Rockfax Description
A smart line. Start on the ledges just left of the gearing-up block.
Climb the fingery brown wall to the break and finish up the black streak above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The black streak to the left of Brean topping, starting as for that route.

Dave Pickford 2010

Ticklists

The road to 8a, West Country Climbs, West Country projects, South West 8's, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, UK 8a and up, Andy's Projects, Brean Down Sports Climbs, 2019 all-rounder Psyche list, Twenty in Twenty19, South Side Sport

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 3 Nov, 2019 Lead
aiyer 19 Oct, 2019 Lead dog One move wonder but sadly a move I can't do! (yet)
One move wonder but sadly a move I can't do! (yet)
Duma Brickhill 17 Oct, 2019 Lead RP Third go, but have done the SW start before
Third go, but have done the SW start before
Tom92 6 Oct, 2019 Lead RP
GrahamGiles 31 Mar, 2019 Lead RP Should have flashed it yesterday, had 2 bad attempts after then came back and sent it easy putting the draws up.
with Joanne
Should have flashed it yesterday, had 2 bad attempts after then came back and sent it easy putting the draws up.
with Joanne
Richard Kendrick 17 Mar, 2019 Lead dog
with Arlo, robf321
with Arlo, robf321
afrosam 23 Feb, 2019 Lead RP
Alex N-R 21 Sep, 2018 Lead RP 2nd go
with Colum
2nd go
with Colum
peaches69 13 May, 2018 Lead rpt
Llinos C 24 Feb, 2018 Lead RP Good route! Nice burly crimp moves at the top. No idea about the grade
with brices
Good route! Nice burly crimp moves at the top. No idea about the grade
with brices
Ramon Marin 17 Feb, 2018 Lead rpt
i_a_coops 15 Dec, 2017 Lead RP 3rd go. Used the ledge for feet but not hands so I could pretend that I was crushing La Rambla. Didn't feel 8a but only been climbing on plastic recently so not got much to compare it to.
3rd go. Used the ledge for feet but not hands so I could pretend that I was crushing La Rambla. Didn't feel 8a but only been climbing on plastic recently so not got much to compare it to.
Hidden 17 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
Stuart William 12 Nov, 2017 Lead dog Best try yet today - fell at the pop near the top. Plus plenty of practice falls so not a wasted day for sure.
with Si P
Best try yet today - fell at the pop near the top. Plus plenty of practice falls so not a wasted day for sure.
with Si P
Finley1234 12 Nov, 2017 Lead RP Disappointed to have blown the onsight but got it second go. I found it a bit soft for 8a.
Disappointed to have blown the onsight but got it second go. I found it a bit soft for 8a.
Tom Corras 9 Nov, 2017 Lead RP Tried after topping
Tried after topping
Stuart William 27 Oct, 2017 Lead dog Finally good conditions so the top crux felt much more viable. Got all the moves done now and linked all the bottom section to the break. Feeling a lot more optimistic.
Finally good conditions so the top crux felt much more viable. Got all the moves done now and linked all the bottom section to the break. Feeling a lot more optimistic.
Dale Comley 7 Oct, 2017 Lead RP 2nd go. low 7c+
with blaza1
2nd go. low 7c+
with blaza1
blaza1 7 Oct, 2017 - In a session, 3rd go but slipped on the 2nd probably not 8a....
In a session, 3rd go but slipped on the 2nd probably not 8a....
