18m.

Rockfax Description
A fine open classic and high in the grade. Climb direct (loose block) or from the right to a huge flake, move up to some big rounded pockets then traverse right to a final steep crack. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Howard 1958

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit

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UserDateNotes
shaun walby 28 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Second what craig has said......i felt my second drop at the start, the block comes out on you like a draw opening, he pushed it back and fell onto the ropes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second what craig has said......i felt my second drop at the start, the block comes out on you like a draw opening, he pushed it back and fell onto the ropes.
craig h 1 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There is a large, loose horizontal flake at the start of the route. Avoid pulling outwards on it or placing gear behind it. It would hurt your toes if it was to drop.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a large, loose horizontal flake at the start of the route. Avoid pulling outwards on it or placing gear behind it. It would hurt your toes if it was to drop.
shaun walby 12 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable 4b climbing all the way, superb position with good gear...excellent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable 4b climbing all the way, superb position with good gear...excellent.
Simon Caldwell 8 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I traversed with my hands at that level and reckon it's definitely 4c. My partner, seconding, did it as a foot traverse and it's more like 5a/b, but you'd have excellent gear at your feet so a fall shouldn't be too serious even then.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I traversed with my hands at that level and reckon it's definitely 4c. My partner, seconding, did it as a foot traverse and it's more like 5a/b, but you'd have excellent gear at your feet so a fall shouldn't be too serious even then.
craig h 8 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The climb is VS 4b, but I think there is some confusion on which level to traverse after reaching the pockets. The line in the rockfax topo looks to be too high, the wall should be traversed with your hands at the same level as the pockets, there has been some accidents with people traversing at a higher level – feet level with the pockets. Nice climbing worth doing on a visit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The climb is VS 4b, but I think there is some confusion on which level to traverse after reaching the pockets. The line in the rockfax topo looks to be too high, the wall should be traversed with your hands at the same level as the pockets, there has been some accidents with people traversing at a higher level – feet level with the pockets. Nice climbing worth doing on a visit.
Duncan I 28 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: There's no particular move that's worth 4c but it's sustained at 4b from when you cut loose off the arete. Keep your eyes open and just keep telling yourself that the holds will appear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's no particular move that's worth 4c but it's sustained at 4b from when you cut loose off the arete. Keep your eyes open and just keep telling yourself that the holds will appear!
Simon Caldwell 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Could do with a 'fluttery heart' symbol, protection is well below your feet for the crux. I thought this high in the grade for VS 4c, no idea where the '4b' comes from. An excellent route, varied and sustained.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Could do with a 'fluttery heart' symbol, protection is well below your feet for the crux. I thought this high in the grade for VS 4c, no idea where the '4b' comes from. An excellent route, varied and sustained.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 21 Sep Lead rpt
Hidden 21 Sep Lead rpt
simoncov 24 Aug Lead O/S Steady VS but hard to on-sight beacause you have to really commit to holds and gear without being able to judge from below. I found excellent holds and gear where I needed it but still managed to make a bit of a mess. Struggled on start then struggled with head to go up the face and out right - was very exciting - then I couldn't figure out where to traverse right, needed to go further right & lower than expected. Wasn't the prettiest but happy to have fought up another excellent route.
with Etta
Steady VS but hard to on-sight beacause you have to really commit to holds and gear without being able to judge from below. I found excellent holds and gear where I needed it but still managed to make a bit of a mess. Struggled on start then struggled with head to go up the face and out right - was very exciting - then I couldn't figure out where to traverse right, needed to go further right & lower than expected. Wasn't the prettiest but happy to have fought up another excellent route.
with Etta
Etta 24 Aug 2nd Liked this one. Very intimidating from the ground, but ok once you are on it, and the holds are exactly where they should be. Guess if it's not jamming I can climb VS.
Liked this one. Very intimidating from the ground, but ok once you are on it, and the holds are exactly where they should be. Guess if it's not jamming I can climb VS.
Hidden 24 Aug Lead G/U
deacondeacon 24 Aug Lead
Hidden 28 Jun 2nd O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 18 Apr Lead Double ropes would be sensible - zigzagging without decent extenders caused serious drag. Straight up & right finishes were horrible, but out left (where E1 finishes) was exciting & easy (but made for even more drag!)
with smoreda
Double ropes would be sensible - zigzagging without decent extenders caused serious drag. Straight up & right finishes were horrible, but out left (where E1 finishes) was exciting & easy (but made for even more drag!)
with smoreda
smoreda 18 Apr 2nd Excellent! and an adventure!
