18m.

Rockfax Description
The narrow hanging fissure is accessed via a steep crack. Take a rest before the chimney then struggle up it to a dirty but well-protected exit. © Rockfax

FA. Ray Evans 1966

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Classic Wilton Workout

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UserDateNotes
Iggy_B 24 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Some excellent moves up the chimney but not well protected exit if you don't have any big wires or cams left, a size 2 cam or a big nut will do. Watch out for the top it's mostly loose and when your last runner is in the chimney itself that makes for a scarier exit, a nicely sustained route worth at least 2 stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some excellent moves up the chimney but not well protected exit if you don't have any big wires or cams left, a size 2 cam or a big nut will do. Watch out for the top it's mostly loose and when your last runner is in the chimney itself that makes for a scarier exit, a nicely sustained route worth at least 2 stars.
Frank the Husky 31 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: we trundled a big block from the top today,there's still another one to come...be careful out there!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: we trundled a big block from the top today,there's still another one to come...be careful out there!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
will9911 23 Jul Lead O/S
with Tony Madden
with Tony Madden
Hidden 15 Jul 2nd rpt
Jon Read 15 Jul 2nd rpt
with Dan-gerMouse, Matt / Fiend
with Dan-gerMouse, Matt / Fiend
Jon Read 4 Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Jul 2nd O/S
ClimbCJH 3 Jul 2nd
Frank the Husky 22 Jun -
with Irish George
with Irish George
Thomasstewart ?Jun Lead
Hidden 16 May Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 14 May Lead O/S 3 *** any day of the week.
with Pete Cresswell
3 *** any day of the week.
with Pete Cresswell
Thomasstewart ?May Lead
Adamnoblett 30 Apr 2nd O/S
onefootholdinthegrave ?? Lead
Stuart Walker 30 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
MaxPrescott 30 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
chiverstom 2 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
ambrooker 2 Sep, 2018 2nd
Justsomeclimber 1 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
Andrew Sloan 5 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S Definite E2.
with John Brannock
Definite E2.
with John Brannock
Brannock 5 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
Hidden 27 Jun, 2018 Lead
leaht1 27 Jun, 2018 2nd dog So good!
So good!
Ian Carr 20 Jun, 2018 Lead good and clean
with Sam
good and clean
with Sam
Hidden 13 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
TomatoPro 7 Jun, 2018 Lead β This was fun, no dramas, defs low E2 if it is but didn't feel any harder than Central Route - I managed to avoid chimneying much to my own disappointment. won't claim the onsight as edwin and i checked out the photograph from the guidebook beforehand ;)
This was fun, no dramas, defs low E2 if it is but didn't feel any harder than Central Route - I managed to avoid chimneying much to my own disappointment. won't claim the onsight as edwin and i checked out the photograph from the guidebook beforehand ;)
ChrisClark1 7 Jun, 2018 TR dog
cindylmy 7 Jun, 2018 2nd β Amazing climb, nothing too hard or tricky anywhere. Remember to look out for foot holds on the left side of chimney!
Amazing climb, nothing too hard or tricky anywhere. Remember to look out for foot holds on the left side of chimney!
n3p 6 Jun, 2018 TR dog Found the beginning quite challenging, had to use the looped rope stuck in the rock. Climbed part of the chimney backwards. Had around 20 minutes of rest in all. Great climb!
with Sheridon
Found the beginning quite challenging, had to use the looped rope stuck in the rock. Climbed part of the chimney backwards. Had around 20 minutes of rest in all. Great climb!
with Sheridon
BTphonehome 22 May, 2018 Lead β Previously followed. Great route. Awesome seconding in the dark by kasha!
Previously followed. Great route. Awesome seconding in the dark by kasha!
fuzzysheep01 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Violinist 19 May, 2018 2nd O/S
benrhyd 15 May, 2018 2nd
with Joe Barlow, daniel lynch
with Joe Barlow, daniel lynch
Leo Woodhead 11 May, 2018 Lead rpt A classic - not sure why it only gets 1 star - worth 3 in my opinion!
A classic - not sure why it only gets 1 star - worth 3 in my opinion!