Stuart William 1 Oct, 2017 Lead dog Still work to do. Felt proper minging today on the top crux so not much luck. Need to come back when it’s dry.
with Si P
Still work to do. Felt proper minging today on the top crux so not much luck. Need to come back when it’s dry.
with Si P
Stuart William 16 Sep, 2017 Lead dog Got the first section sorted with a bit of beta from a passer-by. Couldnt quite figure out the top. Slopey rail felt bad in the sun which didnt help. Feels tough but should go once I figure out the sequence for the upper crux.
with Si P
Got the first section sorted with a bit of beta from a passer-by. Couldnt quite figure out the top. Slopey rail felt bad in the sun which didnt help. Feels tough but should go once I figure out the sequence for the upper crux.
with Si P
Wft 10 Sep, 2017 Lead dog Hard move, disjointed route. not inspired
with Flo Barton, Dan Middleton
Hard move, disjointed route. not inspired
with Flo Barton, Dan Middleton
seweryn 30 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt
hankyc 31 May, 2017 Lead RP Second go today, first in Sun was desperate, afternoon shade and breeze perfect m, quickest 8a yet for me, 7c+ seems about right
Second go today, first in Sun was desperate, afternoon shade and breeze perfect m, quickest 8a yet for me, 7c+ seems about right
_m.cox_ 7 May, 2017 Lead RP Should have done this quicker, need to learn to be more patient and wait for the sun to go round! One move wonder really.
with duffer, Ron Barraclough
Should have done this quicker, need to learn to be more patient and wait for the sun to go round! One move wonder really.
with duffer, Ron Barraclough
Luuuuuke 7 May, 2017 Lead RP
Ed Booth 2 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Somebody esle had clips and had wanted to try this. Did it all fine apart from didn't manage the crux pop. Small holds in the sun were trashing my skin trying it. Then the draws got stripped so with the time left had to get on something else. Don't know what its like in the cold, but didn't seem particularly soft.
Somebody esle had clips and had wanted to try this. Did it all fine apart from didn't manage the crux pop. Small holds in the sun were trashing my skin trying it. Then the draws got stripped so with the time left had to get on something else. Don't know what its like in the cold, but didn't seem particularly soft.
Hidden 27 Mar, 2017 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 11 Mar, 2017 Lead dog
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Hidden 11 Mar, 2017 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 4 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Holister 28 Jan, 2017 Lead RP Good route, finally got on it in the dry and after some new beta from sash it went first go.
Good route, finally got on it in the dry and after some new beta from sash it went first go.
Hidden 21 Jan, 2017 2nd
Russell Blackaller 21 Jan, 2017 Lead RP
Wise 20 Jan, 2017 Lead dog Another perfect Brean day. Fell off the throw to the crimp at the end of the crux. Got plenty on it as well, just not enough to hold it.
Another perfect Brean day. Fell off the throw to the crimp at the end of the crux. Got plenty on it as well, just not enough to hold it.
Rory Bascombe 18 Jan, 2017 Lead RP Hard to grade, bit of a one move wonder
with Elliot vanstone, jacobjohncharles, LeggingsQueen
Hard to grade, bit of a one move wonder
with Elliot vanstone, jacobjohncharles, LeggingsQueen
Kris suriyo 27 Dec, 2016 Lead RP https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVr4a4yv7VY
with Eastonp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVr4a4yv7VY
with Eastonp
DorsetGareth 4 Dec, 2016 Lead RP Essentially in one session, having worked the first half of the route three years ago. Really nice, but in today's perfect conditions, felt more like 7c+.
with Wise
Essentially in one session, having worked the first half of the route three years ago. Really nice, but in today's perfect conditions, felt more like 7c+.
with Wise
tommccluskey 10 Nov, 2016 Lead RP
with Christophe, Chris Redding
with Christophe, Chris Redding
Hidden 30 Oct, 2016 Lead RP
rhoslynfrugtniet 23 Oct, 2016 Lead RP Second go
with Russ
Second go
with Russ
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 14 Oct, 2016 Lead rpt
with Elliot, purple sue
with Elliot, purple sue
nickmoulden ?Aug, 2016 Lead RP Fell stupidly near top. Nearly onsight. 1st rp.
with zoe bidula
Fell stupidly near top. Nearly onsight. 1st rp.
with zoe bidula
Matt Cooke 23 Apr, 2016 Lead RP
with derico, Sam Taylor
with derico, Sam Taylor
yan hawkins 25 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
with ron
with ron
Billg 12 Mar, 2016 Lead RP 2 nice sections seperared by a massive rest. 7c / soft 7c+? Would be a different ball game if the holds on the pillar were missed out.