Excellent! and an adventure!
HannahGo 10 Apr 2nd
with Jack Blundy
with Jack Blundy
dom94 30 Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Mar 2nd O/S
bymlht 26 Feb -
Tony Holdsworth 10 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with Joanna House, Nick Mitchell
with Joanna House, Nick Mitchell
devious wally 21 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
mrphilipoldham 21 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S Class this, right up Rob's street. A good thuggy hand traverse.
Class this, right up Rob's street. A good thuggy hand traverse.
Calum Wadsworth 1 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Not as good as the photo in the book made it look, but still well worth doing.
with Calum Irvine
Not as good as the photo in the book made it look, but still well worth doing.
with Calum Irvine
Duncan Beard 9 Jun, 2018 2nd I led up to the start of the right traverse but failed to place gear in the pocket. I stood up a move too high & subsequently fell onto a hex behind the big flake, sustaining minor injuries. Seconded ok after Pip but traverse strenuous on fingers. As top out was dodgy we finished with a final nice traverse left on a good foot ledge to the arête. Make sure you get a cam in the left pocket!
with Pip McCarthy
I led up to the start of the right traverse but failed to place gear in the pocket. I stood up a move too high & subsequently fell onto a hex behind the big flake, sustaining minor injuries. Seconded ok after Pip but traverse strenuous on fingers. As top out was dodgy we finished with a final nice traverse left on a good foot ledge to the arête. Make sure you get a cam in the left pocket!
with Pip McCarthy
benrhyd 11 May, 2018 Lead
with Joe Barlow
with Joe Barlow
dan_o_b 12 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Tubs 3 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
with Dale
with Dale
Derek Furze 10 May, 2017 2nd Great climbing throughout.
with Clare, Rick
Great climbing throughout.
with Clare, Rick
gmatthew 9 Apr, 2017 -
Cake 29 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Really good and steep
Really good and steep
Hidden 29 Aug, 2016 2nd
bryce.dorin 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Corty
with Corty
Hidden 24 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
peachos 2 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Nice moves on traverse after I stopped shitting my pants.
with grizz
Nice moves on traverse after I stopped shitting my pants.
with grizz
Hidden 1 Oct, 2015 2nd
Andy Peak 1 1 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
manwithacam 23 Jun, 2015 Lead Evening climbing, so crag not in sun, but warm and lovely spot. Great moorland rock.
with Sarah
Evening climbing, so crag not in sun, but warm and lovely spot. Great moorland rock.
with Sarah
Hidden 23 Jun, 2015 2nd
db79 10 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Fantastic climb. Shame the top saw me pulling on heather.
Fantastic climb. Shame the top saw me pulling on heather.
Hidden 10 Jun, 2015 2nd rpt
Bloke on a Rope 18 Apr, 2015 2nd β
Climbster 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Scott Anderson 4 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Really great climbing, with a good sense of exposure
with Max
Really great climbing, with a good sense of exposure
with Max
WillCass 27 Jul, 2014 Lead
with Monika
with Monika
Nigel Bond 30 Jun, 2014 Lead
with Max Cole
with Max Cole
BenedictIEP 18 Jun, 2014 Lead β Clipped a cam from Alex's failed ascent of 'The trouble with women...' Traverse holds very wet but absolutely massive. 4b for certain.
Clipped a cam from Alex's failed ascent of 'The trouble with women...' Traverse holds very wet but absolutely massive. 4b for certain.
Hardonicus 18 Jun, 2014 2nd
andybirtwistle 12 Jun, 2014 Lead Getting a little tired of Rockfax(presumably their consensus groups) down grading classic climbs.This route is VS 4c and sending a 4b climber up it is likely to result in a nasty accident!Its a gritstone VS 4c and should stay that way!
Getting a little tired of Rockfax(presumably their consensus groups) down grading classic climbs.This route is VS 4c and sending a 4b climber up it is likely to result in a nasty accident!Its a gritstone VS 4c and should stay that way!
keith Lonsdale 12 Jun, 2014 2nd
Stig 21 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with sishaw
with sishaw
sishaw 21 May, 2014 2nd
with Stig
with Stig
jlismore 10 Aug, 2013 Lead
Jim Slater 10 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Just Another Dave 3 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko 21 Jul, 2013 2nd I suspect the section around the end of the traverse never really dries out - it has been hot and dry for the last 3 weeks! Excellent route on superb rock, but 4b seems a little inadequate. A route where a confident approach pays off.