DavidEvans 3 May, 2018 2nd O/S
Adam Ellwood 3 May, 2018 Lead rpt Under rated. Great route
Under rated. Great route
Alice Thompson 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with miles01
with miles01
Hidden 9 Jul, 2017 2nd
Martin Haworth 9 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Felt tough for E1, really good route though.
Felt tough for E1, really good route though.
Rob Kinsey 5 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Gwyn
with Gwyn
Brannock 1 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S More like e2
More like e2
Hidden 14 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Nafclimbsrocks 28 May, 2017 TR rpt
Elliot King LC&CC 25 May, 2017 Lead rpt Had a rest this time after clean onsite first time around, my excuse is I was quite tired has as I've done a lots of routes this day!
with Adam
Had a rest this time after clean onsite first time around, my excuse is I was quite tired has as I've done a lots of routes this day!
with Adam
NeilGriffiths 25 May, 2017 Lead
with John Sealy, Adrian Pedley
with John Sealy, Adrian Pedley
John sealey 25 May, 2017 2nd
with Neil Griffith
with Neil Griffith
Nafclimbsrocks 18 May, 2017 TR O/S
Lenny 10 May, 2017 2nd O/S
with Tom
with Tom
Tommy_shaw 10 May, 2017 Lead O/S
NickJH 7 May, 2017 TR rpt Shunt - v.dry
Shunt - v.dry
Mike W 1 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 1 May, 2017 Lead β Clipped Mike's gear.
with Mike W
Clipped Mike's gear.
with Mike W
Graeme Hammond 25 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Great climbing E1 max (not sure how it is E2 in latest BMC and Rockfax guides), have done many harder HVSs. Climbed very cautiously expecting it to get really hard/bolder but you can have excellent overhead gear on large parts of the route. Really enjoyed though, and if it is in a decent (not to green) condition this is easily worth 2*s
Great climbing E1 max (not sure how it is E2 in latest BMC and Rockfax guides), have done many harder HVSs. Climbed very cautiously expecting it to get really hard/bolder but you can have excellent overhead gear on large parts of the route. Really enjoyed though, and if it is in a decent (not to green) condition this is easily worth 2*s
phil64 1 Oct, 2016 Lead rpt a bit damp but a good fight
with Jim mitchell
a bit damp but a good fight
with Jim mitchell
steveleahy 24 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Matt Foot
with Matt Foot
DavidR 18 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt
Leo Woodhead 3 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt
atom 8 May, 2016 TR O/S Really enjoyed this, gear looks good all the way, would love to lead this one day
with Becks87
Really enjoyed this, gear looks good all the way, would love to lead this one day
with Becks87
Becks87 8 May, 2016 TR dog Had to rest on the rope the first time after going wrong just below the chimney. Did it clean second time. Pretty dirty, but fun climb.
with Laura Zambianchi, atom
Had to rest on the rope the first time after going wrong just below the chimney. Did it clean second time. Pretty dirty, but fun climb.
with Laura Zambianchi, atom
john_mx 22 Apr, 2016 2nd
JendeHoxar 22 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt
with john_mx
with john_mx
tessa teapot ??, 2016 Lead
AndyPratt88 28 Sep, 2015 2nd RP
JimHolmes69 28 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S E2
E2
Jacob Bloodworth 20 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
NickJH 13 Sep, 2015 2nd rpt
with LiamG
with LiamG
Andy Peak 1 6 Sep, 2015 Lead Hvs at most! My arse
with Andrew Deckon
Hvs at most! My arse
with Andrew Deckon
The Grist 6 Sep, 2015 2nd
mitseb 5 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
Dan Mckinlay ?Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 17 Aug, 2015 Lead Neil kindly went up to place 1st couple of runners. Lots of gear (small cams etc.), decent rests, so hard E1 seems right, but I nearly fell off near top.
with neilh
Neil kindly went up to place 1st couple of runners. Lots of gear (small cams etc.), decent rests, so hard E1 seems right, but I nearly fell off near top.
with neilh
JendeHoxar 6 Aug, 2015 2nd dog
Hidden 6 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Derek Furze 30 Jul, 2015 2nd Cold, damp and dirty, but great climbing somehow! Definitely E2!
with Duncan Parker
Cold, damp and dirty, but great climbing somehow! Definitely E2!
with Duncan Parker
redshapedfriday 18 Jul, 2015 2nd dog
with GPN
with GPN
GPN 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Very good and definitely E2.
