16m.

Rockfax Description
The wide corner is a titanic struggle for most, wedging-a-way up is the only option, though macho-men with strong arms and little imagination can layback - though they may well end up regretting it as the top approaches. Said by some to make Freddie's Finale look like a soft touch and another ancient HVS!
Green Streak, HVS 5a - For those who haven't had enough make a hand-traverse right to reach the hanging crack - adds half a star. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1948

Ticklists

Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Wide Cracks, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Thrutch and Clutch, WideBoyz Crack School, UK road to wide crack mastery

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Ben Stokes 28 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I can just read the headlines - man gets helmet stuck in crack... fa-nah, fa-nah
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I can just read the headlines - man gets helmet stuck in crack... fa-nah, fa-nah
Frank the Husky 14 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the green streak finish is excellent...very well worth doing and possibly adds another 1/2 a star to the route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the green streak finish is excellent...very well worth doing and possibly adds another 1/2 a star to the route!
Nick Smith - Climbers 13 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Certainly harder than The Trident or Freddie's Finale, a pumpy E1. Best laybacked - ignore any attempts to sandbag you into wedging your body into it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Certainly harder than The Trident or Freddie's Finale, a pumpy E1. Best laybacked - ignore any attempts to sandbag you into wedging your body into it!
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
George Frisby 6 Jul Lead rpt Facing left side in truthing the start, with some baggy hands and fists up to the Size 6 BD cam which gave me the confidence to go for the moves transitioning into the offwidth. So happy to get this and trident in a day!
with Berny
Facing left side in truthing the start, with some baggy hands and fists up to the Size 6 BD cam which gave me the confidence to go for the moves transitioning into the offwidth. So happy to get this and trident in a day!
with Berny
George Frisby 30 Jun Lead dog No layback this time, just faced left side in for the initial crack using hand and fist jams, still can't transition into the wider crack though.
No layback this time, just faced left side in for the initial crack using hand and fist jams, still can't transition into the wider crack though.
luke_blazejewski 30 Jun 2nd O/S
George Frisby 14 Jul, 2018 2nd rpt Laybacked the bottom section until it gets wide and i got wider, and fisty and thrutchy. Wanna lead it now, just need 4 big bluies and some silvers. Not sure how easy it will be to place gear from the starting laybacking either.
Laybacked the bottom section until it gets wide and i got wider, and fisty and thrutchy. Wanna lead it now, just need 4 big bluies and some silvers. Not sure how easy it will be to place gear from the starting laybacking either.
rowland penty 14 Jul, 2018 Lead
Fakey Rocks 12 May, 2018 2nd dog Thought I would prefer layback option as 2nding, which doesn't seem too bad, until higher up. Would be a mare placing gear on lead this way though. Don't think I could manage the wedging techniques, but possibly will behappy to try it again someday?
Thought I would prefer layback option as 2nding, which doesn't seem too bad, until higher up. Would be a mare placing gear on lead this way though. Don't think I could manage the wedging techniques, but possibly will behappy to try it again someday?
Martin Bagshaw 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S Bit of Yosemite 5.9 on this one.
Bit of Yosemite 5.9 on this one.
rowland penty ??, 2018 Lead dog Dogged moving from layback to wide crack, probably because i put a cam right in the way
Dogged moving from layback to wide crack, probably because i put a cam right in the way
devious wally 27 Oct, 2017 2nd
devious wally 27 Oct, 2017 Lead G/U Not actually that bad and you don’t actually need to bully it once you sort the transition from layback to widening crack out! Brilliant!!
Not actually that bad and you don’t actually need to bully it once you sort the transition from layback to widening crack out! Brilliant!!
mrphilipoldham 27 Oct, 2017 Lead rpt Laybacked it in the end. All the way. Sort of.
Laybacked it in the end. All the way. Sort of.
George Frisby 18 Jun, 2017 TR dnf Only managed to climb the layback sequence in the lower half of the route. As the crack widens I couldn't make any progress. Hopefully cleaned it a little by climbing it.
Only managed to climb the layback sequence in the lower half of the route. As the crack widens I couldn't make any progress. Hopefully cleaned it a little by climbing it.
mrphilipoldham 18 Jun, 2017 2nd dog In a vain attempt to clean it for the lead. It was filthy and took one rest. Will probably go on the sharp end despite the scrittishness. Easier and more actual 'climbing' than The Trident.
In a vain attempt to clean it for the lead. It was filthy and took one rest. Will probably go on the sharp end despite the scrittishness. Easier and more actual 'climbing' than The Trident.
Hidden 11 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
Stroppy 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Another classic struggle!
with Hastie
Another classic struggle!
with Hastie
soph 9 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Chicken wing tastic - probably the hardest of the three classic hvs's
Chicken wing tastic - probably the hardest of the three classic hvs's
morganator 9 Sep, 2016 2nd
with soph
with soph
ferdia 15 Aug, 2016 2nd
Andy Moles 15 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Not as desperate as the Rockfax description makes out, about the same as Freddie's Finale and Trident.
with ferdia
Not as desperate as the Rockfax description makes out, about the same as Freddie's Finale and Trident.
with ferdia
Flavio 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S No pain - no vertical gain! Prancing around on crimps won't help here, best done in goretex clothing.
No pain - no vertical gain! Prancing around on crimps won't help here, best done in goretex clothing.
w-watson 23 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
John sealey 3 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
with si witcher
with si witcher
Si Witcher 3 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S Sustained laybacking, made harder by the lichen still being a little damp. Could do with a good scrub down.
Sustained laybacking, made harder by the lichen still being a little damp. Could do with a good scrub down.
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 21 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 21 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
andi turner ??, 2013 -
Frank the Husky ??, 2013 -
Jim Slater 24 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S Absolutely exhausting and lost a fair amount of blood in the process. Never again.
Absolutely exhausting and lost a fair amount of blood in the process. Never again.
Graeme Hammond 24 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf
walts4 ??, 2011 -
Pete Graham 11 May, 2008 Lead
with James Fleming
with James Fleming
Hidden ?Sep, 2003 Lead RP
charlesmfrench 13 Jul, 2002 Lead
goi.ashmore 6 May, 1995 Lead O/S
with Matt Hirst
with Matt Hirst
crossleysm ??, 1995 2nd
ste_d 25 Aug, 1993 2nd O/S
steveb2006 27 Aug, 1990 2nd
with Simon Mee
with Simon Mee
uphillnow ??, 1984 2nd
Hidden 18 Apr, 1982 2nd
Sean Kelly ?Jun, 1975 Lead E1!!!! This was good old VS in the original Chew guide when I did this in the early 70's.
with Graham Thompson & Steve Berisford
E1!!!! This was good old VS in the original Chew guide when I did this in the early 70's.
with Graham Thompson & Steve Berisford
clanger ??, 1972 -
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 17
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set