with Ade W
I suspect the section around the end of the traverse never really dries out - it has been hot and dry for the last 3 weeks! Excellent route on superb rock, but 4b seems a little inadequate. A route where a confident approach pays off.
with Ade W
j.buckley87 4 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Jules Lane 3 Jun, 2013 Lead dog Fantastic. Took a fall at end of the traverse first time and luckily the cam in the pocket was bomber. This works quite well as you are deposited back on the big flake after the swing ! Went back for a round two and got up it fine, even thought parts of the upper crack were wet. At the top go right, as suggested by Rockfax, not left as indicated by the new Over The Moors guide.
with Mynydd Mark W
Fantastic. Took a fall at end of the traverse first time and luckily the cam in the pocket was bomber. This works quite well as you are deposited back on the big flake after the swing ! Went back for a round two and got up it fine, even thought parts of the upper crack were wet. At the top go right, as suggested by Rockfax, not left as indicated by the new Over The Moors guide.
with Mynydd Mark W
scottidog 7 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
with Graeme
with Graeme
Hidden 28 Feb, 2013 2nd
Wil Treasure 28 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
richnorgate 17 Feb, 2013 2nd O/S Great climb, would be nice to revisit when it's not as wet on the upper section.
with dangmtb
Great climb, would be nice to revisit when it's not as wet on the upper section.
with dangmtb
dangmtb 17 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S Another excellent route. Traverse feels quite bold. Finishing crack very wet..
Another excellent route. Traverse feels quite bold. Finishing crack very wet..
Frank the Husky ??, 2013 -
Hidden 10 Aug, 2012 2nd
Hidden 22 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
ClimberJimmyB 22 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
john.gaffney 22 Jul, 2012 2nd
JimD58 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Fragmod 26 May, 2012 Lead
tsl42 26 May, 2012 2nd O/S Lovely.
with Fragmod
Lovely.
with Fragmod
jimbonfire 26 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 2nd
MeMeMe 3 Jul, 2011 2nd
with sandy
with sandy
BLodge 8 May, 2011 2nd
cragtyke 25 Apr, 2011 Lead
with Fragmod
with Fragmod
Hardonicus 20 Apr, 2011 2nd rpt
with Chris Surfleet
with Chris Surfleet
vix 20 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with J25
with J25
J25 20 Apr, 2011 2nd
with vix
with vix
willworkforfoodjnr 20 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 19 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Probably a really good climb in better conditions but didn't notice how wet the upper section was in places (from the traverse from the large pocket onwards) and the top out was vegetated and doggy!! not the best warm up!! One to do again when not wet.
with rich_hw
Probably a really good climb in better conditions but didn't notice how wet the upper section was in places (from the traverse from the large pocket onwards) and the top out was vegetated and doggy!! not the best warm up!! One to do again when not wet.
with rich_hw
Hidden 5 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
KristianBirchall 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Claire Chadderton
with Claire Chadderton
Hidden 30 Jun, 2010 2nd
Duz Walker 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Hmm, SWING is the operative word here indicating hand traversing the monster positive holds, NOT a pebble pulling scary delicate foot traverse. Great route, mini epic (as usual) utterly avoidable with calmness and forethought.
with Penny
Hmm, SWING is the operative word here indicating hand traversing the monster positive holds, NOT a pebble pulling scary delicate foot traverse. Great route, mini epic (as usual) utterly avoidable with calmness and forethought.
with Penny
Duz Walker 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Hmm, SWING is the operative word here indicating hand traversing the monster positive holds, NOT a pebble pulling scary delicate foot traverse. Great route, mini epic (as usual) utterly avoidable with calmness and forethought.
with Penny
Hmm, SWING is the operative word here indicating hand traversing the monster positive holds, NOT a pebble pulling scary delicate foot traverse. Great route, mini epic (as usual) utterly avoidable with calmness and forethought.
with Penny
Hidden 19 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Andrew Lodge 17 May, 2010 2nd
steveshaking 17 May, 2010 Lead β Clean lead second time around 5 years on.
Clean lead second time around 5 years on.
