UKC

Rockfax Description
A smart line. Start on the ledges just left of the gearing-up block.
Climb the fingery brown wall to the break and finish up the black streak above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The black streak to the left of Brean topping, starting as for that route.

Dave Pickford 2010

Ticklists: The road to 8a, West Country Climbs, West Country projects, South West 8's, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, UK 8a and up, Andy's Projects, Brean Down Sports Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
i_a_coops 15/Dec/17 Lead RP

3rd go. Used the ledge for feet but not hands so I could pretend that I was crushing La Rambla. Didn't feel 8a but only been climbing on plastic recently so not got much to compare it to.

Hidden 17/Nov/17 Lead RP
Stuart William 12/Nov/17 Lead dog

Best try yet today - fell at the pop near the top. Plus plenty of practice falls so not a wasted day for sure.

with Si P
Finley1234 12/Nov/17 Lead RP

Disappointed to have blown the onsight but got it second go. I found it a bit soft for 8a.

Tom Corras 09/Nov/17 Lead RP

Tried after topping

Stuart William 27/Oct/17 Lead dog

Finally good conditions so the top crux felt much more viable. Got all the moves done now and linked all the bottom section to the break. Feeling a lot more optimistic.

Dale Comley 07/Oct/17 Lead RP

2nd go.

blaza1 07/Oct/17 -

In a session, 3rd go but slipped on the 2nd probably not 8a....

Stuart William 01/Oct/17 Lead dog

Still work to do. Felt proper minging today on the top crux so not much luck. Need to come back when it’s dry.

with Si P
Stuart William 16/Sep/17 Lead dog

Got the first section sorted with a bit of beta from a passer-by. Couldnt quite figure out the top. Slopey rail felt bad in the sun which didnt help. Feels tough but should go once I figure out the sequence for the upper crux.

with Si P
Wood for Trees 10/Sep/17 Lead dog

Hard move, disjointed route. not inspired

with Flo Barton, Dan Middleton
seweryn 30/Aug/17 Lead rpt
hankyc 31/May/17 Lead RP

Second go today, first in Sun was desperate, afternoon shade and breeze perfect m, quickest 8a yet for me, 7c+ seems about right

_m.cox_ 07/May/17 Lead RP

Should have done this quicker, need to learn to be more patient and wait for the sun to go round! One move wonder really.

with duffer, Ron Barraclough
Luuuuuke 07/May/17 Lead RP
with Si
Ed Booth 02/Apr/17 Lead dog

Somebody esle had clips and had wanted to try this. Did it all fine apart from didn't manage the crux pop. Small holds in the sun were trashing my skin trying it. Then the draws got stripped so with the time left had to get on something else. Don't know what its like in the cold, but didn't seem particularly soft.

Hidden 27/Mar/17 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 11/Mar/17 Lead dog
with viki harvey
Hidden 11/Mar/17 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 04/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
Holister 28/Jan/17 Lead RP

Good route, finally got on it in the dry and after some new beta from sash it went first go.

with Ali, Sash
Hidden 21/Jan/17 2nd
Russell Blackaller 21/Jan/17 Lead RP
with Jonny
Wise 20/Jan/17 Lead dog

Another perfect Brean day. Fell off the throw to the crimp at the end of the crux. Got plenty on it as well, just not enough to hold it.

with Gareth
Rory Bascombe 18/Jan/17 Lead RP

Hard to grade, bit of a one move wonder

with Elliot vanstone, jacobjohncharles, Evie
Kris suriyo 27/Dec/16 Lead RP

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVr4a4yv7VY

with Paul
DorsetGareth 04/Dec/16 Lead RP

Essentially in one session, having worked the first half of the route three years ago. Really nice, but in today's perfect conditions, felt more like 7c+.

tommccluskey 10/Nov/16 Lead RP
with Christophe, Chris Redding
Hidden 30/Oct/16 Lead RP
rhoslynfrugtniet 23/Oct/16 Lead RP

Second go

with Russ
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 14/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Elliot, Sue hazel
nickmoulden ?/Aug/16 Lead RP

Fell stupidly near top. Nearly onsight. 1st rp.

with zoe bidula
Matt Cooke 23/Apr/16 Lead RP
with Dave, Sam Taylor
yan hawkins 25/Mar/16 Lead RP
with ron
Billg 12/Mar/16 Lead RP

2 nice sections seperared by a massive rest. 7c / soft 7c+? Would be a different ball game if the holds on the pillar were missed out.

with Will Calvert
_m.cox_ 30/Jan/16 Lead dog

Should have done this, I blame the cold!

with remus
derico 28/Nov/15 Lead RP

Well happy to beat todays rain and get an 8a in at the end of the year. Feels like a v3 into a v6 then easy climbing to a v5 to me. So easy for 8a, but harder than 7c+'s I've done. Obviously much easier if you are shorter and can do the right leg rock over move on lower crux ;)

with Tommy S, Matt Cooke, Jonny
thomasmouse 02/Aug/15 Lead dog
Wendy 31/May/15 Lead RP

Soft

peaches69 12/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with luke
Hidden 28/Mar/15 Lead RP
El3ctroFuzz ?/Mar/15 Lead RP

Awesome top moves, proper soft. Soft 7c+?

