18m.

Rockfax Description
A real classic, high in the grade and intimidating too. Climb up to the square roof then traverse onto the arete. Follow this before stepping right to finish up the exposed hanging crack. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Seddon 1960

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit

Feedback

UserDateNotes
clams 20 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I thought this was a bit hard for VS. The move right to access the hanging crack felt solid 5a. I had a good look around before I did the move and think I did it the easiest way. Harder than Route II (Wimberry).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought this was a bit hard for VS. The move right to access the hanging crack felt solid 5a. I had a good look around before I did the move and think I did it the easiest way. Harder than Route II (Wimberry).
Carl Smethurst 8 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Fabulous route - but some VS leaders might find it tough. Sustained climbing with stopper move after stopper move - feels longer than it looks from below. Definitely a 3 star must.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fabulous route - but some VS leaders might find it tough. Sustained climbing with stopper move after stopper move - feels longer than it looks from below. Definitely a 3 star must.
TobyA 23 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Feels quite hard for VS but worth the effort. It is one of the best VS on Grit - equal or better than such famous climbs as Missippi Buttress Direct, Hargreaves Original Route, Chevin Buttress, Pheonix or Valkyrie (Roaches). A must for all VS leaders.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Feels quite hard for VS but worth the effort. It is one of the best VS on Grit - equal or better than such famous climbs as Missippi Buttress Direct, Hargreaves Original Route, Chevin Buttress, Pheonix or Valkyrie (Roaches). A must for all VS leaders.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
pedrosanpb 17 Sep Lead Awesome
with Tony Ryland
Awesome
with Tony Ryland
Tony Ryland 17 Sep 2nd dog Pulled on gear and fell off the big step right It was dark though
with Pete Brown
Pulled on gear and fell off the big step right It was dark though
with Pete Brown
Etta 24 Aug 2nd A hard move, followed by a harder move, then another hard move, then the hardest move, then the crux, then a hard finish. 10/10 I do recommend if you hate yourself. Kidding, it is a nice route, but definitely hard and intimidating, as the guidebook says.
A hard move, followed by a harder move, then another hard move, then the hardest move, then the crux, then a hard finish. 10/10 I do recommend if you hate yourself. Kidding, it is a nice route, but definitely hard and intimidating, as the guidebook says.
Hidden 24 Aug Lead β
simoncov 24 Aug Lead O/S Like an exam for VS climbers ;-) keeps posing question after question, excellent fun. Hollow rocks low down right, I went up the face to under the overhang but it looks better to hand traverse onto the arête earlier, either way great route.
with Etta
Like an exam for VS climbers ;-) keeps posing question after question, excellent fun. Hollow rocks low down right, I went up the face to under the overhang but it looks better to hand traverse onto the arête earlier, either way great route.
with Etta
Hidden 23 May Lead O/S
Ian Ackerley 19 Apr 2nd O/S
with lundyman, Bob Butcher
with lundyman, Bob Butcher
mountaingoatgirl 30 Mar Lead Perfect for a mountain goat!
Perfect for a mountain goat!
AdamFreeman 4 Nov, 2018 2nd O/S
MischaHY 4 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S Full of joyous gritstone cheekiness. Great fun.
Full of joyous gritstone cheekiness. Great fun.
HannahGo 2 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
with Jack Blundy, Sam P
with Jack Blundy, Sam P
devious wally 21 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S Really nice route, vs 5a in my opinion
Really nice route, vs 5a in my opinion
mrphilipoldham 21 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S 400th VS, and it was a good'un! The step right in to the upper crack took a bit of figuring out, hard at 4c. Didn't use me knees though. Raining slightly which made everything greasy too.
400th VS, and it was a good'un! The step right in to the upper crack took a bit of figuring out, hard at 4c. Didn't use me knees though. Raining slightly which made everything greasy too.
georgenvk 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Greylag
with Greylag
Greylag 15 Jul, 2018 2nd Lovely, stretchy move from the wall to the arete. Wasn't over after that but straight up.
Lovely, stretchy move from the wall to the arete. Wasn't over after that but straight up.
