindley
tomparrott 24 Aug, 2008 Lead
deejmonkey 24 Aug, 2008 2nd
Andy Nicholson ?Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
Tom Eagle 5 May, 2008 2nd dog
with Alban
with Alban
Jon Read 8 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S Cold.
with Sarah Clough
Cold.
with Sarah Clough
goi.ashmore 9 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
with James Rees
with James Rees
Stig 9 Feb, 2008 2nd O/S
with Goi
with Goi
Hidden ??, 2008 -
TCHEKE ??, 2008 -
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
Circus 11 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S OUCH!
OUCH!
Dr Caterpillar 11 Nov, 2007 2nd dog slipped of the polish at the start. Did the crux clean. FUN!
with Circus
slipped of the polish at the start. Did the crux clean. FUN!
with Circus
mark s 29 Sep, 2007 Lead
with andi t
with andi t
Smudge03 13 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
djking1983 13 Sep, 2007 2nd
Hidden 21 Apr, 2007 Lead
Mutl3y 21 Apr, 2007 2nd dog This was the direct direct, not the direct start/indirect. Don Whillans RIP
with TonyM
This was the direct direct, not the direct start/indirect. Don Whillans RIP
with TonyM
neilmackie 28 Mar, 2007 Lead dnf
climbingpixie 7 Feb, 2007 Lead dnf Ow! A nice enough route until the heinous offwidthy bit at the top. I lost blood and sweat before finally admitting defeat and being lowered off through the hollybush :(
with Shaun
Ow! A nice enough route until the heinous offwidthy bit at the top. I lost blood and sweat before finally admitting defeat and being lowered off through the hollybush :(
with Shaun
Si dH 4 Feb, 2007 2nd dog Pathetic attempt. Got my hands mixed up and had to have a rest mid-crux. Also neither of us did the top crack above the Valkyrie crux - it was desperate.
with Neil Furniss
Pathetic attempt. Got my hands mixed up and had to have a rest mid-crux. Also neither of us did the top crack above the Valkyrie crux - it was desperate.
with Neil Furniss
Skell ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with Sian
with Sian
dan gibson 8 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
with AJ
with AJ
AJ007 7 Oct, 2006 2nd
bigie bob 8 Aug, 2006 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2006 2nd
givemetea ?Jul, 2006 AltLd dnf
with Tony Yates and Rich Bartlett
with Tony Yates and Rich Bartlett
Lawrence Eccles ??, 2006 2nd O/S
with A. Crook
with A. Crook
Neil McA 13 Nov, 2005 Lead O/S Good value. Did Mincer afterwards, a fine couple of levelers!
with martin cooper
Good value. Did Mincer afterwards, a fine couple of levelers!
with martin cooper
Hidden 3 Sep, 2005 2nd
Smelly Fox 3 May, 2005 Lead G/U Lost some skin on the desperate top crack!
with Rob Clifton
Lost some skin on the desperate top crack!
with Rob Clifton
Hidden ??, 2005 -
mark s ??, 2005 -
Hidden 27 Jun, 2004 Lead
Hidden 13 Sep, 2003 Lead
unfit ??, 2003 Lead
simon kimber ?Nov, 2002 Lead O/S first route on grit!
with Nigel Kitney
first route on grit!
with Nigel Kitney
five 16 Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
with MS
with MS
DubyaJamesDubya ?Jul, 2002 Lead O/S Led in error, mistaking it for the original.
Led in error, mistaking it for the original.
Gus ??, 2002 -
Hidden 14 Jan, 2001 Lead
hdog76 ??, 2000 -
Tarquin ??, 1999 2nd
Russell Flynn ??, 1999 TR
Hidden 10 May, 1998 Lead O/S
robtrooper ??, 1996 -
Brian Wilderspin 23 Jun, 1993 -
with Tony Clifford
with Tony Clifford
KillingtonT 18 Aug, 1992 AltLd
with Mark Drinkwater
with Mark Drinkwater
Hidden 18 Jul, 1992 2nd
crossleysm ??, 1992 Lead O/S
The Reaper 5 Sep, 1991 Lead O/S
pauldrew ??, 1991 2nd
Hidden 26 Aug, 1990 Lead
Roget 9 Jul, 1989 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
wynaptomos ?Feb, 1989 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1983 Lead O/S
stp 16 Aug, 1981 Lead O/S Got stuck in the flake for a while.
Got stuck in the flake for a while.
Chris Terrey 20 Jun, 1981 Lead
with Gerry Dunford
with Gerry Dunford
Mark Kemball ??, 1977 2nd
rogerskews ??, 1974 AltLd
with Dane Atkins
with Dane Atkins
oldmanofmow ??, 1961 2nd Dave Price led and I got a nice cinefilm of him
Dave Price led and I got a nice cinefilm of him
56 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 41
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set