Rockfax Description
12m. Approach via the roofed in hanging groove to join The Mincer. Follow this through the bulge then from a large chockstone runner (or use it as a belay) sketch right across the slight weakness in the slab, to reach the finger crack and a short sprint to safety. Modern boot rubber is a big help, though it was five years before it was first used on this one! © Rockfax

FA. Gabe Regan 1977

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E3 ticklist, James' Winter Grit ticklist.

Hidden 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Sammy Oakes 14/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Not too hard, but amazing route! rope drag is a mare with the runner in the wrong place.

lukevf 08/Jul/17 Lead dnf
manwithacam 02/Apr/17 Lead

great climbing, chuffed to not fall off

with Mark Grist
The Grist 02/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with Dan Metcalfe
MSchobitz 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Feet are all surprisingly large!

Teappleby 26/Mar/17 Lead β

Felt very solid after Clive Coolhead. The hard bit is really only 2 moves. Super route though, climbs some of the best of the buttress in relative safety.

JRJones 11/Mar/17 AltLd dog

Pitched. Ended up repeating the slab after partner failed to reach the crack and didn't want to further shred his hands by finishing the mincer, fell after getting gear in the crack, so no big deal really

with rowan
deacondeacon 05/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Should have waited till later in the day but I was itching t get on it. Slab could have been drier, finishing crack could have been a little less greener/ dirtier. Amazing route though

ChrisBrooke 09/Oct/16 Lead dnf

Couldn't commit to the slab so just continued up Mincer. Not sure whether to give myself a DNF on this route or a clean onsight of Mincer direct..... :) The Mincer bit was fine so I'll go back and do it properly at some point. JW fell and lowered off, wedging a cam irretrievably in the upper crack and forcing me to ab for gear. Fun climbing, but a faffy experience overall.

with John Wilson
JRJones 12/Mar/16 Lead rpt

No issues real issues with the slab. Had a battle with some drippy jams on mincer. Shredded a rope when second fell. Rope caught in a carelessly placed cam, blaming the slippery jams. Glad to get it clean anyway.

mike mo ??/2016 -
tradandybrown ??/2016 -
with Rob andrews
Proddler ?/Nov/15 Lead G/U

Rope got stuck behind gear in the crack!

sparkass 11/Oct/15 Lead β

Very exciting through the slab.

mshorter 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with steely, dunc
jalqazzaz 23/Sep/15 2nd dog

Hard move to exit the roof (weighted rope after sitting around too long then got around with a bit of muscle). After some jamming you find out why its called smear test. Although there are a few sloped foot holds but for the hands don't expect anything more than tiny tiny pebbles. Awesome route!

with JRJones
JRJones 23/Sep/15 Lead dog

One fall on the roof section. Shouldn't have fluffed it really, might go back and get it clean

with Jonathan Al-Qazzaz
The Grist 29/Aug/15 Lead RP

Disappointed to fall off the crux and take a sizeable fall. Pleased to get back on it and do it clean next attempt.

Albachoss 08/Aug/15 2nd rpt

Can't get enough of this, great lead form Ben

with Ben
nimajneb 08/Aug/15 Lead
MichaelGallimore 30/May/15 Lead RP

Approached by Kicking bird, which I fell off, but did the smear test traverse section clean.

with Flavio
Flavio 30/May/15 2nd dog

Weird alternative 'muffin' start, did smear test traverse clean

benw681 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Lewis
Hidden 04/May/15 2nd dog
Jake Young 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Amazing, the smears are suprisingly good, i stood around quite abit throughout each move.

Albachoss 26/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Stroppy 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Amazing onsight Banks!!! Really enjoyed moving across the slab in the dark (!) Sublime route

Albachoss 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Shed a tear leaving the sanctuary of the left crack

with Ed
Hidden ??/2015 -
thomas108 ??/2015 Lead G/U
saffy ??/2015 Lead
adam 24 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S

Lives up to its name - thin!

Stuart Johnston 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
jamesgodwin64 12/Oct/14 Lead β

i hate it and love it all in the same go, muster up courage and go carefully with faith.

with John Cooper
poeter210 05/Oct/14 2nd dog
with argentinian machine
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nepsoi999 14/Sep/14 2nd dog
andy_e 07/Sep/14 TR dnf
with Mike Gallimore
MichaelGallimore 01/Jun/14 TR RP

Tried on lead the following week but still feels too committing.

with Ian crook
switch 13/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Tim H
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead
switch 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with James
Hidden 01/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
jimxxx ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
bwestwood 10/Nov/13 2nd
with pete sargeant
pie_eater_pete 08/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 26/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Loved it

with Dan bates
AlexRenshaw 14/Sep/13 Lead
julesmckim 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Traversed a bit higher than before...still hard, though the crux is surely that horrible bulge/crack section on Mincer - very happy if I never do that again.

with Alex Renshaw
ian d f 17/Feb/13 Lead dnf

Need to go back for this one, fell off slab.

with Jacob
pete87abs 18/Nov/12 Lead dnf


Sam Melville 09/Oct/12 Lead dog

needs to be done clean! awesome route tho

willoates 08/Oct/12 Lead rpt

retro flash... felt even better this time! quality route.

with Steve
Steeve 08/Oct/12 Lead RP

got it second go, brilliant.