Tom Redwood 9 Jun, 2018 Lead
Hidden 9 Jun, 2018 Solo O/S
Vlad Pepper 9 Jun, 2018 2nd
Compo 16 May, 2018 Lead O/S
benrhyd 11 May, 2018 2nd
with Joe Barlow
with Joe Barlow
buxtoncoffeelover 9 May, 2018 Lead Fantastic route - demanding, uncertain, engaging, mildly perplexing, variety of moves, plenty of excellent gear, exhilarating!! The lightly greasy & damp patches, lichen & scrittly surface all added to the sumptuous mix. Brilliant Type 2 fun - very happy to reach the top without messing it up.
Fantastic route - demanding, uncertain, engaging, mildly perplexing, variety of moves, plenty of excellent gear, exhilarating!! The lightly greasy & damp patches, lichen & scrittly surface all added to the sumptuous mix. Brilliant Type 2 fun - very happy to reach the top without messing it up.
cragtyke 9 May, 2018 2nd Nik seemed quite pleased to have lead this in good style
Nik seemed quite pleased to have lead this in good style
Hidden 9 May, 2018 2nd
Kimmie 28 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Adrian De
with Adrian De
Hoyes 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with sim0n
with sim0n
Hidden 28 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
Antony Mariani 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Jo P
with Jo P
Derek Furze 10 May, 2017 2nd Brilliant and pretty imposing climbing. Done before but many years ago
with Clare, Rick
Brilliant and pretty imposing climbing. Done before but many years ago
with Clare, Rick
melv 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
with Fi
with Fi
bryce.dorin 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Corty
with Corty
Hidden 24 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 2nd
Hidden 1 Oct, 2015 2nd
Jules Lane 29 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Great climb but made a real meal of it and had a sneaky pull on the in situ sling. Real variety of moves, all of which are proper 4c (but not IMHO 5a) and all are superb. Agree about the step across - lovely move once you commit, easier with a bigger ape index.
Great climb but made a real meal of it and had a sneaky pull on the in situ sling. Real variety of moves, all of which are proper 4c (but not IMHO 5a) and all are superb. Agree about the step across - lovely move once you commit, easier with a bigger ape index.
Gav Williams 29 Aug, 2015 2nd
AngelaC 5 Jul, 2015 2nd
db79 10 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
keith leonard 9 Jun, 2015 -
Bloke on a Rope 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S What an amazing route! This must be one of the best VSs in the peak, just loads of climbing for the grade. Didn't use my knees either!
What an amazing route! This must be one of the best VSs in the peak, just loads of climbing for the grade. Didn't use my knees either!
Climbster 18 Apr, 2015 2nd β
Matthew Glenn 23 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
sampollitt 21 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 9 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S A hard VS
A hard VS
K Farrell 9 Sep, 2014 2nd dog Fell off trying to reverse some horrid undercut rock over. Also managed to climb past a piece of gear. Not my best.
Fell off trying to reverse some horrid undercut rock over. Also managed to climb past a piece of gear. Not my best.
sgl 8 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Mallard
with Mallard
Nigel Bond 30 Jun, 2014 Lead
with Max Cole
with Max Cole
BenedictIEP 18 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S Proper VS. Was saving this for the lead but oh well.
Proper VS. Was saving this for the lead but oh well.
Hardonicus 18 Jun, 2014 Lead
chelle 18 Jun, 2014 2nd
andybirtwistle 12 Jun, 2014 Lead
keith Lonsdale 12 Jun, 2014 2nd
markfairbank 1 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Anne Fairbank, Ray Sharples
with Anne Fairbank, Ray Sharples
Anne Fairbank 1 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Ray Sharples, markfairbank
with Ray Sharples, markfairbank
Stig 21 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with sishaw
with sishaw
sishaw 21 May, 2014 Lead O/S Struggled on this and would easily give it HVS, good varied climbing, almost enjoyed it!
with Stig
Struggled on this and would easily give it HVS, good varied climbing, almost enjoyed it!
with Stig
spragglerocks 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with Simon
with Simon
Simonj 13 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
with Rach
with Rach
wil_perry 1 Sep, 2013 2nd
Hidden 1 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 10 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
j.buckley87 4 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
richnorgate 17 Feb, 2013 2nd O/S Climb of the day. Superb feeling of exposure when you step out right onto the arete.
with dangmtb
Climb of the day. Superb feeling of exposure when you step out right onto the arete.
with dangmtb
dangmtb 17 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S Deserved 3 star route.. Quality moves lead to great exposure. Really nice move to gain finishing crack then hand jams to finish:). Graded VS but probably at the top end of the grade.
