Rockfax Description
24m. The lower crack is almost always damp and usually smelly. Ignore this fact and jam up it to a (possible) stance on the giant flake. The continuation is awkward, especially the fist-grinding belly-flop into the wider finishing section. © Rockfax

FA. Brown and Whillans 1951, named after the astounded 2000

Ticklists: BMC On-Peak Rock: Jamming tests, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Roaches HVS Challenge, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Andrew171 02/Sep 2nd
with Blake
Hidden 02/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug AltLd O/S
James S 27/May Lead O/S
with melty
Ky 22/May Lead O/S
with Pete Bridgewood
Chriswallis2 02/May Lead O/S
with Mike W
Cole Robertson 29/Apr Lead O/S

Doesn't give HVS away...

Hidden 23/Apr Lead O/S
Alex@home 22/Apr 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
Alex Hyde 06/Apr Lead dog

Really intense and pumpy, had to dog, use it as a direct route for valkarie

with Sam
Mike W 05/Apr Lead rpt
Andrew Abraham 05/Apr 2nd rpt
Melonfly ?/Apr 2nd dog

Really rainy last move found pretty tough, just missed getting clean

with James
Rob Kinsey ?/Apr AltLd
with JamesR
ferdia 26/Mar Lead O/S
Jmpollard 05/Feb Lead O/S

Bit of a fight at the top! Solid introduction to trad for alex too

misterb 27/Jan 2nd

iced up jams.nice

with tom
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 26/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
annep11 26/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 21/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead dog
Wendy Watthews 17/Sep/16 2nd dog

Done as two pitches. Struggled right at the top.

with JakeB.
Dale Comley 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ollie Torr
penny.orr 31/Jul/16 2nd

Fun, but a bit on the grovely side (just at the top).

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Great pitch

Markheighton 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
georgenvk 08/May/16 2nd dog
with Hrb
Jan.Hrb 08/May/16 Lead O/S
with George
Jim Slater 17/Apr/16 Lead rpt

The crack was slimy but drier enough in the right places, great climb, top out move is a bit desperate.

with Maia
Hidden 17/Apr/16 2nd dnf
Andrew Abraham 01/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Great lead, and great route. Some great holds and rest positions, but I was in agony with cold hands, definitely a summer route!

nickwhimster 01/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Manc88 01/Apr/16 2nd dnf
Mike505 01/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Lost steam on the last move!!

codenamel 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S

An absolute struggle. Glad I managed it.

Jay Schofield 19/Mar/16 2nd dog

Hard slippery jams!

with Luke Weaver
KeenClimber 28/Feb/16 Lead
with Jim
jimxxx 28/Feb/16 2nd
phil64 ??/2016 Lead
with various
Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Oct/15 2nd dnf
FlavioL1989 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #10

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 2nd

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio! Got a nerve trapped moving through the crux jam and felt a searing electric pain shoot down my arm. Its still tingling now 4 days later.

with Flavio
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd dnf
Graeme Hammond 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Un-seconded but thanks to Bex for the belay. Excellent, a little bit green on one section but at least it was mainly dry, done in one pitch. 3 star stuff :)

with Becky E
James Oakes 26/May/15 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 Lead O/S

hard climb followed by terrible rope jam/drag. not good for morale

with noaks
Tim Rodgers 25/Apr/15 Lead
robertmichaellovell 25/Apr/15 2nd

not enough concentration on the jams at the top, resulting in sloper desperation

with Tim
PaulTanton 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Mark led the first pitch. Wet and green. I did the top. It's a belly flop but the jams are good.

The Grist 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Andy Peak 1 25/Mar/15 Lead O/S


Mike W ??/2015 Lead
saffy ??/2015 Lead
rurp 14/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Awesome slime attack. At least it warmed us up

with bill farmer
poeter210 05/Oct/14 Lead dnf
with argentinian machine
jiles 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
andy_e 06/Sep/14 2nd dog
with Mike Gallimore
Brannock 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Pure quality, old school jamming, not to slimey, sloping mantle top out keeps the interest to the end.

soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 2nd

21/31. The 'beached whale' move isn't even the hardest bit.

