Rockfax Description
A real classic, high in the grade and intimidating too. Climb up to the square roof then traverse onto the arete. Follow this before stepping right to finish up the exposed hanging crack. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Seddon 1960

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Kimmie 28/Aug/17 2nd
with Adrian De
Hoyes 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Simon C
Hidden 28/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Antony Mariani 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Jo P
Derek Furze 10/May/17 2nd

Brilliant and pretty imposing climbing. Done before but many years ago

with Clare, Rick
melv 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Fi
bryce.dorin 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Corty
Hidden 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 01/Oct/15 2nd
Jules Lane 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Great climb but made a real meal of it and had a sneaky pull on the in situ sling. Real variety of moves, all of which are proper 4c (but not IMHO 5a) and all are superb. Agree about the step across - lovely move once you commit, easier with a bigger ape index.

Gav Williams 29/Aug/15 2nd
AngelaC 05/Jul/15 2nd
db79 10/Jun/15 2nd O/S
keith leonard 09/Jun/15 -
Bloke on a Rope 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

What an amazing route! This must be one of the best VSs in the peak, just loads of climbing for the grade. Didn't use my knees either!

with Vic, Matt
Climbster 18/Apr/15 2nd β
with Ian
Hidden 23/Mar/15 2nd O/S
sampollitt 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S

A hard VS

Hidden 09/Sep/14 2nd dog
sgl 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Mallard
Nigel Bond 30/Jun/14 Lead
with Max Cole
BenedictIEP 18/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Proper VS. Was saving this for the lead but oh well.

Hardonicus 18/Jun/14 Lead
chelle 18/Jun/14 2nd
with Ben
andybirtwistle 12/Jun/14 Lead
keith Lonsdale 12/Jun/14 2nd
markfairbank 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Anne Gumbley, Ray Sharples
Anne Gumbley 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Ray Sharples, Mark Fairbank
Stig 21/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/May/14 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Simon
Simonj 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Rach
wil_perry 01/Sep/13 2nd
mike_w18 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

hard for the grade, but good.

with Will
Jim Slater 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
j.buckley87 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
richnorgate 17/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Climb of the day. Superb feeling of exposure when you step out right onto the arete.

with Dan
dangmtb 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Deserved 3 star route.. Quality moves lead to great exposure. Really nice move to gain finishing crack then hand jams to finish:). Graded VS but probably at the top end of the grade.

neilh ??/2013 -
Frank the Husky ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
mamboochris 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Great climb. Found pull on to blocky ledge tricky, subsequent move right easy with a positive approach.

matthewjames 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Katy Whitehead
Rob Davies 05/Aug/12 AltLd

Either Phil backed off this and I finished it, or the other war round

with Dave Rimmer, Phil Ashton
jimbonfire 26/May/12 Lead O/S
vix 16/May/12 Lead

Sopping wet near the crux made it extra "fun"

with Haydn
Hardonicus 16/May/12 2nd rpt
with vix
howlingbaboon 01/Apr/12 Lead dnf
with Scott
Scott Anderson 01/Apr/12 2nd
antroy ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 30/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Tony Ryland 30/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Andrew Lodge 02/Oct/11 2nd
with Steve
ozzie35 03/Aug/11 -
Bowzle 16/Jul/11 TR
Steve J P 03/Jul/11 2nd

Fell at step right - had my left foot too high?

with BW
ryan118116 03/Jul/11 2nd
Bernie Wylde 03/Jul/11 Lead
with rg, sp
MeMeMe 03/Jul/11 Lead
with Andy
Andy Hardy 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Nicola 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Lee
John Lewis 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead rpt
thedatastream 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead
g1m147 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Bob
ggflett 01/May/11 2nd O/S
john_ni 01/May/11 Lead O/S

hard move right to that upper crack - long stretch both leg & hand to get a decent grip on the necessary hold, took a while to muster it

cragtyke 25/Apr/11 2nd
Graeme Hammond 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Enjoyed this much more today! I was climbing a little better, probably due to it not being baking hot and the ace step across move to access the upper crack was much easier using the big jug I missed last time. Felt like the 3 star experience this time. Bit of a epic retrieving gear by abseil in the dark but all park of the fun :)

Hidden 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S
grubes 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Haydn
Hardonicus 29/Jul/10 2nd rpt
with Luke Donaldson
psychicbread 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Max
PenJD 26/Jun/10 Lead β

Seconded Arnaud in 2005 and found it hard then so went back today to see how it felt on the lead. Still hard but utterly fantastic - both with the moves and the exposure. Proper VS!!! Seconded Duz on Womanless Wall.