Deserved 3 star route.. Quality moves lead to great exposure. Really nice move to gain finishing crack then hand jams to finish:). Graded VS but probably at the top end of the grade.
neilh ??, 2013 -
Frank the Husky ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
mamboochris 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Great climb. Found pull on to blocky ledge tricky, subsequent move right easy with a positive approach.
Great climb. Found pull on to blocky ledge tricky, subsequent move right easy with a positive approach.
matthewjames 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Katy Whitehead
with Katy Whitehead
Rob Davies 5 Aug, 2012 AltLd Either Phil backed off this and I finished it, or the other war round
with Dave Rimmer, Phil A
Either Phil backed off this and I finished it, or the other war round
with Dave Rimmer, Phil A
jimbonfire 26 May, 2012 Lead O/S
vix 16 May, 2012 Lead Sopping wet near the crux made it extra "fun"
Sopping wet near the crux made it extra "fun"
Hardonicus 16 May, 2012 2nd rpt
with vix
with vix
howlingbaboon 1 Apr, 2012 Lead dnf
Scott Anderson 1 Apr, 2012 2nd
antroy ??, 2012 Lead
steveshaking 30 Oct, 2011 Lead rpt 3rd time this year including a second with D.M, never gets easier, never gets less enjoyable.
3rd time this year including a second with D.M, never gets easier, never gets less enjoyable.
Tony Ryland 30 Oct, 2011 2nd
steveshaking 2 Oct, 2011 Lead rpt Always good, never a formality. One of the best, "sustained variety".
Always good, never a formality. One of the best, "sustained variety".
Andrew Lodge 2 Oct, 2011 2nd
ozzie35 3 Aug, 2011 -
Bowzle 16 Jul, 2011 TR
Steve J P 3 Jul, 2011 2nd Fell at step right - had my left foot too high?
Fell at step right - had my left foot too high?
ryan118116 3 Jul, 2011 2nd
Bernie Wylde 3 Jul, 2011 Lead
MeMeMe 3 Jul, 2011 Lead
with sandy
with sandy
Andy Hardy 1 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Nicola 19 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
with Barra
with Barra
John Lewis 19 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Scarab9
with Scarab9
Hidden 14 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt
thedatastream 14 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2011 Lead
g1m147 11 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Bob
with Bob
ggflett 1 May, 2011 2nd O/S
with john_ni
with john_ni
john_ni 1 May, 2011 Lead O/S hard move right to that upper crack - long stretch both leg & hand to get a decent grip on the necessary hold, took a while to muster it
with ggflett
hard move right to that upper crack - long stretch both leg & hand to get a decent grip on the necessary hold, took a while to muster it
with ggflett
cragtyke 25 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Fragmod
with Fragmod
Graeme Hammond 19 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt Enjoyed this much more today! I was climbing a little better, probably due to it not being baking hot and the ace step across move to access the upper crack was much easier using the big jug I missed last time. Felt like the 3 star experience this time. Bit of a epic retrieving gear by abseil in the dark but all park of the fun :)
with rich_hw
Enjoyed this much more today! I was climbing a little better, probably due to it not being baking hot and the ace step across move to access the upper crack was much easier using the big jug I missed last time. Felt like the 3 star experience this time. Bit of a epic retrieving gear by abseil in the dark but all park of the fun :)
with rich_hw
Hidden 5 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
grubes 29 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hardonicus 29 Jul, 2010 2nd rpt
with Luke Donaldson
with Luke Donaldson
KristianBirchall 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Claire Chadderton
with Claire Chadderton
psychicbread 5 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Max
with Max
PennyL 26 Jun, 2010 Lead β Seconded Arnaud in 2005 and found it hard then so went back today to see how it felt on the lead. Still hard but utterly fantastic - both with the moves and the exposure. Proper VS!!! Seconded Duz on Womanless Wall.
Seconded Arnaud in 2005 and found it hard then so went back today to see how it felt on the lead. Still hard but utterly fantastic - both with the moves and the exposure. Proper VS!!! Seconded Duz on Womanless Wall.
