Rockfax Description
18m. The narrow hanging fissure is approached via steep crack and proves to be awkward and strenuous. Exit rightwards. © Rockfax

FA. Ray Evans 1966

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Classic Wilton Workout.

Alice Thompson 02/Sep Lead O/S
with Miles
Martin Haworth 09/Jul Lead O/S

Felt tough for E1, really good route though.

Rob Kinsey 05/Jul Lead O/S
with Gwyn
Brannock 01/Jul Lead O/S

More like e2

Hidden 14/Jun Lead O/S
Nafclimbsrocks 28/May TR rpt
Elliot King LC&CC 25/May Lead rpt

Had a rest this time after clean onsite first time around, my excuse is I was quite tired has as I've done a lots of routes this day!

with Adam
NeilGriffiths 25/May Lead
with John Sealy, Adrian Pedley
jon22 25/May 2nd
with Neil Griffith
Nafclimbsrocks 18/May TR O/S
Lenny 10/May 2nd O/S
with Tom
Tommy_shaw 10/May Lead O/S
NickJH 07/May TR rpt

Shunt - v.dry

Mike W 01/May Lead O/S
with chris
Chriswallis2 01/May Lead β

Clipped Mike's gear.

with Mike W
Graeme Hammond 25/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Great climbing E1 max (not sure how it is E2 in latest BMC and Rockfax guides), have done many harder HVSs. Climbed very cautiously expecting it to get really hard/bolder but you can have excellent overhead gear on large parts of the route. Really enjoyed though, and if it is in a decent (not to green) condition this is easily worth 2*s

with Andy G
phil64 01/Oct/16 Lead rpt

a bit damp but a good fight

with Jim mitchell
steveleahy 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Matt Foot
DavidR 18/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Leo Woodhead 03/Jun/16 2nd rpt
atom 08/May/16 TR O/S

Really enjoyed this, gear looks good all the way, would love to lead this one day

Becks87 08/May/16 TR dog

Had to rest on the rope the first time after going wrong just below the chimney. Did it clean second time. Pretty dirty, but fun climb.

with Laura Zambianchi, Adam Lindley
john_mx 22/Apr/16 2nd
JenShelley 22/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with John Rogers
tessa teapot ??/2016 Lead
AndyPratt88 28/Sep/15 2nd RP
with Jim
JimHolmes69 28/Sep/15 Lead O/S


Jacob Bloodworth 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
NickJH 13/Sep/15 2nd rpt
with LiamG
Andy Peak 1 06/Sep/15 Lead

Hvs at most! My arse

with Andrew Deckon
The Grist 06/Sep/15 2nd
mitseb 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Dan Mckinlay ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 17/Aug/15 Lead

Neil kindly went up to place 1st couple of runners. Lots of gear (small cams etc.), decent rests, so hard E1 seems right, but I nearly fell off near top.

JenShelley 06/Aug/15 2nd dog
with Mike
MichaelGallimore 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Derek Furze 30/Jul/15 2nd

Cold, damp and dirty, but great climbing somehow! Definitely E2!

with Duncan Parker
redshapedfriday 18/Jul/15 2nd dog
GPN 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Very good and definitely E2.

John Jefferies 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Alex B
drolex 24/Jun/15 2nd
with JohnJ
TraverseKing 21/Jun/15 -
TraverseKing 21/Jun/15 -
TraverseKing 16/Jun/15 -
TraverseKing 16/Jun/15 -
TraverseKing 16/Jun/15 -
j.buckley87 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Great route and very enjoyable, requires more thinking than central route and probably easier to fall off, so would say it should be E2

TraverseKing 23/Apr/15 -
TraverseKing 23/Apr/15 -
Leo Woodhead 15/Feb/15 Lead rpt

Repeat ascent. Wet conditions, slimy and lots of fun!

with Joe Hook
ben1987 30/Sep/14 2nd
BTphonehome 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Tony
tmawer 28/Sep/14 Lead rpt

About 38 years since I last led this....still good!