Very good and definitely E2.
John Jefferies 24 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Alex B
with Alex B
drolex 24 Jun, 2015 2nd
with JohnJ
with JohnJ
TraverseKing 21 Jun, 2015 -
TraverseKing 21 Jun, 2015 -
TraverseKing 16 Jun, 2015 -
TraverseKing 16 Jun, 2015 -
TraverseKing 16 Jun, 2015 -
j.buckley87 4 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Great route and very enjoyable, requires more thinking than central route and probably easier to fall off, so would say it should be E2
Great route and very enjoyable, requires more thinking than central route and probably easier to fall off, so would say it should be E2
TraverseKing 23 Apr, 2015 -
TraverseKing 23 Apr, 2015 -
Leo Woodhead 15 Feb, 2015 Lead rpt Repeat ascent. Wet conditions, slimy and lots of fun!
with Joe Hook
Repeat ascent. Wet conditions, slimy and lots of fun!
with Joe Hook
Daz75 ??, 2015 -
ben1987 30 Sep, 2014 2nd
BTphonehome 28 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with tmawer
with tmawer
tmawer 28 Sep, 2014 Lead rpt About 38 years since I last led this....still good!
About 38 years since I last led this....still good!
DavidR 27 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 7 Sep, 2014 Lead rpt
with Andy Wilson
with Andy Wilson
Andrew Wilson 7 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
with Matt Nuttall
Bloke on a Rope 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S This felt about right for a mid grade E2 for me.
This felt about right for a mid grade E2 for me.
Climbster 26 Jul, 2014 2nd RP 2nd go, after dropping the starting sequence
2nd go, after dropping the starting sequence
Leo Woodhead 9 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S What a route. If it was clean it'd get 3 stars in my book. Not sure why it says E1 on here, definitely E2 in my opinion. Harder than other E1's in Wilton and there are a few tricky moves once you get into the chimney. With a little more traffic it'd be a classic!
with Ian W
What a route. If it was clean it'd get 3 stars in my book. Not sure why it says E1 on here, definitely E2 in my opinion. Harder than other E1's in Wilton and there are a few tricky moves once you get into the chimney. With a little more traffic it'd be a classic!
with Ian W
The Grist 26 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Alan Barnes
with Alan Barnes
Robb Bert 25 Jun, 2014 -
Stig 16 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Definitive E2 5b. Why would anyone think otherwise? Would be a bit easier if ever clean. Very good though.
with Greg
Definitive E2 5b. Why would anyone think otherwise? Would be a bit easier if ever clean. Very good though.
with Greg
Hidden ??, 2014 AltLd
masa-alpin 1 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S Good moves - I liked it!
with Max C
Good moves - I liked it!
with Max C
Elliot King LC&CC 1 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Tough start fell off on bomber nut need To pay attention to placing better gear okay not wasting time placing crap tough chimney first E2 5b clean but struggle!! Learn to climb with more style!!
with pep
Tough start fell off on bomber nut need To pay attention to placing better gear okay not wasting time placing crap tough chimney first E2 5b clean but struggle!! Learn to climb with more style!!
with pep
Diggler 14 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Easy E2 but bloody awkward.
with Calder
Easy E2 but bloody awkward.
with Calder
Calder 10 Jul, 2013 2nd
with Diggler
with Diggler
akhughes 25 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Elliot France
with Elliot France
bwestwood 10 Jun, 2013 2nd
pie_eater_pete 10 Jun, 2013 Lead β
with bwestwood
with bwestwood
Hidden 1 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
nepsoi999 22 May, 2012 Lead O/S Interesting great route
with pete
Interesting great route
with pete
stumbler555 16 May, 2012 Lead O/S With Pete. Savage chimney, almost blew my ring out on this one. fantastic fun. if it wasn't so dirty it would easy be three stars. E2.