Irn Bruce 31 May, 2010 Lead O/S Fairy TOUGH. Found the step over right onto the arete very difficult, felt more like HVS 5b to me. There must be some sort of grit monkey trick to it but I don't know it
Fairy TOUGH. Found the step over right onto the arete very difficult, felt more like HVS 5b to me. There must be some sort of grit monkey trick to it but I don't know it
Hidden 31 May, 2010 2nd dog
Hidden 19 May, 2010 2nd O/S
willworkforfoodjnr 19 May, 2010 Lead O/S
vix 19 May, 2010 TR O/S
PeteH 15 May, 2010 2nd O/S
with pdufus
with pdufus
Mattyk 17 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Brilliant moves all the way.. lots of suprises. the step right is ace
with John Marsham
Brilliant moves all the way.. lots of suprises. the step right is ace
with John Marsham
Graeme Hammond 10 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S one small damp patch to access the step right which I made a bit of a meal of but still didn't detract from the quality.
with Ketu
one small damp patch to access the step right which I made a bit of a meal of but still didn't detract from the quality.
with Ketu
Ketu 10 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
adi bryant ??, 2010 Lead O/S
doogstrue 19 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
with andy s
with andy s
colin milton 18 Sep, 2009 Lead
with Sari Nevala
with Sari Nevala
Hidden 18 Sep, 2009 2nd
Hidden 28 Jun, 2009 Lead
Rachel S 23 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
with Richard Toon
with Richard Toon
Simon Davenport 21 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S Very nice climb - no exposure like it on a paek VS
with Brian and Dave
Very nice climb - no exposure like it on a paek VS
with Brian and Dave
Paul ablitt 13 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Rushy
with Rushy
Simon Caldwell 13 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S Magnificent. Every time you get past the crux, you're met by another bit just as hard!
with Lemming
Magnificent. Every time you get past the crux, you're met by another bit just as hard!
with Lemming
smudge 1 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S Definitely one of the best VS's on grit, this is better than any of the VS's on Stanage in my humble opinion. Really interesting climbing, great fun.
with Chris Dodd
Definitely one of the best VS's on grit, this is better than any of the VS's on Stanage in my humble opinion. Really interesting climbing, great fun.
with Chris Dodd
Hidden ?Jun, 2009 2nd
Hidden 31 May, 2009 Lead rpt
Andy S 9 May, 2009 2nd dog I was knackered by the time we did this route so I messed-up the crux (tricky little number!). Classic line though. Hard at the grade, I would say, but still VS. Just.
with Bob
I was knackered by the time we did this route so I messed-up the crux (tricky little number!). Classic line though. Hard at the grade, I would say, but still VS. Just.
with Bob
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
RM199 ??, 2009 -
ianburton ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Stuart Wildman 22 Nov, 2008 Lead dnf Was wetting than an Otters Pocket. The face/crack above the roof was soaked, so back climbed. Saving for a dry day (also bloody freezing)
with Gaz Price
Was wetting than an Otters Pocket. The face/crack above the roof was soaked, so back climbed. Saving for a dry day (also bloody freezing)
with Gaz Price
coffeepot 28 Sep, 2008 2nd
with jelaby
with jelaby
aldred 16 Aug, 2008 Lead dnf Too wet and tired to commit to the traverse out to the arete.
Too wet and tired to commit to the traverse out to the arete.
Hidden 6 Jun, 2008 Lead
Matthallinan 5 Jun, 2008 2nd
with Phil Parker
with Phil Parker
plastichead 25 May, 2008 2nd dog
with Max
with Max
taine 11 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Gareth
with Gareth
Hardonicus 11 May, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 Mar, 2008 2nd rpt
jon thompson27 ?Mar, 2008 Lead O/S Crux...just ask my brother, thank God he brought himself a nice fluffy Rab down belay jacket! But I did do it...!!! And Ian Parnell climbed a couple of days after me, so it must be a classic
with Alex Thompson
Crux...just ask my brother, thank God he brought himself a nice fluffy Rab down belay jacket! But I did do it...!!! And Ian Parnell climbed a couple of days after me, so it must be a classic
with Alex Thompson
climber130887 10 Feb, 2008 2nd O/S
with jo smith
with jo smith
nmoysey ??, 2008 Lead
with Ben Vickers
with Ben Vickers
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
Shad ??, 2008 Lead
Ian Parnell 12 Sep, 2007 2nd O/S
with Jon Winter
with Jon Winter
Hidden 12 Aug, 2007 2nd O/S
Crewey-Si 12 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
with Rob
Hidden 12 Aug, 2007 2nd
Hidden 29 Jul, 2007 2nd O/S
Crofty 28 Jul, 2007 Lead Intimidating, but OK once you get going.