with Bram
DavidR 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 07/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Andy Wilson
Andrew Wilson 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
Bloke on a Rope 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

This felt about right for a mid grade E2 for me.

with Matt
Climbster 26/Jul/14 2nd RP

2nd go, after dropping the starting sequence

with Ian
Leo Woodhead 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S

What a route. If it was clean it'd get 3 stars in my book. Not sure why it says E1 on here, definitely E2 in my opinion. Harder than other E1's in Wilton and there are a few tricky moves once you get into the chimney. With a little more traffic it'd be a classic!

with Ian W
The Grist 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Alan Barnes
Robb Bert 25/Jun/14 -
Stig 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Definitive E2 5b. Why would anyone think otherwise? Would be a bit easier if ever clean. Very good though.

with Greg
Paul Clarke ??/2014 AltLd
with Andy Dunhill, Dave Sharples
masa-alpin 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Good moves - I liked it!

with Max C
Elliot King LC&CC 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Tough start fell off on bomber nut need To pay attention to placing better gear okay not wasting time placing crap tough chimney first E2 5b clean but struggle!! Learn to climb with more style!!

with pep
Diggler 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Easy E2 but bloody awkward.

with Calder
Calder 10/Jul/13 2nd
with Mark
akhughes 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Elliot France
bwestwood 10/Jun/13 2nd
pie_eater_pete 10/Jun/13 Lead β
with bwestwood
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
nepsoi999 22/May/12 Lead O/S

Interesting great route

with pete
stumbler555 16/May/12 Lead O/S

With Pete. Savage chimney, almost blew my ring out on this one. fantastic fun. if it wasn't so dirty it would easy be three stars. E2.

Clay C 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Jay
Jay C 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Clay C
Adam Lincoln 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Meg
lancashirelass 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with kjbix
kjbix 27/Jul/11 Lead
Tony Holdsworth 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Peter Harris
JasRY 02/Jul/11 2nd
with Paul Coxon
PeteH 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Great route. Bit minging in places, unfortunately, but the necessary holds were clean, plenty of bomber gear and sustained interest without being too tough.

with Jude Harvie, Noel Peatfield
khawk 30/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with DT
Hidden 09/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Cragrat Rich 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Grubby route but enjoyable in a kind of sick adventurous way. I took a while sussing out the chimney moves, which went fairly steady in the end

Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
clive-greenwood 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
Bob 17/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with M. Bullough & S. Brock
Hidden ??/2010 2nd O/S
stevebarratt ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Gareth Watkins
dave mann ??/2010 -
efrance24234 ??/2010 -
dannyboy83 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
Dave Rumney 05/Jul/09 2nd
with Sean Roberts
wahniel 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S

This used to get E2!!! It was then my finest onsight and I gave it 2,5 stars, mainly because I got up it. It is a bit of a sandy grovel really. Shame about the downgrade - it's true though I guess.

with Hugh Squire
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
John Southworth 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ru
Fred Sergeant 02/May/09 2nd dog
with Jim Holmes
Hidden 23/Apr/09 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
khawk 24/Jul/08 Lead
with DT
tlmarjot ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Freeman
joe larner 15/May/08 2nd
Tom Phillips 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with leo
Leofallon 11/May/08 2nd
galpinos 27/Aug/07 2nd dog

1 rest

with Nick V
Tom Phillips 03/Apr/07 2nd
with Jarek
Jarin 03/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Tom
greylag ??/2007 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Iggy_B ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S

This is E2.

with David Bisset
r0b 12/Jun/04 2nd
with Mark Humphries
Mark A Humphries 12/Jun/04 Lead O/S

This is E2

with Andy
Hidden 25/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
ElArt ??/1997 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
mattnuttall 03/Aug/90 Lead
with Alan Holden
jlancashire ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Roget ??/1989 Lead O/S
with chris jones, jim
Enty ??/1988 -
Derek Ryden ??/1986 2nd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
johno072 ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 10/Aug/83 Lead O/S
tmawer 26/Aug/77 Lead
with brother, Rick, Andy
Mark Kemball 05/Aug/77 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 57
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set