with Will Calvert
2 nice sections seperared by a massive rest. 7c / soft 7c+? Would be a different ball game if the holds on the pillar were missed out.
with Will Calvert
_m.cox_ 30 Jan, 2016 Lead dog Should have done this, I blame the cold!
with remus
Should have done this, I blame the cold!
with remus
derico 28 Nov, 2015 Lead RP Well happy to beat todays rain and get an 8a in at the end of the year. Feels like a v3 into a v6 then easy climbing to a v5 to me. So easy for 8a, but harder than 7c+'s I've done. Obviously much easier if you are shorter and can do the right leg rock over move on lower crux ;)
with Tommy S, Matt Cooke, Jonny_86
Well happy to beat todays rain and get an 8a in at the end of the year. Feels like a v3 into a v6 then easy climbing to a v5 to me. So easy for 8a, but harder than 7c+'s I've done. Obviously much easier if you are shorter and can do the right leg rock over move on lower crux ;)
with Tommy S, Matt Cooke, Jonny_86
thomasmouse 2 Aug, 2015 Lead dog
Wendy 31 May, 2015 Lead RP Soft
Soft
peaches69 12 Apr, 2015 Lead rpt
ChrisDavis 28 Mar, 2015 Lead RP
with derico
with derico
bunn.aroundthebloc ?Mar, 2015 Lead RP Awesome top moves, proper soft. Soft 7c+?
Awesome top moves, proper soft. Soft 7c+?
Hidden 31 Jan, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 25 Jan, 2015 Lead RP
Ged Desforges ??, 2015 - Cool Boulder problem, 7c+
Cool Boulder problem, 7c+
Jonny_86 29 Dec, 2014 Lead RP dogged up, fired off next go. 7c+ at most?
dogged up, fired off next go. 7c+ at most?
PeterDawson 6 Dec, 2014 Lead RP Did this with a load of draws as a bit of weight training!
Did this with a load of draws as a bit of weight training!
Hidden 9 Nov, 2014 Lead dog
chrisscutt 1 Nov, 2014 Lead RP Happy to get my first 8a even if it was a tad soft. Nice boulder problem at the top
with Steph
Happy to get my first 8a even if it was a tad soft. Nice boulder problem at the top
with Steph
brices 20 Sep, 2014 Lead RP Much easier when the holds are dry.
Much easier when the holds are dry.
James Marshall 12 Aug, 2014 Lead RP Good sequence, the holds felt massive after Brean Topping ! (7c/+)
with Tom Ball
Good sequence, the holds felt massive after Brean Topping ! (7c/+)
with Tom Ball
Justin T 5 Jul, 2014 Lead RP Rested on jug (total contrivance not to IMHO), soft 7c+?
Rested on jug (total contrivance not to IMHO), soft 7c+?
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 -
Hidden 5 May, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 4 May, 2014 Lead dog
JM 30 Mar, 2014 Lead RP Easy 7c+ if you rest on the jug like I did.
Easy 7c+ if you rest on the jug like I did.
Hidden 15 Mar, 2014 Lead dog
DorsetGareth 19 Jan, 2014 TR dnf Second half utterly soaking. Played on first half.
with Wise
Second half utterly soaking. Played on first half.
with Wise
Luke Dawson 30 Nov, 2013 Lead RP 2nd try
2nd try
tom106 25 Nov, 2013 Lead RP cold fingers but fun bouldery crux. soft.
with alessio, Joe Innes
cold fingers but fun bouldery crux. soft.
with alessio, Joe Innes
Ally Smith 23 Nov, 2013 Lead RP 7c/+?
with Jimbo, Tom Gibbison
7c/+?
with Jimbo, Tom Gibbison
Jack_F 22 Jun, 2013 Lead RP Really good condition today felt good!