Irn Bruce 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Fairy TOUGH. Found the step over right onto the arete very difficult, felt more like HVS 5b to me. There must be some sort of grit monkey trick to it but I don't know it

Hidden 31/May/10 2nd dog
Hidden 19/May/10 2nd O/S
willworkforfoodjnr 19/May/10 Lead O/S
vix 19/May/10 TR O/S
with chris
PeteH 15/May/10 2nd O/S
Mattyk 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant moves all the way.. lots of suprises. the step right is ace

with John Marsham
Graeme Hammond 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

one small damp patch to access the step right which I made a bit of a meal of but still didn't detract from the quality.

with Rob
Ketu 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
adi bryant ??/2010 Lead O/S
doogstrue 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with andy s
colin milton 18/Sep/09 Lead
with Sari Nevala
Hidden 18/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead
Rachel S 23/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Richard Toon
Simon Davenport 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Very nice climb - no exposure like it on a paek VS

with Brian and Dave
Paul ablitt 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Simon Caldwell 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Magnificent. Every time you get past the crux, you're met by another bit just as hard!

with Carmen
smudge 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Definitely one of the best VS's on grit, this is better than any of the VS's on Stanage in my humble opinion. Really interesting climbing, great fun.

with Chris Dodd
Hidden ?/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead rpt
Andy S 09/May/09 2nd dog

I was knackered by the time we did this route so I messed-up the crux (tricky little number!). Classic line though. Hard at the grade, I would say, but still VS. Just.

with Bob
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
RM199 ??/2009 -
ianburton ??/2009 Lead O/S
Stuart Wildman 22/Nov/08 Lead dnf

Was wetting than an Otters Pocket. The face/crack above the roof was soaked, so back climbed. Saving for a dry day (also bloody freezing)

with Gaz Price
coffeepot 28/Sep/08 2nd
with jelaby
aldred 16/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Too wet and tired to commit to the traverse out to the arete.

Hidden 06/Jun/08 Lead
Matthallinan 05/Jun/08 2nd
with Phil Parker
plastichead 25/May/08 2nd dog
with Max
taine 11/May/08 2nd O/S
with Gareth
Hardonicus 11/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/08 2nd rpt
jon thompson27 ?/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Crux...just ask my brother, thank God he brought himself a nice fluffy Rab down belay jacket! But I did do it...!!! And Ian Parnell climbed a couple of days after me, so it must be a classic

with Alex Thompson
climber130887 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with jo smith
nmoysey ??/2008 Lead
with Ben Vickers
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Shad ??/2008 Lead
Ian Parnell 12/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Jon Winter
Hidden 12/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Crewey-Si 12/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 12/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 29/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead
Hidden 28/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Ian Broome 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S

felt quite bold

Mick r 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S

warm up -

with Tony H
mattnuttall 17/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Benwa 15/Apr/07 2nd
with Alex Hyslop, Nick Tucker
Different Steve 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Tough at the grade!

with Martin Hore & Aaron Willis
NickST ?/Apr/07 2nd
Hidden 25/Mar/07 2nd O/S
Hardonicus 25/Mar/07 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/06 2nd
Andrew Lodge 17/Jul/06 2nd
with Steve
Hidden 17/Jul/06 Lead O/S
alicia 10/Jun/06 2nd
with Ali K
Hidden 10/Jun/06 Solo O/S
runestone 28/Apr/06 Lead
with J
FrankW 18/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Jane T, Joe
Owdham 06/Jun/05 TR O/S

What a superb route. Definately one to return to to lead. well deserved of the 3 stars.

with Matt Scott
ArnaudG ?/May/05 Lead
with Penny
Carl Smethurst 08/Sep/04 Lead O/S

No pushover for VS!

with Chris Shearlock
r0b 06/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Andy Smith
lost.arrow 02/Apr/04 Lead
Duncan I ??/2004 Lead
chris sm 07/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
chrishedgehog 18/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Drew
EddieA 07/Oct/01 2nd
with Dave P
Mark Stevenson 04/Mar/00 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli, Dave Greenald
Bullybones ??/2000 -
craig h 20/Jun/98 2nd rpt
craig h ?/Dec/97 -
roncaves 13/Jul/97 Lead
with James Thomas
craig h 25/May/97 2nd
with Janet Hannah
Phil West 12/Apr/97 Lead rpt
with David Atherton
John Marsland 20/Jul/96 Lead
with Dave Soles
Chris Ellis 09/Jul/95 Lead
with Louise Pellett
Martin Bennett 30/Apr/95 -
with MT
Andy Say 11/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 14/Aug/94 2nd dnf
with Steve Dean
Phil West ?/Jun/94 2nd O/S
with Steve Wild
nokishatov 01/Apr/94 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 26/Sep/93 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
StevePr ??/1992 2nd

Fabulous route, one of the best VS`s on grit I have done

with Alan
Hidden ?/Sep/91 Lead O/S
ste_d 27/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with mik
Roget 24/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with chris jones, Jonathan T
craig h 15/Apr/91 2nd O/S
with Jim Mellor
nai ??/1991 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/90 Lead
charlesmfrench 19/May/81 Lead
Mark Kemball 22/May/80 Solo
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
uphillnow ??/1974 Solo

evening session - just about dark as I finished. Later did with George Wilson in 1976

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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 58
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set