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 Lead rpt

21 on Staffordshire nose.

with Nick
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
08nbrierley 28/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Just First pitch

with jamie
MichaelGallimore 01/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Slipped off the first move and landed down in the cave on rope stretech Got back on and climbed clean, concentrating a little more this time. first pitch was damp, last pitch a battle. Brilliant.

with Ian crook
morganator 26/May/14 Lead O/S
soph 26/May/14 2nd
Hidden 21/May/14 Lead dog
Tala A 18/May/14 2nd O/S
David Sherratt 03/May/14 2nd
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead dog
soph 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
switch 09/Mar/14 2nd rpt

top pitch, via Valkyrie p1

with James
Tophe 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Dan
dannyboy83 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S


sev 16/Feb/14 2nd β

first proper jamming crack. The crux was the slime at the bottom!

IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
jimxxx ??/2014 -
georgeevans88 24/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Actually a really good route and not just a battle like I was expecting. Found the off-width just before the half way rest the crux.

Alex Winter 24/Nov/13 Lead

Quality. Had fallen off this years ago in the snow. Drier today, although still a bit slimy in places.

with George
Kirill 14/Sep/13 Lead dog

Fell from the top. So close!

with EeFu
EeFu 14/Sep/13 2nd dog
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd dog
wolf.leeb 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S

3 star fist fight wen dry.. Probably..

with hosey
Hidden 27/Jul/13 2nd
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
augustus trout 04/Jun/13 2nd
Mike W 04/Jun/13 Lead dog
Mark Stevenson 27/May/13 AltLd rpt
Tony Holdsworth 05/May/13 Lead dog

Rested twice - once on the lower pitch and once on the top.

with Nick Mitchell
Hidden 02/May/13 AltLd O/S
simeclimb68 29/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Rob Mirfin
Nickc ??/2013 -
northy1983 ?/Aug/12 2nd


with andi t
monsteratt 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

All in one. Very green and slimy low down, but loved it anyway. Upper bulge felt pretty grovelly as expected. V enjoyable all round!

with Jess
Jessica Taylor ?/Jul/12 2nd dog

slimiest crack ever, shoulder deep slime crack. yummy

WillDoyle 21/Jun/12 Lead dnf
tgeh 25/Mar/12 Lead dog

One fall at the top-out, absolutely amazing just keeps on giving, filthy awkward jamming followed by a bellyflop rounded top-out with only thin slippery jams and no feet, a must do route.

with Roxy, dan geh
Dan Geh 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S

What a beast of a climb! The dirt just makes it!

with Roxy, Thomas Geh
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Spanner 02/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead
Phil PBC ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with henry castle
phil.cheeseman 06/May/11 Lead O/S
pldarch 17/Apr/11 2nd dog
sambosanquet101 17/Apr/11 Lead
keith leonard ??/2011 -
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
highlux 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S

As classic as it gets.

jamesgodwin64 20/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with chris fox
metal arms 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 - Kate finished up crux pitch of Valkyrie

al99 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Great route from the great man himself, pretty traditional.

Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd
Mr Wild ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
gregoritos 15/Jul/10 Lead


Hidden 11/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 2nd
DavidR 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Brutal but brilliant. Absolutely loved this! (Led in one pitch.)