with T-Rex
Intimidating, but OK once you get going.
with T-Rex
Hidden 28 Jul, 2007 2nd O/S
Hidden 9 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
Ian Broome 9 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S felt quite bold
felt quite bold
Mick r 28 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S warm up -
warm up -
mattnuttall 17 Apr, 2007 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
Benwa 15 Apr, 2007 2nd
with Alex Hyslop, Nick Tucker
with Alex Hyslop, Nick Tucker
Different Steve 15 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S Tough at the grade!
with Martin Hore & Aaron Willis
Tough at the grade!
with Martin Hore & Aaron Willis
NickST ?Apr, 2007 2nd
Hidden 25 Mar, 2007 2nd O/S
Hardonicus 25 Mar, 2007 Lead
steveb2006 30 Jul, 2006 2nd Roland leads
with Angela Pingram, Roland Smith
Roland leads
with Angela Pingram, Roland Smith
Andrew Lodge 17 Jul, 2006 2nd
steveshaking 17 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S What an adventure
What an adventure
alicia 10 Jun, 2006 2nd
with Ali K
with Ali K
Hidden 10 Jun, 2006 Solo O/S
runestone 28 Apr, 2006 Lead
with J
with J
FrankW 18 Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
with Jane T, Joe
with Jane T, Joe
Owdham 6 Jun, 2005 TR O/S What a superb route. Definately one to return to to lead. well deserved of the 3 stars.
with Matt Scott
What a superb route. Definately one to return to to lead. well deserved of the 3 stars.
with Matt Scott
ArnaudG ?May, 2005 Lead
with Penny
with Penny
Carl Smethurst 8 Sep, 2004 Lead O/S No pushover for VS!
with Chris Shearlock
No pushover for VS!
with Chris Shearlock
r0b 6 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
with Andy Smith
with Andy Smith
lost.arrow 2 Apr, 2004 Lead
Duncan I ??, 2004 Lead
chris sm 7 Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
chrishedgehog 18 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
with Drew
with Drew
EddieA 7 Oct, 2001 2nd
with Dave P
with Dave P
Mark Stevenson 4 Mar, 2000 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli, Dave Greenald
with Karen Ghiselli, Dave Greenald
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
craig h 20 Jun, 1998 2nd rpt
craig h ?Dec, 1997 -
roncaves 13 Jul, 1997 Lead
with James Thomas
with James Thomas
craig h 25 May, 1997 2nd
with Janet Hannah
with Janet Hannah
Phil West 12 Apr, 1997 Lead rpt
with David Atherton
with David Atherton
John Marsland 20 Jul, 1996 Lead
with Dave Soles
with Dave Soles
Hidden 9 Jul, 1995 Lead
Martin Bennett 30 Apr, 1995 -
with MT
with MT
Andy Say 11 Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 14 Aug, 1994 2nd O/S
with Steve Dean
with Steve Dean
Phil West ?Jun, 1994 2nd O/S
with Steve Wild
with Steve Wild
Mike_d78 1 Apr, 1994 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
goi.ashmore 26 Sep, 1993 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
with Simon Coles
StevePr ??, 1992 2nd Fabulous route, one of the best VS`s on grit I have done
with Alan
Fabulous route, one of the best VS`s on grit I have done
with Alan
Hidden ?Sep, 1991 Lead O/S
ste_d 27 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
Roget 24 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
with chris jones, Jonathan T
with chris jones, Jonathan T
craig h 15 Apr, 1991 2nd O/S
with Jim Mellor
with Jim Mellor
nai ??, 1991 2nd
Hidden 29 Apr, 1990 Lead
charlesmfrench 19 May, 1981 Lead
Mark Kemball 22 May, 1980 Solo
Hidden ??, 1980 -
uphillnow ??, 1974 Solo evening session - just about dark as I finished. Later did with George Wilson in 1976
evening session - just about dark as I finished. Later did with George Wilson in 1976
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 66
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set