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20m.

Rockfax Description
20m. Climb the short steep wall (bouldery) to a rest below the bulges then move rightwards to the shrubby gully. Up this to a traverse out left leading to a short finger and hand crack. Sadly, despite some nice moves after the start, the rest of the route is only about Severe and the line leaves a lot to desired. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List

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User Date Notes
Souljah 13 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A suprisingly tricky start,once in the groove theres a nice step round the bulge with your left hand on a crimpy edge, then into a low crack that rises diagonaly up the wall into a disapointing gully (that ruins the route) Basicly its all over once youve stepped round the bulge!
βeta?
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βeta: A suprisingly tricky start,once in the groove theres a nice step round the bulge with your left hand on a crimpy edge, then into a low crack that rises diagonaly up the wall into a disapointing gully (that ruins the route) Basicly its all over once youve stepped round the bulge!
shaun walby 15 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Getting off the floor and established on the lip is a tad tricky. The route as a whole is well worth getting your head around the start. Great route.
βeta?
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βeta: Getting off the floor and established on the lip is a tad tricky. The route as a whole is well worth getting your head around the start. Great route.
chopkins 22 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Ive heard of grade drift but this is ridiculous. In 1970 this was a classic "sandbagging" Hard Severe route. There was a pinch hold under the roof at the start which allowed you to pull up and to the left. Miss this hold and I agree it would be difficult. I wonder if it has "fallen off" or are people still missing it.
 
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βeta: Ive heard of grade drift but this is ridiculous. In 1970 this was a classic "sandbagging" Hard Severe route. There was a pinch hold under the roof at the start which allowed you to pull up and to the left. Miss this hold and I agree it would be difficult. I wonder if it has "fallen off" or are people still missing it.
FedUp 19 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: HVS 5b. VS 5b if you can reach high enough to place a runner before starting. Think about doing the starting moves high on a route and it's obviously 5b and not 5a IMO.
βeta?
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βeta: HVS 5b. VS 5b if you can reach high enough to place a runner before starting. Think about doing the starting moves high on a route and it's obviously 5b and not 5a IMO.
r0b 26 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I'd say 5a to get hands on the low ledge then maybe 5b (at least hard 5a) to get stood on top of it. This bit would stop a lot of leaders working up through the VS's so the grade should be easy HVS I think,
βeta?
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βeta: I'd say 5a to get hands on the low ledge then maybe 5b (at least hard 5a) to get stood on top of it. This bit would stop a lot of leaders working up through the VS's so the grade should be easy HVS I think,
Paul Boardman 7 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with Rosemary. I thought there were a couple of difficult moves at the start. First getting off the ground and then getting establied on the low ledge. Felt like HVS 5a to me, though the rest is quite easy.
βeta?
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βeta: I agree with Rosemary. I thought there were a couple of difficult moves at the start. First getting off the ground and then getting establied on the low ledge. Felt like HVS 5a to me, though the rest is quite easy.
Rock Fairy 20 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: First 15 feet has several 5a/5b moves, but the good gear & easy final section make a good VS
βeta?
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βeta: First 15 feet has several 5a/5b moves, but the good gear & easy final section make a good VS
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I fell of the start and was glad there was a bouldering mat! Many might not have one. HVS 5b sounds more like it for a pure matless ascent. The rest of the route is straightforward and of a an entirely different character.
βeta?
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βeta: I fell of the start and was glad there was a bouldering mat! Many might not have one. HVS 5b sounds more like it for a pure matless ascent. The rest of the route is straightforward and of a an entirely different character.
mozzer 14 Mar, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: This has to be VS 5a. Totally agree with Jonathan Prager. It sure as hell isnt 4c, the first bit!
βeta?
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βeta: This has to be VS 5a. Totally agree with Jonathan Prager. It sure as hell isnt 4c, the first bit!

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 129
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 94
Votes cast 101
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Bachelor's Climb

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Hen Cloud)