Shorty83 02/Jul/10 2nd dnf
with Giles
Gigga ?/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with Nick
LittleClimbingMaria 28/Jun/10 -
jacobjacob 09/May/10 Lead O/S

truly horrific, a traditional HVS sandbag (its actually probably worth about E5...)

ig248 01/May/10 2nd
with Kane
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden 18/Oct/09 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S
mattcyp88 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd
Mr. K 10/Sep/09 Lead dnf
datoon 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with K
Andrew Sloan 19/Apr/09 Lead dog
Si dH 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch, Neil led second. Awesome. proper 'traditional' HVS. Crack was wet and full of moss - if anythign made it better, more of a challenge :)

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
keith leonard ??/2009 -
sgl0jd ??/2009 -
tumbling wizard ?/Nov/08 -
Somerset swede basher 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Pouring with rain, found top bit quite hard.

with Jessica Garland
Jim Slater 10/Aug/08 2nd dog
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
TCHEKE ??/2008 -
shoulders 08/Sep/07 Lead
Simon Holden (LCandCC) 12/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Matt Gordon
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
davek 21/Mar/07 2nd

Only seconding but the hardest climb I ever tried. Sustained and tiring

with Shaun L
climbingpixie 07/Feb/07 2nd dog
with Shaun
Duncan I ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Birdo ??/2007 -
with Dave Bird
The old James turnbull ??/2007 -
Nicos 19/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Alex@home ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S

the best thing about this route (only good thing?) is that i never have to do it again. my left hand still hurts from when my feet slipped in the top crack and it sank deeper into the jam than i wanted it to!

with nicos
Andy Nicholson ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Mini
nige 25/Aug/06 Lead
with sven rowan
Climb Rox ?/Aug/06 Lead
with nick
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 05/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Lawrence Eccles ??/2006 Lead dog
with A. Crook
Hidden ?/Sep/05 TR rpt
mark s ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/04 -
nickdonohue ??/2004 Lead
feilx ??/2004 -
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead dog
Mark Stevenson 12/Jul/03 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Jun/03 AltLd
Hidden 15/Mar/03 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/02 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Nik Howard
dan gibson ??/2002 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 09/Sep/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/01 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 10/Jun/00 Lead
with Tim Dunsby
chrisrogers ?/Jun/98 2nd O/S
with James H
Reds 26/May/98 Lead dnf

Led by mitake stuck below bulge

with Sezer
Hidden 14/Feb/98 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/97 2nd dog
Mark Stevenson 17/Aug/97 Lead dog

Pulled on gear to reach belay.

chris sm ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Jon Stevens
The Reaper 01/Aug/96 Lead rpt
brady ??/1996 2nd

bloody hard jamming route

with John Cameron
andybirtwistle 21/Oct/95 Lead O/S
with Ernie Greenwood
crossleysm ??/1992 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Mar/91 2nd O/S
with N Hancock
Roget 10/Jun/90 Lead O/S
with jim
SteveB_NWUK_99 ??/1990 Lead O/S

Lead clean in around 1990. A good route but a bit of a fight.

babymoac 16/Jul/88 Lead

P1 only...

Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Rob Davies ??/1988 2nd dnf

Date? Melvin hadn't climbed for ages but never lacked ambition. He fell off just before the ledge, his top nut popped out: his next stayed in but his old rope parted after getting dragged over an edge. Belaying, I felt a jerk but then he hit the ground beside me on the rope stretch, doing a good job of playing dead, though in fact only badly winded. Then Douggie wandered over, full of concern, looked at the frayed rope ends and pointed out that he shouldn't have been climbing on such a crappy rope.

with Melvin Jones, Angus McLean
Neil R 07/Sep/86 Lead O/S
with Sharon
charlesmfrench 08/Jun/85 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
Hidden ??/1982 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1982 Lead
with FMC
Andy Stephenson ??/1982 AltLd O/S
stp 15/Aug/81 Lead O/S

Didn't get round to leading pitch 2 until June 83

Chris Terrey 20/Jun/81 Lead
with Gerry Dunford
The Reaper 27/Jul/80 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Dave Musgrove 23/May/76 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
GeoffG 06/Aug/75 Lead
with tony bowker
rogerskews ??/1974 Lead
with Paul Barrow
clanger ??/1972 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 44
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set