With Pete. Savage chimney, almost blew my ring out on this one. fantastic fun. if it wasn't so dirty it would easy be three stars. E2.
Hidden 1 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
Jay C 1 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Clay C
with Clay C
Adam Lincoln 27 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
lancashirelass 27 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
with kjbix
with kjbix
kjbix 27 Jul, 2011 Lead
Tony Holdsworth 14 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
with Peter Harris
with Peter Harris
JasRY 2 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Paul Coxon
with Paul Coxon
PeteH 1 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Great route. Bit minging in places, unfortunately, but the necessary holds were clean, plenty of bomber gear and sustained interest without being too tough.
with Jude Harvie, pdufus
Great route. Bit minging in places, unfortunately, but the necessary holds were clean, plenty of bomber gear and sustained interest without being too tough.
with Jude Harvie, pdufus
khawk 30 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt
with datoon
with datoon
Hidden 9 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
Rich Guest 25 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Grubby route but enjoyable in a kind of sick adventurous way. I took a while sussing out the chimney moves, which went fairly steady in the end
Grubby route but enjoyable in a kind of sick adventurous way. I took a while sussing out the chimney moves, which went fairly steady in the end
Hidden 25 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jul, 2010 2nd rpt
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
clive-greenwood 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Bob 17 Apr, 2010 2nd rpt
with M. Bullough & S. Brock
with M. Bullough & S. Brock
Hidden ??, 2010 2nd O/S
stevebarratt ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with Gareth Watkins
with Gareth Watkins
dave mann ??, 2010 -
efrance24234 ??, 2010 -
dannyboy83 25 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with Alice
with Alice
Dave Rumney 5 Jul, 2009 2nd
with Sean Roberts
with Sean Roberts
wahniel 29 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S This used to get E2!!! It was then my finest onsight and I gave it 2,5 stars, mainly because I got up it. It is a bit of a sandy grovel really. Shame about the downgrade - it's true though I guess.
with Hugh Squire
This used to get E2!!! It was then my finest onsight and I gave it 2,5 stars, mainly because I got up it. It is a bit of a sandy grovel really. Shame about the downgrade - it's true though I guess.
with Hugh Squire
Hidden 28 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
John Southworth 21 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Jun, 2009 2nd
Hidden 9 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 30 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ru
with Ru
Fred Sergeant 2 May, 2009 2nd dog
with Jim Holmes
with Jim Holmes
Hidden 23 Apr, 2009 Lead
Seymore Butt ??, 2009 Lead
khawk 24 Jul, 2008 Lead
with datoon
with datoon
tlmarjot ?Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ben Freeman
with Ben Freeman
Hidden 15 May, 2008 2nd
Tom Phillips 11 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Leofallon 11 May, 2008 2nd
galpinos 27 Aug, 2007 2nd dog 1 rest
with Nick V
1 rest
with Nick V
Tom Phillips 3 Apr, 2007 2nd
with Jarin
with Jarin
Jarin 3 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Greylag ??, 2007 2nd
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Iggy_B ?Jul, 2005 Lead O/S This is E2.
with David Bisset
This is E2.
with David Bisset
r0b 12 Jun, 2004 2nd
with Mark Humphries
with Mark Humphries
Mark A Humphries 12 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S This is E2
with Andy
This is E2
with Andy
Hidden 25 May, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
SR1970 ?Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1997 Lead
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead
mattnuttall 3 Aug, 1990 Lead
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
jlancashire ??, 1990 Lead
Hidden ??, 1989 Lead
Roget ??, 1989 Lead O/S
with chris jones, jim
with chris jones, jim
Enty ??, 1988 -
Derek Ryden ??, 1986 2nd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
with Glynne Andrew
johno072 ??, 1985 Lead
Hidden 10 Aug, 1983 Lead O/S
tmawer 26 Aug, 1977 Lead
with brother, Rick, Andy
with brother, Rick, Andy
Mark Kemball 5 Aug, 1977 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
with Sarah Bridge
Rick51 24 Apr, 1974 2nd
12 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 61
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set