Rockfax Description
A long crack-line in a very impressive, smooth-looking wall. Start at a hanging stance at the start of the crack. There used to be a ledge at this point but it has now been reported to have fallen off.
Climb the interesting crack all the way back to the top, taking care with loose ground on the finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There is a small ledge just 2 metres below the start of the crack so a hanging belay isn't needed. A 50 rope reaches this from the stakes. If dry the moves off the ledge to start the crack are consistent with the grade for the rest of the route.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings.

Rhys Deane 22/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Sam Russel
jennyjen 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Its a secret
colin milton 03/Aug/16 Lead

memorable for many reasons but the soaking for Jaffa would be top of the list

with jaffa
manbat 14/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Great, great route. A very long crack pitch, not many of them around in Cornwall to be fair. Super easy/bomber jams the whole way. Eats big nuts and medium sized cams. Obviously it was terrifying, as it was Gowla, the sea was crashing below, and you, rightly or wrongly, assume every hold is going to snap in your hands! Most of the rock seems pretty solid though. Definitely three stars, VS 4c.

with Luke Randall
kingholmesy ??/2016 2nd O/S
with Colin
whiteexplorer 09/Jun/15 TR O/S
with joe, Dave Piper
Tom Seccombe 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Louise Street
Hamish777 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A lovely climb but one that is in a fairly serious situation. The crack will eat size 2 friends and large nuts.

with Andrea
andrea83 31/Aug/14 2nd β
with Hamish
Dilwat 31/Jul/14 2nd rpt

Just as good second time around.

with Dave P
lukegorman 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

excellent climb

JoeCoxson 22/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Points for location, definitely a good spot to be in on a warm evening.

andrea83 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lovely climb, lots of gear, medium sized cams useful++. Serious situation but climbing felt straight forward for the grade. A good VS lead for Hamish to get on.

Brian H 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Superb line and very well protected.

with Andrea
alice fuller 18/Jun/14 Lead β
Avon Man 15/Jun/14 Lead
with msoldn
Alex the Alex 18/May/14 2nd

Very atmospheric! Full on at VS, with an uncomfortable hanging belay and serious position. But the climb is amazing! A very striking sustained crackline, quite technical too.

PilarMartinez 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Great Climb, good protection but you need loads of friends, does not take nuts that well.. Lovely climbing in a very atmospheric place, a bit harder than 4b in some places but stunning crag all teh way up. It gets easier close to the top but the very end top is very loose so good thing the abseil rope is there.

Robin Woodward ?/May/14 Lead

Lovely crack climb which just kept coming with some nice interesting sections!

Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
philhilo 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Superb route. Poss the best VS I have done. Original ledge at the level of the flake has gone. Now smaller ledge 3m below the good gear in the flake crack. 5a moves up to base of the crack.

with Helen E
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead
dready 05/Aug/11 2nd O/S

what a crack outstanding! not so keen on the hanging belay tho but was worth it

with dillwat
Dilwat 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Amazing climb. If you need a definition of what a crack is, this is it. Harder than 4b in places but well protected. Be warned though, if you knock the loose stuff off at the top it drops straight onto the belayers stance at the bottom.

with dready
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 04/May/11 2nd
Dave Heaton 04/May/11 Lead
with James Forbes
victim of mathematics 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Great climbing, up a strong line in a super-atmospheric situation. Take lots of big nuts and hexes!

crossdressingrodney 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Really excellent route. Steep and well protected. Probably helps if you can jam a little.

jakenichol 21/Oct/10 Lead O/S
nickstephens 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S
cornishben 16/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/May/10 Lead
craig.potter ?/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
lrandall ?/Jun/09 2nd
with Alan D
erinbastian 23/Apr/09 2nd
with James Forbes
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
perranman 05/Aug/08 -

A great line, pretty hard for the grade but surrounded by formidable cliffs. Take an ab rope and tie onto it at the top. Remember to bring your slab technique, this is not granite!

Master Chief 13/Dec/07 2nd O/S
jgclimb 13/Dec/07 Lead
with tom dom
Hidden 22/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK 23/May/07 Lead O/S

Sustained 4b with some 4c moves as well. Worth 2 stars. great line, shame about the shitty top part

with Fiend
JackMountains 28/Apr/07 Lead dog

Very hungover, dave was sick on the belay ledge!

with David Hakes
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 28/Aug/04 Lead β
Samuel P 16/Jun/04 2nd
with Tim
Hidden 10/Jun/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/04 Lead
Hidden 10/Oct/02 2nd
kp64zl ?/Jul/02 2nd
with Simon M, David H
nickdonohue 14/Sep/99 Lead
with Mike Thorpe
nickdonohue 27/Mar/99 Lead

First time of many repeats, a superb climb.

with Ashley Hold
Hidden 11/Aug/78 Lead
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 23
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set