Really good condition today felt good!
adam cooper*super* 22 Jun, 2013 Lead RP 3rd go, nearly flashed. good!
with Jack_F
3rd go, nearly flashed. good!
with Jack_F
Ramon Marin 21 Apr, 2013 Lead rpt Great route, did it today in a day, but I've done the bottom half a bunch of times, still, almost fell off the bottom part on my sent. I use different beta than everyone elses, which made it feel more like 7c+ than 8a.
with viki harvey
Great route, did it today in a day, but I've done the bottom half a bunch of times, still, almost fell off the bottom part on my sent. I use different beta than everyone elses, which made it feel more like 7c+ than 8a.
with viki harvey
Hidden 20 Apr, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 19 Apr, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 19 Apr, 2013 Lead RP
brices 13 Mar, 2013 Lead dog pinged off the top crimp a few times loosing body tension
with cha1n, Tomar
pinged off the top crimp a few times loosing body tension
with cha1n, Tomar
brices 3 Mar, 2013 Lead dog Linked crux today no skin for send though
with Tomar
Linked crux today no skin for send though
with Tomar
guy xavier percival 28 Feb, 2013 Lead RP
with gordon
with gordon
simonr 23 Feb, 2013 Lead dog So cold that fingers were completely numb before the break. Was fine in two sections though - will be back.
with Eleri Clarke, sam
So cold that fingers were completely numb before the break. Was fine in two sections though - will be back.
with Eleri Clarke, sam
Ally Smith 9 Feb, 2013 Lead dog This and Brean topping were the only things dry (ish). 7c+ and not a hard one at that, but crux hold seeped quicker than i could climb the lower section.
with Tom Gibbison
This and Brean topping were the only things dry (ish). 7c+ and not a hard one at that, but crux hold seeped quicker than i could climb the lower section.
with Tom Gibbison
cross ??, 2013 -
brices 8 Dec, 2012 Lead dog all moves done fell off at end of crux 2nd go. next time
with Tomar
all moves done fell off at end of crux 2nd go. next time
with Tomar
Hidden ?Nov, 2012 Lead RP
Tris.w 30 Oct, 2012 Lead RP 1st 8a, harder than other 7c+'s I've done but not by much
1st 8a, harder than other 7c+'s I've done but not by much
Cassidy 14 Jul, 2012 Lead RP 2nd go
with Rich Emerson
2nd go
with Rich Emerson
dan gibson 19 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
with julie carroll
with julie carroll
peaches69 31 May, 2012 Lead RP 1st redpoint 2day, felt ok with cooler conditions, 7c+
with con321
1st redpoint 2day, felt ok with cooler conditions, 7c+
with con321
peaches69 27 May, 2012 TR dog 2nd session, done in 2 overlapping sections. bottom to crux, break to top
with con321
2nd session, done in 2 overlapping sections. bottom to crux, break to top
with con321
Jon_Warner 15 Apr, 2012 Lead dog Pretty cool but short-lived. Sequence didn't seem obvious.
with Jenni
Pretty cool but short-lived. Sequence didn't seem obvious.
with Jenni
Hidden 15 Apr, 2012 TR dnf
pezzerrr 21 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
Gavinsymonds 1 Mar, 2012 - more 7c+ than 8a
more 7c+ than 8a
quiffhanger 15 Jan, 2012 Lead RP Took a while. Avoided the massive ledge for hands-possibly 8a this way: need to do a few more to be sure! Def the hardest route I've done @ Brean to date.
Took a while. Avoided the massive ledge for hands-possibly 8a this way: need to do a few more to be sure! Def the hardest route I've done @ Brean to date.
westyb3 4 Dec, 2011 Lead RP A tad soft,
with Heather Ogston
A tad soft,
with Heather Ogston
Cailean Harker 28 Nov, 2011 Lead RP Climbed second go. Very soft for 8a.
Climbed second go. Very soft for 8a.
Tom Heslam ??, 2011 Lead RP
with Ed Heslam
with Ed Heslam
Kev Little ??, 2010 Lead RP
gazhbo ?Nov, 2009 Lead
28 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set