Ky ?/Oct/12 Lead dog
with Dave H
Chi Cheng 15/Jul/12 Lead dog

Fell off 2/3 in on the slab. Wrong foot sequence and could not go back. Got it 2nd go from the ledge.

with Joel Green
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
maddy.c ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Rob Laird 11/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead dnf
richardr 07/Jun/11 Lead RP

After 2 falls due to lack of trust in the feet!

Coel Hellier 02/Apr/11 Lead
thehugehead 26/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Lunar25 22/Mar/11 Lead dog

Fell trying to traverse straight to the crack, once I used the crimps on the shallow flake succeeded fine. Great delicate route! Clean next time!

with Gedas
pbphil169 ?/Mar/11 Lead dog
skittles 28/Feb/11 2nd
with Uftron
Aufton 28/Feb/11 Lead dog
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
HowieB ??/2011 Lead
highlux 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Awesome climb. Slab looks desperate - until you piece it together, step by step...

Keendan 06/Nov/10 2nd dog

Dogged on one of the first moves but got the rest ok. Can't imagine leading runouts like this and respect to my climbing partner. My first experience of seconding a 6a route.

quiffhanger ?/Nov/10 Lead β
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd dnf
mlmatt 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Excellent climb and one thats been on my mind for ages. Glad I did it but the ropedrag was terrible!

hilty 16/May/10 Lead O/S

did the mincer crux then a bloke at the bottom said to try smear test. easy stuff if you keep cool!!!

jacobjacob 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead dog
gnc760 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S


with Rose Williams
willoates 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
juza 15/Feb/10 Lead
with Garry Cooper
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
GF ??/2010 Lead
jimxxx ??/2010 Lead dog
Luke Brooks 26/Nov/09 Lead O/S
barni 26/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with luke
Hidden 09/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Misha 13/Jun/09 Lead dog

Got to the good handhold, foot slipped and off I went, somehow ripping my new trousers in the process. Comment from the audience: "Your gear held" - perceptive. Got it on the second attempt. Great route.

mattnuttall 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Jack Symmons 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Chris T
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead dnf
Dan 85 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Mark
Paul ablitt ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Graham
tom 02 ??/2009 Lead rpt
Lev 01/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/08 2nd dog
alaan 12/Oct/08 Lead

Oh dear, really can't climb grit slabs - sorted my head out on the third go after two mini-falls.

with Broom
CBA ?/Oct/08 -
ukb & bmc shark 27/Jan/08 2nd rpt
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Rachel S 06/Oct/07 2nd
with Richard K
Rich Kirby 06/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Jus 28/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/07 Lead
gregoritos ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Dave kettle
Mr Wild 28/Mar/07 Lead dog

Wow that last move on the slab was sketchy as anything

with olly
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Dec/06 2nd dnf
Stig 18/Nov/06 Lead dnf
with Maciek
Bullybones ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2005 -
mark s ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead RP
Brown 21/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Stu
Andrew Abraham ??/2004 2nd O/S

Sam Doyle led, a few quality moves where you feel exposed moving across the slab

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 11/Oct/03 2nd β
Gus ??/2003 -
shoulders 20/Apr/02 Lead
with tom
Hidden 06/Apr/02 Lead O/S
philhilo ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/99 TR
Mark Riley ??/1998 TR O/S
with Richard Ibberson
sadams 11/Oct/97 Lead
with Hugh Cottom
Chris Murray ?/Aug/97 Lead

Didn't know it at the time, but this was pretty much the high point of my climbing career.

SR1970 ?/Mar/97 Lead O/S
nige ??/1997 Lead
with sven rowan
robtrooper ??/1996 -
ste_d 12/May/95 2nd O/S
with mik
nai ??/1995 Lead
AlexRenshaw 22/Dec/94 Lead
with Ted Lister
pete johnson 09/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Steve Findlay
Hidden ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/94 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 20/Mar/94 Lead

third attempt!

with Nick Ashton
crossleysm ??/1994 Lead O/S
andrew300169 ?/Apr/92 Lead dog

took a few falls on it but really enjoyed it

with Pom
Hidden 29/May/91 TR
channinga ??/1991 -
SB_NWUK_99 ??/1991 -

V. thin leading on the slab. It's so long ago that it's difficult to remember whether I started at the left hand side of the slab or lead from the ground, so not marked as a complete lead here. Swing-back potential when going right across the top slab.

Rich Kirby 22/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
goi.ashmore 11/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Richard France, Andy Joyce
Seymore Butt ??/1990 2nd
with Roy
Chris the Tall ?/Nov/87 TR

Richard had failed to lead it, and I'd failed to get up the Mincer section, but this was easy on a top rope

with Richard O'Meara
Eduardo Martinez 26/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/87 Lead
Neil McA 25/Sep/86 2nd O/S
with Martin Wilson
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 -
with Andy Popp
AlexRenshaw 01/Sep/85 Lead
with Sean Myles
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 2nd O/S
with Graham Aveyard
charlesmfrench 08/Jun/85 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark ?/Nov/84 2nd
with Mark Mitchell
Hidden 08/Apr/84 2nd
Mark Kemball 01/Apr/84 Lead
with Paul Clark
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Andy Nicholson ?/Aug/78 2nd O/S
with Steve Andrews
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 63
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 56
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set