Hidden 31/Jan/15 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jan/15 Lead RP
Ged Desforges ??/2015 -

Cool Boulder problem, 7c+

Hidden 29/Dec/14 Lead RP
PeterDawson 06/Dec/14 Lead RP

Did this with a load of draws as a bit of weight training!

Hidden 09/Nov/14 Lead dog
chrisscutt 01/Nov/14 Lead RP

Happy to get my first 8a even if it was a tad soft. Nice boulder problem at the top

with Steph
brices 20/Sep/14 Lead RP

Much easier when the holds are dry.

with Llinos
James Marshall 12/Aug/14 Lead RP

Good sequence, the holds felt massive after Brean Topping ! (7c/+)

with Tom Ball
Justin T 05/Jul/14 Lead RP

Rested on jug (total contrivance not to IMHO), soft 7c+?

with Nancy
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead dog
JM 30/Mar/14 Lead RP

Easy 7c+ if you rest on the jug like I did.

with Stevo
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead dog
DorsetGareth 19/Jan/14 TR dnf

Second half utterly soaking. Played on first half.

Luke Dawson 30/Nov/13 Lead RP

2nd try

tom106 25/Nov/13 Lead RP

cold fingers but fun bouldery crux. soft.

with alessio, Joe i
Ally Smith 23/Nov/13 Lead RP

7c/+?

with Jimbo, Tom Gibbison
Jack_F 22/Jun/13 Lead RP

Really good condition today felt good!

adam cooper*super* 22/Jun/13 Lead RP

3rd go, nearly flashed. good!

Ramon Marin 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Great route, did it today in a day, but I've done the bottom half a bunch of times, still, almost fell off the bottom part on my sent. I use different beta than everyone elses, which made it feel more like 7c+ than 8a.

with viki harvey
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead RP
Ellis Butler-Barker 19/Apr/13 Lead RP

First redpoint, quite cool route actually.

with JackMac
Hidden 19/Apr/13 Lead RP
brices 13/Mar/13 Lead dog

pinged off the top crimp a few times loosing body tension

brices 03/Mar/13 Lead dog

Linked crux today no skin for send though

with Tomar
guy xavier percival 28/Feb/13 Lead RP
with gordon
simonr 23/Feb/13 Lead dog

So cold that fingers were completely numb before the break. Was fine in two sections though - will be back.

with Eleri Clarke, Sam Clarke
Ally Smith 09/Feb/13 Lead dog

This and Brean topping were the only things dry (ish). 7c+ and not a hard one at that, but crux hold seeped quicker than i could climb the lower section.

with Tom Gibbison
cross ??/2013 -
brices 08/Dec/12 Lead dog

all moves done fell off at end of crux 2nd go. next time

with Tomar
Hidden ?/Nov/12 Lead RP
Tris.w 30/Oct/12 Lead RP

1st 8a, harder than other 7c+'s I've done but not by much

with Laurent
Cassidy 14/Jul/12 Lead RP

2nd go

with Rich Emerson
dan gibson 19/Jun/12 Lead RP
with julie carroll
peaches69 31/May/12 Lead RP

1st redpoint 2day, felt ok with cooler conditions, 7c+

with connor
peaches69 27/May/12 TR dog

2nd session, done in 2 overlapping sections. bottom to crux, break to top

with connor
Jon_Warner 15/Apr/12 Lead dog

Pretty cool but short-lived. Sequence didn't seem obvious.

with Jenni
Hidden 15/Apr/12 TR dnf
pezzerrr 21/Mar/12 Lead RP
Gavinsymonds 01/Mar/12 -

more 7c+ than 8a

quiffhanger 15/Jan/12 Lead RP

Took a while. Avoided the massive ledge for hands-possibly 8a this way: need to do a few more to be sure! Def the hardest route I've done @ Brean to date.

westyb3 04/Dec/11 Lead RP

A tad soft,

with Heather Ogston
Cailean Harker 28/Nov/11 Lead RP

Climbed second go. Very soft for 8a.

Tom Heslam ??/2011 Lead RP
with Ed Heslam
Kev Little ??/2010 Lead RP
gazhbo ?/Nov/09 Lead
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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set