NaomiHart 15 May, 2010 2nd O/S
with Noel Peatfield, PeteH
with Noel Peatfield, PeteH
PeteH 15 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Barry D 27 Apr, 2010 Lead
with Ian W
with Ian W
embob 17 Apr, 2010 2nd Excellent rock, loads more positive than it appears from the ground. Thoroughly enjoyed it!
with alik b
Excellent rock, loads more positive than it appears from the ground. Thoroughly enjoyed it!
with alik b
Hidden 17 Apr, 2010 Lead
Stuart Wildman 17 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
with Andy Potter
with Andy Potter
adi bryant ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Sep, 2009 2nd
colin milton 18 Sep, 2009 Lead
with Sari Nevala
with Sari Nevala
Hidden 18 Sep, 2009 2nd
Simon Davenport 21 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S Nice climb a little et in the upper part
with Brian and Dave
Nice climb a little et in the upper part
with Brian and Dave
Hardonicus 22 Apr, 2009 Lead rpt
Rachel S 19 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
with Graham Booth, Natalie Treadgold and Ali Wood
with Graham Booth, Natalie Treadgold and Ali Wood
pog100 18 Apr, 2009 2nd nice
nice
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
Graham Booth 1 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Natalie Treadgold, Rachel Somerville
with Natalie Treadgold, Rachel Somerville
RM199 ??, 2009 -
Hidden 20 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 23 Aug, 2008 Lead Was a bit damp but still climable. Low in the grade.
Was a bit damp but still climable. Low in the grade.
Hidden 6 Jun, 2008 2nd
Matthallinan 5 Jun, 2008 Lead
with Phil Parker
with Phil Parker
skittles 31 May, 2008 2nd O/S Jon started the lead then went off route, and took a big whiper, so seemore finished off the route, but as i had to get the cam out which was about 2 meters above the travese ledge where vardy went off route again on his 2nd attempt, i decided to move across using my feet on the ledge...wouldn't recomend it.
with Gareth Watkins, Jonathan Vardy
Jon started the lead then went off route, and took a big whiper, so seemore finished off the route, but as i had to get the cam out which was about 2 meters above the travese ledge where vardy went off route again on his 2nd attempt, i decided to move across using my feet on the ledge...wouldn't recomend it.
with Gareth Watkins, Jonathan Vardy
Hidden 31 May, 2008 2nd
craig h 21 May, 2008 2nd rpt
with Rich B
with Rich B
HimTiggins 10 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Mar, 2008 Lead O/S
climber130887 10 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Feb, 2008 2nd O/S
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
psychicbread 29 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Max
with Max
Rob Davies 27 Aug, 2007 Lead rpt Not easy for VS 4b
with Phil A
Not easy for VS 4b
with Phil A
Hidden 9 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 9 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
JMarkW 2 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with Karl Walton
with Karl Walton
alicia 10 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with Ali K
with Ali K
Hidden 10 Jun, 2006 Solo O/S
runestone 28 Apr, 2006 Lead
with J
with J
John Marsland 2 Jul, 2005 Lead
with Ant Williams and John Haslam
with Ant Williams and John Haslam
FrankW 18 Jun, 2005 2nd O/S
with Jane T, Joe
with Jane T, Joe
shaun walby 11 Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
with Chris Tan
with Chris Tan
ArnaudG ?May, 2005 Lead
with Penny
with Penny
steveshaking 24 Apr, 2005 Lead dog
with Bob
with Bob
r0b 6 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
with Andy Smith
with Andy Smith
Simon Caldwell 24 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
with Lemming
with Lemming
Duncan I ??, 2004 Lead
Phil West 19 Oct, 2002 2nd rpt
with Chris Tan
with Chris Tan
Roget 21 Jul, 2002 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 14 Jul, 2002 Lead
roncaves 13 Jul, 1997 Lead
with James Thomas
with James Thomas
craig h 25 May, 1997 2nd
with Janet Hannah
with Janet Hannah
Phil West 12 Apr, 1997 Lead O/S
with David Atherton
with David Atherton
StevePr ??, 1997 2nd
with Alan
with Alan
Martin Bennett 30 Apr, 1995 -
with MT
with MT
Andy Say 11 Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 14 Aug, 1994 2nd O/S Very undergraded for 'VS 4b'
with Steve Dean
Very undergraded for 'VS 4b'
with Steve Dean
Martin Bennett 17 Jun, 1994 -
with Barry Hurst
with Barry Hurst
ste_d 14 May, 1994 -
Mike_d78 1 Apr, 1994 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
Rob Davies 31 Jul, 1993 2nd
with Roy Lindsay
with Roy Lindsay
craig h 7 Jun, 1992 Lead O/S
with Jo, Gavin and Matt K
with Jo, Gavin and Matt K
ste_d 12 May, 1992 2nd O/S
steveb2006 7 Sep, 1991 Lead
with Brian Hamilton
with Brian Hamilton
Dave Musgrove 17 Jun, 1989 Solo
uphillnow ??, 1976 Lead Evening session after school - with George Wilson?
Evening session after school - with George Wilson?
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 40
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set